Quidam

Hey Yo'J, I looked at it at the time and it just didn't register. YBYAHS, You bet your rump roast he's sorry. But I was distracted at the time changing my passwords to bank, paypal,ebay, so on and so forth. For months now on my primary user something has been able to shut down my primary firewall. The first time it happened before I got it restored, my computer was messed up. I got additional security installed, for a price, but it still happened, just not as often. Edrach in this thread long ago recommended logging on as a secondary user without admin priviliges, and I did that. Every now and then I would get a pop up still that my firewall was turned off. When I'd go check it, it would still be on though. After I posted in this thread on a secondary with no admin priviliges I got that pop up of firewall not turned on. I go and check it, and indeed it was shut down. The consequences of that was that my automatic log in on sites was somehow disabled. To USMB, bank, paypal, ebay, so on and so forth. So I was busy changing passwords. Since I made that last post before this one, I've only gotten the "firewall turned off" pop up 1 time. I don't think it would be all that hard for a "card carrying software engineer" to do these things. It's happened before from this site where I back then had to upgrade security. A secondary user without admin priviliges is no foolproof method of dealing with it either. Doug

If you search on recent posts in older generation here, there are pictures and more using factory parts to do it. If you don't have the said parts, a board member may be able to help you out with that. Doug

Hey Mickey, There is nothing wrong with using the cork gasket, sounds like he's trying to convince you to delete it. Subaru didn't give you too much clearance down there for you to leave it out. When it's very cold out the oil will have a harder time getting to the oil pump putting more strain on your oil system. At higher RPM the oil will also have a harder time doing it's thing with the reduced clearance. It's a less than five buck gasket and what you can do is coat the whole thing with Permatex Ultra Black, (suipposed to be the most oil resistant) and bolt it on. If you want to have it reusable, place wax paper on the block put the coated gasket in place, place wax paper between the gasket and pan and screw it down. Wait for it to dry, pull it back off remove the wax paper and you have a very durable reuseable gasket. Keep in mind, any silicone is best if you leave it sit for twenty four hours to cure. hth Doug

It's one heat cycle, then the retorque. 1) Warm up engine. 2) After engine has cooled down, remove right and left valve rocker covers. 3) Loosen intake manifold mounting bolts next to cylinders No. 1 and No.3 by 60*. Do not loosen the manifold mounting bolts next to cylinders No. 2 and No. 4. Do not loosen the mounting bolts more than 90*, or water may leak. 4) Loosen bolt at position 1 in figure, and apply oil to the thread. (This means loosen the #1 bolt in torque sequence, then apply oil with a squirt can to the top of the bolt/washer area, goal is to make sure the washer/bolt has oil under it) Repeat "loosen and tighten" operation four to five times within the 60* range for a better fit, then tighten bolt to the specified torque. 5) Similarly, retighten each bolt in sequence from 2 to 9 as shown in figure. Finally,tighten bolt 1 to the specified torque without loosening. 6) After tightening right and left cylinder head bolts, tighten mounting bolts of intake manifolds. It's not hard or as complicated as it may sound written down. Doug

Yes, the automatic with dual core would be thicker. They also came with the "short" water pump, not a different mounting for the AC stuff. If the radiators are listed for fitting all, it "probably" means they come with provisions for a transmission cooler, whether you use them or not. Plastic shouldn't necessarilly be avoided, but If boost gets into the cooling system, they will fail before a copper/brass unit does. As in, it blows the end tanks apart and or off. Plastic/Aluminum are less expensive materials than Copper/Brass. Copper/Brass much easier to repair should you need to. Yes, that's the Spectra part #, don't have a factory part number for you. However, from the FSM for the 1987 DL/Gl/RX/GL-10 and the 1990 XT and XT6. The 1987 Non Turbo and Turbo MT, and 1990 XT6 radiators measure: 25.39" Long X 12.68" Tall X 0.63" thick. The turbo AT same dimimensions but 1.26" thick. 26.38" Long X 13.07" Tall X 0.63" thick for The 1990 XT. Hope that makes sense and remember that there are two different water pumps with different lengths. If someone else knows that the AC condensor and radiator were mounted foreward, please post it. Doug

Hey, Do you have a source for new/used studs you'd like to share? Doug

Tycho posted this some time ago: "Years ago on the ENDYN forums (or it could have been SpeedTalk) there was a FelPro engineer talking about the PermaTorque gaskets. He noted that while they do not require a re-torque, doing an overnight cold re-torque (much easier than a hot one) will increase gasket compression from 90% to over 95%. Definitely worth the small amount of extra effort, and still way easier than a hot re-torque." And I believe that "from over 90% to over 95%" translates actually into "from over 90% to 99 or 100%" Do not overtorque your head bolts because if you do you're distorting the cylinder bores. I can prove it. What do you think an engine rebuilder/remanufacturer does when they send an EA 82 out the door with NO instructions to retorque the headgaskets? Or a new longblock from Subaru? I'd lay money on them torquing, wait, torquing, and possibly even do it again. That will get you there no hot retorque needed. Just give it time. With Genuine Subaru gaskets, close as I can tell they compress slightly less than .001 on the first torque. Even when I use the Permatorque, I torque, wait 24 hours, and do it again. They have a teflon coating on them and it's an attractave sales pitch, and it does indeed help and you may never have a problem. But if you cold retorque, The job may very well last longer. If you don't care, well, then there is that. Tear it up. I'm doing an EA 82T right now with torque and wait, then again torque and wait. The third time I'm unbolting the heads, spraying the gaskets with copper coat, then the final torque. I don't anticipate any headgasket problems even with high boost. If you torque and wait 24 hours, then retorque with any gasket out there made for these motors, I don't believe the average Subaru will ever have any problem with those gaskets. And for sure, as has been said, clean the bolt threads and the threads in the block untill they're spotless. Lightly oil and go at it. Or not. Your call, your motor. Doug

This much I can tell you about it. The SPFI pistons will sit about .040 closer to the head. This reduced quench makes the motor less prone to detonation. There is quite a bit of difference in piston weight between the two, SPFI being lighter. Can't help but to rev quicker. hth, even tho I've never done it. Doug

While I was looking through my 1990 Loyale FSM it lists the automatic EA 82T as coming from the factory with a dual core. The standard trans unit, as not. Check rock auto and compair. Doug SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU1099 Choose: [Private Label Package] (Only 3 Remaining) ($177.79) -[Regular Inventory] (Only 2 Remaining) ($214.79) -- Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day$177.79

Hey Mickey, Here's my advise, O2, which is worth about .06 in copper pennies:) Torque the heads on. Wait 24 hours. Back them all off, and retorque. If you can do that you'll have it within a few percentage points of a torque the heads, run it, then retorque after the hot run. So, torque them on. Let sit 24 hrs. Retorque. Doug

If your VF core is solid, (no cracks at all in the wastegate) rebuild kits are about $60.00 U.S. Of course the labor would add to that. I saw a VF recently on eBay advertised excellent condition, NO SHAFT PLAY. $125.00. A board member here has two up for sale. Whatever you decide, I'd insure I had no cracks and NO play in the wheels. Otherwise, it's a rebuilder. Doug

I'm going to have to think about this:). And sell some more stuff:) Doug

Being this is the "B" motor, I'll make compromises with what I actually want. I'm giving up being able to control the timing to each individual cylinder with this ACCEL system. If I have to give up the ability to control the fueling to each individual cylinder due to cost, I'll do it. What I want is a knock sensor on each individual cylinder. Wide band is a little pricey, but I don't want to give that up. What I'll end up doing though, is probably tuning it for the # 3 cylinder to stay healthy. It's got the intake ports that are different and is farthest away from the water pump. I was shocked to tear down a relatively low mileage motor to find the #3 cylinder wall with a small split in it. The ports have differences, run at different temps...and some other stuff. But I'm not going to have what I want with the B motor, and I can't get the most hp/torque out of it that's possible. This will be a daily driver/learning experience. With the proper high octane fuel, I'm confident that with individual cylinder knock sensor, individualized fueling and spark timing, keeping it out of knock/detonation, too lean or too rich, so on and so forth, I can literally push the motor to structural failure...(from the amount of power being made alone, whereever that is) The only way to find out where that point is, is to remove those typical reasons for failure. Then, it's simply a matter of how good a "Tooner" you are. I believe the rods would be the first weak link, and I can't justify putting even the "B" motor back together without new rod bolts, so that will be done. I've turned this block 7200 rpm under load many times, so I have the confidence there it's basically solid. I'm not sure if the valve springs give up at that point or it's an issue with the HLA's. Anyway, if I don't respond here in the next few days or whatever, I'll be where I don't have internet access. Doug

I've used a propane before, just on the aluminum. It doesn't take much to expand it a little. Doug

This ACCEL system only works with a distributor. What I'll need is an inexpensive crank trigger and wheel. I think the MSD kit is like three hundred bucks. Shouldn't be too hard to find one. I'll need to buy a 2 Bar MAP sensor for this. ACCEL is a litter higher and really, about any of them will work with this. With the 300+ crank triggerd timing is fixed, but with the 375+ added, I have a start retard. The hand heald input device I can just use that for a digital tach, vacuum/boost gauge leaving it hooked up. I can select the boost timing retard value, reason for the MAP, up to 4* per PSI of boost. Rev limiters all I want, activate nitrous, Stage RPM limiter, fixed or hight speed retard value, signal retard fore any gear....on and on. Doug

Megaspuirt, I was looking around at standalone EFI today. On the next motor I plan to run the EDIS. I can use the ACCEL system I have with a crank trigger wheel, or the magnetic pickup, in the distributor. If I bolt on the wheel, all the distributor does is distribute the spark. I looked at this system good today, put it together, labeled wiring, and it will work good and is very tuneable. I'm going to mount the second turbo to the front of the motor this go around. What I'll need, is the standalone EFI that incorporates the knock sensor, and preferabally adjustable fueling to each cylinder. I've been crusing ebay for used cheap. I didn't make it to the Megasquirt site today, but that's on my mind if they have a EFI that fits. Then again, this ACCEL stuf I got at steep discount because their newer stuff is comming out. I think it's possible to score a good used unit. We'll see. Relatively inexpensive is still the driver. Doug

Oh see, if I take the check ball out of the HLA it collapses. I could just throw a shim under it now and run it that way. Yea, lol, I can think of a few ways to do these. When I take that check ball out, and the bottom spring, then measure the clearance between the valve rocker and the cam lobe while it's on the base circle, It's .040" clearance. That's all the lash that's adjusted by the HLA. Oh, let me clear that up. I'm still going to O ring the cam box where it interfaces the head. Just remove the valve cover gasket, that O ring, possibly fill the channel where it sits solid with epoxy, then put it back on without the gasket. Mabie dowl pin it, weld it, I'm not sure, but I plan to do something like that with it. Yea, the girder, when I get back to it, something like that possibly, except I was planning on using aircraft aluminum. Keep those thoughts comming, I'll consider anything. Doug

Hi, Good description, and yes, anticlockwise it screws out. Try penetrating oil or throw some heat on the carb body. First one of these I did, I selected some of my screwdrivers and custom ground them to fit all the various screw slots. Like the power valve, and the one you're working on. Often times, a tight precise fitting screwdriver and just bearing down on it and turning may pop it out. Without destroying anything. On the other hand, I've had a few where I dribbled some weak acid solution around them to get then loose. Let us know how it goes. Doug

Hi, I don't see it as a hijack at all. That carb could very well be a problem with being worn, not properly rebuilt, so on and so forth. But even if the OP took the carb off, poured fuel down the manifold, (I'm not suggesting the OP do this as you take fire risks, etc.) and cranked it, it still should fire and try to start. Just thinking we don't even know if the carb is feedback with all that goes with that, or just a regular type carb with some emission stuff on it. So we need that info too. Doug

"So, I believe that the culprit on your subie is a mix of Clogged Exhaust and Dying Carb... " Well, that exhaust would be worth checking. However, he did say it wouldn't even start with starting fluid. If he heald the throttle open, poured some gas down it, it should at least fire. How many miles on the car that won't start? JesZek, did your Hitachi have 300,000 miles on it? Doug

Hey Russ, Can I call you Russ? Well, I'll appreciate any input when I go to sort this out. Dual MAF I don't know much about, and yea the piping amount will be a consideration, for sure. The single blow through MAF, I read tuners that aren't very fond of it because of if you have air leaks before the MAF, things can go south without you knowing beforehand. The cam cases, the gasket/o ring is on a Subaru for the acoustics/sound transmission. I was thinking of making it structural, eliminating the gasket. And I've got some other theoretical stuff to do with them as well, but anyone is welcome to jump in with thoughts. Hell, I don't know everything, and I might learn something. Doug

Hey Steve, Heh, that makes the lash adjuster a spring loaded pivot, and me the lash adjuster. Just don't start calling me Lifter:). Yea, engine management is still up in the air. This is the B engine and low cost is still a driver. I do still have the optical and magnetic systems... complete parts cars if I do need any of it on this one. But I've been distracted from anything automotive of late and right now, It's still pretty fuzzy in that department. However, I do have this on hand as well. ACCEL 49300 Ignition Box, 300+, Digital, Capacitive Discharge, Universal CD Voltage Output to Coil500 CircuitryDigital Coil IncludedNo Current Draw0.8-1.0 amps per 1,000 rpm Data AcquisitionNo Height (in)2.000 in. Ignition Box ColorBlack Ignition Box OutputCapacitive discharge Length (in)4.250 in. Maximum Operating Voltage18 Minimum Operating Voltage8 QuantitySold individually. Rev LimiterYes Spark Output (millijoules)125 Timing RetardNone WarrantyOne-year warranty Width (in)3.125 in. And this: Accel 49375 375 + Ignition Amp Box The 375+ features a unique design that incorporates a compact control unit that can be mounted out of sight inside the car with a remote display/ input unit close at hand for real-time programming or monitioring. The 375+ Accessory control harness lugs directly into the 300+ box, allowing the custom software and dual RISC microprocessors to fully interface with each other. Features: Two stages of sequential rev limiting control from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, in 100 RPM increments Window RPM switch from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, 100 RPM increments Fixed nitrous oxide or high-speed timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments Start timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments, beginning at 100 RPM, dialing out at 500 RPM Proportional boost timing retard from 0.1 to 4.0 degrees per PSI of boost in 0.1-degree increments (Requires the use of a MAP sensor) Selectable to read either 2 or 3 BAR MAP Sensor signals Tachometer display mode with 10 RPM resolutions and moving point-averaging software for clear resolution Real time manifold pressure display mode displays vacuum in inches of Hg and boost in PSI (Requires the use of a MAP sensor) .Ignition Coil - E-Core - Super Coil - 48000V - Black / YellowProduct # 140009 For high-performance use with both breakerless electronic and ACCEL CD type ignition systems. Heavy gauge windings and E-core design maximize energy and voltage output. And for a while now I've been reading "Proven Power Bragging" over on NASIOC, it's been very informative. See, I have worked professionally (In a shop and got paid for it) as a mechanic for about 7 years, then I got out of it. And I've never built a turbo car, so yea, those things I'll definately have some questions and would like to hear thoughts, ideas, and opinions. But once I start turning wrenches again is when I can really concentrate on it all. Doug

Hi, When was the last time you heard the motor run? With the plug wires being "fairly" new and the readings you're seeing, those are high resistance wires, sounds like. It's possible to buy new wires and have them near the upper Subaru recommended limits for resistance, I've measured a few sets. Being the longest, #1 then #3 would have the most. So yea, when did it last run, and what happened. Doug

Well, I hear you and it's true, where there's a will, there is a way. If you're serious, have the means, and that's what you want don't let anyone stop you. And if you do, I'd appreciate reports of your progress. Critics are EVERYHERE, people who don't have a clue about the motivation that drives other people, what makes them happy and why. And it's also true a lot of times that, "Those that can do, those that can't teach." Doug Above is a ready to run crate motor LS1 and it's a relativly mild LS. Torque and HP come easy with mods. 409 lbs. minus ecu and wiring harness. Displacement: 346 (5.7L) Horsepower: 350 @ 5800 Rpm Torque: 365 @ 4000 Rpm

The pulley in the pic will have an extra hole drilled in it for a dowel/roll pin to insure it stays put so the timing marks won't change. Doug