Quidam

This company lists EA 82 and buckets. Says to call them if what I have isn't listed. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm Doug

Hey, I've been reading this and here's some thoughts. If not primed, how much time? Hummmm.There is the cold tick, the random tick, lick all the time tick, and other ticks. In an EA 82 what gets beat on is the cam lobes. If a lash adjuster is collapsed, that's a nominal .040" clearance it now has. About the same as the spark plug clearance. And yes, that means less lift, less power. Whatever gets into the lash adjuster past the check ball is supposed to leave there past the plunger walls and not back through the ball. There is also a magnetic spring in the chamber past the ball. I've seen/witnessed metal clinging around there. Whatever gets past the checkball causes problems, silicone bits or whatever. And yes, I've witnessed a lot of varnash in them. The kind of stuff I'd preferr to remove in a chem dip. Anyway, good luck. What does a set of rebuilds for this go for? Some of these things, nothing less than a full teardown and cleaning can fix, IMO. Unless they're just too worn. Doug

Hey, Haven't caught up with this thread, but I will, mabie tomorrow. I snapped this today. I've had an Hitachi bolted to it and that's a Weber gasket on there now. Doug

Dyno my rump roast. Drag strip. Quidam

Just what I'm doing today, I have three of thesei 28/32 Hitachis and I spent three hours on this. I went a little too far with the editing of this picture. Everyone needs an editor. "Note to self", ESPECIALLY YOU:) Anyway, this is a fulley functioning adjustable vac secondarry deal. It's not finished, but it works. needs calibrated, spring shortened. IIRC, secondary comes on at 8" vaccum. One of these carbs I'm setting up for E85 Fuel. Thirty percent more volume needed with it. More pics to come. Power valve and such. Doug FYI three shots of Vodika. And I don't drink. Edit You ask that question, you get A story. smile Later on, Doug

Deleted for now:)

A few days ago, it was carb day here, 328 Hitachi. You have the carb kit to buy, (and they're not getting cheaper either) carb cleaner, (I use the $25.00 per gal. chem dip, however, I use that for pistons too), add your time and you've got some $$ in it. What I "think" may happen with some folks rebuilds and failure is the power valve. Have to make sure it works as designed. And enlarge the discharge hole so it doesn't get clogged. I also leave the fine filter screen off the brass seat for the float needle. I've seen some pretty gunked up and mangled ones. I'm pretty sure those fine mesh screens have given some folks fits with fuel delivery. I can buy a new Weber for $200.00 delivered to my door, electric or manual choke. Of course, that's just the carb. Then I bought a genuine Weber base gasket, $10.00. Just some randam thoughts there. Not just anyone can successfully rebuild a carburetor. The Weber is bigger, works well, and it's NEW, as in doesn't need rebuilt. And $320.00 for the kit. That carb I worked on the other day is one I've had for a while. I'll post some pics at some point, I'm in the process of further modification to it. Doug

The end to the right in this pic goes down and serves the same purpose. Doug

Well, what kind of race engine? Mud dragster? Quarter mile at a time you can do a full block fill. Concrete even, if you want. Doug

Hey, Got a pic? If you look over at NASIOC you will find examples of split bores on an open deck block. Or did you use a closed deck? Doug

Possibilities, idle too high and spark advanced too far. Doug

UberScoober, Did you flip that over the fence? Doug

If you compare the new seals with the old seals and measure them in relation as to where the main seal lip is, you may find the new seal has that main seal lip in a slightly different location. Different brands can be slightly different. Doug PS $37.00 plus shipping for both of them from RockAuto.

"Any ideas on what I can do to diagnose and fix this problem? Thanks! " What they said and/or hook up a vaccum gage and tell us what it's doing. Doug

The difference with the wires has to do with the routing. #1 and #3 wires are longer for the Turbo motor. You'd need to be creative with what to do with the excess. Doug

Speedy Sleeve, Redi Sleeve, MicroSleeve, Quick Sleeve. Claim is they're good for 150,000 miles. I've used them, and they eliminate seal problems. Doug

Eh, may be Gary. What I'm wondering is why someone hasn't posted a picture using the bolts for the flexplate/flywheel, a spacer, and some kind of device/plate/bar to press these seals in. I've done that on other makes. Even using the old seal flipped around as the "pusher" on the new seal. Doug

IIRC by the book, XT6 has about 280lbs more clamping force. The XT6 flywheel "step" is shallower than the EA. Which may be how some of that clamping force is acheived. But don't quote me on that. Doug I saw those lens protectors a couple weeks ago, I think he had two sets then.

I'm going to attempt this copy and paste from RockAuto as I've been wondering what the measurements and differences were myself. These are for the OP's year, vehicle, and engine. Note the different shaft size for the Timken. .040" difference than the other two, with an .011" interference fit, seal to bore. TIMKEN Part # 710235 Shaft Size: 3.386"; Housing Bore: 4.055"; Seal Width: 0.394"; Seal Outside Dia: 4.066"; Seal Lip Material: FluoroElastomer; Housing Material: Steel; Max Temp: 400°F; Min Temp: -40°F; Seal Type: 320; Press Fit Viton; Rear $17.68Add Part NATIONAL Part # 710235 Oil Seal; Silicone Seal, Counter-Clockwise-Spiral Design, Shaft Size=3.346", Housing Bore=4.055, Outer Diameter=4.064, Width=0.315" Rear $20.79Add Part SKF Part # 33861 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers2144325000, 2144338010, 5047167AA, 806786010, 806786011, 806786040, MD150161, MD174940, MD359158} Outside diameter=4.0640"; Width=.315"; Shaft=3.346"; Bore=4.055IN Rear (Only 4 Remaining) $24.79Add Part Note the diameter of the seal and the bore size, .009 interference fit seal to bore. OP got me wondering about this again. If going aftermarket a purchaser may have to measure the crank diameter? Here's the link, I read "brown" seal it might be the SKF? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php Doug

It would be best if you ignore me, go ahead do it. I'm done with this thread, and you. Doug

FYI, since I made this last post, my firewall got shut off 4 times. Do what you want, I'm telling it like it is. Doug

Hey, Sounds like you want an adaptor to go in where the large oil pressure sending unit went. If so, I can't help, however some pumps came with a plug to go there. There are other ports on your oil pump that you can use and if the american threads don't fit there this is what you need. STEWART WARNER OIL PRESSURE SENDER ADAPTER NUT PRESSURE ADAPTER BUSHING FOR JAPANESE MADE CARS CONVERTS 1/8" NPTF TO 1/8-28 B.S.P. THREADS APPLICATION: http://www.ebay.com/itm/82554-STEWART-WARNER-JAPANESE-VEHICLE-ADAPTER-NUT-s-/190501391830?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5ac48dd6 I bought 4 of these some time back. hth, Doug

It won't be a problem with the function of the jet. Doug

No, it's not that critical that you remove that, just make sure that all the passages connected to it are free and open. If you have a screwdriver that fits it like a glove, push down on it and give it a bump clockwise. You may feel it give a little bit. You can even try tapping the screwdriver with a small hammer. Then try to turn it counterclockwise. At any point you believe you're distorting the slot in the air bleed stop. good luck! Doug

Don't know what's been said by other person, but the top diameter isn't important. So long as the threads and seating of the new on is the same. More or less holes won't make a difference either for a street car. Twist it out with an extractor if need be. There is an inlet screen/filter on the bottom of the piece still in the carb. They are typically clogged/on their way to clogging. Doug