Quidam

"Needs more boost." OK:) I've been working on an EA-82TT. I need to tack the drivers side up pipe in a couple places, then test fit in a car. The up pipe needs to clear the steering joint and shaft. I have a small power brake booster if I need it. Doug Edit: Drilled the drivers side head for oil return fitting, just like the other side. Metal tubing for coolant supply, in drivers side head. TT inspired by the EJ-20 and Twitch:)

Herniated something between the block and heads?

Interesting. But this ain't gold... This car is Mica Ruby originally. I like it. Repaint the top side with that then fade to the lower Black Mica. What I might do with what I've got. Best I can do with the software I have to illistrate.

Ok. But it's white duct tape on a white car, and it's invisible, covers the trim. Now you want a pic of THAT? Ok, I'll try.:-\ Doug:rolleyes:

Subaru Fujibond (Gray - Engine Sealer) 5.3 oz $37.00 $37.00 Subaru Fujibond (Red - Transmission Sealer) 8.8 oz. $27.00 $27.00 I've found very little actual info on these. $20.00 plus ship. TB1211 Three Bond Silicone Gasket Heat & Chemical Resistant Three Bond Silicone Gasket Heat and Chemical Resistance -Non solvent type silicone-based -Low viscosity, flowable and excellent workability. -Can be used with solid gaskets and it can be used for temporary fixing of O rings. -Corrodes copper and copper-based alloys. -Can not be used for copper and copper-based alloys in tightly-sealed state. Threebond 1215 This is the highest spec and latest sillicone sealer that THREEBOND manufacture, grey in colour (as aluminium), this sealer is very tough and stable. It can be used instead of gaskets on metal to metal joints and also supplement solid gaskets providing a tough and resistant joint to pressure, shocks, vibrations, petrol, oil, gear oil, liquid coolents, LPG and water. It can fill gaps up to 2.5mm making it a very universal sealer for sump pans, grommets, and water pumps as well. It`s a one component silicone which remains flexible and has no shrinking effect whilst curing. It remains stable between -60deg C and +250 deg C. Most people think of silicone as RTV, which has that 'pear drop' smell, this is light years ahead of that - it has no acetic acid in its composition at all. This drys/cures at 2.5mm per 24 hours at 25 deg C giving you plenty of time to assemble your components. The product skins over quickly (curing from the outside in) providing a pressure resistant seal within minutes of assembly, allowing you to fill with oil and test. This is much thicker than 1104 and is less elastic but stronger. I choose this over 1104 when I need a stronger, more complete joint quicker, or a thicker deposit as this can be sculpted into corners like main bearing caps, cam covers, and outer covers where wires or grommets come through. As with all Threebond products thoroughly clean the surfaces, don't leave any oil on them at all, degrease with thinners, apply evenly to one surface only and proceed with your assembly. After use expel any air in the tube and close the cap . Store in a cool dark place. In my workshop I use this product for modern engines and old alike, cars and bikes. This is a great all-round sealer for any uses including jet ski`s, outboards and marine engines. These tubes are 250grams. Honda bond, yamabond, lancer bond:) Here:http://stores.ebay.com/P-Seager-Engineering/_i.html?_fsub=11103160 PROSEAL RTV Silicone Instant Gasket is the most advanced gasketing material available for today's smaller high performance engines. Won't foul computer sensors. May also be used to coat gaskets for reliable seal. Resists high pressure and temperatures from 650F ( 329C). Resists oil, transmission fluid, water and antifreeze. For use Water Pumps Valve Covers Oil Pans Rear End Housings Transmission Pans Timing Chain Covers And Thermostat Housings First I've seen that go to 750 degrees. MAG INSTANT GASKETGREY PLUS FREE MAG SUPER GLUE 3g MAG RTV Silicone Instant Gasket is the most advanced gasketing material available for today's smaller high performance engines. Won't foul computer sensors. May also be used to coat gaskets for reliable seal. Resists high pressure and temperatures from 750F ( 399C). Resists oil, transmission fluid, water and antifreeze. For use Water Pumps Valve Covers Oil Pans Rear End Housings Transmission Pans Timing Chain Covers And Thermostat Housings MAG INSTANT GASKET WHITE PLUS FREE MAG SUPER GLUE 3g Resist Cracking and Shrinking Dries Tough Yet Flexible Mag RTV Silicone Instant Gasket is the most advanced gasketing material available for today's smaller high performance engines. Won't foul computer sensors. May also be used to coat gaskets for reliable seal. Resists high pressure and temperatures from 500F . Resists oil, transmission fluid, water and antifreeze. For use Exhaust Manifolds Exhaust Crossover Pipes Oil Pump FLANGES Water Pumps Valve Covers Oil Pans Transmission Pans

Nice rack:)

Yes, there is a way to split the block with the pistons still connected to the rods and crank. I took a slug of oak firewood and pounded with a sledge. Don't do this if you want to reuse the pistons.

Hey Miles, I don't have a Subaru painted like this yet: But I want one. Darker bottom, lighter top. I do have a '82 Chevy Beauville. It has darker brown at the windows. They are all factory tint and darker tint all around. The bottom strip is metallic brown ish. Next, going up is Cream at the hood line. The at the window level, that brown. The top of the van is cream. These are what I like. The van, that paint was optional custom two tone. I drove it off the showroom floor when new. It was sweet:) Doug

I took spare cam case bolts and some spent steel rifle shell casings... Cut the tapered end off the casings and pushed them into the mounting holes into the intake with the CC bolts. Fits perfect and the bushings go through the top flange and slghtly extend into the base plates. Next is to bush the underside of the base plates. I need it "locked" in place to do porting work. Everything here is still subject to interpertation and modification.

Oh man. That's Demo Derby exhaust. I've got to show this to Mike and John. Mike wants to derby my FWD wagon. John takes a SBC and transfers it Ford, Dodge, whatever. Smashes them up. Repeat. I want to hear it.

I need to post a picture...then have Nick do his thing with the Dial Bore Gage. " but the wear in the bottom of the no. 2 and 4 cyls is leading to belive otherwise." I've ran a 240 grit stone in my block. It has "rock over" wear top of the cylinders, top and bottom of the block. I'll have to take a better look at the bottoms. I'll run 400 Grit, then see what Nick thinks about it. Doug

Here's what I'm working with. Quality Cork, nothing wrong with that, except it gets oil soaked eventually. Below is a gasket from a Fel Pro set. It's best to check these. I did this cold with a small pin punch then pulling it out. If I heat the block with Mapp Gas, I can pull them out with my hands. If you're up for it, and equipped...Take a Mity Vac or something, seal one end of your pickup, pull a vaccum and tell me what you see. With the pan off and the oil pump out. Doug EA-82, top side of the nice windage trays. But, these are U G L Y. Bottom. Where the oil pickup and screen sit. Whatever makes it past the screen, goes through the oil pump. If you run a strong solvent in the oil in an old Subaru, whatever comes loose goes through the pump. If/when the oil filter has filtered all it can from the stuff knocked loose, it goes into bypass. Then it goes through unfiltered. Cut some filters open and look, I have. Edit: This "Permatex 81422 Hi-Temp RTV, 3oz. Tube JEGS The Original Gasket Maker We've all used it one time another on valve covers, oil pans, etc. and we'll use it again. Makes reliable ''formed-in-place'' silicone gaskets that resist cracking and shrinking. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability." At JEGS eBay is $11.99 plus shipping. YOW! I'd use it on a Turbo Car tho...

One problem with silicone is the cure time. If you can't let it sit...don't commit...Edit:That's not funny. People died there. Perhaps he used something like this. Permatex® Sensor-Safe Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker The original Permatex Blue. Will not foul oxygen sensors. Replaces almost any cut gasket. Makes reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker. Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans Or this. Permatex® Ultra Blue® Multipurpose RTV Silicone Gasket Maker OEM specified. Permatex® Ultra silicones were developed to meet today’s technology changes. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Outstanding oil resistance and joint movement values. Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration. Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, transmission pans, differential covers We need MOAR pictures.

It might turn out like a vinyl top. Pull it in all the windows, and roll them up from inside. Ductape holding it to the windshield. Might want to run some rope or something here and there. Did you get the driver's window back on track? If that glass isn't up against the weather strip it can leak on the seat. I've seen a Subaru windshield seperate from the adhesive. I've seen rust under the plastic trim and holes too. I just noticed that MilesFox has "Conqueror of RUST" on his avatar. Rust never sleeps. I'd have to take a pic of the duct tape thing. Stick to the windshield and the paint above the plastic trim, consequently covering the whole strip of trim. Side to side. Black tape across the top looks like part of that black at the top of the windshield. Pull the trim off and look. Or wash the car with lots of soap, turn on the fan in the car and you may see bubbles on the outside around the trim... Or. More silicone, or something. Doug

Do you have both of those heads? Two, for one motor? Doug

Hummm. Here's what I have on an EA-82...personally, I've never worked on a head that didn't have both valve seals. :-\ The intake and exhaust seals on the right came in a Felpro head set. They are Viton, and the rubber is black ish. The one on the left intake valve is Beck/Arnley. "Rubber"? part is brownish. I don't know what it's made of. Eight in the kit, put them on intake and exhaust. Selection is wide open on valve guides. I have this collection for a 1989 SPFI 1.8. I'm going to use the Viton Fel Pro on this motor. That is the weight of the valves written there. I'll need to wrap this up soon. hth...Pondering valve guides and seals. Doug

I took these today, Next is a test fit on a car. This is the hub I said was ground down...take that center cap off, insert the hub I ground into the front of that wheel... "PLAN? i AIN'T GOT NO PLAN." Something like these will work.

Hey, "Im not sure how I feel about having the heads machined w/valves intact, Ive never had that done befor, and am worried about metal shavings etc. I might take them over to a shop and have them inspected." Now this is controversal here. SOP is heads off, at least lap the valves. Machine shop? have then do a simple reface of the valves and seats. Your engine is an air pump. The seal at the valves, piston rings, guides, headgasket is where it happens. It's comes down to % as to how good the motor is, in this respect. I want and obtain at least good as new. YMMV Doug

Perhaps...HYLOMAR, in one of it's forms would do the job. " i haven't been a huge fan of the EA82". What's that got to do, with the price of tea, in China?

Transfers heat to crank, not to seal. Eliminates welding & regrinding. RMS Finish 12-17, ideal for seal. Lasts over 150,000 miles. These cost $5.09, plus shipping. The install tool costs $18.00. BUT. This is for rear crank seal only. Next time I need one, I'll buy the tool. After buying the tool, any EA-82 I want to sleeve, costs me the price of the part. BTW, with that setup, I can sleeve the rear of any EJ for $7.09. After buying the tool.

Hey Tycho, None that I've found are MLS for the EA-82. If I want them, I'll have to make my own. I can get Viton sheet goods, haven't found a DIY spray...steel shim stock is doable. Doug