johnceggleston

are you sure, it is a subaru after all. they're supposed to be nothing but headaches.

when searching on line for replacement o2 sensors, (i was just looking at price and availability, i wasn't really going to buy an after market part) i noticed that one, at least one, of the ''generic'' o2 sensors, without a connector, was listed as fitting 1990 - 2011. now, i didn't bother to study the info or even to determine if it was front or rear, but there is a chance ..... so good luck. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?D=oxygen+sensor&sid=1324B68B38C6&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&rid=1324B68B38C6&Ntk=Main&N=1719+11736+4294960294+20&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntt=oxygen+sensor&refine=Price+Range|Less+Than+%2450

on a slightly different note, my '00 lego auto trans has 83k miles and original everything. i plan on doing the timing belt , all idlers and the water pump soon, this fall. question, since the seals are not leaking, is it better to do them or leave them. seems a little silly to replace prefectly good seals, and factory seals may last longer than replacements installed by me. if i do them i'm good for 100k, if i don't, i figure i'm good for ~70k - 80k? and a seal failure probably will give me a warning sign before a disaster. same for the tensioner? (the idler will be new regardless.) do these usually get noisy before they fail or only sometimes? and finally, i know i can swap in an old style tensioner and bracket on a 98. is it smart or dumb to swap one in on a '00.?? thanks, and sorry of the hijack. but at least it is all belt related.

there is one for sale on the roanoke, va craigslist for ~$600, if you are interested.

if it were a 97 , not an 02, the answer would be yes, the same . (except maybe for the connector.) but 02....????? i would pull the bad one and look at it. there is a pretty good chance that the connector is different. but there is a small chance the part number on the o2 sensor itself is the same. that's what they did going from 95 to 97. as a matter of fact, the front and rear have different part numbers in 97 but the sensor is the same, just the connector is different.

how long will it take?

losing that much oil i would bet on a cam seal, maybe the oil pump. but the bottom of the engine should be very wet.

has it ever run on the new timing belt? did you replace the timing belt? when it quit running, was it on the old belt? spark, fuel, and compression, which ones do you have?

no worries. all that does is to direct air from ''near'' the grill to the the air intake under the fender. so instead of ''grill air it will draw engine compartment air. if you can find a replacement i would get it and re-install it, but the car will run just fine without.

which piece?

it all depends on the year. 95 - 99 none of the legos or forester came with LSD. staring in 00 the outback had an optional lsd and by 03 it was standard in the outback and i think the GT. i don't know about the foresters. but even if you do not have one , you can swap one in. you can search for a legacy ''carrier'' 2003 at www.car-part.com. if your forester is 98 - 99, choose outback locking AT and it will give a selection. (put in your zip first and sort your search by distance.) the outbacks and the foresters generally have the same final drive ratios but be sure to double check. that mod is only dangerous if you leave it engaged while driving on pavement. it can cause excessive wear on the drive train.

year, model , engine, trans, miles, ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/

i use a 7/8 inch box end wrench to prevent ''rounding off'' the hex. but i undo the wire connector first and thread it thru the box end . works great.

or google ''my subaru.com'' and register there. once they confirm your ownership they will list all recalls and if any are open.

if you are still driving it, leave the gas cap loose. it will reduce the pressure in the tank and decrease the ''forcing'' of the gas out of the leak. are you sure it is the tank that is leaking and not the filler neck? did you look at http://www.car-part.com ?

you want to use the ''alignment marks''. NOT the ''piston position marks''.

interesting idea. and it would help diagnose what is wrong, the TCU or the duty c , which is new. BUT, you seem to forget where you are working, under the dash. replacing the TCU is a pain, but doable and it does not take long. but wiring in a switch wire may also be a pain, but doable. there may be an easier location to cut and splice the wire if you knew its routing, but it probably goes thru the fire wall pretty quickly. you could always cut and splice at the trans connector, pin #11?, under the hood. you'd just have to run the wire back inside for the switch. just a thought.

same as all the others. what ever that is.

no, no re-wiring required. i'm willing to bet on this as well. nothing is going to get the car to run right until this '' whatever'' is undone. the wire colors under the electrical tape should be easy to figure out. but the connections should be soldered after you get them sorted out.

if you are driving a 97 outback you already have the outback struts and tires. unless some one ''lowered'' your car. but depending on their age, your springs could be old and saggy, especially in the rear.

you need to get ''severe-car-cat'' you can order it on line or might find it at your local animal shelter. it may not actually get rid of your problem but it will DRAMATICALLY cut down on the amount of mouse droppings. you have to order the litter box separately. i also suggest parking the car in a different place.

'00 legacy wagon, auto trans w/ 81k miles i have only had the car about 1000 miles and all i have done to it is replace an axle and a trans drain and fill. both were exactly like my 97 GT. today the digital read out on the odo, clock stopped working and the speedo is dead. this has to be a loose connection or a fuse? any ideas? i can see only 2 screws on the instrument cluster trim, any tips for removing it if i have to go that far. i sure don't want to force it and break anything in my new ride. i guess fuses first.

saw this and know NOTHING about them. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/pts/2574277707.html

when working properly, the duty c receives voltage in a cycle, on, off, on, off. it is not 4 volts most of the time and 12 volts when you need more rwd. when the voltage hits the duty c it activates and directs fluid pressure to the clutch plates. when there is no voltage it is in-active and no pressure goes to the clutch plates, no fluid pressure means no rear wheel drive, only fwd. the rate of the on/off cycle determines how much pressure and therefore how much rear wheel drive. if you get the flashing AT Temp light the TCU thinks the duty c is bad. could be the duty c, but probably not in your case, or the wiring or the TCU. since yours is intermittent and your duty c is new i would suspect wiring / connectors or the computer. if the duty c fails, or the voltage does not get to it, you cannot make it go into FWD. the duty c has to be good and getting voltage all the time to do that. I THINK, the power wire to the duty c (1995) is pin 3 on connector b55. but i don't know off hand if b55 is the 16 pin connector or the 20 pin connector. EDIT: it is pin 3 on the 20 pin connector. if you have a TCU swap that in. if not, measure the voltage on pin 3 when the TB is occurring. does it have voltage? this might tell you if the solenoid is bad or the tcu. if you cut the wire on pin 3 , on the 20 pin connector you will have 4wd ''locked'' and TB. generally this will cause your AT Temp light to flash the next time you start your car. if you put a 15 ohm, (iirc) resistor on it the light will not flash for a bad duty c. (i think, i haven't tried it yet.) i had /have an intermittent duty c failure on my 95 legacy. i put the fuse in and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. iirc, it tends to fail when hot. there is a good thread that addresses the TB issue due to a bad, scorched, burnt, ''something'' on the TCU circuit board. i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and just drive it in FWD. but i kept the fuse in just to see. some times FWD lights up and sometimes the AT Temp light flashes, but either way i never have TB. i also never have awd.

does the sohc timing belt that fits the 99 ej22 also fit the sohc ej25 00 - 04?