Quidam

Hi, I don't understand that post or where that came from. I do know from posting here that my computer has been under attack several times. Upgraded security...after I made the posts in this thread my firewall got shut down, I turned it back on but not before my passwords to sites were screwed up. And there's more, but that crap has been going on since I made another post in another thread some time ago. I'm pretty sure it comes from someone here. And you probably know who I would suspect, or one of there groupies. Doug

Time to do an update and I still haven't done any actual work on it since the 1st. I've thought about it of course and I'll get back to wrenching later this month. I didn't start a build thread on this but here it is. I didn't start one because no matter what I tell you I wanna do and when I'm going to do it may not happen. And I typed a time line but in fact, that was some more wanna do stuff. In fact it will happen when it happens, if it happens. After all, I don't know the future. But I do have all these parts. What this particular motor is: Used parts I've collected over time, sorting out the good from the bad, parts cars bought fairly inexpensivly. NOS bought the same way, gaskets, rings $32.00, pistons $50.00, valves, an uncracked ebay head bare for $60.00, $100.00 and shipping for the intake manifold, those type of purchases. I haven't bought a single part from the Subaru dealers. Rock Auto, eBay, board members, that sort of thing. What I have in it is time, doing something I enjoy. Oh yea, of course things like carbide bits for porting, tootsie rools, sandpaper, sealants, paint, all the usual stuff. And some shop fees. And it all does add up, of course. But this isn't a mega bucks deal. What I decided to do was on this motor, use both VF turbos that I have, and it's probably not what you're thinking. I'm going to leave the distributor in where it is. I bought ACCEL Race Wires, 25ohm per ft. resistance. I actually got a good deal (60% off store price) on ebay for a set for the 429 C.I. Ford motor wires, and can make two Subaru sets from them. Sleeves, silicone, and fat, angled boots which will help me out with clearance issues on 1 and 4. If you take the part of the exhaust header/up pipe and turbo seen in the picture, unbolt it from the passenger side and bolt it onto the drivers side head, you have the turbo mounted to the drivers side, on the front of the motor. I assure you it fits and will work that way:). So yea, one turbo for each side per 2 cylinders. I didn't take any pictures before I tooki it apart but the only thing in the way is that flange that sticks out for bolting...something on to it. I can cut that off, as it interferes with the drivers side cam sprocket. Oh, seeing how this manifold was constructed, If I were to fabricate another, I'd use oval tubing, and I've sourced that actually if I want it. Extruded, elbows too. Give better clearance on the two cylinders and you could go bigger I.D. As you know, the water and oil can be easily had from the drivers side head, same as the passenger side. The lash adjusters, I have .040 clearance between the cam lobe and rocker. All that needs to be done is remove the check ball in the bottom of the HLA, leaving the spring in the very bottom of them, as it spring loads the LA against the rocker arm. What I'm not sure about is how much clearance to run with solids and a turbo, but I expect it needs to be generous. So say a nominal .030 thick, X 14mm diameter drop in shim inside the lash adjuster will do. Here's how it's done on a Ford 2300 four cylinder for reference. I won't know if the HLA thing works out until I run it of course, but one of the reasons I want to do it is to restrict the amount of oil up into the cam case. I also plan (wanna) to put an oil pressure fitting on the cam case or head so I can see the actual oil pressure at that point, as I'll see how thin a synthetic I can run and still have decent pressure to the cams. The one on the oil pump gives a reading on the discharge pressure but tells me nothing about how much is leaking past the bearings. So things to do with this setup, wide band O2 after the two down pipes are connected. A single MAF? and bigger throttle body from somewhere. Single or dual intercooler? I've got two new fuel pumps, not positive they'll work out tho. We'll see, but I may fire it up on high test pump gas, tho I really want to run E 85. I've been reading the E 85 ARMY thread over at NASIOC and this being the "beginning" of the mid west, it's available here. Corn grows all around me in the summer. Doug

Not that it matters but I don't think the LS was out in 96. Could be wrong about that.

Yea, and new stock pistons aren't that expensive either. Doug

How much do you pay for that these days? Last set I had done was a long time ago at NAPA for a six cylinder International. It didn't cost that much, and It's never crossed my mind for a Subaru. Doug

Hey Nipper, We'll just have to agree to disagree on that one. Back when they called them tappets, mechanical lifters and such, a dude made them hydraulic then called them hydraulic lifters. Lifters, as in shop lifters, weight lifters, in the mechanical sense, "something that lifts". Well, it lifted the push rod, so that's what they called it. And lifters are only on over head valve engines. I remember as a child, some folks still insisted on calling these lifters tappets. Some people are like that, you know? But then, they could have called them hydraulic lash adjusting lifters, but they didn't. Then over head cams came along and they eliminated lifters but still used the hydraulic lash adjusting part of it, so that's what they called them. That's all they do, sit there and don't lift a dam thing. I frequent another Subaru board and the groups I read, I can't recall anybody ever calling them lifters. But it's new gen and mostly builders, mechanics, and customers. What gets me is when someone comes into this group and says he has a Brat and his lifters are noisy, has questions about the oil pump and I spend my time looking, post a pic even... And then he says, oh, I have an EA 82T in it, sorry. YBYAHS:) I get frustrated with it, and certain people here seem to enjoy confusing people who don't know the difference, or something. I say motor and engine too, btw. But they're not lifters and "I" know what people mean, but others don't know and it's just confusion, when it doesn't have to be. Things of this nature have there name for a reason. Doug

"What does the lash adjuster do, in what way does it push up against the rocker?" The plunger spring, far left, pushes up on the check ball retainer and plunger, consequently pushing up on the actual lash adjuster, (the top piece) and takes the slack out. FYI, The check ball spring is a magnet and is attracted to the retainer and ball, they stick together to keep the check ball on track. When oil under pressure enters the low pressure chamber (the area inside the two top right pieces) through the body and the holes in the lash adjuster, the plunger spring is pushing up and the oil is pushed past the check ball into the high pressure chamber below the plunger, making the lash adjustment The higher pressure in the very bottom can only escape past the clearance between the body and the plunger if it's all working as designed. Hope that makes sense, and if "someone" allready answered your question, I apologize in advance. I don't read him anymore except for bits and pieces. Doug

Hey, To sum this up, what you want to do is remove the clutch fan from the water pump, it's for the AC. If you take the nuts off it comes right off and you just put the nuts/washers back on the studs. Or you can take the studs out and use bolts. It's a 6mmX1.0 thread and common bolts that work there are all over your car. Oil pan, cam sprockets, the bolts you remove taking the AC parts and lines out of your engine compartment, etc. even the fender bolts are the same thread. I've done this many times and never needed more than the stock electric fan, and if your car came without AC, the electric fan is all it came with. And it's attatched to the radiator, not the AC parts in any way. Pull the radiator out to get the AC condensor out from in front of it. And yea, it's not only weight you're losing but parasitic drag on the motor too from the belts/pulleys/compressor/fan clutch. hth Doug

It's common for the cam seals to be rock hard from age and heat. And no, new cam seals won't cause the cranik seals to go out. If it's not burning it, you need a reseal. Doug

I knew a guy who shoehorned a cast iron SBC into an Opel Kadett. It was a handfull to drive, that's for sure. If you started with an LS series small block you have aluminum block, heads, plastic intake, and even a factory dry sump can be had to set the motor low in the chassis. 500 hp stock, you want the LS7, it's even got TI connecting rods and valves to help you out with the weight. But it would only be two wheel drive. :Flame:You're a crazy man, OP.

This is one version where I removed the AC and got a new belt.

Here's a Loyale I converted, three brackets. Doug

Yea, it's got "that" look, doesn't it?

Hey, That center vac port most likely goes to "slots" above the throttle shaft, and having it hooked up to the distributor like it was, would give the correct vac source just like the original bottom vac source. So you're good to go there, either way you hook it up. Doug

Yes I do, the pipe has a rubber hose on each end of course one end to the distributor, and the other goes to that bottom metal vaccum line out the front of the carb. Yes, it should run well with even the vac. canister bad, but you just don't have vaccum advance. (Edit and you have a vaccum leak, may be your problem) However it will perform better with a new vaccum can. The advance mechinism inside the distributor may be a little gummed up and sticking, or harder to move than when it was new. But I can't see how that would cause the other problem. Hose hooked to the top nipple is a vent. If you mean the vac hose was hooked to the vaccum port center left of the carb, that one goes to manifold vaccum, and you had a vaccum leak with the diaphram busted. I'll have to think about that though, need to run shortly. hth Doug Gotta go, hope that makes sense:)

This wasn't based on "feelings", and I did/do have usefull information. There are cars now that come without a gasket, and I assure you the engineers have taken this into considration and given what they think the motor needs for oil pickup tube to oil pan clearance. GD and others have taken up replacing a .070" oil pan gasket with anerobic/silicone. I don't believe he thought this through as to what happens when it's freezing out and the oil is really thick, or what happens at high RPM. Consider the "Discharge performance" of your oil pump. At "5000 rpm, 167-185*" you're looking at 8.2 gal/minute flow. That's from the FSM and if you wind your car up under load to 6500 rpm, which any EA 82 will do that I've known of, it's even more. At idle it's flowing 0.5 gal/min. Now consider oil pans can and do get damaged. Someone throws a block of wood on top the jack and even lifts the engine that way, I assure you they're going to close the gap up some as well. I've taken multiple measurements on two different oil pans and here is what that looks like. I can post more. One stock pan I didn't know was damaged until I looked closely at it. Thinking back, it was a three inch diameter black walnut limb that got jammed up there and I did have the factory skid plate on it. That's the pan on the left. Without gasket in the rear measured .280", front measured .370", passenger side .300", and drivers side .400". Now the drivers side has that clearance near the front corner and if you look closely at the pans you have you'll see they're designed a certain way. From looking at the pans closely I'm pretty sure the oil spirals up into the pickup tube. The pan on the right was damaged too, it doesn't take much to close the gap up some. I hammered it out and actually stretched it some. Oh, the baffles are removed from it and I took a wooden mallett chucked up in the vise and slammed the pan against it. Anyway, with those baffles in, it's kind of tough to straighten one of these out, but it can be done, of course. Without the gasket this pan measures .340" rear, .420" front, .350 passenger side, .460" drivers side. Of course add .070" to all those figures with the gasket. If you think Subaru gave you too much clearance there, go ahead and leave the gasket out. How cold is your oil right now and do you think it has an easy time getting sucked up into the tube? Consider for a performance Subaru, you should have 5/8" to 3/4" clearance pan to pickup. Lots more to this but, your call. I know a professional shop wouldn't dare leave it out and risk the liability "should" something go wrong. But worse, he's still advising other people here to do it. His strong suit isn't engines, not long ago he was advising people to overtorque head bolts and distort the bore. But it's clear to me he wasn't trained for it. And I am being nice, to say the least. Things like telling people a Frankenmotor will put out 180/200 hp. I could go on. Doug

Bump. If you get your hands on some FA or FB engines, please post them up. Thanks. Doug

Hey there, I was refering to the climate, like the rust on the accelerator pump screw and such. And thermal expansion. That lower vaccum plugged line goes to the distributor. Doug

The rust thing, relativily low mileage, happens moreso when the engine is at operating temp, throttle cable not sticking... Just a thought, remove the carb from the intake and spray it all down with lubricant. Then work it, lots of linkage for choke and throttle, may be the throttle shafts sticking in the bores..."when hot". Just lube and work it and see if it all frees up for you. Or not:) hth Doug

I'm curious, did you get to the cause on your dad's car eating belts? With the oil pressure and symptoms you described, it may have been that the cam was seizing up in the cam case due to lack of lubrication, or I've read about broken/seized camshafts every once in a while with the EA 82. If you have one with the belts off, try loosening a randam bolt or two on the cam case. I've done this and found that the camshaft can and will seize up under those conditions too. Doug

Another option on the two heater hoses from engine to firewall is just use regular heater hose. As Miles said, factory is formed but the other is much cheaper and works fine, just don't cut them short. The 90* water pump hose is really kind of generic. A Ford or whatever hose of that shape and size is easily found at any parts store. There is a little coolant hose thermostat to block and NAPA carries the correct size on a spool. It's small for a coolant hose. Doug

Jeez Louise. Another off topic post. You think at this point the OP is thinking about ANY swap? So why disrupt HIS thread with your OFF TOPIC posts? Did you actually offer him anything constructive to getting it home? No. Worthless post right there, so why did you waste everyones time? I want to know. Sincerely, Doug

This "Originally Posted by Durania Sounds like you have some disposable income. You would be a 1000x better off buying a first gen Legacy and have something that has a motor that blows the EA82T out of the water and could maybe be somewhat reliable." And other off topic posts is why I blocked him a few days ago. They just can't resist with childish behavior. And then, look who pops up. Doug

No, I'm not. The USA is a large country and those attatudes about these cars are put out primarily from the West/Pacific North West. Fact is, other folks just drive them and enjoy them for what they are. Doug