Quidam

15K in 8 years or so is pretty low use. Every time an engine is shut off and cools down, there is the possibility of rust that forms on the bore surface, from about 120* F to 70/90* F. What you may find is the lower oil control rings gummed/seized up. Doug

I took a new EA-81 intake valve and reduced the O.D. of the head a bit, so it would drop into a EF-12 Justy oil pump recess. It's like the recess for the EA-82 oil pump. Flatened and polished the head, (combustion chamber side). Fill the center divot with JB Weld, and flattened that. Spray adhesive to attach very fine wet/dry sandpaper. Drop it in the recess and rotate, under water for lubricant, to polish and clean up that flat section. Rotate back and forth by hand i mean. Doug

Just recieved some closeout Beck/Arnley engine valves to round out a set. Genuine Subaru.

" and focus on the actual source of parts suppliers, and their relationships." Hey Miles, I have a Beck/Arnley head gasket here with the Subaru Logo. I have Honda for a distributor rotor in the Subaru made by Hitachi. I have new ITM badged engine valves with a sticker covering up the FUJI logo. I bought nine of those valves, and one of them has a Subaru logo still on it. Someone ground the logo off on the others. The NOK if I remember right is associated with NGK. For crossing parts over without a parts book, I just have used ebay. Looking at the listings will often show a page of crossovers. Well, just some thoughts. Doug

"the one cylinder was at 170... isn't that high?" No.

http://www.carburetion.com/Rochester.asp According to this, they have stopped making new, but it was Weber.

Hey GD, Yea, I've still got 4 of them. ebay one of these days. If I remember right, Edelbrock, or some company, started making new ones. Doug

"It just sometimes takes years of kicking and screaming before they come over to the logical side." People all over this world will continue to recuce, reuse, recycle EA-82. Pick up "NEW" parts on the cheap, use up what's out there. When I can pick up a "NOS" short block for $400.00, new set of heads for $325.00, NOS lash adjusters for $70.00, and on and on, I will build it and enjoy it for what it is. Hell, one person said something like, "I have a personal vandetta against that engine". People should just put it on ignore if it bothers them that much. For instance, I will never build an old time small block Chevy again. I've moved on and now enjoy the LS series. I don't hassle people who build and work on the other. I have my reasons, and I don't insult them for there choices, because that's what they are into, that's what they're willing to pay for. Doug

Hi, Yea, last two reman Hitachis I snagged of ebay were Holley. They are CarbsRUs, custom shop, etc. Doug

Hey, You could try taking out the idle mix screw and spray some carb cleaner in there and or compressed air. Just a thought, take the idle screw out and see what it does. Doug

Hi, You were working with two different length bolts on the EA-82. Did you replace the three short ones as well as the long ones? The EA bolts are 11mm X 1.25 and I know there is more room than that in the head, and could even be drilled out a bit. What is the tap size and thread pitch? I'm about ready to find some oversize head studs the right length and just Timesert the block myself. But, ARP does make Volvo studs. Doug

Bottom is a EF-12 head bolt, top an EA-82. Same thread, 11X1.25. Say I whack the bottom threads off the EA bolt to match the length of the Justy bolt. Then I wack the top off to match the length I need. Except I don't know where I could then get threads rolled into the hardened bolt, then heat treated. Got any idea where I could send a small batch and have them done? Justy has 8 per head. Sincerely, Doug

Hi, Just some thoughts. An over boosted engine has the compression ratio of racing engines. I know for a fact that .003 out of square on a block, under those conditions, will cause head gasket failure. I know of no one on this board who's ever said they had the block decked. If it's used aluminum, it ain't straight. TNT Total Seal top ring is what I'm going to use. A crank that hasn't been turned is needed. Tight control over clearances, and yes, forged pistons if you're really going to beat on it. New heads that have been cleaned up are essential. If it's boosted like a racing engine, it needs to be built like a racing engine. Doug Edit: I'll add that a used worn bore is a no go. Too many oil control problems, which lead to burnt pistons. The EA T thing reminds me of guys I know who used to bracket race with nitrous and good used junk yard small block Chevys. Spray them down and when they blow, get another one. Used or rebuilt engine, crank the boost up and after a while, there she goes. What can one expect? I wouldn't expect anything else.

Hey Dude, Yea, by design, a CVT is limited as to the load and torque it can handle. But I would think, it will be cheaper to replace one of those than a conventional automatic trans, because they are cheaper to produce. But if they mfg. it cheaper and raise the price, that might be par for the course:) I can't see where they will take a lot of abuse off road or with monster tires tho. Doug

The main jet range is about 47 to 81, and Quadrojet, Dualjet, and 1 barrel jets are the same. The Holley/Quadrojet thing is like the Weber/Hitachi thing. Holley and Weber are by design easier to work on, service, rejet, set float level, center pivot float, mechanical linkage if you want, etc. But a Quadrojet is a good carb, if you know what you're doing. Spread bore like the Hitachi, but it doesn't have removable/adjustable air bleeds and such. He could change it out for SPFI, that would be best:)

" We used to refer to them as "quadratoilet" :)" He should rip that thing off there and use an adaptor plate and put a Holley on it:) jk

From notes: 350ci '78 GMC. 64 primary jets, 39 primary rods. DP secondary rods w/.006 tip. 350 ci. Olds, 77 jets, 52 rods, DR rods secondary. Of course it varies with altitude and the particular engine, but you should be in the ballpark. The metering rods act as the power valve on these. I've got more, but i'll have to look them up.

"I use a bicycle cable and thumb shifter anchored to the 4WD shifter."

FYI, you were thinking something could be clogged. 5 of 6 Hitachi power valves I've pulled out are, totally, But that wouldn't effect the idle. You ever get a new fuel filter? Here's what the PV looks like: Oh, where did you get that fuel? You said after you filled up it ran bad, if I remember right. I don't think a loose throttle shaft is causing these things. Doug

" I would start by making those chambers smooth." Here's some thoughts about that. By doing so you're less likely to have deposits stick and cause pre-detonation, spark knock and so forth. You take out any sharp edges that lead to the above, detonation. When they get hotter than the surrounding material. You can equalize the combustion chamber for a more balanced, smoother running engine. Doug

FYI. Here's the original quote blownchevelle probably read from CCR website. "* Do you bore the blocks? No. In our experience, Subaru blocks should never be bored due to lessened abililty to dissipate heat from friction, resulting in lessened reliability." Doug

Here's a "remanufactured" EA-82, curently ebay. No cracked heads on a remanufactured, IMO. " 100% Replacement Of: – Pistons and rings for performance reliability – Gaskets to ensure proper sealing of the heads – Freeze Plugs to ensure no leaks – Valves, Seals and Keepers for like new performance – Journal bearings for like new performance 2. Cylinders are cut and honed to OE specifications for smooth piston travel and to ensure no out of round or rough cylinders 3. Crankshaft journals, fillets and thrust areas are precisely machined and polished on a state of the art polisher to ensure smooth operation 4. Rods are machined and checked for out of round, taper, and straightness 5. Heads are inspected for cracks, stripped threads, deck flatness and all seats are re-cut to OE specifications to ensure proper sealing of the valves 6. Cams are precisely machined to ensure proper lobe taper for long lifter life 7. All engines are run on a state of the art SIM tester to check for oil pressure, flow, compression, and torque.

"The problem is that you need a boring plate " It's not a problem if you're just rebuilding one. Rings, bearings, valve job. It's been done for ages. REBUILT. If you're remanufacturing, you have a plate and it's not a "problem". Or you have some very good cores and those areent that easy to find. Really, the question is, what does one consider rebuilt, and what does one consider remanufactured. What does Subaru consider remanufactured? It's in the FSManuals. Doug

Last time I looked, CCR doesn't bore any engines. I'll measure one of these if I can find it, they're fairly thick. Factory over ..010 or .012 is no problem. Unless someone gets the boring bar stuck. GD, you're stuck on EJ-22. Ok, lets talk EJ. What's the factory specs on that to be considered Remanufactured? Doug

"It's also typically not needed as Subaru bore's just don't wear out under normal use." Really? Do tell. Ram will bore any Subaru engine. You can even put genuine oversize Subaru pistons back in it. You know more than Subaru. Doug Edit: FSM talks about temperature rise and paying attention to it when doing cylinders. If one spins, it's junk. For an EA-82: FSM .0118" enlarging limit on the bore. Taper- Standard- .0006, Limit-.0020. Out-of roundness- Standard- .0004", Limit- ..0020. How big are the dips where the piston changes direction? How deep? If I remember correctly, Subaru recommends a max of .005 on one of their engines...forget which one. Stick a dial bore gage in the cylinder and find out. Doug