johnceggleston

could it be the switch?

i would have the AC looked at by an AC shop. it may just need charging. as far as the computer goes, you can buy one for $50 - $100, maybe less and install it in 15 minutes. look here, http://www.car-part.com, if you decide to buy one, but i doubt you will need it. i have never heard of the computer causing the AC to fail. http://www.car-part.com

as stated the front sections of the drive shaft are different between the autos and the manuals. but the 91 auto rear diff and the 93 manual rear diff should be the same, 4.11. assuming turbos are not involved. check here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148

the above statement could be 8 gals which would be over 34 mpg. that is not likely, but maybe possible. how many gallons did you put in the tank?

since you didn't know the gaskets had been done before my guess is you haven't had it since new. question: did the nick in the head contribute to the head gasket failure THIS time? how many miles did this gasket last? how many miles have you had the car? is it worth the risk / expense to get the same number of miles this time?

i had a similar problem in one of my cars due to spilling coke onto it. i was able to spray windex on it and work the buttons loose and then sprasy silcone on it. i have sold the car but it was still working when i sold it. on another one, i did the same thing and i got the buttons moving but the functions never started working. as a matter of fact i lost one of the ones that had been working. so i swapped that one out. regarding the lower end of the cable. it is located ner the fire wall on the passenger side next to the center ''hump''. it attaches to a white / ivory colored post on the vent control. to remove it you have to pull the ''c-clip'' which is in the center of the metal wedged shape clip. it looks a little like a binder clip for papers. pull the c-clip, then slip the cable to the side out of the larger clip. now you have to swivel it around until it clears a white plastic piece and slide it up off of the post. the only difficult part is reinstalling the c-clip after you have put it all back together. and you want the heat control lever position up top to match the vent position down below. full cold , i think, can't remember. this ensures you get full movement in the lever and the vent once done. it also means you are not getting any heat when you have it on cold.

there is probably already thread telling how to do this. maybe even some pictures. try searching ''stuck caliper'' or ''slide pins'' and have a read.

confirm that the leak is in fact coolant. then top up the coolant level and ''burp'' it to get all the air out. (let it idle w/ the rad cap off until the temp gauge reads normal then top it up and put the cap on.) let it idle in the drive way and look for where it is leaking. the large hoses should be pretty obvious. the water pump is behind the timing front cover on the driver side. but there are smaller heater hoses and other stuff that are hard to see. once it low on coolant it may start to ''hiss' or ''steam'' from the leak, but not for sure. when the coolant in these engines gets low, due to a leak for instance, it can create an ''air lock'' that prevent what little coolant there is from circulating. this will cause your heater to blow cool air. no coolant is circulating through the heater core.

the ''damper'' piece is a rubber cushion for when you roll it back up. so it has a bumper. the other piece, the ''stopper'' is the plastic tip that does the work holding it in place when it is extended. i just bought one for my 98, pretty cheap. you may need to order the screws / bolts as well.

if it is still stiff there is something else wrong. does it have enough fluid? is the belt in good condition? is it making noise? what caused you to ''bleed'' it in the first place? what are the symptoms now and what were the symptoms before you started working on it?

basically what you are looking at is the head gasket job, the timing belt job plus the water pump and timing pulleys not replaced last time, and some bent valves. just a guess but probably only one side and probably not all of them. so it could be pricey. who did the timing belt.? if it was the dealer i would blame them for the failure. i have a dollar that says it was the toothed timing idler that failed. the dealer should have known to replace it if they are the ones who did the belt. most shops, well a lot of them anyway, including dealers, only replace the idlers if they are making noise.this is not a good practice when the change interval is 105k miles. not replacing it at 115k means it will have to go 220k miles with out failure. that's asking a lot of a bearing that was greased at the factory.

this one is pretty good, but it does not cover the dis-connect of the heater cable at the lower end. plus it stops short and says ''go no further'' which is not accurate. you can remove more, making it easier to get to the bulbs. in case you haven't figured it out yet, replace the bulbs before you install the ''new used'' unit. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/change-heater-control-lights-95-99-legacy-26408.html?t=26408&highlight=bulb+replacement

i assume this is a legacy GT with the 2.5L engine. i can't imagine a 2.2L engine having this much trouble. your experience pretty much sums up what is said here every day about the ej25 headgaskets. 1. use subaru gaskets, the re-do rate seems to be higher with other breands. 2. if it's been severely overheated it can throw a rod or spin a bearing. 3. when buying a replacement ej25 engine do the gaskets before you install it. (see #2 above) 4. if buying an unknown engine,(see #2 & #3 above) you are safer with an ej22 swap. some folks swear that the felpro gaskets are the same as subaru, but subaru gaskets are for sure subaru gaskets.

there is a great thread w/ great pics on removing the HVAC control. i don't think it is on this board but i know it is out there. it has to do with ''bulb replacement'', you might try searching that.

on a side note similar to the above post. when hauling lumber on a ''car top'' the single biggest limiting factor is the length of the cross bars, not the width. if the crossbars are 30 inches apart, (2.5 ft.) it is really difficult to carry anything of much weight that is more than 8 or 10 feet long. the base is so small that the weight gets top heavy and squirrelly in a hurry. 12 feet is out of the question. if you are serious about carrying lumber, more than a few pieces, design and build a rack inside where the base can be longer than 30 inches, maybe as much as 6 feet, with the excess extending out of the open rear hatch, like a pick up. just my opinion. ps: i carried all sorts of building construction materials on top of my 90 nissan pick up w/ truck cap and ''reinforced ladder rack'' for 15 years. never had a failure or lost a load. plan ahead. and good luck.

one slight draw back the ones that tell you what the code means is that some manufacturers have codes specific to their cars which may be different than the ''generic'' definition.

20 - 25% just a guess. put it in 4th and note the rpm. then do the math.

for the price of a carfax you MAY be able to find some info on the original car by the vin#. it will not tell you how many miles were put on it once it was swapped into the impreaza but it will be a starting point. for the same price you could also run the vin of the car it was pulled from. that will probably tell you less but you never know and it will not cost any more. if it drove fine and had no indications of ills, i would probably have it installed and drive it. if you drive for 1000 miles for every $100 you spend you will be cheaper than a new car. if you drive double that then you have done great. the installer/ seller has the y-pipe you need. it was attached to the engine.

i think he said the heads have dual ports, this makes it a 90 - 95 ej 22 or a ej18. but no way is this a 98 ej22. is this engine going in or coming out? if going in and your car has an auto trans, you need to make sure it has the needed EGR stuff. otherwise you will always have a CEL. (at least this is what happens when replacing ej25s with engines w/out egr. and in some states you can't pass annual inspection with a CEL.) you will also need the exhaust y-pipe to match the dual ports. call the yard and make a point, this engine is not what you paid for. mistakes can happen. all of this does not mean it won't work and be a good engine. you just need to make sure it has the egr, if needed, and you definitely need the y-pipe. (they should GIVE you that and reduce the price on the engine, IMO)

+1, there is a flat rectangle on the passenger side of the bell housing where it meets the trans. the 10th letter/ number in the vin indicates the year. L 1990, M 1991, N 1992, P 1993, R 1994, S 1995, T 1996, V 1997, W 1998, X 1999, Y 2000, 1 2001, 2 2002, 3 2003, 4 2004, 5 2005, 6 2006, 7 2007, 8 2008...

is the hand brake on???????????????????

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36

if at least one rear wheel is up off the ground you should be able to turn the drive shaft by hand, or at least the wheel that's up. what did you do inside the housing??

i thought all manual trans had the sensor on the left, but i have never sen one so obviously i'm wrong. one cause of a VSS cel in in some years is bad , weak, loose grounding screws on the back side od the speedo head. this is especially true of the 99s the ground on them id so bad that the fix is to add a small ground wire. first, i would pull the speedo and tighten the 4 or 5 screws on the back side of the instrument cluster. i think they are even marked. don't over tighten them just snug them up. to test, the vss can fail, i have a 96 lego that had one. to test (i worried that it was the drive gears inside the trans), i put the drive tip of the VSS in a small tube, vac line i think, and the other end of the tube in my electric drill. i then hookrd the wires up to my volt meter. the bad vss gave me nothing. the good one gave a ''jumpy'' needle. keep the rpm on the drill pretty low, ~700/800 revs = a mile, so keep it in that range. but check the speedo first. intermittent sounds like a loose screw to me.

look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts or maybe even easier, http://www.subarupartsforyou.com