Quidam

Primary turbo will be the VF on the first go around. I've got two like new. FYI. Standard procedure on this motor has been casting flash removal, deburred. Oil passages and every passage in the block I matchd with the head gasket. A lot of easy cleanup and improvement for the cooling there. Cam case towers...sharp edges removed, trued up flat surfaces. You get the idea. What I'm trying to figure out right now is what size O-ring cord to use to seal the cam cases. I've read where someone used 5mm. IIRC the slot is about 2mm depth and width...I'm going to use Viton when I figure out what size I want. All the cam tower bolts replaced with studs. It means pulling to motor to pull the cam towers I believe. Unless I unscrew the studs. Doug http://www.ebay.com/itm/140551966938?var=440019346848&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I've never looked at the Spider manifold but the gaskets for it measure 37mmX41 and I like the shape for ports. I've got ports 44mm minimum as it stands in the heads. So, two carbs, what would you choose? Doug

Yea, only off the shelf pistons I know of for it. IIRC it will cost $450.00? ish. Motor #2. Yea I saw what you did:) Cast pistons, even quality, which these are, can only take so much. High boost without proper management, lean out, detonation will trash any of them tho. I know of a 600 whp Subie still laying that down with E-85 and cast pistons. He's a tuner. Doug

"While I was adding oil, "smoke" was coming out the dipstick hole. HRM... When it's running, there is what I can only describe as a "chuffing" sound when I remove the oil fill cap or the dipstick. Do you think that is a symptom of a burnt valve?" That sounds and looks like blowby on the rings. Doug

Sounds good. Did you happen to break the output shaft on the five speed? Doug

Thought I better show and tell you what I have to start. This is a standard size "B" block/case. B pistons. I could use either. Nitrated Napier second ring set on the SPFI piston. Genuine Subaru on the Turbo piston. Japanese tri metal mains, polished w/800 grit worn paper. ACL rod bearings. 400 finish on the bore. I've got this set to check piston to valve clearance. I ordered Jegs cam bushings, two sets at $20.25 shipped. I'll need to have these installed when I check piston to valve clearance. Manual variable valve timing, sort of. Ring side clearance excellent on both and either set of rings fit either set of pistons. BTW, I've got .001.5 side clearance on the second ring. I put the combo in the freezer and it shrank to .0005. anyway New valve springs, oil pump...I gained some compression with the deck, lost some with the combustion chamber work and head shave. Low mileage stainless valves. I've got more blocks and part. I've done three heads as far as porting and any others I do will be a piece of cake compared to what I've done, learning. Rods are quality forged steel I beam. I've have to sort through a few sets of SBC rods to get a good set for something like this. This one was practice/junker. Best to start with a low mileage set, which I have. Next set resized, rebushed, (which I have) shot peened and polished... That's it for now. Doug

Hi. I could use an original for the primary turbo. Nothing has been final assembled. Or set in stone. I'm going to put a solid rebuilt block under it initially. Copper coat on the headgaskets with a decked block and heads. Block #2 would be drilled and tapped for larger head studs. The Subie guys have found out that ethanal, higher compression, and the right tune will work. I ordered a valve spring compresser as my two finger one doesn't get the job done without drama. Then I check piston to valve and get some cams done. My goal is 400 hp at the crank. My initial thought was the early EJ-20 stuff might fill the bill. Forged pistons in block #2 for when I crank the boost to hit the numbers. Street/Dragstrip in a 2400 pound car. A mock-up for measurement and fit to the car. Doug

Basic idea is to use Genuine Subaru wiring, sensors, ecu, etc on a EA-82TT. Tuneible with a laptop open source. Distributorless, coil near plug. I need to start sourcing parts with prices. 9.5 compression on E85 possibly. What donor car would you source all the parts from? What do you think. Feedback on the swap needed. Sincerely, Doug

36 peaks, 36 valleys. 360*. Peaks 10*, valleys 5* each. Basically, insert one of these in the hole where the dowel pin holds the sprocket. Chose 2*, 4*, 6*, or 8*, advance or retard. I've modified two and messed them both up. 7/32" chain saw file to slightly elongate the three bolt holes. I used other means and it didn't work out. Doug

Please do, i'm curious what you see. You've got 10.0 to 1 compression, or there abouts? Mabie more fuel? Not enough cam for 6K rpm? One thought. Try lighter springs, as long as it doesn't ping. On a drag race car you can lock all the timing, except total out. With a start retard. Doug

Hey it's me, just some thoughts...and I don't know what you've got to check total timing. I take my dial back timing light and with the motor running set it to 0. Rev it up and see where it ends up. Newer Subaru with more efficient heads seem to run 25* Total. Some older cars I've known ran thirty two to thirty eight. Just depends on the motor. On a subaru, no replacement flyweights are available to change the curve itself. This ain't a SBC huh? Generally, timing should be all in around 2500 rpm or so. Now i'm wondering if I forgot the question. Doug

Well as you can see, EJ intrudes into seemingly EVERY conversation where the topic is EA-82. This is not the "ULTIMATE" board for this. If I had time I'd create one. Just the facts kind of deal and on topic for those who want to know. Anyway. Your proposed setup. Right off the bat you're giving up 7 psi cranking compression not using SPFI pistons. If the compression isn't up to snuff on the motor, I won't bother with a performance build. That's what the whole engine is designed around, what happens in the combustion chamber. Dual carbs need a hot cam, higher compression a, and the ability to turn high rpm to make use of them. Your motor will turn 7K all day long if you want it to. I'm putting together a motor and I've done some thinking about the cams, because at this point, what I can get will dictate how I build the rest of the motor. There's Delta and possibly Ram as far as I know. I'm not ready to buy so I haven't called them. I need to physically check piston to valve clearance before I do. I looked at the FSM and did some measuring. It looks like stock cams have about .396 Lift, NA and Turbo. Turbo duration is 250*, NA duration is 244*. You asked about the Turbo cams in your setup. I'm pretty sure Gloyle in this thread has ran them in a NA motor. The exhaust timing events are more different on the exhaust than the intake. I don't have centerlines yet and not sure if there is any downside to it. I did some more measuring and it looks like .464 ish is the max lift at the valve that can be installed in the cam carrier. With a lot more duration that's still not a "wild" cam. I have experience with 10.0 to 1 compression and .292* 490* on the street and it's not undrivable. Not in a Subaru tho. Anyway, just some thoughts. Doug P.S. Edit. I love my roller cam, roller rocker LS:). The cams. I've worked out a cheap way to make adjustable cam sprockets. I'll order the parts soon. I'm talking twenty bucks and some time kind of deal. That would help with your motor. Add some torque or horsepower, depending if you retard or advance the cams. I don't have any hope of finding higher ratio rockers tho to increase lift. Doug

Here's a quote from NASOIC: It's a EJ251 shortblock with a cobb balenced crank, stock rods & pistons, and a sti oil pump. Capped off by EJ22e heads, port and polished, delta torque cams. 98 hp and 107 ft-lbs a stock 07 2.5i on this dyno reads 93 hp and 98 ft-lbs

I haven't but the standard for remanufacture/high performance is 1 mm over. If you used them it would be best to unshroud the valves in the combustion chamber. If I'm not mistaken, RAM engines sells 1 mm over for these. Doug

I've done some work to improve the surface around the spark plug area and I need to unshroud the valves a little more. I finish those ports off with ball hones. It will take three different sizes to do it and the three will do both heads. I lowered the floor and raised the roof in these D ports. At the gasket, it's a full 2". I'm going to need a carbide burr with a 6" shaft to finish these heads. I've been using three inch. Number one and three Intake ports aren't as good as the other two because of spark plug clearance. I did what I could with them. Here's a problem. Camshafts. It looks to me like I can get possibly another 1 mm plus lift with reground cams. I just don't know what they cost right now. I want all the lift I can stuff into it. Doug

Something to consider is the valves. NA EA-82 has stainless exhaust valves and regular intake valves. They have a backcut, two angle deal at the valve head. The turbo head has both valves stainless and they weigh quite a bit more. I'd use the NA valves with your setup. I just ported a set of dual ports and there is room for improvement there. At least a pocket port casting flash removal/port match. I spent about 15 hours grinding on them and a custom intake. Still have to polish and all ports are in the range of 41 mm plus or minus. There is meat where the headbolts and lash adjuster casting intrudes into the ports that can be safely cut down... I'll try to get a pic. Doug

Well, another lifter story:) I stripped a 129,000 mile SPFI down to the short block the other day. I'm the second owner and it ticked the whole year I drove it. One of the cam case o-rings is sucked in. That's the supply line off the main oil gallery. The 2 cam seals are hard as rocks. The two cam o-rings are intact but worse for wear and age. So anyway. I'm using the cam carriers on an EA-82T. I'm basically going over every inch of this motor with a fine tooth comb. What I did was check the mating surface of the cam carrier where it interfaces with the head. I decided to use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper in a solid sanding block to go over the surface. It made quite an improvement in the flatness and finish there with very little effort. Now, there is no sealant or gasket between the cam case and head for the oil passage to the lifters. I believe it's possible that some peoples engines bleed some oil off due to surface irregularities there. I can't see any downside to trueing up this surface. Unless you do it wrong. Doug

Rock Auto, 2 row copper/brass. 1990 SUBARU LOYALE 1.8L 1781cc H4 MFI Turbo (5) SOHC : Cooling System : Radiator SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU1099 $177.79 Doug

Something to consider here is the effective compression ratio. A 9.0:1 carb block @7psi boost will have an effective compression ratio around 13.3:1. Generally, you would need a stand alone spark box, like an MSD unit and run pig rich on fuel/air mixture. High octane fuel required. By the factory service manual the cam lift is the same between carb, spfi, and mpfi turbo. I don't know about duration. The turbo cams have different intake and exaust valve timing. You would want to use the turbo cams should you try this. The turbo cams intake opens earlier and closes later than the carb/spfi cams. 4* and 2*. The turbo cams exhaust opens earlier and closes earlier than the carb/spfi cams. 7* and 1*. GD has stated that one of the main reasons he hates the EA-82, is that he's pissed Subaru didn't use that R and D on the EA-81. Dead platform? That's not realistic as people all over the world are still driving them. Doug

Hey, Every Owners Manual I have here, and I have several from different years states: "Trailer towing Towing trailers or other items with your Subaru is not recommended." I'm wondering where you got that 1,900 lb. figure from. In short, if you cause death or injury to someone with this rig, you can be held criminally responsible. Should a crash happen, they may weigh your rig and look at the specs, and hold it against you at trial. Doug

Did some RockAuto shopping: 1987 SUBARU GL-10 1.8L 1781cc H4 MFI Turbo (7) SOHC Mid pipe to muffler gasket. I've bought AP before, high quality. AP EXHAUST8772Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket$1.43 All Beck/Arnley on this list is same as Genuine Subaru. 1.43BECK/ARNLEY0340756Oil Pan Gasket Wholesaler Closeout -- $3.07 3.07BECK/ARNLEY0396298Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket Turbo to downpipe. Wholesaler Closeout -- 5.13CORTECO19572Valve Cover Gasket Set. With grommets. Wholesaler Closeout --$4.09 Completes a new set. LOYALE 1.8L 1781cc H4 TBI (5) SOHCBECK/ARNLEY0213272Intake Valve Wholesaler Closeout -- $5.57 LOYALE RS 1.8L 1781cc H4 MFI Turbo (5) SOHCBECK/ARNLEY0390023Thermostat Housing Gasket Wholesaler Closeout -- $ 0.66 Total $ 30.23 It helps to kind of know your way around there to get what you need.

Well, the perfect car for me starts with low miles. "am I missing anything?" Yes. You don't have enough motor to pull a pop up. And you don't have the brakes to stop it. And you have Air Conditioning too? Damn. Look at the weight capacities of your car.

#1 huh...got me thinking. If an intake bolt/stud is tightned too tight bottemed out, an EA head might crack. I did it with a stud and now have a shiney tool/dead weight. hth

I'd be wanting to start with a sound engine. Low miles. Have the injectors checked/rebuilt/replaced. Check the waste gate port on the turbo. If it's not cracked, that's a good sign. If the motor was ran lean, they overheat here. A minor crack and no shaft play will do tho. The parts are easy to come by and cheap. I like it:) Doug

Hi nub, If your car "overheated" with the heater core out of the loop, that implies that it's vital for engine cooling. I'm thinking the "hottest it's going to get" coolant, once diverted past the temperature sender, is giving a "false" reading. But if it "really" "overheated" your car, that can't be true. Doug