johnceggleston

this was my question. if it is an ej22 it is non-interference. if it is the ej25 it is interference. only the manual trans outback had the ej22 engine in 96.

if both are outbacks, and both are ej25, it will swap with no issues and nothing else needed. if one is a legacy L, or LS, or brighton, you will need the rear diff. if one is an H6 i would not do the swap. i would wait and find another trans.

the only ej22 that will swap is the 99 - 00. and then it has to be adapted to work. the cam and crank sprockets , plus the intake manifold must be swapped. and you may have to do the EGR ''work around.''

use something to remove the pint from the cam sprocket. NOT coarse or heavy sand paper. the hash mark is there you just don't know what to look for. the cam has marks are on the front edge of the sprocket. the crank hash mark is on one of the rear tabs, or reluctors of the sprocket. always use the hash marks. NEVER the ARROWS. the paint is used by the inspectors at the factory so every one knows the items have been inspected.

i do not remember what years this applies to. i guess we could all go out and test our own cars and get an idea.

this is ia ECU ''fail safe'' situation. when there is no cam signal, or whatever, the ECU uses the crank signal to operate both the fuel and the spark. i found this to be very very smart. and i only know this because i read it here or on another forum. i would check the wiring. if it does not run with the sensor, but runs with out the NEW sensor, then there is a problem with the wiring. or maybe the ECU. but would check the wiring first. did tis happen suddenly? develop over time? did it start to run poorly and then quit, or just would not run one day? ECUs do not fail often. so check the wiring, look for a break, or a worn spot, or mouse damage. or bad pins in the connectors, at the sensor and at the rear of the engine. i do not know which makes more sense, a complete break, or a wire grounded out.

at a glance, NO. the TZ1A3.... id# does not match the TZ102... which is in your car. having said that, i am not 100% sure. i'm not sure your car has the TZ102..... trans. you would have to tell me. i'm not sure what car uses the TZ1A3... trans. i would have to look it up at http://opposedforces.com/parts do you know what year forester the trans came out of.

in the mid 90s, california ''required'' a 100k belt. so starting in 96 all of the US ej25d engines have a 105k interval. there was also a 105k belt for the ej22 to meet the cali requirement. (at my advance auto, it is cheaper and a special order.) the rest of the country was still 60k on the ej22 90 - 98. but get this, in the rest of the world, the interval for the ej25 (96 - 04) and ej22 (90 - 00) is 100k Km, or 60k miles. go figure. i doubt the idlers or the belts are any different, USDM vs. JDM, any one know.? i assume the interval for newer ej25 is the same, but i do not know.

what he said. but the block would work with the 02 heads and intake.

it may be easier to find outback struts. but the problem is, by now, they are all really old. so you would have to be really lucky to find a parts car with new-ish struts. i would avoid the 98 - 02 forester struts. i hear they can cause ''saggy butt'' syndrome. besides the 96 - 99 outback are taller, slightly. the later foresters might be the best choice. and you can buy new for $300 or so. the 95 lego and the 96 - 99 outbacks use the same springs. foresters rear springs are different.

chances of it being a bad rear diff is really, really, low, unless it ran out of gear oil. have someone drive while you sit in the back listen to see which side has a louder noise. that is the bad wheel bearing.

so the car had an ej22 engine and ran with no codes. you replaced the block and head gaskets and now you have an EGR code. so the intake does not have EGR on it, you did not have to disconnect the EGR pipe from the head when you pulled the intake. i would really like to know (and GG would too,) how there was no EGR code before you replaced the block. but whatever. check the vac lines going the the passenger strut tower. there are a couple of small devices over there and those vac lines are easy to miss on the intake end. and they will throw a code, EGR i think, but not sure. any way maybe that is the problem, not the lack of EGR on the driver side. or something else like that .

how long has this engine been in the car? and what engine was in the car before this? when did the code first appear, whit which engine? ps: all ej25 dohc engines 96 - 99 have EGR.

that is an EGR car. with the exception of the few GG has found / seen, ALL ej22 cars 95 - 98 with the auto trans are EGR. if you swap in an EGR intake manifold, from an ej22 car 95 - 97, with EGR, usually an auto trans car, and then do the EGR ''work around'' your code will go away. Using a NON-EGR engine in Subaru with EGR - Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM - Ultimate Subaru Message Board and since you are the 4th owner, and there have been 4 engines in this car, there is no way you can be sure it has never had EGR. it was EGR from the factory. now about the trans, the original trans had a 4.11 final drive ratio. the current trans has a 4.44 final drive ratio. i sure hope the rear diff matches the trans. this car has been around the block a time or two. you can ''fix'' the EGR as i mentioned, but unless the code will keep you from passsing an inspection, or keep you from legally driving it , i would just live with it .

this sounds like a wiring problem. is the trans oil pan dented? that will short out wires inside the pan and cause trouble. check the large connector at the rear of the engine, passenger side. check the pins, look for wire damage, maybe rodent, mouse damage.

no additives are recommended. just new clean ATF. in the 90s it was dex 3, i assume for 00 - 04 it would be something similar, or slightly newer / better. it does not need to be high $$ specialty stuff. check the owner's manual. the trans does have an external filter, but there is NO schedule for replacing it. and they can be difficult to remove. also it is NOT the same as an engine oil filter. if you decide to replace it, make sure you have every thing you need before you start. because the old one may tear up during removal,and then you are stuck, can't drive. i would not replace it unless there was a really good reason. just being old is not a good reason in my opinion. good luck.

what code number did you get?

if you are asking about an alternator, any alt, 90 - 94 will work off of any leagcy, impreza, ej22, or ej18. others years will probably work , but htis should give you plenty to choose from.

year? model? engine? trans? miles? color? other info? read the ID tag on the driver side strut tower under the hood, and give us the trans id number.

it is hard to tell from the pics exactly where the hash mark is. is it in the white or in the pink? the marks on the belt are a guide to help with install. but the true test is ... all 3 sprockets have the hash marks straight up at the same time. all 3 hash marks at 12 oclock. by the way, one pic shows the belt not on all of the teeth of the sprocket, driver side cam.

are they cross threaded? if no just get some washers. if yes, oops?

you arr welcome for the help, and welcome to the party, enjoy.

this is my guess. especially since you have replaced almost every thing else in that area.

what fairtax said, there is a large hose that runs from the rear passenger side of the intake manifold to the very BOTTOM of the air plenum pipe . the air plenum pipe runs from air filter box to the large ''box'' behind the throttle body. if this is not connected the car will start and then die. you can keep it running if you goose the gas pedal. check ALL the hoses and vac lines. a vac leak can cause running issues. there is a possibility that the timing jumped, and bent valves? but look for a vac leak first.

obviously the FSM procedure is the best and most correct way to replace the fluid. but another popular one is to disconnect the return line at the pump, on the late 90s cars it is the one with the rubber hose . the feed line is all metal. disconnect the return line and then turn the pump by hand. it should be pretty easy to turn with out the belt on it. as you turn the pump the old fluid will pump out. if you keep the reservoir full of new fluid, the pump will flush out the old. be sure to catch the old fluid in something.