Quidam

Dirk, I ran into a problem trying to make my car faster. I don't know how much compression I can run on Sunoco 94 pump gas, and how my OEM computer will deal with all of it. Doug

Hey Dirk, I made a template so I can make the flange for the exhaust header. I can make it from 5/16" or 3/8". The tubing choices are 18 gage and 16 gage. To make my car faster, I'm going with 5/16" and 18 gage. You could do something like that. It will weigh less than using heavy stuff and your car will be faster. Doug

Hi Dirk, Well, there's my W. German 7mm Blue Thunder, multi strand copper core, EPDM, Kevlar, copper/nickel (monel), zink-plate steel, latex silicone plug wires. The only thing those LIMELITE .500 wires have on these is stainless terminals and that .500. I'm going to make my Subaru faster by lifting those valves higher. Since the compression ring is the only thing in my motor drawing the intake charge in, I'm going to help it out, so it can draw in more. I'm going to give it more time to do it's job too. That would make your Subie faster. Doug

Hey Kaz, Just FYI, this came from an '88 GL, 5 speed, 2WD.

Hey, I ran a 292 490 ERSON cam in a 331 inch sbc. Sweet, indeed. Doug

Hey, Here's mine, this is Canadian.

Hey, Check this out. It's a generic photo, but they make them for your car. They're called, "LIMELITE .500". The same color as your car! You could rock these. But in it's present condition, and if you have a new set of quality wires on it. It won't make your car any faster. Man, you should read their claims tho! But that .500 part, that could be real important, if you can ever use that Centerforce Clutch. If you get to that point, I could tell you why. Doug Edit: PS, read this: MPG/PLUS GAS SAVING IGNITION WIRE SET <LI type=circle>Granatelli Performance Ignition Wire Set is GUARANTEED to boost your MPG to 15%! <LI type=circle>Boosts horsepower and torque and ensures a smoother running engine <LI type=circle>Rates 0-ohm resistance (compare to 4,000-7,000 ohms for conventional wires) Easy DIY installation Granatelli's MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set is an easy way to significantly increase your gas mileage…not a bad idea these days! Also increases horsepower and torque for better engine performance and a more responsive ride. The MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set features 0-ohm resistance solid stainless steel core wires plus an RFI/EFI Hybrid Protection Ring that prevents stereo noise and allows full coil power to reach the spark plug. The result is full power, a hotter spark, more complete combustion, better fuel efficiency, more power and better overall performance…without replacing the coil! Premium technology throughout: stainless steel inner core for high tensile strength, silver plated copper outer core for high conductivity, EPDM insulation, fiberglass braiding for strength, 500° silicone jacket and boots and heavy-duty stainless steel snap-lock terminals at the spark plug! Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Limited lifetime warra They sure do talk sweet, now I want a set!

Hey, "what website can i order that off?" Rock Auto. Try 1986 GL carb. That gives you the resonator instead of the cat on the mid pipe. The muffler is 2" ID, most arent, if you really look at them. I've never seen these pieces in person and can't vouch for them. But If you order them, I'd appreciate your impression of them. Thanks! Doug PS-As you will see, they only have so many of them left.

"One thing I didn't read here is how incredibly messy the job of dropping the pan and changing the AT filter is " Just goes to show you, you can't even get good, (complete) free information, any more. Doug

Hey, "They have dimpled sheets that you can cut to size and glue down to your car" How bout I just find a Justy that's got hail damage on every body panel from a hailstorm, in Colorado. It would be stock. I was in a metal building at Fort Carson during one, and it was Loud. Doug

Hey, You said: "all you need is big power and golf ball dimples to reduce drag" If the rule book doesn't say one way or the other, then dimples are leagal. I believe big power would be what it takes, at the end of the day. NOW Horse**** won't walk Money talks Now son, go build that three lock box. 1 3 2 lock box

Hey, I looked all over a couple years ago, wound up finding only one at Advanced Auto. It was two inch I think, but whatever. It was one size too big still. If I need another: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH3 1 1/2 Inch x 18 Thread $7.71$0.00$7.71 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH4 1 3/4 Inch x 18 Thread $8.88$0.00$8.88 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH2 2 x 18 Inch $9.57$0.00$9.57 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH23 50mm x 21 Inch $10.20$0.00$10.20 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH1 3/4 Inch x 36 Thread $12.55$0.00$12.55 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH28 2 x 36 Inch $18.33$0.00$18.33 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DH6 40.5mm x 20 Inch* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $23.79$0.00$23.79

Edit: Hey Dirk, Check this out. This is a gen 1 EA-82 T head, has 104,000 miles on it. I can improve that same ledge shape, but it's no where near as bad as the NOS gen 1 head above. This car was never overheated, ever, I'm told. Hey, You said back there: "So why are these mods a good idea? And if they are, Why did Subaru not do them in the factory. They seem to be simple things but Subaru must have had very good reasons to do things the way they did." Simple things, obvious things. Look at the blue marker spot on the left intake valve, for instance. From the factory when they put the valve seat in. It has a verticle ledge about three mm deep. It has very sharp and rough edges. They are all like this to some extent. It's horrible, so why didn't Sibari fix that? I don't know. It just happens to be where the heads crack.

I needed to make a correction. I've never seen the intake manifold on the land speed justy, so I'm not sure what it had on it. I've never been able to find out. The runners are 36mm, exhaust ports about one and a quarter inch. Normally asperated i'd consider a 1 3/8" primary.

I don't know what happened, but this is not a good photograph. I took my Soobie intake valves out of the chem dip. They look great, fat margins, a little recession. My first choice is new ones, but I don't have any for a reasonable price. This head may see turbo, nitrous, 10 to 1 forged flatops. I'm almost positive the valve guides are done. The exhaust are always the worst. The take a beating. These are 7mm stem. Those Nascar guys run a 7mm, with bronze guides with internal o-ring for the seal. Edit:Priced a full dyno session with a motor on the stand. $500.00 local. I don't think I'll need it and it costs a lot. I'd have to have a reason. Guy buys a new Hemi block, stroker crank, 472 ci to fit the class. Indy cylinder heads and such. He blows two headgaskets befor putting it rebuilt on the dyno. They have it at 7000 rpm and it's putting out 650 hp when it blows another gasket. They tear it down and check the deck height, it's out .003. twisted. It's lived a long and fruitfull life since then.

There's what I want to do, next exhaust. Mid-pipe is a resonator, tailpipe is available too. I want no more Bosal, they pinch and choke the pipes to death. I've discovered Walker for these cars, and they do a much better job. With tailpipe too, this system is $141.00, plus shipping.

Hey Peter, Yea, and then there are the bearing type. GD has pointed out the opticals need the bearing for tighter control in that area. I don't see why a bushing wouldn't work there, IF you had tight control of the clearance. But mabie not? Old Chevys had a bronze bushing for the piolet bearing on the clutch setup. Way back when, I bought my first sealed roller bearing/piolet bearing to go with an 11" clutch setup. The instructions were clear about needing to check and make sure the input shaft was was centered in the bearing, or bad things would happen. Using cam shaped dowel pins, you adjust until you acheive that. Edit: Sintered bronze is oil impregnated, so I'm presuming that's what you would want for a distributor bushing. Doug

"Wow, thats awesome! I gotta talk to my machine shop now..." True story:) Last time I talked to a machinist, he said, "I think I need to see how much money you have first".

1990 SUBARU JUSTY GL 1.2L 1189cc L3 MFI (7) : Ignition : Distributor BushingPriceCoreTotalSTANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG69 w/ 0.627 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.25$0.00$4.25 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG67 w/ 0.627 Inch Straight Bore Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.93$0.00$4.93 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG68 w/ 0.6299 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $5.79 Far as I know, if you look up bushings for a 1986 carbed Subaru, you'll see these same bushings. The two top hat are different size I.D. Edit: That's .0029 difference. Philbin says .002 clearance, shaft to bushing max. That gives you room to fit-to-shaft. I'm going to be doing a couple of these. Edit: I bought and installed some generic bushings that looked just like these...for shifter bushings.

I don't know but, I've looked at it real close and compared it to the ones I have from the Hitachi. I'm 99% sure it would screw into my carb. The Weber jets are the same thread as the Hitachi but...how they seat against the body is different. Doug

Hey, I do, but take a look at the thread here. That's like a 2.5 boxer putting down 600 hp, or something. http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=1807

These are Webber power valves. Interesting.

Lower left, bowl vent solenoid valve. Lower right, anti-dieseling switch. I won't need either. These two are wired on the same harness as the electric choke. Lower center is the factory type manual choke cable holder. You hook the cable to a factory supplied arm to close/open the choke. It has an electric choke housing on it too. Top left and top right, I don't know what they are exactly, but I won't need them. Doug

No. That hasn't crossed my mind lately. It would probably cost me $30,000.00 to do that. Last time I looked. Sincerely, Doug But, If I were to stick a carb on each runner and use the injecter bosses for Nitrous, I think that would work. But I don't have any plans to do it. Edit: If I've got it straight, they turned that 1L Justy 9 to 12000 rpm, with custom pistons and stock rods. And don't get me wrong. I don't assume that record can be taken down with that money. Those guys knew what they were doing, I believe. You'd have to find holes, improvements. You'd have to take what they did, to another level. Because, in order to beat the best, you have to be the best.

What I did with my soobie. I stripped it this far. EF-12e, to me. Shaft mounted rockers very much like the EJ in that picture. Multi valve. And I was thinking. That land speed record Justy. 1.2L block and head. 1.0L crank. So that means they would have pulled that top hat off, stuck a carb on each of those intake runners with a simple adaptor. They ran within the 1L class rules slipping in the 1.2L head. I don't even know if that's true:) But...If the rulebook doesn't say it's illeagle, well.