suruba

It's supposed to be ISO compatible. update: After letting it sit for a few hours, I tried again before going to bed and all was well. Started right up as usual, lights came on, went out, no problems. Maybe it just needs to reset itself over time before you can start again. Was scared there for a while. Now I just hope it was the gas cap and that I'm not ignoring something serious. As I understand, it could take a while for the CEL to come back on even if there's still a problem? Thanks again.

2 days ago my CEL came on while driving home on the highway in my 2002 Outback Wagon, 5-speed manual. No symptoms, nothing obvious under the hood, no smells or leaks, just the light on. I have an Actron PocketScan OBDII Code Reader/Eraser and pulled a P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Leak - Small). After talking with the dealer's mechanic over the phone, I went ahead and erased the code, hoping it would be just my gas cap and not come back on. The device had no trouble reading or erasing the code (no fails or retries). However, immediately after erasing it, I turned the ignition key to the off position, unplugged the device, waited a few seconds and turned the engine on. The only light that came on during the start was my emergency brake light. The dashboard was completely dark instead of the initial all-lights-on, then off. And worse yet, the engine barely started, like I had a bad battery and it sounded like it would stall any second. I did everything according to the instructions. Is there a reset period after erasing a code with a device like this, versus doing the disconnecting the battery method? Is this normal, or have I just made things worse? Thanks for any advice.

That makes sense. I've heard that too (not saying that's the case with the BFGs) but it comes down to efficiency vs. traction. The key is to find the tire with the best compromise. And since there isn't any standardized published info from the manufacturers, you gotta go on word of mouth. And that, my friends, is a whole separate can of worms Sometimes reading reviews online, you wonder if people are talking about the same product (i.e. "quiet tire", "too noisy", "great on snow", "no traction", etc). I guess it all depends on driving style, car model, tire size and too many other variables. As the say, your mileage may vary (yes, pun intended Thanks.

I have a basic 5-speed manual 02 OBW and have noticed the following: When accelerating, unless I give it a good amount of gas, the engine seems to hesitate. Not like it's gonna stall, more like I'm changing how much gas is being given. It's hard to keep the acceleration smooth. It also happens when coasting (in gear, but no gas) at slower speeds - again, not talking real slow or close to stalling. It doesn't seem to matter whether or not the engine is cold/warm. Also, it seems like after certain RPMs I get a sudden boost. Shifting seems fine, just the accelerating part is jerky. I've only used 87 gas, from different stations, haven't noticed any difference. Is this just the nature of manual subies? I've only been driving it for 2 months so it's all a bit new to me. Thanks.

Thanks. I did see that document. Unfortunately, the local Discount Tire doesn't offer any of them. http://www.greenseal.org/recommendations/CGR_tire_rollingresistance.pdf

Yes, I narrowed it down to these based on Tirerack reviews. Some people have mentioned a decrease in mpg with the TTs. I was wondering if it affected the others as well. Thanks.

I'm looking at replacing the infamous OEM "crapenzas" with a set from one of the options below and would like some input on whether or not anybody has experienced a reduction in their mpg using them. Obviously I'm not making a decision solely on that factor, but I'm curious in case it comes to a tie in the end. Here are the ones I'm considering for all-season on my 2002 OBW (225-60-16) Yokohama AVID TRZ BFGoodrich Traction T/A H Kumho Touring A/S 795 Goodyear Assurance TripleTred Falken Ziex ZE512 Thanks.

I've been looking for a few months and this is the cheapest I've seen for that year/mileage combo. It's still a little more than I want to spend, though. They won't go any lower. It was $15k, they went down to $14,500 and finally $14k. The saab 92x/impreza wagon is too small for me. I need the cargo room for my 2 dogs + luggage. thanks

I have a deposit on a 2002 OBW 5-speed manual that I looked at and was wondering if it's a good deal. It drives fine, looks pretty clean and has service records from the dealership. Here are the pro's: Clean condition Service records, including recalls. Heated seats Heated mirrors Towing kit low miles (less than 40k) compass on mirror Con's: was a smoker's car, even though it doesn't smell too bad, you can still tell a little. has a 2-inch ding on the front edge of the hood from a heavy loading cart that hit it in a parking lot. You can't see it because the dealer installed a Subaru bug/rock deflector over it. It looks sharp, actually, but I'm concerned about any future rust problems. It doesn't seem to have broken the paint (yet, anyway). They were advertising it for 15k, but I can get it for $14k. Is that worth it? Looking at Edmunds, it's worth anywhere between $14,800 and $13,300, depending on whether I rate it as "clean" or "average." I just don't know if those 2 con's are really that big of a deal. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks all for the advice. I may be going to look at it tomorrow. The place has some automatics for the same price but much higher mileage (60k). Reliability and maintenance costs all being equal, I'd prefer the manual for the low miles and more fun to drive.

First, hello to everyone. This is my first post. I'm glad I found this place. Thank you all in advance. I'm looking at a 2002 Outback wagon, Standard, 2.5, manual. It's at a Subaru dealer, but not necessarily a certified car. I don't even know if they have any service records for it (haven't been to it yet, just saw it online). From researching, it sounds like the biggest thing to be careful about is the head gasket problem. If they have the service records, what should it say for the remedy taken? Is the fluid additive enough, or should parts have been replaced? And if they don't have any records, how do I know whether or not that was a problem with that car, whether it's gone or just temporarily stopped? I'm not mechanically-savvy, so any specific description would help. What other things should I look for/be concerned about? The car has under 40000 miles. What about it being a stick? Any major problems in that area? What else? I've always thought of Subarus as reliable cars, but after looking at customer reviews and forums, I must say I'm a bit gun-shy about it. I realize I can go on any forums for any vehicle and there will be scary stuff about them too, so I'm also taking that into account. I just want to be more informed, that's all. Any feedback is very appreciated.