Quidam

Hey, This piston is from a 1.2L EMPI Subaru. I got it as an ex mail car with a bad tranny. I didn't drive it at all, but I tuned it up and ran it for a bit. It ran and sounded fine. The compression ring clearance-to- ring land is .0045. Factory spec is .0014 to .0030. Subaru says max .0030, believe it. This piston will be recycled as scrap. The extra clearance allowed oil to seep past and cause pre detonation. See the rough area up there to the left? That's damage. If I stuck a new set of pistons and rings in it, it would run great. That's without even correcting the bore wear that it has. It would still be rebuilt. Remanufactured requires boring, piston, and ring. IMO. And here's what happens. A turbo is installed, boost it up...and they do. Next thing you know, where you see that damage, the piston is blown up, caved in, it's done.

Both. Valves guides come into play here with the exhaust stroke. Valves are the second most important area. Doug

Ok. Now back to the compression gage. Now you have a street car. It's all relative. You might be low, and even on the cranking compression. Car runs good enough. Mabie a little tired, but what the hey... Consider this on a racing engine. As for leaking one down, the way you find out if you have a motor. If every thing is top notch, no more than 2% leakage. 2-4 not so bad. An average leak rate less than 5%. Now this info was givin to me, and I'm more or less quoting someone I admire. 5 to 8% is a sub standard seal. If the average is over 8, you don't have an engine, not one that wins in compettitive racing. "This doesn't sound like very much to worry about, but you have to remember that only 1/3 of the heat energy (pressure) developed by each cylinder is actually going to push the piston down. So, if 8% of the cylinder pressure is leaking away, you are theoreticallyy losing 24% of the recoverable flywheel horsepower." If the cranking compression of your engine suits you. Well, who's to argue? Doug

I removed the banjo fuel line fitting. It's 1/4" dia., a small return line goes with it. I'll plug this hole in the back of the carb. The passage that goes from this inlet, goes to each float bowl. On each float bowl there are plugs I can drill out and install fittings. It will be a dual line with no return line. I used to run dual line, double pump Holleys. 30 cc and 50 cc RIO accelerator pumps available for those. The carb top is and fasteners are in the carb dip. Well, just to give an idea of what's involved.

Throttle shaft to bore clearance is .005 primary one side, .oo9 the other. Secondary .004 +. All of them could be 4 thousand. Or .002. Or tighter. Air cleaner stud boss busted. I can't screw anything in there. The whole side is missing out of it. 4" base, where the air cleaner sits.

I've confirmed the numbers on the carb as: KCH 348-6, with 502 below that. Used a photograph. Same type ink or whatever as the Hitachi. A crapshoot if they're legible. So Mr. Carbologist doesn't know what it is.

So Mr. Carbologist says, after I sent him the carb number: "Are you sure on the carb number? That number is not in my book, I've sent a copy of the page on a separate email, Mike." Now, I'm not sure if that's the number. The number I sent him is what the guy I bought it from said it was. I've only got 1.5 power reading glasses, and I need 2.00 power, per my last checkup. I don't have a magnifier in the house. Edit: I do have a 45X magnifying adjustable led microscope thing comming, but here, read this.:" I will send out the item to your eBay address on 29th of Nov. Usually it will takes 18-25 days to arrive your place ,please attention to get it,For I am in backland of China,so the shipping and delivery time will be a little longer, " I have allergies that have got my eyes blood shot, Otherwise, I can deal with 1.5 correction.

That is the kit I need for my carb. I don't remember where I got the pic. I do have an email out to a carbologist, so we'll see. The carb does have a symbol on it and numbered in ink, "KCH 348-6". No power valves in the kit. It may be a Nikki carb.

Keep in mind brass floats are off the shelf for Hitachi. With a turbo, I'[d braze or solder small copper/brass? tubes in them to reinforce the float, so it doesn't get crushed. Like this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280330473247&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Here's my 28/34 carb, that's 56/68. As it came to me used, it has: one of the two power valves frozen up. Both of the power pistons are seized. I converted it to manual choke, but I have the option of electric. It has sight glasses on both fuel bowls, and twin floats. Steel needles. 2 primary and two secondary jets. Adjustable secondaries with a spring and two screws. I'lll go with the screw adjustable tho. The accelerater pump shot is adjustable. Edit: While I'm on the subject. The frozen power valve, I can't remove it without modifying a screwdriver to clear the pin. I would destroy a power valve it I force it with a flat blade. I'll have to do that before I go on. It's just not a priority at the moment. I've sprayed the jets, linkage, anywhere I wanted with CRC penetrant. I can't stand to smell PB Blaster ever again. I have allergies to it now, I think. I'd rather smell liquid wrench. Used it since I was 7 years old. Thees power valves are marked 40. Not exactly sure at this point, what that meant to the Japanese. P.S. I bought this, was described as: very large japanese carb hitachi? He says some guy told him, Mazda 4. He said "hitachi industrial"? I really don't know at this point. It's got glass windows in it. Glass is class.

Ha, a $10.00 Webber. I'd go for that:) I'm cheap.

"Before I do this I need convincing that it is a good idea. What are the pro's and con's?" Hook your vacuum gage up, go to your private race track, and floor it. Wind her out to 5200 rpm. Look at the vacuum gage. If it reads 0, you don't need a bigger carb. Take your compression gage and test it, if it's not good enough, you won't see a lot of up-side to any of these mods. Why? The ring seal is the only thing pulling the intake charge into the cylinder. It then pushes it up for compression. Next, it delivers the power and then evacuates the cylinder. If you have poor compression numbers, it can't do any of those other things well, either. "Things that I would like to do in the near future are: 1. Upgrade the carb. Possibly to an EA81 2. Build a free flow exhaust system 3. Remove some wieght from the flywheel 4. Port and polish the heads" If you're keeping the car awhile and your exhaust needs replaced, slap on a better one. Less weight can be good. Well, they weren't building a little hot rod. Doug

"If you do a engine swap and race it (at the track), you will be put in another class. But you will have a better engine to run with, with more upgrade options." Another class, I was just thinking about that. Whatever he puts in it for the class, it comes down to this: Will you have enough power to race and compete. Or will you have enough power to give yourself a good shot at winning. Doug

Sam, I don't think the exhaust has anything to do with it. If your driver side rocker cover vent/hoses out of it are clogged, it can cause what you're describing. Allow pressure to build in the crankcase. Doug

" Retensioned the timing belts, and went to check the timing, again, just to be sure...It was about 2 degrees! Reset it, and it runs great." But...did you even touch the tps, between tightening the belts and when you checked the timing? Doug

Awww, bring a tear to my eye. I knew this little girl, well, read this: Here's a truly heartwarming story about the bond formed between a little 5-year-old girl and some construction workers that will make you believe that we all can make a difference when we give a child the gift of our time. A young family moved into a house, next to a vacant lot. One day, a construction crew began to build a house on the empty lot. The young family's 5-year-old daughter naturally took an interest in the goings-on and spent much of each day observing the workers. Eventually the construction crew, all of them 'gems-in-the-rough,' more or less, adopted her as a kind of project mascot. They chatted with her during coffee and lunch breaks and gave her little jobs to do here and there to make her feel important. At the end of the first week, they even presented her with a pay envelope containing ten dollars. The little girl took this home to her mother who suggested that she take her ten dollars 'pay' she'd received to the bank the next day to start a savings account. When the girl and her mom got to the bank, the teller was equally impressed and asked the little girl how she had come by her very own pay check at such a young age. The little girl proudly replied, 'I worked last week with a real construction crew building the new house next door to us.' 'Oh my goodness gracious,' said the teller, 'and will you be working on the house again this week, too?' The little girl replied, 'I will, if those rump roast holes at Home Depot ever deliver the f _ ckin' sheet rock.'

28 32 Hitachi on the left. 26 30 right, carb base gasket. Let me know if I don't have this straight. The EA-82 manifold and carb bolt on to EA-81? But not the EA-71...to use the 28 32 on your motor, you'd need an adaptor plate? Doug

Hey Bill, Think about this. The person doing the pinion may offer a lower price if they're doing two of them at the same time. You up for something like that? 4.44. Hummmmmmm P.S. @ 8000 rpm Sincerely, Doug The pioneers, they're the ones with the arrows in their backs.

Hey, On Axle splines, more are better. If you pull this off, you will have the most desirable DR 5 speed in the Subaru world, in the U.S.

I want one.

"The only good EA82 short block is the one on the end of the anchor chain....." The Rodney Dangerfield of Subaru engines. I think he is like "The Anti-EA-82". A thorn in his side, for sure. Doug

"oh ok cool lol" Yea, now me...I'm working on a plan to go steal one of them.

I didn't mean for you to buy it. Just to let you know, indeed, there is a 2.3:)

But you're getting the new tires, radiator, alt... It shouldn't be hard or pricey to locate an engine. Doug

Well, here's the 2.3. http://www.ramengines.com/id2.html Who builds the 2.4? Doug