Quidam

You know, I've always considered Fujibond or Ultra Gray on Subaru engines as a structural gasket. Why it sets hard. Here's a bit on that and Subaru was sealing EA 82's with Fujibond in 1985, weren't they. Is Fujibond considered a structural gasket? Structural Gasketing - Chrysler Reduces Deflection in A 523 Transaxles Date Published: 1990-02-01 Paper Number: 900200 DOI: 10.4271/900200 Citation: Bratcher, R., Bonutti, H., and Myers, R., "Structural Gasketing - Chrysler Reduces Deflection in A 523 Transaxles," SAE Technical Paper 900200, 1990, doi:10.4271/900200. Author(s): Roger Bratcher - Loctite Corp. Hank Bonutti - Loctite Corp. Richard A. Myers - Association of Renault And Chrysler Abstract: Structural gasketing is a dual purpose product technology that not only provides fluid sealing but also enhances the load carrying ability of the assembly. This gasketing approach has been used by automakers for 15 years and was recently adopted by Chrysler on their FWD manual transaxles. Transaxle housing deflection across joints was reduced by over 50%, torque capacity was increased 10% (due to better gear and bearing alignment), and sealing warranty was reduced by over 90%. Field experience correlates very well to laboratory tests of thin film structural gasketing in heavily bolted joints, which evidence greatly enhanced shear stiffness and strength over other gasketing methods. HYLOMAR has been around for a long time, here's their listing for engine and transmission case halves. "Hylomar Gasket 2000 is a formed in place (FIP) single component anaerobic curing flexible sealant, which cures in the joint to form a flexible plastic seal. The product is designed to replace traditional solid gaskets. The thixotropic properties of Hylomar Gasket 2000 prevent migration of the sealant before or during curing. Once cured the compound is resistant to shock and vibration. Typical applications include structural gasketing of engines and transmission components and for general engineering uses. Hylomar Gasket 2000 will seal against gases, water, LPG, hydrocarbons, oils, and other chemicals. Use Anaerobic Activator to clean surfaces and accelerate cure times. To eliminate extra gasket maker, use Hylomar Rally Wipes. Curing System: Anaerobic Average Cure Time: 1 hr Functional Cure Time: 3 - 6 hrs Temperature Range (Cured): -60 Deg. F. to 300 Deg. F. I'd try this stuff on an engine. Here's their other version. Hylomar Multi Gasket 4000 is an anaerobic curing adhesive for the gasketing and sealing of flanges. It replaces solid gaskets, giving a flexible cured film. Hylomar 4000 is typically used on cast oil sumps, carburetor manifolds, alloy rocker rovers, differential casings, axle flanges and other machined surfaces. Use Anaerobic Activator to clean surfaces and accelerate cure times. To eliminate extra gasket maker, use Hylomar Rally Wipes. Curing System: Anaerobic Handling Time: 10 - 20 min. Functional Cure Time: 3 - 6 hrs. Temperature Range (Cured): -70 Deg. F. to 300 Deg. F. What do you all think? Doug

You could get a large portable air tank, and with a leak down tester, get a pretty good idea of ring and valve seal. If you can hear air in the intake it's leaking past the valves. If you hear it in the crankcase, it's rings. Taking into account it's a "cold" engine. If you've got the valve covers off look for heat tabs, usually placed lower/center on the head when a head is remanufactured. The center is in contact with the head and melts at 260* F. The adhesive used to install the heat tabs is good for 350* F. I had a now scrapped EA 82 with 120,XXX miles on it. I was the second owner if you don't count the dealer where the car was traded in. The heat tab on the passenger side head fell off, so it got overheated to the tune of 350*...at least. The oil cooked and the rings on the passenger side were stuck in their grooves,2nd ring on Cyl # 1 did come off. The rings all came off #2 and #4 but the oil was still cooked there. It got so hot it split the bore in #3. A bore scope would be a good tool to look in the cylinders but I haven't ran across one yet that lets me move the tip around, so it's frustrating and of limited value. I have access to an expensive one, but I can't turn the tip and look around. After thinking about it with a time crunch or something to do first, concentrate your attention to Cyl #3. It seemed odd I had a crack between the valves on cylinder #2 and #3. There's a clue there. Both cylinders are the same if you swapped the heads side to side. I polished the crank out of it though. Mickey Mouse intact and front and rear seals pliable so it still had oil pressure. What a 120,000 crank looks like. Rod and Main bearings relatively unharmed. Tips of the rods have cooked oil on them. I thought it may have been bored thin where that split is but this block, the cylinder liners were cast and bored near perfect. It split just beyond the aluminum from the siamese bore area. Here's a real problem with the EA 82 blocks. Siamese bores. This violates two physical laws right off the bat. For a cylinder to be perfectly round it has to have consistent wall thickness, and equal temperature all around. When these are overheated, damage is done. And old cars get driven home anyway. Doug

The grey Permatex is the hardest setting of that line of silicone and it's what I would use on case halves. I use Permatex #2 soft setting to glue water pump gaskets to the water pump. Same stuff I glue the thermostat gasket to the thermostat housing. Non stick the gasket faces if they aren't all ready and you can remove either and put them back on without a fuss. They stay in place. Doug

Hey, Man, that looks ugly. Looks good under the valve cover though. You plan to flush it? I had a Justy EF 12 looked something like that so I took the oil plug out and went at it with a parts cleaning brush and lots of kerosine. I had to change the oil and filter twice within a short time, then it was clean. Just something about certain old trucks...like Brats. I got paid 250 hrs work on this truck from California a few years ago. In the end with the motor, it had so much bore rust I couldn't get enough compression for it to run. I think water got down the carbs tho from a leaky roof. S 283 CI with cam, springs, aluminum retainers. Power glide 2 speed auto, Pontiac rear.

I did the same 20 mile loop today. New thermostat now puts 190* F to the heater core. This car has a rodded out copper/brass single core rad in it and I flushed the entire cooling system twice on it. I get hot to the touch from the vents but I think it could be better. Temp probe all over the heater core wasn't consistent. Mine probably has a pretty thick coating of Cal/Lime...there were cool spots on it too, like 80*F. I'll be replacing it at some point. Need to pull one from a 124,XXX GL I'm parting out. hth Doug

Ha! Now I know what you mean. Drove the Loyale 10 miles through the hills, chip and seal roads. The temp gage only went not quite halfway between Cold and halfway. Heat just didn't feel hot. My first winter with this car with a now junked OEM stat. I drove it home a different route on the freeway, the temp gage came up but not to half way. I put the temp gun on the stat lower housing and most I got was 173*F, top was 150's. Installed new USA made stat I had on hand and now have the proper temp from that lower housing. Old stat is dead. I'll measure the temp on the heater core next time I drive. I took the AC evap box out. A tip from Woods Wagon. It was oily and really dirty where the expansion valve had leaked/seeped over the years. Air flow wouldn't have been great over it. Anyway, I hit it one time and got 143* F on the heater core. That will probably go up now. Here's the AC Delete factory box from an '88 DL wagon. I'm expecting hotter heat now. Doug

Water pump pushes coolant through the block, then the heads up to the intake manifold. The metal tube out the back of the intake manifold supplies the heater core. The out line from the heater core runs to the water pump. Thermostat closed. A laser temp gun would help you sort it out. By your description, it still doesn't work like it's supposed to. I keep thinking a partially plugged heater core. But, don't know. Doug

With a stock EA 82T the effective compression ratio is somewhere around 11.5 1 at full stock boost. If you don't have required octane for that the knock sensor pulls timing back. If it's gone as far as it can with that it will ping. And there is pinging not readily noticed unless you have the hearing for it. Any ping is destructive. The reason some people just aren't equipped to deal with a turbo car, and really shouldn't own them. Doug

I changed the original post a little. All three pumps listed there are made in Japan. All are very good looking pumps, quality castings. I've got a short and long GMB set of pump I'll never use. They're new but metal impeller. If you're looking at listings for these pumps the picture won't show the impeller if they're metal impeller. That's been my experience, if it's cast the picture will reflect that. Want to edit that. Rock Auto AC Delco pump listing for an '86 RX says they're cast impeller but doesn't show it in the pic. A lot of the other listings, no way to tell what they are. Doug

If you have an engine that you care about, don't use the metal impeller water pumps on these engines. They're simply not as good as a cast iron unit. AC and Turbo cars came with them new. Here's the OEM Atsugi, pic from a current ebay seller. 110mm pump $48.00, 104mm pump $54.00 shipped. These are just for reference. Companies now are selling the metal ones for almost that much. Paraut and ATP both have cast iron too. All of those pumps have better seals and bearings. You don't just throw them away every timing belt change. Cardone has been available for remanufactured cast iron pumps. Two Paraut pumps I just looked at had that pin in the side. Never opened one up, but it looks like they are made to be rebuilt. Doug

Jet aircraft are lubed exclusively with synthetic because of their resistance to extremely high temps. It's been said that the modern jet aircraft simply wouldn't exist without it. A good synthetic can withstand 500*F for many hours and temps of 800-900*F for brief periods. One test of the best mineral based oil an author could find was that it flashed after 20-30 minutes at 320*F. This was years ago, and some the first reading I did on synthetic. It was developed for highly stressed operating conditions. IMO, any turbo sube requires synthetic. Or more frequent mineral oil changes. Doug

Here is the Gates OE EXACT fit. "This type is engineered with a self-cleaning, self-aligning stainless steel valve". Never used one but it looks pretty good. Compare to a Stant OE type for these cars. Gates is the better one here. I run an OE now and it's old, so old the rubber inside is cracking, but it still works. OE thermostats are built like the old Robert Shaw stats for old american iron. You hardley ever have to replace them. That Gates is the better of the two though. I've seen the bottom type malfunction where the pin not being tied down gets cocked and stick open. Once upon a time, I don't think I couldive even bought a junk american made thermostat. They're just not what they used to be. Doug

Just some thoughts. That shim in your oil pump may not be a bad thing even with the slightly thicker oil. And a high ZDDP oil is what these engines need. The ZDDP is attracted to metal and stays there even when the oil drains off. Cold start ups is where this comes in to play...and anything lower than about 160* F is "cold" to an engine. Cars with a three way cat call for lower ZDDP because ZDDP has that attraction to metal, it's also attracted to the metals in the cats and it's not good for an expensive three way. Reference pressure with 10W30 from a '90 XT FSM. 2,000 rpm 30-44 psi. 4,000 rpm 51-64 psi At 550 rpm you should see 14psi. Now, the Oil relief valve, pressure at which valve starts to open, @ 5,000 rpm it's listed at 57-64 psi. Keep that 64psi figure in mind with a factory 6,500 rpm redline. I'm on a quest to have 70psi @ 7,000 rpm. I haven't driven the Loyale in a week and yesterday I started it up, about 40* F temp. After it came to life and ran for a bit I reved it to about 3000 rpm and saw 80psi on the gage. Fully warm on the way home I took off in first and shifted at 7,000 rpm, engine running clean. Too busy to look at the oil pressure:) Wound it out to 6,500 rpm in second where I had 45psi. I had 50psi at about 5,000 rpm. With more load the pressure dropped. I'm going to try 15W40, stretch the springs in the cam cases, and possibly shim the relief spring in the pump. I need to know what it takes for 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Oh, this is a '87 GL SPFI engine with 170,XXX miles on it. About a thousand miles on it since swapping it in with two oil changes to flush it out. It's got 20W50 Wall Mart in it right now and doesn't make a peep engine noise wise. I'm pretty sure that I'll be shimming that spring. Doug

I think Miles did some groove work with a skilsawzzz I'll say this again and please correct it if it's wrong. From Chiltons. The XT MPFI made 94 and 97 depending on the year. The '90 SPFI made 90 hp. XT has longer duration cams, moved the power band up a bit. Those heads need a full port to get anything out of them. These intake bowls need hardly any work. There isn't an abundance of "meat" in them, like a typical cast iron old chevy. I don't see how you could make the flow over the valve any better. Just a good cleanup. Hope that makes sense. I laid out some work to do today for tomorrow. Carbide burr and tootsie roll work. Doug

I'm looking at the owners manual for a '92 Loyale and it says: CAUTION: SAE 5W 30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving. Temp range for that oil is 30* F. and below. It also recommends 10W30 or 10W40 otherwise. I work my Subaru hard and 20W50 is what I run summer. It's not "that" cold here yet and I plan to change it to 10 or 15W 40 soon. It's a good sign she's not making noise. Keep us posted eh? Doug

Is you motor making any unusual noise right now? What you find in the oil filter went through the oil pump first. Cut it and see. I install a magnetic drain plug in every car I drive that didn't come from the factory with one. The one in my EA 82 now I took from a scrapped 3AT front diff. Cheap insurance, even if you buy a new one. What you could do is slap an external magnet on the bottom of the oil pan and pull it off when you pull the plug next oil change. I know it's colder up there right now but I'm thinking a 5W(winter)30 is too thin for your engine. Subaru did use copper in bearings back then. 70 psi cold is what I see with 20W50 in mine, and it has the correct oil pressure when warm. Run it a thousand miles or whatever and change the oil again? But is it noisy right now? hth Doug

If you have 240psi cranking compression....that's excellent, and the cam would have to figure into that calculation. Need engine management?

I've got a set of these MPFI first gen heads. No paint Id on them, in this stage of completion. Carbide burr finish in the ports. I hand worked the combustion chambers with wet/dry carborundum paper. Consequently, their shape hasn't been substantially altered. Of course both stainless turbo valves make them turbo heads. MPFI NA has the stainless exhaust and the backcut intake...that's not stainless.

This assembly has two "pink" first gen drivers side heads. No cracks and I don't have to plug the head for the EGR. With this, no holes are drilled into the exhaust ports. I ported two cracked SPFI heads to get a feel for what to do to these. I measured the depressions in the exhaust bowl and it's roughly 2mm deep. If I press out the guides, I figure 3 mm removed will clean the exhaust bowls up pretty good. So yea, I've been considering the shortened guide too, and when I get to it, that's what I'll do. I don't think anything bad will happen, and the flow will be substantially improved. Doug

For EA 82's, I keep going back to 20W50 and it's what's in my 3AT Loyale. Reason being, the tranny shifts at 5000 rpm when you wind it out and it shifting automatically, and at that point I read 50 psi oil pressure. Right where it needs to be under load. 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Doug

Just some thoughts. Head porting is expensive, Ram Engines charges $250.00 for a mild EA port job. About $650.00 for a full port and flow bench test. The more heads I do the more I learn and any head under discussion starts with what gen it is and of course SPFI or MPFI. The unfinished sharp edge around the valves is horrific. I've measured this chunk of sharp aluminum to as much as .047 in depth. The sharp edge can form a hot spot and cause problems with detonation, as well as being sharp enough to induce cracks. This needs a roundover at least on all that have it. I've never had my hands on a gen 3 head so I don't know how that looks. The MPFI heads shown here benefit from removal of material in the intake ports. The exhaust ports, bowls aren't too bad. NA engines are under 21" vacuume or so, exhaust is under pressure, so main attention payed to the intake. The head bolt casting and HLA bump removal are gains to be had in #1 and #4, as well as raising the roof and dropping the floor of the port. The #2 and #3 intake ports are much less a chalange. A SPFI and MPFI NA EA 82 only has 4 to 7 hp difference between them, and that's with the MPFI NA XT having a bigger cam. The SPFI head has really good intake ports, and the valve has that back cut, 2 angle valve, but has a badly formed bowl under the exhaust valve.At least gen 1 and 2, due to the EGR boss at each corner of the head extending into the exhaust port. That boss is actually the ugliest part of those exhaust ports. Keep in mind the #1 and #4 ports are slightly shorter than the #2 and #3 ports. These EA engines are going to be around for some time to come, one because of their light weight, reduce, reuse, and recycle comes into play and I can't see throwing away perfectly good parts and aparantly other folks don't subscribe to that either. Ram Engines now sells a 130hp EA 82 with SPFI heads with their new stand alone fuel injection system. I logged about 4 hours porting today. There's a reason head porting is pricey, and it's not for everyone. There is indeed power to be had with EA 82 heads if you pay the price. And the New York Times said, "God is Dead". GD For you gearheads with inquiring minds when it comes to normally asperated tech, look this article over. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/89943/pro_stock_engine_technology.aspx Engine builder mag from a year or so ago. Goes into some interesting detail describing 500ci NA engines now knocking on the door of 3 hp per CI. And they rarely fail. Doug

Hey, been busy working over some heads. I believe I've done 10 EA 82 so far. This is a first generation Dual Port that I got bare, and it had been surfaced .007, no cracks. Still have work to do to the upper left sides of both ports. Get all the line of sight I can. Head will be cut a total of .012 at least. Here you can see that I cut all the aluminum out all the way to the valve seats. A lot of valve unshrouding going on here. I'm going to cc a new head and see where it all shakes out. I want a small chamber, but I didn't want all that aluminum in there either. So, a .012 at least cut on the heads, .016 cut off the decks...I'd have to measure again but I think I measured .125 piston to valve on another setup so .097 piston to valve will work. Later

One advantage to changing your own oil and filter. Take a close look at the oil that is drained. If the rod bearings are going, you'll see the flakes in the drain pan. Doug

On the intake...If you hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vac and poke it through the hood opening in front of the drivers seat, so you can see it, this will tell you something. If you see anything but 0 on the gauge at WOT you have a restriction. My list for more SPFI power. Cut the header right after the cat with the hole large enough to insert a 2' ID pipe. Gut the cat for off road. If you've seen the original pipe without the heat shields in place, well, it's a pretty small, mangled and crushed piece. Yea, so at least true 2" ID from there to the rear bumper. XT cams or delta stage one, or Delta stage two preferably. More compression will always make more power. Genuine Subaru head gaskets are on the order of .009 to .010 thinner than Fel Pro. A cold retorque on Genuine Subaru will reduce the thickness by .003. To about .060" thick. Deck the block .016 giving you about .044 quench which is a very good number. Helps reduce detonation with reduced quench. This is probably a premium fuel motor at this point just like a Frankenmotor or Turbo. If you want to play, you've got to pay. The point of this is to make use of the rpm range the EA 82 is capable of. More fuel pressure and injector. Would the factory CPU freak out at this point? Doug

It's not clear if Delta sent you shims to compensate for what was removed. I thought it was standard procedure for them to do so. Shaving the cam cases would also work. I don't see where it would advance the timing too much. Just more duration, valves open longer. Doug