Quidam

Hey, Yea, it's not an EF-12, but EF engines were used in the same trucks. See how the spark plug wires are on the rear side? I would think the EF would be mounted the same. I'll see if I can find some more. And I'm talking about the 4WD models. Doug The Subaru Sumo, known as the Libero in European markets apart from the UK and Norway, also known as the Domingo in the Japanese market, was microvan produced from 1983 to 1998. In Sweden, it was known as the Columbuss. It was also called the Subaru E10 and Subaru E12 respectively due to the size of the engine. The Sumo is the Sambar with extended front and rear bumpers and a larger engine borrowed from the Subaru Justy. Because of these modifications, it doesn't conform to kei car regulations, which stipulate the maximum dimensions of the vehicle and the maximum engine displacement requirements, which then determine the vehicle tax to be paid. It was launched with the option of four-wheel drive and powered by 1.0- and 1.2-litre 3-cylinder EF engines based on those used in the Subaru Justy although in the van they were rear mounted. Somewhat unusual for a microvan, the 1200cc Sumo could be ordered with selectable 4WD, operated via a gear stick imbedded button. In normal driving conditions the rear wheels only were driven, there being no central differential to allow highway driving in 4WD mode. In 1994 , Subaru's Full Time 4WD was added to the options list with the ECVT transmission only and a viscous coupling. An oil cooler was installed on European versions to better facilitate light duty towing. Hey Nipper, The two axle stubs like your 2WD would drive the rear wheels either way it was mounted. The output shaft for 4WD of course points to the rear. In these trucks/vans the engine would be flipped or different case/shaft parts installed to point the shaft to the front for four wheel drive.

Hey Nipper, AH...I just found a pic. This one is a four cylinder tho. For 4 wheel drive, the shaft would have to point towards the front.

Hi Nipper, ? To get the output shaft to point to the front, you'd have to have a different trans case, with the shaft pointing the other way... I'll think about it, but it's either one or the other. Flip it, or different trans. parts. Doug

I was thinking about this and my thoughts turned to the Justy. Because if I understand it right, it's done from the factory with the rear engined stuff overseas. Flip the Justy engine and trans 180* and install it in the back, the output shaft now points to the front... Edit:The Sambar for one. "1994 saw a full model change with a body similar to the Domingo, with the EF12 Subaru EF engine The EF is an automotive engine made by Subaru, introduced in 1984 for the Subaru Justy.It is a water-cooled straight-3 engine with a belt-driven single overhead camshaft, and a chain driven balance shaft... three cylinder engine's displacement increased to 1200cc and SOHC borrowed from the Subaru Justy Subaru Justy Since 1984, Subaru has marketed the Justy, a subcompact hatchback, either manufacturing the vehicle itself or marketing a rebadged version by others... . A maximum seating capacity of seven was possible.

Hey, I had one low mile '86 with the same problem. I'm pretty sure it was a bearing. Gave the new owner a couple of columns to make one good one. Doug

"Gotta give my girl freind cred. for some realy strong welds and a great job putting this new motor together! Both have been heavily tested and still going strong." I second the quote of the year:) Blondie told me last week, "I'm a girl, remember?":rolleyes:

2400 lbs. soaking wet. Ruby Mica paint. '89 GL DR 5 speed. Motor is out right now. Doug Edit:

Hey Scot, Hey, red sedans rock:) On the Justy, the steering rack might get in your way? Doug Edit: Nevermind, I see the frame.

Funny. Like this?

Some of these posts are WORTHLESS without pictures.

Hey, Here's some anecdotal stuff for you. EF-12 Justy coil wires. OEM orange-10.96 (70,xxx miles and 19 yrs. old) Red-------- 6.18 Blue------- 10.13 ("SUPRESION CORE") Blue 6.5mm----.86 ('MAG CORE') Factory range in Ohms, 4.59-10.71 The distributor in the head is Denso for EFI. The other one is Hitachi for feedback with 2 wire. An Hitachi is used with a vacume canister for the '87 EF-12. EDIT: Hey, check this out. MPG/Plus Gas Saving Ignition Wire Set, Green MPG/PLUS GAS SAVING IGNITION WIRE SET <LI type=circle>Granatelli Performance Ignition Wire Set is GUARANTEED to boost your MPG to 15%! <LI type=circle>Boosts horsepower and torque and ensures a smoother running engine <LI type=circle>Rates 0-ohm resistance (compare to 4,000-7,000 ohms for conventional wires) Easy DIY installation Granatelli's MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set is an easy way to significantly increase your gas mileage…not a bad idea these days! Also increases horsepower and torque for better engine performance and a more responsive ride. The MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set features 0-ohm resistance solid stainless steel core wires plus an RFI/EFI Hybrid Protection Ring that prevents stereo noise and allows full coil power to reach the spark plug. The result is full power, a hotter spark, more complete combustion, better fuel efficiency, more power and better overall performance…without replacing the coil! Premium technology throughout: stainless steel inner core for high tensile strength, silver plated copper outer core for high conductivity, EPDM insulation, fiberglass braiding for strength, 500° silicone jacket and boots and heavy-duty stainless steel snap-lock terminals at the spark plug! Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Limited lifetime warranty. What do you think about that? I understand it all except, "an RFI/EFI Hybrid Protection Ring ". I need to know exactly what that means to Granatelli. If I remember right, these were the people who made good money in Chicago getting cars and trucks started in the cold. Points ignition. Clean, gap, and or replace. Doug Doug

$270.00 shipped. List as pictured, over $2600.00.

Bought a NOS transmission. ECVT from UTAH. Doug:banana:

Hey, Man, that's a good deal for 50 Kiwi's. Barter is coming back here like that...I traded a stainless rifle and 30 Bucks for a Subaru and a dog. That water choke, I've never ran one. I have experience with Motorcraft, Rochester, Holley, of all sorts. Now with Hitachi, some Tilison, etc. I need to take a closer look at Weber. Here's my Hitachi. I put a kit in it and soaked it in carb cleaner a couple of times. Had some deposits in the float bowl that a soak in vinegar removed. I need to take it apart one more time...one piece of brass that hasn't come out yet. It's up to about 30 pieces of brass in it, I'll count them the next time:) The accelerater pump is leather. I'll be adapting to a FI lower manifold. Doug

"You just have to get out the Mic." Me, I just do a quick Search and find out all the sizes I may need. I cross over a couple of MFG. as it's there for the looking. Gives me confidence it what I'm ordering. Doug:)

Hey, For EA I've used Timkin and Federal Mogul. RockAuto on the last one I bought. Doug

Oh yea, the hoses. Correct me if I'm wrong. Subaru used EPDM for the material. Better than the average hose, and I found and bought DAYCO for some of the replacements, same EPDM where other aftermarket are not. Of course, you can't go wrong with OEM. Doug Edit: "Dayco® Molded Radiator and By-Pass Hose Designed to replace OEM hose Dayco Molded Radiator and By-Pass Hose with knitted reinforcement and all synthetic EPDM construction provides the high strength and resistance to oil, mud, salt, road debris, ozone, coolants, and temperature variations of -40°*** (-40°C) to +257°*** (+125°C) that are required for OEM hose replacements. The inner base tube is reinforced with knitted rayon for maximum strength and burst resistance for the life of the hose."

Stock used engine, add some boost, after a short while: Doug

"flush/change the coolant. You may want to consider a new radiator........" What he said. I've never had an NA EA rust up the cooling system. I've torn down two blown EA-82T's full of rust. The iron turbo and aluminum produce rust and for this engine, coolant should be changed, or a additive package added at 2ys. A two core rad and intercooler will get you what it should have been new. A stock engine with that many miles will not be long for this world if you overboost it. Do a compression test dry wet. If it's not up to factory spec, you'll blow it up. Doug Edit: Don't just check the coolant, replace it. For all EA-82 the factory maintence is 30 months or 30K miles. The iron and aluminum depletes the anti corrosion additive package. Warm up engine, if you can't do the below fast enough, use a block heater to keep it warm. Hook up remote starter switch. Pull all plugs. Prop open throttle valve. Crank engine and read gage when it's steady. 145psi. is the standard for a like new engine. 117psi. is the factory limit on the lower end. But with even stock boost, you'll have blow-by and oil control problems. If it's not in the 140psi range, you may blow it up with just stock boost if you beat on it. hth Doug

Hey, I can't think of any reason you can't replace the valve seals on the engine. Of course, you need to know how. I have a valve spring tool for Chevys that you use in this situation, and I'm thinking you could fabricate something like that. Doug

"What are some 'recipe' suggestions for a custom FT4WD D/R build?" I'd locate the lowest mileage, best codition core I could lay my hands on. Seals and front bearing are available at rockauto, if needed. If I need syncros I'd have to go OEM. But whatever it took. Having a good core, replacement parts would be minimal and save money. Doug

Hey, Wondered where you went:) Yes, all it takes is money:) Doug

From a Subaru TSB. Sometimes the Check Engine Light illuminates because the computer detects misfires. Subaru released an improved spark plug wire set to solve the problem. The ignition coil should also be inspected for carbon tracks or short circuits between the contacts. Doug

Hey, I was just thinking and if your EJ-20T has coil on plug, you don't have any plug wires. Doug Yea, no use in my speculating, a good bet is to have the Subaru mechanic look it over and go from there. You have plenty of info to run past him. Again, I doubt that both engines are bad. Subaru suggests you look for physical damage to the wires. Check the terminals for corrosion. Test resistance with an Ohm meter.