Quidam

I've never had a problem with the electric fan working the same with AC removed. You've got something else going on. Doug

Hi, I'm uploading a picture for you to photobucket, it will explain everything about getting your motor in time. Be right back. Bring the number 1 cylinder up on the compression stroke with your finger in the spark plug hole. Use something to feel when the piston is at tdc, rock it back and forth with the crank pulley/nut. When you're satisfied it's at top dead center on compression stroke, put the belts on it with the pulleys in the positions shown below. It's in time at this point and drop the distributor in and line it up with number one on the cap. If you have any questions, just ask. hth Doug FYI, if you "lock" the harmonic balancer in with pins you can then mark your balancer at tdc for future reference with a fabricated pointer. Some XT's came this way from the factory. You could put degree marks on the balancer for timing advance purposes as well. I drilled an extra pin hole in this balancer 180 degrees from the original. This balancer is junk and I'm not using it, but this is how that looks.

Thoughts? You didn't say what kind of oil pressure you had or how the engine sounded. It's possible you had low enough oil pressure to starve the drivers side camshaft, causing it to bind in the cam case, breaking the belt. Hard to say, all the way over here though. Doug

You may be aware of this but there are machines for this motorized, dial indicator and all to take off a set amount in one go. 2, 3 hundred bucks. Never used one but they get rave reviews for ease of use and just getting the job done quickly. Have to do enough to make that worth while, of course. I have no idea why Subaru rings are so expensive...I've studied it and can't figure it out. Other ring mfgs just don't charge that much for the same quality. Doug

Hey torxxx, I'd take a close look at the pulleys too. I've seen some pretty rough ones. The rpm you were at isn't a factor, I think. These things will do that all day. One thing I'd check is the bolts holding on the cam case and that they're all tight. From personal experience, if those are out of whack the cam can bind. Doug

I did a little research and this car started out with the AA395 ECU. This from an ebay dealer. 90 91 92 93 SUBARU LOYALE ENGINE COMPUTER ECU ECM 22611 AA395 OEM COMPATIBLE WITH THE FOLLOWING. LOYALE 90 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); w/o turbo LOYALE 91-92 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); LOYALE 93 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); ID 22611-AA396 (thru 8/92) SUBARU PASS. 88 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 3 Dr (Cpe, Lftbk, VIN G), w/o turbo SUBARU PASS. 88-89 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 4 Dr (Sdn & SW), w/o turbo SUBARU PASS. 89 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); (LH dash), 3 Dr (Cpe, Lftbk, VIN G), w/o turbo Ident: 22611AA390 Ident: 22611AA391 Ident: 22611AA392 Ident: 22611AA393 Ident: 22611AA394 Ident: 22611AA395 Ident: 22611AA396 Doug

I suppose it's possible that the bushing gets forced up to the point of expanding over the ring on the lifter. That snap ring is there to limit the travel of the bushing...cut away huh? Doug

For what it's worth...I had some time yesterday pulled and cleaned all the grounds in the engine compartment just to rule that out and be done with that. No change. Dealing with two weak batteries so bought a new one today. This evening I put it in, no change. I'd probed and tested all under the hood so I unplugged all the connections going up into the steering column, plugged them back in and and it started with the key. The Loyale CPU is dead, car is running on the "88 GL unit. Car hasn't ran in nearly 4 years. Doug

Ha, I was thinking using gasoline too:) I've never seen any stuck ones before though. Sounds like varnish possibly? Anyway, I cleaned some stuff a couple weeks ago using regular gas from a Marathon station. It disolves varnish I discovered, and I used gloves because it causes burning of the skin near instant. I thought next time I pull some varnished wrist pins that's what I'd try. PB Blaster won't disolve that stuff, but I'm pretty sure that gasoline will. Doug

One thing you might be able to do is take .010 or less off the .020 over ringset. I don't know your particular mfg and that might not be acceptable. But I'm sure some rings you can do that ok'ed by the mfg. You'll have a bit more tension on them, of course. hth Doug

I'll take a look at that build of yours. Something you don't see every day. Stock pipe just bolted to the drivers side head. This one is still a pile of parts and I do some work on it when I can. Not going to happen this year, if anything over the winter. Bought a 304 stainless J pipe to fit the 2nd turbo. Genuine Subaru are the best headgaskets for this, as they're the thinnist I've found. Fel Pro are "fat" and Beck/Arnley are a little less so. I'll probably deck the block again and take the max off. Less quench/detonation, higher compression ratio. I've taken .006 off the deck and still have .120" piston to valve, so with no high lift cams in sight I'm thinking at least another .010 off the deck. Car might rust away in the meantime:brow: Doug

What year Loyale is this? Any codes on the CPU? Did you replace the CPU with an idintical unit? I have a no start Loyale 3 AT 4WD. Voltage at coil no spark out of coil. Swapped in known good one with ignitor. Long story short...no light on CPU. Replaced with '88 GL 5peed FWD unit. Then code 11, 13, crank angle sensor. Known good one swapped in, same thing. Check, double checked fuses and fusible links ignition relay...connections and such. Swapped in CPU from '88 GL 3 AT 4WD, light blinks 7 times now. I looked up codes in FSM, no 7 so that's normal? Didn't try to start it yet. And have no clue what caused the Loyale CPU to go belly up. I'm also having a problem with key start, changed the starter relay. May be a switch problem, don't know. Turns over fine with a remote button hooked up underhood. Got me scratching my head. Car hasn't ran in a few years. Fuel pump runs, getting fuel. I'll try to start it tomorrow on the '88 CPU. Doug

Here's some EA 82 Dual Port heads that I've spent some time on. I bought three solid carbide burrs of different shapes initially. The ones for aluminum, of course. I have an industrial Black and Decker 25000 rpm porting tool I've used and a 21000 rpm unit too...electric. I bought a 6" solid carbide burr to get to those longer ports. I've got a flexible shaft with a drill chuck on it I'll chuck up in the drill press to finish them. That one shouldn't be turned faster than 16000 rpm. I've done it, and it's scary at 21000 rpm. I've got the tootsie roll kit to clean them up and I prefer ball hones to do some of the work. More expensive tho I've done it because it really leaves a nice finish. Anyway, I'll try to get more pics. Doug

Some interesting reading there, thanks for the TI link. I'd say Subaru put the sensor close to the cylinder most likely to ping. On an old small block Chevy, that's cylinder 7 and 8. So, they put the knock sensor near the starter on those cylinders. Doug

That part around here rusts out and leaks. Removed one from a Loyale not long ago and put on a different pump. You might be able to just cut it off after the fuel line and cap the end some how. That part is crimped together. There is a fuel damper on SPFI cars "after" that fuel line connection. Between the fuel pump and fuel filter. Doug

Today, I would have opted for new headbolts. I solvent cleaned a set, wire wheeled them, then solvent cleaned them again. Eah, time consuming...and three I'd just like to toss. Doug

Hey, I've been following this thread...having read extensivly the NASIOC Frankenmotor stuff and a few thoughts. The DOHC motors may very well have a larger pump for more volume. It needs more oil in it because there are more places for or to be. Will probably have a little more capacity in the oil pan tool. I've read there of several different EJ oil pans and pickup tube arrangments. The whole power thing with this engine and the debate...from what I gather and find having looking at some Dyno sheets what happens is that you get a flatter more linear torque curve with it. More displacemenmt, higher compression ratio. And I was thinking if one of those is stock out there, you wouldn't expect to rev it to the moon or have anything fancy to get the torque that you all say feels pretty good. Doug

Yea, those are the wrong valves for your motor and won't fit.

Yea, long day but here's mine. The left one may be EA 81 exhaust, they have a thicker stem than the EA 82 valve. Doug

Hi, Gloyale was refurring to the Nippon Denso dizzy. On that one if you look inside, parts of it will be blue in color. The end of the coil may even be blue in color. If you look at your coil and it has green dots on it, that's Hitachi. This is an '86 carb Hitachi Distributor. This one has the vac can that is easily adjustable. Screw clockwise for less advance, counter clockwise for more. Hope that makes sense. Doug

Just some thoughts I want to put here. I have bought sandpaper from an ebay seller for a few years now. You pick the grits and quantity of each in whatever size pack you want to buy. I usually buy 25 at a time for about a buck a sheet. I have three different size sanding blocks and I do heads like this as well. Doing it wet with water will save some money vrs doing it dry, as it's easier on the paper. Subaru prints that you can surface these EA 82 blocks up to .016 and gives the warpage/out of square limits at .003. Say you take .015 off the block, with a .040 headgasket, that still leaves .025 piston to head clearance. Anything you take off the block will raise your compression ratio. It also lowers the engines chances of detonation with reduced quench. And FYI, I've been told by people who have tested these things on a dyno, there is nothing to be gained by going tighter than .025 piston to head clearance. This all brings up the question of whether or not the block is square after doing these things. Subaru specs are up to .003 out of square on the deck. This can be measured with the case split...but I've never been far off from perfect, just being consistent in the process. Take most of the meat off with the 80 grit. Now, about that out of square thing. True story. A family member has a Modified Stock pulling truck. You know, the ones they pull sleds with and see who can pull it the furthest. Typically they have $20,000.00 or so engines in them. He bought a new 426 Hemi Chrysler block, stroked and bored it to 471 c.i.d. to fit the class rules. Built by someone who builds these motors for a living. He competed with it and blew a headgasket. Replaced head gasket went out and blew it again. So. They tear it down, new head gaskets strap it to a dyno, $500.00 per session. It was making 650 hp under load and still climbing when it blew another head gasket. :brow:They took it back to the machinist (Fowler Engines in Columbus, Ohio) where it was found the block was .003 out of square. Fixed that and no problems since. Didn't put it back on the dyno with the cost but it turns 7200 rpm under the load of the sled while it usually makes full pulls. Not sure what kind of power it actually makes...enough to win a good percentage of the time. So out of square a bit on one of these shouldn't even be a problem, unless you get it up to 650 hp:D. Doug

Ha, well, JB Weld has it's limits, temperature wise, and I'm not sure where that is. I'm thinking around 300* F it cooks. No worries with interference (even if you don't shave the pistons) as I've checked all those clearances. Here is the last one I did dry and the hardest part is getting the dowels out of the block. PB Blaster, Mapp gas propane torch and vice grips will take them out though, without hurting the block. No cracking and such to worry about like cast iron. It expands faster than the dowels. I took 80 grit to it, then 100, 120, 150, 180, then 220. Just a note, I go straight for the 80 grit first on aluminum, whether it's an intake flange, exhaust flange, or these: This one I did wet with water outside some time ago. Doug

What you could try is take a solid sanding block with 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper on it and go over the whole surface area of that side. Try to be consistant as possible. Hard to tell how deep it is from the pic...and you can do it dry. If it's an EA 82 the pistons have 0 deck height so put them both at TDC as you go and clean them up as well. Then see what you have. I read about it years ago from a Subaru mechanic who did all like that with headgasket jobs, and I've done it with success as well. At this point, it's not going to hurt anything to try. Doug

Hope the EGR work fixes it again. Just some thoughts. Pull a vac on the vac advance can and the carb secondary vac can. They should hold a vac and not bleed off. I've seen several slow leakers that will move, but won't hold a vac. 4.5 mm is the size for a lot of the vac lines on your car and it's worth the effort to get that size. Old or larger tubing may not seal properly. I use a hand held vac pump to check these things and it sure makes things easier. hth Doug

You should have a wire mesh screen filter on it that is cleanable and reuseable. Doug