johnceggleston

which code is #24? i'd try the used TCU first. much easier. if the duty c is bad, (probably not since it is new) or a wire / connection is bad, a switch shouldn't make much difference. you can switch it but if the signal doesn't get to the duty c ..... plus, if you ''dis-connect'' power to the duty c you get ''locked'' 4wd, and TB. power it all the time , put the fuse in, you get FWD. how does a switch help if the duty c is not operating correctly, ie: not getting the proper amount of power at the proper time?

air filter box not securely closed.

is this what you want? post #46 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119808&highlight=screwdriver+google&page=5 tagline: flexplate screwdriver

maybe it's money?? or jewelry??

the air flow direction is controlled electronically by the HVAC controller. push a button, and a motor?? opens or closes the flow director. the heat control lever on the other hand is a direct cable connection to the ''door'' that directs the air over the heater core. usually the problem with no air/ heat from certain vents is in the push button electric connections. i had no luck cleaning it / them, but i have heard of at least one member who was successful with cleaning . i just replaced my controller when wd40 and windex didn't work. maybe i should have used electrical connection cleaner. good luck.

if this is a rush job, get it done rather than get it right, you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft (leave in the front section of drive shaft ). this will make it FWD. but fluid change may cure it.

any info on the other cylinders? i would check the timing before i spent 1100.

it sounds like all you have really lost is time. keep us posted.

the tensioner change around that time. but if you can look at yours, on your car, you will know which you need. this kit shows the ''new style'' tensioner. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1997-1998-SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/370536155213?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item5645ad084d this is the old: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genuine-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-/290600510604?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Year%3A1995&hash=item43a923e48c

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0115

well, when, if, the code comes back, get the number. until then enjoy your new ride and welcome to the board. if you are crawling around under the car, check the o2 sensor wire connection, on the driver side near the rear of the trans. they can difficult to undo , but an unclick, re-click may help, depending on the code. there is one rear o2 code that doesn't come up very often, it's rare, but when it does, there is usually snow, sleet, and salt on the roads. the connection gets dirty and corrodes.

no, the one wire sensor is for the instrument panel gauge, ghe two wire sensor is for the actual engine temp going to the ECU. there is a chance your t-stat has been modified . i would check it.

unplug the green connectors under the dash. they are used for diagnosing only .

in part it depends on the car it is going into. the 99 ej22 phase 2 heads and intake will not match a 95 - 98 car. they will match a 99 (00 - 04?) car . the 99 ej22 was an odd duck. it was the 99 car, but the 00 engine. the 99+ ej22 phase 2 heads will swap intakes with the 00+ ej25 heads. that is not true of the rest of the ej22s in the 90s.

new trans time. get in touch with mdjdc if for no other reason than to learn where to look for a trans locally. send him an email or private message with your phone number. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=2153 and if you need it , i have one that should fit. i'm in roanoke. but i would think there is one in richmond.

i wouldn't go across the country at high speed, but a week in town i have done myself.

the air only crosses the heater core when when you move the lever to heat. the more you move the lever, the more air gets heated. when in the cold position, the air bypasses the core.

i think new knuckles come plain, no bearing , not hub. used knuckle will come complete with bearing. and will have who knows how many more miles left. but they are cheap, $35. i'd have a used one sitting around ready to go. put the new bearing in it if the one on the car is bad. but if it is not making noise it can't be too bad, can it??

you have to remove the rotor. the tricky part is getting out from behind the hub once it is loose. but you can do it. be sure not to damage the tone ring for the abs.

what are you looking for and what price range?

coolant temp sensor? maf?

rotate front to rear and see. if it changes, rotate one back. or just move one to start with. try to narrow it down.

the air bag connector has a lock on it. it must click or you get a light.

tie rod ends , inner or outter?

since the speedo is off 4 mph at every speed, the needle is off. you can fix it but it is a pain. you have to remove the instrument cluster and then re-install it with out the clear plastic cover. gently grab the needle at the splindle and pull it off. be careful, they break very easily. now using your GPS, drive 60 mph. while driving 60 mph re-install the needle point to 60 mph. test drive to be sure. and then go home and put it all back together like it should be. (for safety sake it is probably a good idea to have some one else drive the car while you re-install the needle. ) i tried to re-set the needle with the speedo out of the car, no good. it moves as soon as the car powers up. i tried to re-set the speedo with the car on and the speedo in place, no good. it was impossible to get it to point to zero. you have to be driving a constant speed and then set the needle to that speed. and you have to do it without breaking the needle. or buy a replacement cluster. it may be more accurate. re-setting the odo is easy.