johnceggleston

i don't think the NGK V coppers are stock spec for this car. if you are going to change out the ones in your car, put in the stock spec NGK plugs. they only cost about $2 each and they work great. the better ones you are running may be fine, but they are not stock. and if they are causing a problem the stock plugs will cure it. keep it simple.

a good place to look for parts: http://www.car-part.com a pick-n-pull or someone local on craigslist or the like may be a better price, but at car-part you can search the whole country. put in your zip and sort by distance.

a small allen wrench works well.

probably the toothed idler failed. it probably wasn't replaced last time, or the time before that, or the time........

regardless, the ''belt'' is now at 71k on a 60k interval. past due. although i would have thought that most components would last longer then 70k. but maybe not longer than 130k.

any idea which fuse controls the fuel pump??

i could not loosen the lock nuts on my 97 OBW . i tried PBlaster and all the wrenches in my box. so i called and ask a local service shop how much for replacing both steering bellows, which was my goal. parts, $30 a side, labor , $30 a side. so i had them do it. i think the pb blaster i had been spraying on it helped. but i really think having the car on a lift and being able to put 36 inches of leverage on it was the big thing. have 6 feet of working room in stead of 16inches, makes a big difference.

item #1 in the drawing. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_3/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/

absolutely!! ab easy parts cross reference source is http://www.car-part.com. if they return multiple years / models for a part then the part will fit from that year and / or model. if any thing the site is too conservative in what will fit.

isn't this is a MAP sensor? not part of the ECU? so you do not need a computer. 90 - 94 should swap in no problem, i think. but i would check you wire connections and vac lines under the hood first. it could be a bad hose.

i'd be willing to bet they have a record of it in the paper work if they just take the time to look for it. this is a common question. every buyer wants to know the mileage of the engine / trans they are buying.

well that explains the p0400 trouble code. ignore that for now. and move on to the others.

this is either a bad rear o2 sensor or a bad connection / wire. it is a circuit problem. check the wiring at the sensor, clean the cennoector. it that does not help buy a cheap replacement. (cheap is ok for the rear sensor, not the front sensor.) this is probably the sensor, replace it. $56 at autozone. the old one will have cracks in it, i bet. DO NOT over torque it during install. i just fixed this code on my 95 lego, it has egr. my fuel filler neck had a rust hole in it. replaced it and now no p0400. is this even possible?? like the o2 sensor, this is a circuit problem. it could be a bad solenoid or wire or connector. or it could be a side effect of another problem.

off hand i don't think it is a match. the 97 impreza AT , i know, is a 4.11 final drive ratio. but i think the 94 lego AT is a 3.9 ratio. yep, i just double checked. the 94 lego AT is a 3.9 final drive ratio. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 BUT if you have access to the car trans is coming from, you can use the matching, rear diff with the ''new'' trans and all will be good. or you can locate a trans from ANY 2.2L legacy 95 - 98 . all the trans are the same. or any impreza 95 - 98. ( i think the 93 - 94 impreza were also the same.) did you look on http://www.car-part.com ? you will have to search each year separately since the software does not know that the trans are the same. (put in your zip and sort your search by distance, shipping is expensive.)

say it ain't so!! she left. oh crap, now i have to find a new supplier. she's was the only reason i used them. when did she leave? where did she go?? is her new job subie related??

especially if they are not leaking gear oil.

it sound like the thing is wired wrong. some how the wrong feed? was used to power the unit (or the like) and when it activates? it disconnects something?. remove the ''black box'' alarm unit and see what works and what doesn't, if anything. it has a couple of white connectors and if you can reach it should be pretty easy to do .

with 90s auto transmissions it is really easy to tell. if the wiring connector fits, then the trans electrical will work. take a pic of your connector plug and the connector plug on the ''new'' trans. if they match it will work ELECTRICALLY. the final drive ratio still has to match. the trans is not obd related, to the best of my knowledge.

note to self: ALWAYS ask ''what other work was done when this started?" i keep forgetting this part. i think the radio is a winner. fingers crossed.

if the final drive ratio is the same it should work. but i don't know the ratios off hand. there may be a difference in the speedo cables, the 93 has a cable driven speedo, i'm not sure about the 97. but either way i here it is an easy fix. do some research at http://opposedforces.com/parts to find the ring and pinion / final drive ratios.

auto or manual or both????????

power steering belt squeal. could need a new belt or tightening or maybe a new power steering pump. but these pumps don't fail very often.

are you talking about an ej25 block and ej22 heads, aka the frankenmotor?

according to http://www.cars101.com the 94 has the following: ENGINE: 1.8 L 4 cylinder 16 valve SOHC aluminum alloy boxer engine with distributorless igntion and Multi-port fuel injection. Horsepower: 110 @ 5600 rpm Torque: 110 @ 4400 rpm http://www.cars101.com/impreza_archive93_96.html#1994%20impreza

i would have to double check to be sure, but i don't think the ej22 was available in the impreza until 95. (according to http://www.cars101.com) there is a stamping on the block of every ej engine under the the power steering pump.( passenger side front of the engine )