Quidam

"There are a few things Id like to do with your .02... That I shall not mention..." I think you should spit it out. I'll get back to this now that I have the time. Doug Edit: That quote/threat was posted by rugby subaru. My computer was hacked in the last week, money spent and damage done. He works for a "card carrying software engineer" BTW.

Hey, LH means the drivers side? Subaru calls it a camshaft carrier, what came to my mind was cam case. Anyway, where do you live? Someone local might have one. I disgarded one of those last week, someone had overtightened and cracked it around two bolt holes. Doug

I want to know what you know when you know it:) The carb pistons have more piston to head (quench) clearance than the SPFI pistons. That means more compression and less apt to ping/detonate with the SPFI pistons. I've got one going together now and am putting the SPFI pistons in it. (the carb block) Doug PS I've got to run it down some more, but there may be another piston that fits as well. In thory anyway.

Yea, Delta is the ONLY source for regrind/aftermarket cams for these cars that I know of. However, keep in mind that the MPFI XT cams are 256* duration, compared to 244* duration for the SPFI cams. I'd take an educated guess that they can grind more duration into the XT cams tho. Same lift on both as far as I know. About .396. Doug

Hey, I have an 87 carbed wagon from Colorado that I removed the "high altitude kit" from. That's what you need if you attempt it with the Hitachi. High Altitude Kit hth Doug If you search ebay for "Subaru High Altitude Kit" you'll find this. And no, I'm not suggesting you buy it, just FYI. Doug

This is an Hitachi "small rotor" 2 wire electronic distributor. I found an adjustment screw for the vaccum can. I screwed it in 9 turns and that "locked" the advance... I believe the Hitachi and ND vac cans may be interchangeable. I have an 87 carbed wagon that pings when put under part throttle load on regular fuel. To fix that, I'd just turn the vac can screw in a turn, and see what happened. Or a half turn. Then test it out, go another half turn or whatever until the ping is silenced. Web moving slow, more later. Doug

Hey Dirk, This is a Hitachi distributor from a 1986 EA-82T. I don't have any points type Subaru distributors, and I'm assuming you're working with an Hitachi? It's possible the "15.5 A" means that's what's built into this one for mechanical advance. With 20* initial, 35.5* would be about right. On this distributor the lower right spring is the main mechanical advance spring. I realize you may know this by now. The upper left doesn't come into play until the end of the advance curve and actually acts like a "brake"...soft landing for it all, and the last few degrees of advance. I've got Hitachi 2 wire "small rotor", Hitachi small rotor 4 wire (electronic spark control), Nippon Denso 2 wire electronic, and Hitachi "large rotor" 2 wire. I'm sorting through them. This is the Hitachi 4 wire small rotor and the vaccum advance cannister can be modified easily. I'll take some pics. Doug

"Bring on the SNOW!! :burnout:" (grins) All the leaves are brown (Pin Oak) And the sky is gray (It's snowing) I go for a drive (Subaru) On a winters day The Preacher likes to talk She thinks I'm gonna stay California dreaming On such a winters day I stopped into a church I pass along the way There I got down on my knees And I began to pray You know that woman likes to talk She finally goes away And I'd be safe and warm If I was in L.A. California dreaming (ducks)

I'd have a new cylinder liner/sleeve installed. But that's me. All the rest of the guts are good? JB Weld the hole:) I mean, after the sleeve is put in. Yea, what to do? Doug

Well, wrap this phase up. I drilled a hole 180 degrees from the factory pin. Top pin sticks in the crank gear, lower sticks in the harmonic damper pulley. Which are 90 degrees from the other factory pin and crank keys. Needs to be rock solid for the hp and crank trigger. It's at TDC and the passenger side cam is 8 degrees advanced. I don't anticipate using that much, but I'd expect increased cranking compression there. So boiled down, 5 easy pieces. Bolt, washer, two pins, and the harmonic damper pulley.

My 87 GL 10 in transition. I need to reseal a motor for it, 2 axel boots, and buy 10 lug nuts, somewhere. Window, shifter bushings. Her makeup:) Four tires, probably 195/60 range.

Was the short block sold as is? Doug

Well, I can assure you that GD doesn't have a clue as to the forces at work here. Take a look. I have measured it all up and as you can see, the suction and abrasion is enough to suck the finish right off the oil pan. Did he replace the o ring on the oil pickup tube? NM. It will have more suction on it now. Sincerely, Doug I suggest you stop payment.

"as would seem obvious from the how clean the engine is underneath - not a leak to be found anywhere. You can thank Anearobic flange sealant technology for that miracle on the EA engines . No more cork for you!" What he's saying is, he used that on the oil pan and closed the clearance up oil pan to pickup tube, increasing the stress on the oil system. Your water pump has no gasket? Your pulleys may not be aligned now. Miricle my rump roast. Doug

Well, that's certainly good news! Over in Athens here. Doug

Loyale SPFI intake=244* duration with intake and exhaust timing different. Opening and closing points. XT MPFI Intake----=256* duration with intake and exhaust timing the same. MPFI Turbo---------=250* duration Lift all the same. Unless I slipped a gear somewhere. hth Doug FYI, the XT-6 same year got 252* intake and 256* exhaust duration. Lift in the same ballpark as EA-82.

"and will be a joy to hear about it thrashing on Corvettes that cost 2x as much." Uh, have you driven a C 5 up Corvette? I didn't think so. Doug

Hi, Those filters look interesting and thanks for the report! FYI, a dual core radiator is still available for your car. Your original motor was badly worn I take it, and I read where the original cam cases were put on your new motor. Save the "new" cam cases, you may need them. hth Doug

Here's how I left things, hole in crank pulley at TDC. There's another hole 180 degrees around, and pulley set goes on a SPFI car. It has a "dowel"? pin installed, but not drilled for a roll pin. I'll be using the short B/A and long PARAUT cast iron impeller pumps on these motors. The GMB is sheetmetal and less expensive. Not a single reason I want to use it on this. Genuine Subaru water pump gasket and I've done some casting flash removal. The same pulley and color coded valvesprings. I overdid the paint thing, but I need to know what set they're from and there are a few groups of them around. NTW Beck/Arnley cast pump right. So yea, crank trigger which one and how to mounnt it all, but that can wait for now. I guess it's an EA 82TT Turbo-Traction Sedan. No such animal from Subaru.

Here's a E 81 N/A piston installed in E 82 #4 cylinder. The -.036" is how far down in the bore it sits.

The tach thing is probably something going on. Can you see/smell fuel if you "pump" the throtle lever, before you add starting fluid? Can you see a shot of fuel from the accelerator pump? Once you pump it a few times, can you see fuel vapor comming out the top of the carb? Doug

Hi, The FelPro "blue" coating is actually a form of Teflon, IIRC. Sorry to hear about your purchase. "These gaskets might be as good as oem, maybe even oem gaskets packaged with the felpro name, but I'm probably just going to stick to buying them from the dealer from now on!" That's certainly understandable and you won't go wrong using Genuine Subaru. For someone willing to sort it all out as to what's what tho, "Genuine Subaru" from a dealer isn't required all the time.

If you're running 10% alcohol fuel, that's a factor. Your jets were calibrated for different gasoline then you can buy today. So, it's probably lean. Doug

What I'd like to use is Fluidamper. "A" motor perhaps. Is that what these pulleys are, XT? I have the alt that goes with them and the pulley. These were abused tho, kind of rough around the edges. I'd like to run them tho because of the ribbed belt drive. I've got balancers...carb with no pins whatsoever. SPFI with hole for pin and it was in there when I got it. I don't want to run without one really, insurance. I've got two turbo balancers on cars, going to pull the best one, and it's a beauty! Need to pull 4 turbo cam cases as a SPFI cam is in the motor right now. Piston stop needs ordered. Installed an E 81 N/A piston in #4 cylinder today, sits .036 down in the cylinder. Excessive quench with that, unless the block were decked and the pistons flycut for the valves. Or a very thin gasket. Balancers, turbo is heavy and needs to be. Doug

I'm planning crank trigger and I have 4 balancers that would be suitable for use. So the wheel will go there. I keep thinking MSD 7 but that could be wrong. Roll pin is TDC #1 cylinder. Anyone who would just throw some type of sealer on one of these pumps don't know what they're doing. The Genuine Subaru gasket being the hands down winner here. Tho not "required". At any rate, this type of motor I permatex #2 the gasket to the pump with an anti stick coat towards the block. Removal and replacement drama free.