johnceggleston

does any one know if low fluid will damage the transfer clutches? this is probably a moot point since low fluid will definitely damage the internals of the trans, like no reverse. i lost the rear main seal on my 95 auto trans at ~160k going 70mph on the hiway. i felt a shudder and then a boom like feeling. i drove about 20 miles to the repair shop and had the seal replaced. (at idle trans fluid was pouring out from under the car, not good.) when the service station replaced the seal the tech did not ADD any fluid. and i stupidly paid the bill and drove away with even asking them any questions about the work. i was an idiot, a real dumb-a$$. later that evening i went to back out of a parking space and i had no reverse. i checked the fluid and there was none. i drove to a parts store and added ~4 qts. but the damage was done. i later bought a 96 lego wreck for 400$ and used the the trans in my 95. gave the car to my son and he drove it all the way through college . (i had already bought a replacement.) i then used the engine from the 96 wreck in a 97 GT with bad head gaskets which i'm now / still driving, 30k so far. low or no fluid will destroy an auto trans. but short of that, or one that has never had the fluid changed , these auto trans will go for the life of the car. it is one of their strong points. so buying a used one for $300 - $500 is a safe bet, especially if it was running when it crashed and the fluid looks good.

slightly off topic but on the subject of alignments: the local merchants tire store has a computerized machine and the software tells the tech that in order to adjust the front camber on subarus ''aftermarket cam bolts'' were needed. on their 3rd try to get my alignment right, i watched them and corrected them. they finally got it right. also, free alignment checks should be the norm since it takes less than 10 minutes to snap on the hardware and check.

yes, i have seen and dealt with this. my receiver was used and it did have the ''stamped'' notch. but my ball mount was new and from wal-mart? and was too long to line up the hole for the pin. my solution was to shorten the ball mount by the 1''-2'' that i needed. ( zzz ) 4 years later i'm still using it with no problems. my other choice was to drill a new hole for the pin in the ball mount.

subaru AWD cars need the tires to all be the same size or you get torque bind. go buy 2 more tires and you will be fine. if you wait too long the new tiresyou buy will be larger than the worn 2 you have already bought. a life time of reading on torque bind: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1273423

on an auto trans you can remove the rear section of drive shaft. leave the front section in place so fluid does not leak out. and you can drive it as a front wheel drive car for ever. my son's 95 has been this way for about 40k miles. what's wrong with your trans? is it an auto?

that is exactly what wpuld happen if you tried to start the car in gear.

yes the crank seal is the same for ej22 and ej25 1990 - 2009 or so. yes they are subaru parts . they are a subaru dealer. you can find the part numbers at the http://www.subarupartsforyou.com site and then plug them into the subarugenuineparts.com site for a price compare.

subaru parts for you has them , crank = $8, cam = $7, each; plus shipping, $8 - $10 ???. make a list of the parts you need and then go to the parts counter at your local dealer. tell them you are going to buy all the parts on the list and ask if they will match the online / wholesale price. they may do it rather than loose the sale altogether. http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=4929 http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=4948 www.subarugenuineparts.com has them for $6.27 and 5.87, respectively, plus $9 shipping. that's less than $8 each delivered to your door.

yes, direct swap.

i'm not a trans expert, but i here that auto trans almost always have metal in hte pan.

first try a bottle of ''trans-x'' . it is a trans fluid additive. there is a long long thread with lots of folks having success with it. i may not help, but it may hael a lot and is less than 10 $$. if you have ot replace the trans , first post a wanted on the classifides here then look at www.car-part.com.

as long as the crank is in the correct timing position, it does not matter, you will not hit any thing.

i probably have it, what piece do you need??

like this: the ej22 flex plate has a smaller diameter than the ej25 but you should still be able to find a ''catch''. any catch will do. see below and find a ''catch''. this pic even shows a screwdriver in the hole. (thanks, google images) page 3 , here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=993364#post993364

you can find a part number at http://opposedforces.com/parts but you will likely have to special order all 8? pieces as a set from a dealer.

i didn't even know that a p0420 CEL would override the cruise function. is this for real?

EXACT same trans, just a different year. no worries, enjoy.

when doing the timing belt on a SOHC ej22, if the crank is in the correct position all the pistons are at mid stroke / mid way between the top and bottom. so with the belt OFF, so you can rotate the cams as much as you want with no interference. how ever it is good to note that turning the crank 90 degrees will bring 2 pistons to the top of the cylinder, and an interference point. so as long as the crank is within about 45? degrees of the correct mark i would think you are ok even if the belt jumps a few teeth. but when doing the timing belt, set the crank to the correct timing mark and then remove the belt. don't move the crank much, or at all, until the belt is back on and you will be good.

i have a 95 auto trans out of an impreza with less than 100k miles. let me know if you are interested. the only difference is the speedo drive, mine is cable driven and yours has a speed sensor. the change over is really simple. everything else is exactly the same. i'm in roanoke, va. we could meet half way.

it sounds like the torque converter was not fully seated when you installed the engine and when you tightened the bolts up it crushed the trans oil pump. this is not an uncommon occurrence for first timers. there is a good thread covering how to seat the torque convertr, search ''torqueconverter'' and read some of the older threads. the solution is a used trans. sorry for your problems.

did you use these timing marks? the key should have been in the 6 o'clock positing.

not unless you swap in the matching ej25 rear diff as well. they have different final drive ratios. but that is the only difference.

i would do the red and blue. i don't think you can do too much. this is one case where a glob of rtv inside should not be a problem. am i wrong?

full size tires will fit in the legacy space, i would assume impreza to be the same. how ever, you may not be to fit the ''tool tray'' in with it if you have one. or if a sedan you may have to remove the ''foam '' blocks that help support the ''trunk floor''.

how much did you spend on the parts? not counting the beers. how long did it take?