Quidam

What he said. Coil on plug might be a problem, we'll see. I have clearance problems with #1 and #4 spark plugs. The intake. Injecter bungs need installed. I want the center section removable (unbolt and adjustable for different head block combos). Squared up like it is, the runners are equal length. They will be 44 mm inside diameter, now the tubing is 41 mm IIRC. I decided today when I do it, I'll take the whole thing to a fabrication shop. I figure a couple hours labor in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing will square it away. I ground through that one runner trying to get enough clearance for the turbo. The thermostat threads are borked. And I don't like where it sits, too close to the runners. A stock EA T part won't fit there. The water crossover bungs are too small for my use so the whole thing is in transition still. But it will work out. I almost cut the stat housing off today to start over. Mabie tomorrow when I cut the runners off. Portable band saw. Doug

Numbers...hummm. You get a new carb and install bigger jets with it to compensate for gasoline that isn't blended for carbs these days but F.I. . Mileage? Don't know about that unless your Hitachi is dead. Performance? Of course Sound? If it's set up right, transition from primary to secondary will be seemless. That sounds pretty good. hth Doug Oh, do a compression test. If the numbers aren't strong any carb won't function it's best. Because it all depends on a strong vaccume signal. EFI makes adjustments when this happens. Mass air flow goes down it adjusts. etc.

on the adjustable cams however, would it of just been easier to slot the holes rather than using the cam inserts?" Answer me this. I was told, "the answer is easy, if you take it logically." How would you build a SLA, (solid lash adjuster) for this motor? I know how I'm going to do it. Only thing holding back 8 K rpm is valvesprings. We'll see what it will do tho. Doug

"Cost him all of $200 at a shop." I told the op where to buy Genuine Subaru new for cheap. Throw a generic passing second cat on it and call it good. What am I missing? Doug

Hey, I just did a set of "orange" sprockets. My next will be red anodized. I can think of a few ways to do these. The way I did it, my stuff ain't "moving" anywhere. I wanted to ask WJM a question this afternoon, seeing how he would be one who knows the answer. I don't need to know everything, I just need to know where to find the answers. I could ask GD or or a neighbor woman. Those two know everything. Doug

U G L Y YOU ain't got no alibi, you're UGLY. Sincerely, Love Doug

If I understand correctly, I'd use a shop vac on the cylinder before inserting the new plug. Doug

I'll take some pictures tomorrow. Degree wheel doesn't fit without some mods. I'll throw the timing belts on it tomorrow. Oil pump has to be in for all that. Camshafts. I've got two sets stock Turbo. Options? Delta, a little more duration from what I understand. I can get more lift with solid lash adjusters. Doug

Hey, I wasn't talking about you. Apology not accepted becauase none required. GD, anyone who has a personal vendeta against this engine, cheerleaders. Doug

I didn't read GD and will not. I don't want anyone even posting that hates my car. Doug

No offense taken but I'm not going to waste my time talking EJ motor. Doug

FYI, and what I have on hand. 1989 DR 5 speed. New fenders, 1986 hood without the windshield sprayers, all the GL-10 stuff for the doors... Low mileage stuff on hand. Turbo Traction Wagon 5 speed with diff lock and 3.7 gears that I should be able to pull:) A "mostly" complete 5 lug from Pennsylvania where XT6 goes to die. Manual steering rack, AC was gone long ago to never return. Doug

Hey Guys, It happens that this is what i'm doing, so bear with me. I've got a 151 K Loyale that has the tick. I can save it and it's at only half it's potential life in mileage. I parked it untill I get it fixed, which I'll do soon. And, I drove a GL wagon a couple of years with the tick and below is the parts from it. I junked the title at 129,000 miles and wondered why it was such a dog compared to the others I'd driven. Last trip out with it, I drove from Cincinnatti to here with a 17" Grummand canoe and it struggled. It was miserable. If the lash adjesters aren't pumped up, your valves aren't opening all the way. Keep in mind that the oil from the main gallery goes through the cam out jet to lubricate the cam journals, and that's the only supply to them. Splash lube only goes so far. The journal and cam should never touch with the oil film between them. Keep this in mind. I've never heard of the head gasket oil passage o ring being blown. Neve seen it either. Under 47 ft. lb. torque. The black marker is where you will find sharp edges from the wear. I'm going to hone these as they are scuffed. By the book, clearance is .0008 to 2.8 or something. Red the flow of oil. These cam cases are used aluminum and they aren't straight. A through job can't be done here unless all this stuff is checked. IMO Doug

I will be installing this set on the motor.

This 0 ring seat was a mess. That left to right line you see goes all the way left to the outer cam case. From what I've saw, these things blow out at those upper corners. The oil comes straight from the main oil galley and takes a radical up/left. That's an increase of pressure/resistince right there. The pressure gets behind the seal and caves it inward. Then the oil leaks into the cam case. The oil goes from that 0 ring area to the cam journal, then up to the jet. This passes into the head to feed the hydraulic lash adjusters. If the seal is broken on the oil supply at the 0 ring or where the oil passes from cam case to head the lash adjusters will starve for oil. There is no gasket from cam case to head and that surface can be too rough to seal. I pulled apart a 129K mile motor hoping I'd find a mint set cam cases. The O ring was blown in and it ticked the whole time I drove it. The thrust surface on the cam case for the cam journal was scuffed and worn a good bit. That's one down side for the motor if the seal blows. It just can't be good for the lash adjusters to starve for oil, not be able to function and get slapped around. Shows how durable these things are. I've got two cam cases to tune up for a motor I'm building and this one is for shop use as it's trashed. Anyway, I'm resurfacing both of them as well as the O ring seats. What ever I remove from that surface moves the cam closer to the head and pre loads the lash adjusters a little more. With a reduced base circle Delta cam, it wouldn't matter at all. Because you need to shim the lash adjuster anyway. Man, I had dreams of finding some more cam lift today there. Then I said, naw. I'm going to have to think this through again. What do you think? If I take .025 off the cam case, will I gain any lift? Edit: I'm thinking right now that the lash adjuster will compensate and absorb it. Not sure tho. Doug

I ran across this several months ago researching parts for a 4 Bore Hitachi I have. It's a modern, in production...don't know the market Hitachi side draft. I've been wanting to run a Holley on one. "Pink" and "Blue" heads on the SPFI manifold below. I know of no one who's welded one up for a carb tho. Variation of these carbs have any option I'd want to pay for. Same price range as a Weber. Comes with 30 cc accelerator pump. 50cc and such available. Externally adjustable center pivot float...on and on. People have specialized in these things and you can buy any mod you can think of and pay for. Anyway, I'd like to stumble across a good used one for cheap. I know them inside and out. Doug

That sounds like $700.00 to $800.00 U.S. dollars plus shipping. Front wheel drive? It'd be sweet just to use the EJ tranny too. Doug

Don't buy parts from a person, or let anyone work on your car, that hates it. Bad Carma to say the least. On the Hitachi, look up The Dime Quarterly for a primer. I'm gratefull to the Datsun guys for one for some of what I know about it. Doug

This is a junk cam carrier. I surfaced two for the motor, sets more crush on the oil passage O-ring and a better seal for the other oil passages. Will refinish the 0-ring seat. because it needs it. Old rings get pushed inwards from one spot, from what I've saw. Just do it. If it's aluminum, it ain't straight. This is a new Fel Pro Mickey. I wouldn't want to ever use one on a oil pump by choice. They don't fit right. I modified that pin punch and scraped a radius on the bottom of the squarish slot. Fits pretty good. This seal needs to equal the fit of a Genuine Subaru oil pump seal. These cam cases usually only leak on the bottom. This one, the original red silicone was destroyed from heat and time. But only there. While we're on the subject. Doug

To find any power that can be had. I've read reports of 40 hp gain on a high powered Subie. I've witnessed the gain on a SBC. I use them to gain cranking compression sometimes... Doug

The set going on the motor to check it all out. Piston to valve, quench, valve timing... with a degree wheel. You can see the bolt hole slots only need to accomodate 8* advance or retard. These studs have a shoulder that fits pretty good to the bushing, but it's not a friction fit to it or bushing to sprocket. It could be. This is the 0* bushing that will go on the motor first. Shown with a stock size roll pin. I can make adjustments and go for friction fit on the next set. Doug I ordered this and some low tension Comp Cams checking springs. They were quite a bit cheaper than the JEGS house brand. Those guys are right up the road and are now building and leasing Pro Stock motors. $50,000 per weekend if you wanna rent one. They install it and remove it when it's over. Yeow

Yes you can and I've done it. Hardest part is getting the screws out that retains the filler neck inside the fuel door. Doug

Hit Delta up for cam specs and go from there? On the single Weber. If you're taking the time to do this...what I'm saying is. I won't have anything to do personally with an "adaptor" onto a small manifold. And I once bolted a 780 CFM Holley square bore to a stock Ford manifold. Sucked. Anyway I would challange anyone here. I can build an Hitachi to stomp all over a stock Weber. And if I were using the Weber personally, I'd swap it to the SPFI Intake Manifold. Or the Spider. Doug

My first set of Adjustable Cam Sprockets. Bushings for small and big block Chevy, BB Chrysler. Sprocket #3 with 8* bushing. Sprocket #4 will be drilled a little differently. Tightening up clearances. I need to check this all out further with a degree wheel. I'm drilling two cams and installing 6mm 1.0 threads for stud and nut where the factory roll pin lived. I can't use that at all. Possibly a longer pin with a different set of bushings. On set #2 I'm installing studs.

True story in my neighborhood this past year. And it's common if you look all over the internet boards with old turbo cars. Young person, (that would be Wendall), goes through several Hondas working, modifying...some good looking stuff actually. He gets this motor and installs it with a Garrett something. Worked for a few months on it, dollars I don't know about. He drove it 11 miles. It was done. Doug