Quidam

I found this 2013 Outback, something like this may work. 2.5l with the six speed. I'm thinking that's not the DCCD trans? I ran across 3.90 final drive for the cvt. Same as the Justy ECVT. I've got three of those. 2010 2.5 cars are plentiful.

Here is the car. I've been looking at salvage cars and it seems promising. 3:7 geared pushbutton 5 speed. I'm wondering if a CVT trans would fit in a GL.

I have an 87 GL 10 wagon. I want 4:44 LSD and 2.5 L SOHCL EJ trans 4:44 automatic or stick shift. What donar vehicle gives me 4:44 and 2.5 L SOHC?

Here's the dog that rides in it. Might have been him whining...

The 4wd ECVT Justy makes some peculial soujds. Dsport mode changes everything. S[ray rubber works pretty good for acoustics.

You made me thinik about it. I'd put some in the doors and some in the rear quarters. What I've done is remove the acoustical covering from the hood. Usually fiber something. You would still hear the angry growl from the Justy. And the whine from the ECVT.

Yea, Dynomat is very heavy. I used it one time and at the time, I knew I installed a weight penalty. A 73 c.i. 73 horsepower ecvt Justy is fun to drive. It will do donuts until you want to quit. lol Awesome on snow.

" have found one one rock auto but want to see if it will actually fit becuase rock auto seems to not know what parts fir these old subies half the time. http://www.rockauto....jnid=661&jpid=3 I cannot see the connector on it, but i can solder the old one to it if need be." If I ordered this it would cost me $33.00 shipped. Plus I pay discounted shipping back of my injector. The listing is for 1987 to 1994 gl dl gl 10 Loyal. What kind of shape is your 29 YO injector in?

$400.00 at a place like Earl what's his name. Small car, in and out one day. http://www.maaco.com/our_services.html

Just something I've been working on. Genuine Subaru idler. I bought a GoodYear kit as well to have on hand, haven't recieved that.

I bought a 64 Chevy Malibu at auction way back when. I wanted it for the drivetrain. I parked it in the barnyard behind the barn. I was traveling a lot then and when I got back, there wasn't a straight body panel on it...except for the top. They liked to rub against it scratching themselves. A dozen 1200 lb. cows were involved. Should have took a picture.

Ran across this. You can just see the tips of the towing hooks. The lip is on there.

Here's the lip.

Edited original post by me to say, turn the disty clockwise. This retards the timing. Your car probably doesn't have a knock sensor. Even if it does, doing the above may help you get the ping under control.

Run the highest octane fuel you can get. Move the distributor clockwise if that doesn't fix it. Just some things you can try. Do you have a knock sensor on this car? hth

They could be machined, not sure how much meat would be left. Might be a good route, I don't know. I hand polished the bore of the rods I have and they fit like a glove. So, there is that. I 'll be drilling 4 holes in the rods. I can say, these are pretty good stock connecting rods.

Good time to update while it's on my mind. Ordered 10 each clutch clips and 10 exhaust studs, Genuine Subaru. Bought a set of Australian Headlight covers. I'm going to tint the ones I cracked with the stick on stuff, it will help hold it together where I cracked one. On the connecting rods without bushings...the pistons and piston pins I'm using had the pins fitted at the factory. They are a tight fit, especially with a forged piston, because forged expands more than stock type pistons. Here's how it works. The piston can expand and actually "lock up" in the pin bore. The pivot is the connecting rod at the pin. That's why you'll have more clearance there. That's why there are oil holes there. I think this will help some understand. One major thing to do on any engine with high output. Have the block and heads decked/surfaced, so that are square with the world. Don't do it and you've not done the best you can do and consequently odds of a headgasket failure are what they are. I've got a lot of parts I could install someday, just not today. I've got a list of things I need yet, I'll post in the parts wanted, probably next year:) Bought a set of Goodyear Gatorback timing belts to have on hand and a pilot bearing I needed. I've been wondering how good the Gates Powergrip belt kits are. Oh, I bought another set of hood pins. Locking and carbon fiber. 4 across the front. Later on

You can try removing the tie rod nut, turn it over and screw it back on flush with the stud. Take a 3 or 5 pound sledge and hit it square and solid. If you mangle the threads a bit, you can still take the nut off and clean that up.

It looks like this. From Rock/Auto, ​a CLOYES BK299 set. $61,00 plus shipping.

I've only seen one. New ones are about a hundred fifty. I'd like to have another one...I've owned three gl 10 cars. I get the impressionj that they didn't come on 85 and 86 cars. Doug

​ Item #10. rubber/metal lip/spoiler. I have one and it came on an 87 GL10. Sticks down about 1 1/2 inches. It's on my sedan.

Dual Friction - Clutch Cover & Disc (AWSL) (PN# DF504330)​ I ran across this at closeout price. 360 degree facing on one side, pucks on the other. Ball bearing pressure plate pivots. http://www.centerforce.com/products/product-detail/id/CTF-DF504330/name/dual-friction-clutch-cover-disc-awsl ​ $155.96

Hey, Just some thoughts while I'm at it. All exterior light fixtures are NOS except for the drivers side taillight. I'm in for a pound there. I polished a set of stock connecting rods, removed the bushings. Installed with those EJ 20 pistons and pins, here is what I'm using for a guide. EF 12 Justy engine has .0002 to .0003 clearance between pin hole and pin. Clearance between small end of rod and pin listed at .0002 to .0008. This motor doesn't use a connecting rod small end bushing. Using that as a guide, I'm going to drill another lubrication hole in the small end of the rod. Finished with shot peen and magnaflux. I'm going to take a full .020 off the block and pistons...still have .040 quench. A full .020 off the heads. Later on.

​ Just a couple pics from the garage. ​ ​ ​ Nasty surface rust on the NOS door. Ugly but not as bad as it looks. Rear air shocks if I want to use them. ​

You asked. Spend the small amount now, considering your situation.