Quidam

And my dog goes nuts again, whenever he hears it. lol One Hundred horsepower per cylinder? An EA-82 can do that.

I need the carb kit and a final cleaning/going over to assemble. I'll need more airflow and I can remove the choke if I need to. I'll need to rebush the throttle shafts and seal them. More airflow, knife edge the throttle blades, thin the throttle shafts, button screws. Will flow much more cfm.

They ship worldwide, $77.00. Pertronix. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200346157018&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT I converted my fourty year old rototiller to electronic ignition.

I don't know what the number is for these motors. Camshafts affect the numbers you see, but that's fixed unless you change it. Normally asperated, well, you take the cam that gives you the highest compressing numbers. Different opening/closing rates, center lines...so on and so forth. Edit: Chilton doesn't give the number for the earlier EA's that I can see. A 9.0 Carbureted EA-82 , the number is 161lbs@350 rpm. A SPFI is 168psi, due to the .5 higher compression ratio, probably.

I know where I can buy one of these for three hundred dollars. Program your ride to maximize performance. These Programmable Digital-7 CD Plus ignitions from MSD have an output power and Individual Cylinder Management timing system that are hard to beat. At the heart of these ignitions is a 15 MHz micro-controller that analyzes and manages every trigger signal. Their capacitive discharge circuits and state-of-the-art IGBT coil drivers work together to deliver a potent spark that can easily handle high cylinder pressures. Below 3,300 rpm, a series of sparks burn in the cylinder over 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation, producing a smooth idle with great throttle response. You can control all of this spark energy through an array of timing and rpm programs. These programs include: Individual cylinder timing that can program up to 10 degrees per cylinder in .1 degree increments, a launch retard that lets you retard the timing up to 15 degrees for 0-2.5 seconds after the launch, a launch timing curve, and a run curve enabling you to plot a timing curve in .1 degree increments per 100 rpm. They also feature a three-step retard, a gear retard that can retard timing up to 5 degrees with every gear change, a start retard, three rev limiters, a shift light, and an rpm-activated window switch. You can also map a complete timing curve for every gear, set stage retards to ramp timing, see updated X-Y plots with interpolation for smooth changes, view all ignition events in a new Launch History window, acquire 20 seconds of run data including two seconds prior to launch, program an rpm that is ramped in during the launch, and select vacuum advance and boost retard through a MAP sensor. They can be used on 4, 6, or 8-cylinder engines, and are supplied with the Pro-Data Plus software, PC harness, vibrations mounts, and wiring. An optional hand-held MSD Programmer Monitor is available separately. Edit:One of these just sold for six fifty. For racers with absurd amounts of boost pressure or nitrous being injected, the search for an ignition with the voltage and current output to match, ends with the MSD 10-PLUS. Ignition savvy racers will note that the MSD 10-PLUS isn’t exactly new as it is definitely rooted to the proven MSD 10 Ignition. Our engineers were able to take that proven performance and combine it with our patented Stacker Ignition (CD/Inductive) technology to create an ignition and single coil package with even more spark energy and voltage! The 10-PLUS coil is designed specifically to handle the CD and Inductive sparking characteristics of the 10-PLUS. This coil is completely hand assembled in-house at MSD with a segmented Rynite bobbin and unique windings that are capable of handling the 630 volts and up to 700 mJ of spark energy that the Ignition produces. Together, the system produces a spark that glows across the plug gap for 20°-30° and is assured to burn whatever fuel you can throw at it. The MSD 10-PLUS features a built-in Two Step Rev Control for an easy to set launch limit and important overrev rpm limit.

Here is a Crane Cams Optical that looks good. Tho you wouldn't have readily avaliable spare parts if you need them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-700-0292/SuggestedParts/?prefilter=0 It's a hundred ten plus shipping. Order the MSD adjustable vacume advance canister too, while you're at it. We'll need it.

I will run into fuel cut if I empty the float bowls. I'll use this for the dual fuel line, adapted to fit. It's three eights and I won't need those large fittings. It will point towards the drivers side.

If you have points...I'd convert it to electronic. I know Pertronix has an aftermarket kit for your car. $80.00 or so. Is there a Subaru distributor you can use? If you can make 200 hp with it, Centerforce has a clutch kit that will hold it. It's the same clutch for a Justy.

Ha:) Do you have a point type distributor? Theres vacuum advance, mechanical advance, total advance, so on and so forth. You want the major thrust on the power stroke about ten degrees after top dead center. You have to find out what the motor wants with timing. I had one that wanted thirty eight degrees total, not more or less. Over size and rebuild when/if you get around to it.

I just realized that, say if you have a clogged power valve with your Hitachi. If you stick a bigger jet in the primary, you can totally compensate for the clogged valve. There is a factory power valve plug out there too. So that's a tuning option for me. I could plug both those valves. Holley jet driver looks good. I can use jet extensions to move them out of that hole and easier to change. Of course, I can see in the float bowl so it will be easier to fish one out if I loose it in there. Edit: Fuel pressure regulator. This will work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260403874645&category=33555&_trksid=p4012.m8&_trkparms=algo%3DMW%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D20%26ps%3D63

Hey, check this out. Quote of the day. "I hope that's burned into your memory like a lean tune-up on Nitrous."

I posed the question to some Dyno Operating Hardware Engineers. They asked to see pictures of the bore. So I showed them this: Here, I took their picture. Those were some shocked people.

Which comes back to, why he can't go faster. I'm positive his car doesn't have the vacume signal it had when it was new. Re rebuilt it. The carb can only be it's best with the best vacuum signal. If he converts it to FI, it will run better. FI is an effective crutch that covers this up. He will go faster, probably.

Yea. I stripped it with only a Subaru screwdriver and one other after dunking it in chem dip, and multiple hits with penetrant. I need to get a jet driver. Webber jets have the same thread. It's going through the last dip and such. Well, the throttle body FI is a good and viable option. Take my choice at any given time. I'm amazed at the current technology technology with carbs tho too. It's not one or the other for me. How about this carb with stand-alone full MSD ignition. I was making good power with carbs before FI even came along. On the other hand, for the same power. Price complete FI system. Price carburetion. I can do it cheaper with a carb. Without a wideband. Doug

I recieved these exhaust valves today for my 1.2L, EF-12e heads. But I was wondering...The Just only has three exhaust valves. Guy sold these to me listed as set of 4. I thought it was a typo. I have 4 and they're not Genuine Subaru/Felpro. Made in Japan. I need another set of 3. What car do these valves go to? They are correct for the Justy but...I haven't verified whether or not the groove is what the Justy has. I'm easily amused.

"tore off the top of the carb and found a rust chunk in the bowl. cleaned that out and replaced the gross cork gasket with gasket paper i cut myself" Miles, on the carb. It's low mileage and a good solid core probably. Strip it and chem dip. Leave off the screen filter on the needle and seat. Get a new power valve and carb kit. You will be good to go in that department, I believe. Doug

Externally adjustable floats are doable with off the shelf parts. The needle seat is made up of six pieces on these. I haven't been able to source the brass floats i need. Doug PS-I'm getting old and I'd like to install a white led in each float bowl, with a switch. So I can see the fuel level, without reading glasses and a light, any time of the day. Damn, someone might think I'm really out there on that one.

My fuel inlet is filtered by the big screen. Each needle/seat is filtered by a small screen. If a carb car sits around, it will build varnish and such in the float bowl. From here unfiltered, it goes to that tiny hole in the power valve. I'm leaving all three out and drilling a bigger hole in the power valves.

Hitachi 4 Bore, that's all I can call it for now. This is a sophisticated carb. I copied and pasted that word, now look what happened. 26 pieces of screw in brass. I've got 16 out, need a different screwdriver for those. 17 mm accelerator pump. I've never seen another like it. But it's only got one. Mechanical secondary is not hard to do. I just wouldn't have the 2nd pump for it. The brass plugs you see is where I'll tap on each end for the dual feed lines. One for each float bowll. Externally adjustable needle and seats would be nice to have.

"Huh - I was only refering to the color of the top - where the harness plug is. I didn't think the color of the filter screen mattered since you can't see that when they are installed....." Ah, I didn't know that. I haven't worked on any of these cars yet.

Here's what I have. OEM is Denso with blue tops. Aftermarket new are green...far as I can tell. These feed about 25 hp each stock. This 1996 2.2 looks pretty close.

"Where have you seen blue/green injectors on a '90?" Hey GD, I was looking at them in parts catalogs. My 1.2 injectors are top feed and it looks like a direct swap with some other Subaru injectors. I'm just not sure exactly what fits what, at this point. Edit:STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # FJ386 {Intermotor} New; w/ A.T. $101.79$0.00$101.79 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # FJ446 {Intermotor} New; w/ M.T. $101.79$0.00$101.79 AIRTEX Part # 4G1536 w/Auto. Trans., MPI; 16611-AA090 $110.79$0.00$110.79 AIRTEX Part # 4G1535 w/Man. Trans., MPI; 16611-AA120* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $105.89 Now that I see these, those "blue" ones, with the white tops, may be the ones you're talking about. These are all new, I looked again and the re-mans are the green ones. Edit: And the pink.PYTHON Part # 638161 {#16611AA090} AT; MPI

Yea, all MPI. I missed a gear? Doug

"The AT / MT thing doesn't really make that big a deal as long as the ECU matches MAF sensor, IAC sensor, and injectors. The other differences aren't that big a deal. The above is only applicable on the 90-91 non turbo models." What I've seen for 1990 L is black, MT. blue, AT, pink, MPFI, and I don't know about the green. I'm going to read the reast of the thread now:) Doug

"Ha, maybe, but $1300 NZ is pretty freaking expensive for a few more ponies!" Hey, That would be mabie say $650.00 per pony. Damn. Easy now, my sense of humor is intact.