Quidam

Here's another picture. Note that it doesn't have a filler neck. I know of some Fords and Chevys that are the same way. Moroso makes an inline filler neck and I know of some Fords and Chevys that came factory the same way. Doug Of course, you would have to run the supply hose to the water pump across the front bottom of the motor.

Something like that may work. Here's the dimensions for a VW Rabbit. RADIATOR, 1-ROW -- 21.25 x 12 x 1.25 in. core size, 1.25 in. inlet size, 1.25 in. outlet size, 1.88 x 12.63 in. top header, 1.88 x 12.63 in. bottom header, plastic tanks, aluminum core, top right inlet location, bottom right outlet location; Without transmission and engine oil cooler;

I see. hummm. Doug

" went out to do some 0-60 times in my 1988 Subaru GL-10 and blew the rear main seal. we pushed my car about 1.5 miles and drove it at very low rpm's most of the time. we had to drive a total of 6.5 miles to get back to my house." You had no oil pressure? If you didn't the bearings wipe and the piston skirts scuff. They're not actually supposed to touch the cylinder walls. The oil film seperates them. Same with the bearings. "i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time." That engine may be toast. hth Doug

Here is some text from a company that remanufactures Subaru engines. I believe the 1998 to 2005 2.5 SOHC and DOHC are both sold for $2975.00 plus core. They warranty their engines for 7 years or 70,000 miles, whichever comes first. " What is the difference between a rebuilt and remanufactured engine? There is a huge difference between a rebuilt engine and remanufactured one! Companies that rebuild engines will use some of the old engine parts over again. The reality is that they're using used engine parts in their engine blocks. Many engine rebuilders will clean and reuse the valves, valve springs, valve train, push rods and oil pumps over again and sell them to you hidden in the engine. Simply put, you are buying an engine with used mechanical parts. A remanufactured engine must meet or exceed all original equipment specifications. In other words, a remanufactured engine has all new moving parts with re-machined castings which include cylinder head, cylinder block, connecting rods and crankshaft. WE SELL REMANUFACTURED LONG BLOCKS THAT MEET OR EXCEED OE SPECIFICATIONS!" " Our engine supplier has maintained an amazing 1.5% failure rate during its 25+ years in the engine business while the national average failure rate is above 5%." "Our Subaru rebuild engine comes with an exclusive 7-year or 70,000 mile warranty. Power your Subaru automobile with a high performance remanufactured engine (same or better than Subaru crate engine)." " Product Quality: Our remanufactured engines built to IMPROVE not just REPLACE! All parts in our remanufactured long blocks meet or exceed all original manufactures specifications, and most of the time purchased from the same suppliers who supply the original manufacture. Note: Beware of any engine supplier using words like reclaimed, re-machined or replaced; These statements mean they are putting used parts back in their engine! Our engines cost less and all our moving parts are new!" You can't "remanufacture" a Subaru engine without replacing the valves. You machine material off and change the valvetrain geometry. Claim here is there is never a problem with Subaru valves. It's not a problem, if you're claiming it's rebuilt. Pistons. You can't "remanufacture" a Subaru engine without replacing them with new. Used select fit just doesn't get it. The side clearance for the rings open up, and no matter what you do, it isn't like new. Claim here is that you never need to bore a Subaru engine. Well, not if you're just rebuilding it, I suppose. The bores do wear in distinct patterns and you're not going to acheve like new ring seal. The bores also distort when you bolt a torque plate to the block. In a square pattern. Rings and bearings, valve job has been done for ages it seems like. I just don't run into many people that call that remanufactured. Doug Edit: And here is some of the qualifications for selling a remanufactured engine on eBay. Of course, there are no cops to enforce it. "It is the functional equivalent of a new part and is virtually indistinguishable from a new part."

Hey Dirk, YW. Hope it helps. You figure this all out like you've been doing and tuning with a laptop isn't much difference. The vacuum can you have, the spring isn't tight enough for the compression ratio you're running. Allows to much advance too soon. For now, what you can do is disconnect the vacuum line and plug it. Bump the initial timing to probably 10, 12* or so. Only limit is keep it from dieseling, kick back/hard starting, and ping. That increases the total timing, but the motor will tell you what it wants. You don't even have to use a timing light for that. The recurve on the distributor can be done in the car. Just a matter of having the parts on hand. The most essential is two lighter springs. Adapting an adjustable vacuum advance can would be my choice as well. Makes that setting a snap. Got to go for a while, I'll check back though. Doug

Hi, Concerning fuel these days compared to what was run when your car was new. "4) Fuels have changed. Modern fuels are no longer designed for carbs, but for EFI. It makes a big difference. The most important change I know of is the lowering of the evaporation point. Simply put, fuel now has a lower boiling point than it used to. This results in float bowls drying out and harder starting. It causes accelerator pumps to fail when the fuel and additives and wet/dry cycles destroy the pump cups. It causes vapor locking, overheating and detonation from lean mistures." 5) Alcohol. There's a big push to add alcohol to fuels. We all know the reasons that this is happening and, frankly, I'm not going to debate it one way or the other. What I do know is that alcohol changes mixtures in carbureted engines. It takes almost twice as much alcohol as gasoline to produce the same amount of power. That means that to feed your engine, if alcohol is added, it will require more fuel and a richer mixture. You either have to de-tune the engine or re-jet the carb. Sometimes jets, siphon tubes, internal passage sizes, power valves, and more need attention. EFI works differently because these systems look for proper mixtures by sniffing the exhaust and listening for knock and sensing heat. Carbs can't and don't make adjustments like EFI does. In my daily driver, if I use straight non-alcohol regular I can get 20 MPG all day long. If I put the alcohol fuel in the tank this drops down to between 14 and 16 mpg. A 10-20 percent drop in fuel mileage is not uncommon. However, EFI will accommodate this change in fuel quality and simply add more fuel to normalize conditions." I'd have to read that again after sleep. I want the highest vac reading and cranking compression I can get. They go hand in hand. What produces that high cranking compression also produces the strong vac. signal. That draws in the most fuel/air possible. Doug

Whether or not it will pass would depend on whether they allow Genuine Subaru Cats to be put on the car. It will have one bung for O2. Not much else to it. The cat is worth $90.00 scrap, btw. Doug

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150344063952&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

"This motor sounded like a diesel on cold start up at 38K." By their own admission, they "never" use new pistons. Doug

A backyard hack wrote the above. Consider this: EXCESSIVE bolt loading will cause problems. Many backyard mecanics think that if 50 Ft. lbs of torque is good then 60 is better. In fact dynomometer testing has shown that less is best in most instances. Indeed extra horsepower maybe gotten by being "torque frugal". Why??? The more torque that is applied onto the block the more chance of distortion. This distortion is usually seen at the weakest places at the narrowes point of the bore and at the top of the cylinder. At the top of the cylinder where the compression pressures are always greatest any excess distortion will nullify any benefit of that extra clamping force. Blow-by of gasses will cause premature gasket burn through and less horsepower. "Less maybe best". Doug

"CCR has not had good reviews on this site of late. I am not a customer of their's - at the end of the day their prices are just out of this world." They sell engines advertised as "Remanufactured" and they are not. They are REBUILT. And, you can take that to the bank. Doug

Yea, don't you just love it:) I don't think the people who did the work are the same folks doing the listing. Just an example. I've looked with a magnifyer and didn't see any cracks tho. Doug

"I figure my best bet is a CCR rebuild - want the peace of mind..." How do you figure that? If Gross Gary told you that, do the oppisite. Doug

For example, look here:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V4-SUBARU-cylinder-head-109ci-1-8-litre-E81-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d4Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1117888001710789245QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ170552572431 " Cylinder heads are ready to bolt on. They've been pressure tested, glassbeaded, magnafluxed, milled, 3 angle competition valve job, new guides & seals." These heads look to be uncracked. I have a set of EA-82T heads, they have one crack. Between the valves on #3. They are used and first gen. I got them from Peter on this board and he can verify that if he choses. Not all heads crack, are cracked. Overheated, yes they probably will be. Coolant flows from the back of the motor to the front and the main source of heat in an engine is in the combustion chamber. #3 and 4 get the damage first, if when/if it happenes. Don't fill it right, start it up without coolant, air pockets, overheat it and drive it home anyway, I can hear your heads cracking:) Doug Edit: Hey, got any pictures of the pistons? Show me your busted up ring lands please:). Here's what new ones look like. About $60.00, ebay.

I took a closer look, that thing is a mess. I can imagine what the pistons and ring lands look like. The erosion and damage is all over. Yes, what you see, the "specks". Doug

"I have been in touch with the owner at time of failure. He said it blew a hose (or something) and overheated. I didn't see any obvious places the head gaskets blew, but there was water in the oil and a cylinder." Was the water in the cylinder in the first picture? Is this an EA-81? That motor has been detonated, look at picture #2. Doug

Consider this:" EXCESSIVE bolt loading will cause problems. Many backyard mecanics think that if 50 Ft. lbs of torque is good then 60 is better. In fact dynomometer testing has shown that less is best in most instances. Indeed extra horsepower maybe gotten by being "torque frugal". Why??? The more torque that is applied onto the block the more chance of distortion. This distortion is usually seen at the weakest places at the narrowes point of the bore and at the top of the cylinder. At the top of the cylinder where the compression pressures are always greatest any excess distortion will nullify any benefit of that extra clamping force. Blow-by of gasses will cause premature gasket burn through and less horsepower. "Less maybe best". " Unlike the EJ, the EA-82 doesn't have headgasket problems, outside a good reason. Doug

And, you only need one buyer:) And those were a great deal! Ones I have, on the far right.

"I can't find a standard size piston kit." Hi Zaplage, There was a board member here that posted a new set for sale a short time ago. Pistons, rings, pins, and locks. If you're interested still in a set, even from the U.S. I'd look them up. I believe he wanted only $100.00 for them. I have a set of EA-81 Atsugi (Japan) Beck/Arnley pistons I'd let go pretty cheap. I used the rings on an EA-82, pins and locks are gone from the set as well. Doug

Hey, I've replaced the Subaru oil pan drain plug in every EA-82 I've run with a magnetic plug. It's something that should have been done at the factory. So people don't have to fear the unknown about HLA, I broke this one down all the way. A dental pick makes removing and installing that bottom plunger/cap/spring/ball bearing a snap. Without depressing the ball bearing and spring, it can be a chore to remove/install. That little spring is a magnet and you can see it stick to the cup in the picture. Metal that gets past the ball bearing hopefully stays there. That bottom chamber is the most important part of these Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, and it where it all happens. Junk that gets past the ball bearing, and or disrupts the seating of the ball bearing is the problem. With old lash adjusters, the springs probably come into play. As it's just springs and after so long, they don't have the tension to work like they did when new. Doug

Hi Keith, It's a no go on the covers I have off. Doug

I'm not for certain that Ishino makes them for Subaru but that's what it looks like to me. Doug

I'm positive I have them, I'll look in the AM. I have a full set of all the rubber gaskets as well, new. Doug