johnceggleston

it does appear to be a flat-6 specific part. click on the part number for #6 and then click on legacy ''usage''. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/train/propeller_shaft/

this may not help, it may not even be acurate for the cable driven speedo. but the VSS and wire driven speedos (late 90s w/ auto trans at least) output to the ECU with a pulse or a signal that is 1/4 of the speedo input. or so i've read. it may be easier to grab that signal than the one between the speedo and the trans. you would have to find the pinout for your ECU and which pin is the ''speed'' input but the signal would already be electrical.

ej22 it is. happy motoring.

glad you got it working. happy motoring!!

it sounds like you have convinced your self that the coil is out of spec. if that is the case, i would suggest that you buy a used one and try it. you can test it as well. if it helps you are good, if it does not help you have only spent 60$. hopefully the coil is the solution.

if it is not tire related, what is the most likely cause, steering rack related (bushings, inner or outer tie rods) or control arm bushing related? thanks

it is possible that the haynes manual has the values mis-labeled. get a copy of the FSM and find the values there. but i would look else where before i replaced the coil or wasted much time with it. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

are you sure your speedo is cable driven or are you just using that as a ''generic'' term. legacys went to a non-cable speedo in 95. i know the 95 impreza was cable driven, but i thought they changed after that. i'm not to sure why i though that, i guess i just thought speed sensor / wire driven was better.

yes, the phase 2, 99 - 00 ej22, but they will not swap into a 97 - 98 with out a lot of headaches, time and money. so chances are that it was not done. as a matter of fact i have never heard of any one doing it. besides if the plugs are angled up its an ej22.

the timing cover gasket is readily available but i don't bother replacing them. i just put the covers back in place and if the bolts are missing i use zip ties. no problems.

count the ''lobes'' on each side of the engine. one each, two total = ej22, 2 each side , 4 total = ej25. or check the stamping on the block under the power steering pump. or look at the spark plugs, if they are angled up and do NOT go through the the valve covers it is an ej22. if they are horizontal and DO go through the valve covers then it is an ej25.

the last time i replaced them i used 18 inches and it did both hoses. i think i used 8 inches for each. i attached one end of the new hose on the rad and then lined it up with the metal ATF line from the trans and marked it. then i cut it . i then did the same on the other hose. the timing mark on the crank sprocket is located on one of the ''TABS'' on the rear edge of the sprocket. it is a straight hash mark. disregard any paint marks. on the cam sprockets, you are looking for ''hash'' marks on the front edge of the pulley. again, disregard any paint marks. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64

i wonder if they make hoses not quite right for any one specific car but close enough to right for several. this would cut down on manufacturing cost and inventory.

yes, they just bolt right on. IIRC, the blocks are the same size and the stroke too. just the bore is larger on the ej22. this means most everything will swap. but i'd have to study the heads to see what might happen regarding the combustion chamber, if you tried to swap them.

di you get both gaskets and the valve body? which subaru calls a ''valve assembly'' and it includes the duty c. for reasons that i do not understand the duty c , from the online dealers, for the 95 lego is about 25 cheaper than the duty c for the later 90s cars. i thought they were all the same part but apparently not, not exactly. at least this is what i remember from the last time i looked in to it several years ago.

the major difference between AWD and FWD gas tanks is that the AWD tanks has 2 side, 2 fuel gauge sending uniots and 2 fuel pick ups. the fuel tan straddles the drive shaft. my guess is that the actual pumps are interchangeable. opposede forces list the fuel pump for the FWD car separately. but the one for the AWD car is part of an assembly and no part number is given. of course http://opposedforces.com/parts does not actually go back to the 90 legacy, so ..... i'd try it.

the 3.9 rear diff does not match your trans front diff, so don't put that in. get your wife or friend to drive the car and you climb in the back to see if you can isolate the noise to one side or the other. if it is a wheel bearing you should be able to hear which side it is coming from. if neither side is making the noise then it may be the drive shaft as mentioned. maybe as a first step to repair and diagnosis, remove the rear section of the drive shaft. (leave the front section in place or the fluid will pour out of the trans.) if the noise goes away you will know the problem. this will also relieve the binding until you can install the duty c. and pulling the drive shaft is may be easier than pulling a rear axle. it certainly will serve better in the long run. my 95 lego has been this way for 40k miles with no ills.

471, 000 at 65 mph is over 7200 hours. that equals over 3.5 years, of 50 weeks a year, 5 days a week, 8 hours a day. what year is it?

i took apart the rears on my most recent project, 98 obw ej22 swap, and the pads were a little tight and rusty. so i lubed the slide pins and put the pads on the bench grinder, wire brush only, on the edges of the steel plate. when i put them back together they seemed a little loose. are loose pads a problem??

the pin outs for a couple of ECUs have been posted, they are in the FSM. and an adapter would be a really smart way to go for me. that way when i screw it up the car still runs. it also means that your car is not ''down'' during the process. you can keep driving it untl you are ready to make the swap. i have no experience with early 90s ECU, and only some limited experience with the ECUs from the late 90s. but from what i have seen, they don't change a lot from one year to the next but they do change. in 95/96 they added the wires / pins for the obd2 port. and in 97 / 98 they moved ? some of the sensor pins. but as long as the wire connectors are the same it should be pretty straight forward. the engine will likely run with the newer ECU (maybe not, but i have seen no evidence that they ''moved'' major component pins). the 98 outback will run with a 96 lego ECU but with a constant cel (purge flow fault i think, p1104 & p0441). with a 97 ECU it will run but with different codes (knock sensor maybe, p0325).

ok, 96 - 99 5 speed trans: if it came out of an outback, GT, or LSi it has a 4.11 ratio. if it came out of an impreza or legacy L, LS or brighton it has a 3. 9 ratio. period.

i would be very surprised if subaru changed it. clcik on the ''usage info'' for usa legacy. they used this part in ALL of their cars for a lot of years. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21203AA030/

if time is an issue, advance auto has them for $16.20. click on pic. Quick View BWD Coolant Temperature Sensor Be the first to review Part No. WT522Z Warranty Details Category: Replacement Parts Type of Fit: Exact Store Availability Ship to Home $16.19 QTY

put in your zip code and sort your search by distance. shipping is expensive. www.car-part.com i think you have a 4.11 rear diff final drive ratio. you can use the VLSD from any matching ratio. outback 5 speed or i think, but i'm not 100% sure, legacy auto trans car.

yes, but all 2.5L 5 speeds (outback, GT, LSi) of those years have the same 4.11 ratio. the 3.9 ratio was only in the 2.2L cars, (impreza and legacy L, LS, brighton). the one exception was the 96 outback 2.2L 5 speed, it had the same trans/ ratio as the other 2.5L cars, not the 2.2L cars.