Quidam

All right, here's what I've got. .4325 lift at #1 exhaust valve. Dial stedy and repeatable. Gutted HLA body and shimmed tighter than I'd ever run it. Refinished valve rockers, #1 piston looks something like the one below and I've rotated it for piston to valve clearance. Some reflections and FYI, as I just got this far with it after setting it up last night. What I've got is just two samples on two cam lobes, anecdotal. A new gutted HLA body is set on #1 intake valve with refinished valve rocker and checker spring with no shims. A quick check with the dial indicated .407 lift and keep in mind Subaru states if you press a primed HLA and it plunges more than .020, replace it...or fix it. In the neighborhood of .070 can be added to the cam lobe and still fit in the stock cam carrier, X rocker ratio. In theory, .500 lift or thereabouts should be possible with a custom cam. Nothing set in "special chilled cast iron" though. Doug

It's stripped to the shortblock and quench (piston to head) is in the neighborhood of .062 for SPFI piston, .043 for the 7.7 turbo piston. Lowest I want with this combo is about .035 so basically let the chips fall where they may on that. Hey Tex, I don't ever do utube on 56K dialup. I'll take your word for it. It might take two hours to watch a 3 minute vid, seriously. Doug

"Ooooh baby I love your way, everyday. I wanna tell you I love your way, everyway. I wanna be with you night and day!" Playin on the radio. "I LOVE MY SUBARU.:D" But then, NM. Doug

Ha:) I've got a set of 50 spoke chrome wires, 6 lug converted to 4, 13" X 7" wheels, that would look good on that. They came off a fast but rusted into Nissan that had, "the look". Doug

I like that color on those. Nice score. Doug

I need a USMB restraining order. Sincerely, Doug

The heads...I have a PDF and people have done a lot of talking about them. I have used that aren't cracked, and I can fix a NOS head so it probably won't crack. Unless it's overheated and old Subaru is one of the most overheated engines on the planet, IMO. Cylinder Head Cracks On 1985-92 Subaru 1.8L OHC & OHV Engines AERA members have reported cracked cylinder heads on 1985-92 Subaru 1.8L OHC and OHV engines. These cracks occur in the combustion chamber of the head between the valve seat inserts (see illustration). The cause of these cracks is usually related to an overheated engine. It has been determined by Subaru that this crack does not leak coolant into the chamber and the cylinder heads should not be replaced. Extensive testing indicates that under pressure testing, the heads do not leak unless the cracks are termed extensive Pressure testing is still advised to assure your customer of the heads integrity. Checking both valve seats for looseness is also necessary as insufficient press fit may allow the seat to move during engine operation. A modification to that area of the casting was made during 1991 production to chamfer and increase the distance between the valve seats. That change has reduced the number of heads that crack. Some AERA machine shops remove the valve seats, weld the cracked area and reinstall valve seats to give the head a more acceptable cosmetic appearance. The AERA Technical Committee January 1996 - TB 1300 ##END## No cracks here, and the "chamfer" is gone. No hot spot. Gen 1 head. This head is robust by design with very good execution. People still manage to crack these too. Some people can tear up an anvil. Doug CYLINDER HEAD CRACK BETWEEN THE VALVE SEATS Article Text 1989 Subaru DL/GL/RX For Craig's Shop Copyright © 1998 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC Wednesday, November 05, 2003 07:13PM ARTICLE BEGINNING TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN CYLINDER HEAD CRACK BETWEEN THE VALVE SEATS Model Subaru L-Series & Loyale (1.8L MPI & SPI OHC Engines) Group Engine Bulletin No. 02-88-93 Date February 5, 1993 NOTE: Do not replace cylinder heads for a crack between the intake valve seats. Some cylinder heads may exhibit cracks between the intake and exhaust valve seats. These "bridge cracks" do not cause coolant leaks or result in valve seat movement. "Bridge cracks" are cosmetic in nature, and do not justify replacement of the cylinder head. See Fig. 1. Production Changes to Prevent Bridge Cracking 1. A chamfer was made between the valve seats and the cylinder head. 2. Distance between the intake and exhaust valves was increased. This condition does not affect the integrity or durability of the cylinder head nor the operation of the engine. Fig. 1: Cylinder Head Crack END OF ARTICLE

I'd love to torque down a set of those on the "A" motor. But shipping is killer and you know they aren't cheap. Custom cam of my dreams, lol. The steering, no problem with the distributor out of the way, and if so inclined, I'm not all that concerned with something sticking through the hood. Doug

So, do you have a replacement flex plate on hand? Don't know where you are but I could ship you one out in the a.m. Doug lmk

Just some thoughts about the oil pressure on this. Op has been through the oil pump and if that's not it, sounds like possible main bearings to me. Priority main engine and if it's leaking oil there, nothing else is getting the propper oil pressure. hth Doug

I hear you. E 85 or better for fuel tho. When it comes time for head studs easiest thing to do is go over size from stock, and there is room, and drill the block. Find a cooperative stud manufacturer to pull two different lengths that fit from inventory. No custom studs that way. They just have to fit under the cam cases with a conical spring head stud washer. Where is that XT stand alone article? Doug

So that calls for a good, safe, adjustable rev limiter built into the engine management system. Don't know exactly what that will be. Adjustable 7 to 8 K rpm would be nice. One knock sensor for tuning, I'd like to have one for each cylinder while we're at it. Knock senser will probably be unplugged on actual drag strip runs. Doug

Hope this helps, just some thoughts. Lifters and rocker arms are heavy, tho you have aluminum pushrods? and you only have a single valve spring stock. So it's rev limited. If you use the EA 71 pistons, you can if you want "destroke" and take a bit off the tops of the pistons. If you don't have excellent compression, why bother in the first place? Doug P.S. Just ran across this again: Camshaft Identification On Subaru 1.6 & 1.8L Engines The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information to assist technicians in camshaft identification and possible reuse limits on Subaru engines. Although the camshafts from different engines look similar, substitutions are not permitted. Subaru has marked their camshafts with numbers for identification purposes. Refer to the chart for easy reference and reuse limits. Cam & ID Lobe Lift Push Rod Engine Lifter Type Mark (Int & Exh) Length 1.6L OHV Solid 51 1.2693-1.2732 8.620-8.624 1.8L OHV Solid 72 1.2693-1.2732 9.080-9.100 1.8L OHV Hydraulic 76 1.4134-1.4173 9.120-9.140 The wear limit for cam lobes on all camshafts is .059 (.15 mm) less than the listed specification. The maximum camshaft end play is .008 (.20 mm) and is controlled by a replaceable thrust plate. The AERA Technical Committee Just some numbers for you, hth. A stock flatop N/A EA 81 piston I have weighs 415g. New EA 82T piston comes in at 365g. I'll weigh a SPFI piston, which is more than the T piston. Edit: 396 grams for SPFI piston.

The pistons will be ceramic/silica coated Genuine Subaru 7.7 1. Final CR will be closer to 8.0 1. The cylinder walls are quite thick. Anyone who says these block/cases shouldn't be bored doesn't know what they are doing. Doug

Here's mine and I need to get the trim off without tearing anything up. Wasn't so easy last time I did it. I'll probably use black weatherstrip adhesive in place of the trim seals that seem to nearly always disentegrate. Doug

All right, here's what I've got. My first spring loaded adjustable solid lash adjuster. You tell me, what would you call it? It's installed on #1 exhaust valve with a checker spring and valve rocker. I removed this stuff from the HLA. That little spring is a Genuine Subaru installed magnet. This one isn't near as strong as a new magnet. Here's what this version is made of. I did some measuring, and stripped the HLA to the body, bottom cup and top plunger. Installed a grade 8 spring washer under the HLA. 4 pieces, parts left out cost nothing. Or I can just shim the HLA as I have o ring and studs on the cam cases. You can see some of the contact pattern on the valve rocker. The actual contact pattern is important to keep in mind here. Doug

"probably throwing down fifty horse to the wheels":burnout: Car hasn't ran in nearly three years. Put a battery on charge, 5 gallons fuel in it but am going to fill it tomorrow. Oil, filter, stat, flush, recored radiator, fresh diff and trans fluid. Removed carpet, hammered out quarter panel, installed better tires. Battery still low and coil wire unplugged. Haven't got oil pressure yet. Fuel pump working. We'll see. It probably puts down 60 hp to the front wheels. Doug

Ha. My 87 GL 10 had it's right rear sideglass broken in a wind storm. Tint all that's holding it in too. And duct tape, but haven't driven the car like that. I need to change it, but first I have to get one out of a parts car first. I've got three good ones, hope I don't need that many:). Oh, I've got the suction cups but have to round up the right blade. I think I'll look for something flexible, like my paring knife. Doug

Anyone ever see a little sheet metal cover over the water pump snout/shaft? Came on a car without AC, where the plastic fan bolts to the water pump, EA 82. I had one but sold it with the car. Doug

Genuine Subaru turbo to head coolant return hose and Mickey Mouse. That's as good as it gets. Roll pins are common size just different lengths to camshaft and crank sprockets.

"Second - why should I never shift into all wheel on dry pavement?" Hey, I've got one of those brown boxes. My experience with three Dual Range daily drivers, new stock size tires on them all when I got them is: I run gravel and chip and seal roads in any position I want. Low range is what I use, in the hills. Perfect. I run black top state highways in Low Range when I want. I flip it onto the gravel berm whenever I want to unwind it. Never a problem once you've done it and know what you're doing. Doug

17.1 second 82 mph quarter mile basically stock GL-10 for reference. I want to trailer my car to National Trails Raceway in Columbus, Ohio next season. NHRA track. Doug http://www.dragtimes.com/Subaru-GL-Timeslip-7216.html

Ha. Well, I'm not going to Lock an Load this "B" motor. I don't want to hurt the shortblock. I've got some time in it. The rods aren't "that" good as is. "A" motor, different story. Doug

I skimmed the first page, got my attention. I'll look it over throughly. Doug