Quidam

We skipped the step about pulling the dowels. Upper left corner, when I pulled these, I damaged the block. My intention pulling the pins, decking the block. Cylinder 2 and 4. This is the "best looking" side of the PermaTorque gasket we're talking about. I've never used one, but I'm sure it would do just fine, will even fill some of those imperfections. Right side where I have a pencil witness mark. This new head has a small gouge, and it involves the fire ring area. I'll get that fixed up for a SPFI I'm putting together.

As for Spray Copper. It's basically copper flakes and solvents, some tacky stuff. Copper is compatable with Graphite, no? Copper is very compatable with stainless. Question is, how compatable is the copper coat with aluminum. I can tell you now, I've used it on a steel shim headgasket, aluminum block and heads...may be some long term corrosion? IDK I wouldn't be afraid to use aluminum header paint on Subaru gaskets. Corrosion: All metals have a property called nobility. It is a measure of a metal's resistance to corrosion when in contact with another metal. A greater relative difference in nobility between the two metals in contact indicates a greater corrosion potential. Table 1.1.4 ranks the most common metals used in construction in increasing nobility, called the galvanic number. Table 1.1.4 - The Nobility of Common Metals 1. Aluminum 2. Zinc 3. Steel 4. Iron 5. Stainless Steel - Active 6. Tin 7. Lead 8. Copper 9. Stainless Steel - Passive

Between Speedy, Redy, and KWK, there is no front crank sleeve that would be an easy install in the car. I'm pretty sure I could pull it off tho by pressing the sleeve in part way, removing the flange, then pressing it the rest of the way on. Doug

Near Gospel here with "gasket slapping" is PermaTorque gaskets and 10 ft. lbs. over on torque. (Edit: And it is what it is.) Personally, If i'm going to do any of these I'm retorqueing. Takes that little extra effort and why not? I'm not gasket slapping. (Edit: I have PT here, and there is a time and place for those.) BTW, I can get Genuine Subaru gaskets for about $23.00 a set. Edit: at least right now here:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENUINE-PART-SUBARU-ENGINE-HEAD-GASKET-OEM-11044AA013-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d186524205866062874QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ400144915559 I've used hi temp aluminum header paint and copper coat on many head gaskets, old and new. Just not on a Subaru yet. Doug

Hey Peter, What's your skill level with wet/dry sandpaper, on a hand block sander and consistancy? Reuse the old head gaskets and spray them with Copper Coat. You would report back to us if you did this step, right. Or new gaskets that are compatable with Spray Copper Coat. Or something.

"Im curious what mine will sound like with a FrankenMotor swap :)" It will sound like a FrankenRu. Doug

I finished taking the flange off after I did this: This picture is deceptive. Depth measurements are 13/16", end of crank to crank sleeve flange. 1/2" Block to flange. That centers the sleeve on the seal, as you can see from the seal witness marks. The flange is actually in the center of that oil drain channel.

So, I took this today. If you look real hard, you can see the crank seal tension spring, between crank seal and the crank. The sleeve has a wall thickness of .010". I've filed that edge on the sleeve three times, and the crank seal spring popped out three times. I know what the problem is, and how to fix it. But, for this motor I've been debating whether or not to remove all the oil seal springs anyway.I need to take another picture, to show you something as to the spring popping out of the crank seal thing. That channel in the block drains the oil that comes out that side of the main bearing, and is how the front crank seal is lubricated. With the two block halves together, I pressed it to just proud of the block surface. This Genuine Subaru crank seal, when pressed any further then this, starts covering the oil drain channel. Edit:I installed this sleeve too deep to be flush with the end of the crank. It sits back some and creates a two step ledge. It's no longer a tapered smooth surface ramp type of deal. One problem is you need nearly every mm of that surface for the seal. I filed it again and put the seal on without popping the seal spring. With all the on and off I put a nick in the primary seal edge. Then I tore up the secondary lip on that two step. I'll finish it and install a another Genuine Subaru seal. My harmonic balancer tool has everything needed to press these seals in.

Hey, In short, what i'd do to install the front crank sleeve, in either direction: Fill any groove with liquid, powdered metal, epoxy. I'd use a popcicle stick and apply just a little more than needed, squeege like over the groove area only. I'd probably use non hardening Loctite 209, wiping the inside of the sleeve with that. Like you were talking about I'd install the sleeve before the epoxy fully hardens. I can think of several combinations of goo that would do the job tho.:-\ Doug

Ah, I see. So how much capacity do you loose with the shorter pan?

I'm not sure, but he would need to use the pickup that goes with the pan...no? Doug

Hi, I removed the flange on the front crank seal with Bull Nose tin snips and twisted it off with needle nose pliers. I went around that edge with a points file, twice. I dress the edge with wet/dry paper and solvent to finish it. Sleeve is stainless steel so it's harder than the crank. I took this picture to get the most bang for the buck, while I was doing it. Doug Edit: KWK-Sleeve Beck/Arnley parts. NOK front crank seal, Parut? oil pump, NOG main bearings, ACL rod bearings. This thing will be a Beck/Arnley motor...well, quite a bit. Btw, because I still hate doing it:) PLASTIGAGEing a Subaru is still relatively, a pain in the rump roast. So to speak.

Hi, Are you positive this is a Fuel Injection pump? They are higher pressure than a carb pump, more expensive too. Doug Edit: Because you posted this too: " SUBARU FUEL PUMP 1800 LOYALE XT COUPE 1.8L. 85-88 1880 & Loyale 1.8L CARB Engine , 1985 XT Coupe 1.8L

Wow, sorry for all you troubles but...This car you bought with blown gaskets. It may have been ran like that and hard to say what it went through. You ran it out of oil, it started making noise from lack of lubrication. Then it over heated again. Overheating takes some of the tension out of piston rings, and other stuff. Coolant in oil wipes the bearings out from lack of lubrication. I wouldn't try again. Not without a full teardown. A swap indeed may be your best option. What you have may be good for a core, at least some parts of it. In my life I've ran two engines to failure, both from lack of lubrication. One had a broken oil pump drive shaft which led to first, the pistons seizing in the bore, second throwing rods out the sides of the block. The other a leaker with bad rings and I ran it anyway. Ran it just to seizing up when it would run low on oil. I repeated this three times. Pistons were torn up on both of them. Severe scuffing. You may very well have piston slap now from all of that too, I don't know for sure, of course. hth Doug

The oil put in has no bearing on a no start. Doug

Hey GD, I removed some cam seals with a screwdriver today, but that crazy man didn't catch me doing it. It's an unknown if an individual has the skill to drive a seal straight with a hammer, without distortion. However, it's easy to make sure the seal ends up flush with the block, in this case. Same with the rear crank seal. If one can't install these seals flush with the block, they probably shouldn't be doing it. If you get a seal crossed up over a groove, it may be early failure time. If someone wants, you have that crank bolt to improvise a press on solution. Same with the rear crank seal. Uncomfortable with a hammer? Then press them in. Doug

Oh, YW. Yes, it pushes out the front, done that way. But, there's not enough material to fill the groove when it gets to there. But, Mfg. instructions state you don't have to use any goo if the groove isn't very bad. In any case, you could install them with oil as a lubricant, and probably nothing bad will ever happen. Tho I've never done that. It's just, filling the groove gives it "the whole nine yards" support behind the sleeve. As good as it can be, for the long haul. Doug

BTW. I find nothing wrong with the way you did this. I believe you said you used Permatex Grey? One step we skipped is the issue of where that goes, and whether or not excess can be wiped off. With the front crank sleeve, any excess material can be wiped out, regardless of which way the sleeve is installed. As you can see below, for a rear crank sleeve, whatever is put on in excess can't be wiped off with the motor in the car. Installed the normal way. That puts whatever was used under the sleeve, exposed to the crancase oil. If this sleeve was installed backwards, getting to any excess material is do-able. with the motor in the car, even. I'm going to tear the flange off of this one. Here's what it looked like before sleeve installation.

Yes. After snugging the ratchet down, taking out all slack, it was just a slight bump with the ratchet. Very low pressure and risk. You feel it sliding. Here's before I applied the Liquid Steel. This crank is worth sleeving, or I wouldn't have done it. I did it on the bench like this so people will know it's possible. Subaru's don't have to leak, seep, or weep oil, this takes care of that. I had a Camshaft sleeve on hand, it's the same as the Crank. Fully seated. BTW. Timken KWK-Sleeve, National Redi-Sleeve, and Speedy-Sleeve are all made in the U.S., are to my eyes identical, and I can't imagine there are three plants in this country making these things. The one difference I found is price. KWK generally lowest, then Redi, then Speedy. Notice below, all three are Part# 99147. TIMKEN Part # KWK99147 Min Shaft Dia: 1.49"; Max Shaft Dia: 1.496"; Installation Depth: 0.984"; Width on Shaft: 0.512"; Overall Sleeve Width: 0.669"; Flange Dia: 1.78"; Sleeve Material: Steel Front $18.46Add to Cart NATIONAL Part # 99147 Redi-Sleeve; Shaft Size Min=1.49", Shaft Size Max=1.496", Width=0.512", Overall Width=0.669", Flange Outer Diameter=1.78", Installation Depth=0.984" $20.99Add to Cart SKF Part # 99147 Shaft to=1.4960"; Y width=.6690"; X width=.5120"; Shaft from=1.4900"; Shaft=1.496"; Install depth=.9840"; Flange outside diameter=1.7810IN Viton (Only 4 Remaining)$25.79Add to Cart

The good news is buying Genuine Subaru for the bit of $$ they're asking is a slam dunk in this case. And won't hurt your wallet that bad. Doug

Hi, Have you ever heard that joke with the punch-line, "And that's how the fight started". ? It's like that with plugwires sometimes. There is one eBay listing for about $36.00. But it's a vague listing with a generic photo. They don't tell you if it's old stock or not. Old ones may have had EPDM boots at the coil. New will be silicone. It's to prevent leakage over the long haul. Here's the link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-Subaru-Spark-Plug-Wires-90-96-Legacy-2-2L-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d3381536223039592QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ260783987595 I've read the Subaru recalls for plug wires, and what they don't say is whether or not resistance was changed from old to new. Higher resistance wires are more prone to leakage at the coil. Which is a problem also with some aftermarket wires. BTW, as wires degrade, the resistance goes up, Subaru wires too. At any rate, you don't want the old style. Acording to that listing these sell for $42.95 at the dealer. Subaru plug wires come with stainless steel terminals, silicone boots, and silicone jacket. As far as I know. There are aftermarket wires with those specs, possibly without the stainless terminals tho, and if the resistance is in line with factory specs, they would do just fine. And that's how the fight started. Doug

"Now I sit back and wait to hear "Really? All you had to do was _this_ easy and inexpensive solution"." You take that sleeve and turn it around so the flange is outwards. I put liquid steel in the groove. Slide the two gears back on and then press the sleeve on to full depth using the balancer bolt. Back the bolt out and take the gears off. Twist the flange off, you will want to dress it up a little to take off the edge. Clean up, you're done. And it's all because of you! TYVM Doug

TIMKEN Part # KWK99147 Min Shaft Dia: 1.49"; Max Shaft Dia: 1.496"; Installation Depth: 0.984"; Width on Shaft: 0.512"; Overall Sleeve Width: 0.669"; Flange Dia: 1.78"; Sleeve Material: Steel Front I would think with this sleeve, you wouldn't have had to modify it? Doug