johnceggleston

picked up a 2000 lego L wagon today with 80k miles. got it cheap because it ''needs a trans rebuild, $1800''. i did a drain and fill with 1 qt of Trans-x, ~3 qts of dex 3. i drove it about 2 miles and it improved to a 1/2 second delay. then i drove it 50 miles home and by the time i got there it was working fine. it sits lower than my outback and i was wondering if the outback struts 00 - 04 will bolt on like they do in the 96 - 99 year range? i assume they are taller, like the outback struts of the 90s. i'm planing on swapping in a set of 97 GT wheels and tires right a way. the tires on the car make a lot of noise. stock steel wheels with what appears to be pretty cheap, fusion? tires. they have good tread, but they are loud. probably haven't ever been rotated. and of course the timing belt is 80k miles and 132 months old. it's time to change everything. i'll need a cargo cover and tray / liner eventually. i'm hoping it will clean up enough so my wife will enjoy driving it . i think it is big enough to carry all the gear she needs for her ''in your home clothing sales''. any suggestions would be appreciated.

picked up a 2000 lego L wagon today with 80k miles. got it cheap because it ''needs a trans rebuild, $1800''. the trans would not engage at all or at least not before i started shifting the selector around looking for a gear to grab. eventually it would grab, usually in 3. i did a drain and fill with 1 qt of Trans-x, ~3 qts of dex 3. i drove it about 2 miles and it improved to a 1/2 second delay. then i drove it 50 miles home and by the time i got there it was working fine. the only issue in regards to the trans, it seems to make a slight ''clunk'' when put in gear. i assume this is a result of the previous owner reving it trying to get to engage and then it ''grabbing'' suddenly. anyone else have this? i still need to do more drain and fills to replace the old fluid. it was yellow, not red. but i guess that could just be the brand. so another Trans-x success story.

when you get the engine installed, i would fill the cooling system with plain water to flush out any other gunk that may be hiding in there. then after you find that all is good, you can drain and fill with 50/50 coolant.

i would amend this to read 90 - 95 will fit. every 96 i've seen has a single port exhaust. 96 - 98 will require a different exhaust y-pipe. and the 95 - 96 engines from cars with auto trans will have an EGR on the intake and driver side head. not a big deal, you just do not connect to it since you have no connectors in your car.

i don't exactly understand the question, but if you are asking will the lego trans bolt into and mate with the impreza engine the answer is absolutely. the bell housings and the torque converters for ej22s and ej18s 90 - 98 are all the same. so are the wiring connectors. you don't see anything different until you get to the ej25s or 1999. your trans guy wasn't a subaru guy was he?

that's it. all i can say is try again. try holding it for 30 or 60 seconds.

and the button you were pushing and holding is a part of the wiring harness for the keyless entry ''black box'' under the dash??

is the key in the ON position? not just the the first click where the radio comes on but the next click where the AC / heater fan will blow and the headlights are on and all of the dash lights are on. that was my mistake on my first try. did you replace the car battery or the fob battery? does the fob ''light'' blink when you press the button? if it has a light. is the battery in the right way?

since you are confident it was a bad product, how about sharing the name so we can avoid that seller. was it ''dewy cheetum and how''?

not long i don't believe. the belt would die. i would refill and burp. replace the cap. and start saving money. no gunk in the overflow bottle? have you had any recent work done to the car???

seems like you have all this info but just in case. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0443

my point is simply this: if the steering rack was designed with ''power'' as an integral part of the system, it may not be geared well for non-''power'' driving. but i think the likelihood of that is much less on a mid 80s car. but removing the belt and test driving will answer a lot of questions.

nipper picked one up last year, a 92 i think. i would be driving one around town if i could find one in decent shape and didn't have 3 other cars on my to do list. i hear the auto trans is crap, unless it was well maintained. and i hear they don't really have the long life we are used to in other subarus, but i don't really know. but other than that what's not to like. i don't think i would drive it on the hi-way a lot and compete with 18 wheelers and the like. this of course lessens it's usefulness, but doubling? my mileage around town would be good enough. save energy and hopefully save money. but if it was a third car the cost of owning may off set the savings. i'm also interested in those gas powered ''golf carts'' that can go on roads up to 35 mph. for me, driving to work - 2 miles, getting groceries - 2 miles, dropping the kid a school - 3 miles and visiting friends, < 1 mile, it's a no-brainer. but the justy is probably cheaper to buy.

if you can ID the bearing you can probably pick one up for $6 - $8. but the trick is figuring out which one it is. my best advice, short of swapping in another used ALT is to remove the bearing and take it to a parts store and match it. the r&r of the bearing is the same labor as trying to re-grease it, i would think.

just so i under stand, you have a brat with an ej18 swapped in and you want info on removing the power steering pump. i repeat my earlier post, have you test driven the car without the power steering working???

this is just a thought: cars with power steering when it was the onlt option, are not designed to be driven without it. without the ''power'' they are really hard to drive. the ''gearing is designed for ''power''. cars that were designed with ''power as an option can be driven without the power. what ever the gearing is , it is drivable. case in point, my 90 nissan pick up w/ 2.4L, 4 cyl. engine and 5 speed 2wd trans. it came without power steering. i don't know if ''power'' was / is an option. but i'm pretty sure the 6 cyl 4wd truck did have it, at least as an option, but probably standard. my nissan is very drivable, but the last time i was driving a car when the ''power'' belt failed it was a nightmare. i felt lucky to get to the side of the road safely. i did make it home but it was not pretty. just a thought.

one comes on when the AC is turned on. try that.

you might consider leaving the rad cap or vent plug loose to reduce the pressure on the system and hopefully help the barrs plug the leak. this may cause the water to boil out and adding water daily, if not more often, may be required. good luck getting home.

have you test driven your car with out the ''power'' steering? if not you may change your mind. if you remove the belt you can test drive it around the block. you will also lose the ALT. but for a short test drive you should be ok if your battery is ok.

sounds like a match. less then 3 hrs. to louisville.

he's in anderson, indiana. where ever that is?

well it turns out that i have been reading too many online forums and believing them. it appears that the stock plug for the ej25d is not a $2.00 plug but a $10.00 plug. according to the site below, the stock plug is a ''premium'' class plug. and the $2 plug is a regular class plug. there are also several in between. http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?aaia=1305548

from the 98 owners manual. Spark plugs 2.2 Liter models RC10YC4 (Champion) [Alternate] BKR6E-11 (NGK), K20PR-U11 (NIPPON DENSO) 2.5 Liter models PFR5B-11 (NGK) Spark plug gap 0.039 to 0.043 in. (1.0 to 1.1 mm)

if so, my mistake. i just don't remember hearing them referred to that way.

nipper, please edit one of these post so there is less confusion and more correct info. thanks