Quidam

Hey, you could offer him at or above scrap value. That would be about $200.00.

A 2.3 will fit. Don't see any problem with a 2.4.

Hey, Looking good:)

"now that Im resorting to that, I might just have them cut/splice the 4.444 pinion gear that I pulled from the OB trans onto the RX pinion shaft..... Then I would have the ultimate low gears :banana:" Come on, why not? If you're doing this work anyway...more bang for the buck.

"Max Rpm would be higher but that doesn't mean your getting the most power at the max rpm." But...one reason to over rev the cams a little is for the shift recovery point. To recover in the next gear at peak torque if you can. Doug

OK guys, humor me here and then I'll drop it in this thread. Here's New Genuine Subaru pistons. A new set of Beck/Arnley rings. I have about $80.00 in the combo, and time, which is money. .0015 to .002, no more on any of the rings. Compression ring backclearance around .025.. They have .013 less back clearance then the Genuine Subaru rings. About as good as it gets, for off the shelf. If I were building the Ultimate EA-82T, it's clear that it would have to have custom pistons. Doug Edit: The only forged off-the-shelf piston I know of is the Wisco, sold (exclusivly?) it looks like, by RAM. These pistons should come in at .005, to 010 on the top ring backspace. It "should" come in at about .0016, compression ring to ring land clearance. If so, now we're talking. The most power possible, the most durable and long lived set-up you can get. Now, they've kinda moved on from the EA stuff and should the price of this piston set ever come down to earth, I'd be on it like white on rice:) I'd probably run the TNT gapless top ring for turbos, tho. I checked another set of B/A rings on these pistons, about the same as set #1 on the clearance, they're consistant at least. May be "Sealed Power) rings? They are better than the Subaru rings at sealing things up, on these pistons.

Hey, I'm going to add here, last engine I built after a 1K mile break-in, leaked down, 1%. Doug Edit: I tested that motor with a 100psi gage. Actually, it probably leaks a little more than that because I didn't measure at the 175lb pound cranking pressure.

If you would, I'l like to see your build numbers. Thanks Doug

Here's another, that came with the same car. It's physically larger, larger pulley. I'm wondering if this is from an XT-6.

Hey, Nice upgrade on the alt. I've wondered about this. I bought an 86 GL-10 and it had this in it. Along with all the other multi rib stuff that goes with it. Weird thing is, on that tag it's printed, "86 T". That's on the silver square, black letters, on the green tag. The car is a 86 turbo wagon. Doug

"I've had no luck finding a fuel pump for it though :(" Explain please. Thank you. Doug

Hey kid, Cool. I have a Genuing Subaru Ea-82 set of pistons in front of me. I have another that should be here romorrow. New pins, locks, and rings. I was pleasantly supprised today when I measured the 1st ring to land. With Genuine Subaru ring set, it's about .002 or less. With a Beck/Arney ring on the same piston, even less than that. These are made in usa. Doug

" I'm just trying to save the OP " True story. I knew this woman, and she said. "Why don't you save me, from myself. Come on and save me, no-one else...

Well now, that could explain why it's lasted this long. Or mabie they got lucky with a new set of pistons and rings. At any rate, if you tear it down, I'd really like to know what you have for compression ring to ring land now. A data point I can appreciate, as I'm building one and don't intend for it to explode. Sincerely, Doug

He Vagan, I hear you. What I said in my last post applys to an EJ-22 too, if you're racing. Doug However, I'll bet you that the majority of folks who have built EA-82Ts here, had no idea what clearance they had on the pistons. And, that their used or rebuilt motor had excessive clearance, for what they were trying to do. Doomed to failure. Doug

I just noticed from the thumbnail picture. This carb has a three position accelerator pump arm. Easy tune there, if you go larger on the exhaust probably max it out. Doug

Here's another data point on the throttle shafts and bores. I just measured a carb a friend gave me, it had sat and was frozen up. I freed it up and took it apart. I get .005 movement on the secondary shaft, passenger side. I get .007 movement on the drivers side primary shaft/bore. I get .011 movement on the passenger side primary shaft/bore. This carb looks good and has most of the plating/finish intact. I'd think, it would be good enough to run as is. It is a little loose, but again, I'm not sure how loose is too loose at this point. Doug

Cool.

"I have a pretty well set up ea82t but it's showing signs of being tired." I've been wondering when this post would appear. You're racing and boosted. The most important measurement in your motor is the clearance, compression (top) ring to ring land, and back clearance between the compression ring and the piston. I have a used piston here with .030 back clearance. Not too bad but, for your motor, I'd want only .010, if I could get it. You're pretty much stuck with what the piston mfg. provides here. I have a used Subaru piston here with .004+ clearance, compression ring to ring land. You'll want no more than .002, if this motor has a chance to live. If the top ring gives way, or leaks, the second ring, the oil scraper goes to hell quickly. That leads to detonation. And other stuff. Doug

It would be nice is folks who wanted it, could have Ignore EA-82 and EA-82T buttons. Less agrivation in there live. Doug

Injectors possibly. Vacuum lines, are they rock hard and cracked? Doug

Something else to consider while covering the basics. Put the vacuum gage on it. Period. I have 4 28/32 carbs. Two of those have inoperable vacuum secondary cans. They were being driven and leaking air. Test it with vacuum. I take a measurement with a dial indicator of the throttle shaft to bore clearance. The best one I have has .006 on the primary, .005 on the secondary. I have one with .025...quite a difference. If you pour fuel in the primary bore and it leaks out the throttle shafts, that tells you it's worn. How much clearance is too much here? I'm not sure with these carbs, but that's where the vacuum gage comes into play again. If it's too loose, the motor won't pull as much vacuum. BTW, with a blow through turbo carb, this shaft to bore clearance needs to be small and tightly controlled. Doug

I can see the linkage, didn't know a 26/30 was set up like that. Yea, try activating sooner. When you get to the limits, it will bog down. Back off from there and it can be a seamless transition with more power earlier. The temporary cockpit vacume gage is an esential for doing this work. They're about $20.00. Idle jet. Are we talking about the Primary slow jet and the Secondary slow jet? They mix air with the slug of fuel comming from the float bowl before discharge. Doug

Rock Auto, I had to enter for a 1985 GL, VIN 5. This is the kit you'd need tho. Doug FEL-PRO Part # HS9392PT2 {HEAD SETS (HS) are used for upper engine repair only, typically on a valve grind.} SOHC engine; PermaDry® molded rubber valve cover gskts. incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl. $113.89$0.00$113.89

How many miles on this? A new oil pump may not be needed. A new one is nearly always a desireable thing to have. If it has 150,000 miles on it, a new pump would last the life of the car with no worries. Yea, we buy them like that all the time. Use it as a bargaining chip. Doug