Quidam

It sat for a good while. I'd be looking the fuel system over real close. Check the injectors as yea, it sounds lean. Look at the fuel and filters close. Doug

" I have drilled out a number 45 power valve and installed it. The smallest drill bit I have is 1mm which is massive compared to the orgional hole. Will let you know soon what happens." Hey, I'm wondering if that power valve is rated at 4.5, would open at 4.5? None of mine are marked that I can tell. Mabie I ought to take a closer look. Changing it to 6 or 8 would be good I think. .039 or so huh. Next one I drill I'll try a 4 door. Four factory sized holes spaced evenly around the PV. Doug

Hey Dirk, Good to hear. Before the other stock jets, air bleeds, emulsion tubes and such come into play with me, I need to have everything else worked out. You only went 3 jet sizes over on the one you changed. Not enough to have the air bleed come into play. What I'd do is plug a vacume gague into the port above the idle screw. Run the hose through drivers window, or something. See what's going on with that. This: Is a screw adjustable vacuum secondary cannister that easily adapts to the Hitachi. Others available where you change the spring. The Hitachi can is sealed and non adjustable. Unless you change the spring rate from the outside, or cut it open, change spring and put it back together. All work. You're optimizing the secondary opening rate for the car. Screw Adjustable preferred here. Doug

"Just pedal to the floor as long as you like until the rev could not raise anymore, that is what I drive my EA71.:grin:" Come on, what's it turn? Those pushrods should turn 5000 rpm, huh? Doug

Here's what happened. I went to place an order at Rock/Auto, 8 items total and all ship from location Q. About $7.00 shipping. Went to check out and a charge showed up for $32.00 freight for the water pump kit, from the U.K.l Nice try. I didn't buy it. A Beck/Arnley pump is about $26.00, so not so bad. Doug

Hey Moosens, I didn't know that colour was called limelite. Here's a 28/32 Hitachi. That power valve is stuck shut, so it wasn't working at all. See the power piston below? It has three stakes holding it in. It binds up and sticks the way it is now. Cut the stakes and remove it. BTW, nothing less than a carb chem dip would get this all clean enough to but back together. You'll want to clean the brass piston and bore. Don't remove any material. Put it back together with moly lube or something and restake. I can measure the activation point with a vacume pump, fittings, and tape. That tells you when the power valve opens. If it's 8"vac it opens sooner than one that opens at 6. It's an area that can be tweaked. The vacuum signal. You need good fresh gaskets and I deburr and flatten mating surfaces of the bodys. Just lightly. Hook up a vacume gague. On this carb I plug the gague into the vacuum fitting right above the idle speed screw. It goes to the power piston and ports above and below the primary throttle shaft. Then through the center big screw right to manifold vacuum. If your engine doesn't have a good crisp signal here, it's very bad. Worn rings, cylinder wall, valves,loose clearance between the compression ring and the ring land...The carb depends on that vacume signal to work right. With a lumpy cam and a carb, low speed suffers because of that weak signal. That's where fuel injection shines. Doug

ha, idle jet. I need to sleep:)

That's for an EA-82T. Idle jet? Just at idle. Secondary idle jet? I'm going to have to think about that. You have two corner idle? I would drill the power valve out. These carbs have small ones and it makes a difference. If this carb is set up right, It willl hit hard. Small primary on a stock engine is better than a Webber, midrange about the same, and the Webber will give you more horsepower on the top end provided both are tuned the same. And if your engine can make that horsepower. But you'd have to use that adaptor, and unless you change the intake manifold...you're not going to get all that's possible with the Webber. The intake is too small.

Hey, Good move on the jet-driver and yes, the 5 speed changes things. In fourth you may allready be in overdrive...5th even lower rpm. Remember, the primary gets a shot from the accelerator pump to get things moving. Under load or driving fast near fulll throttle, the power valve bumps the mixture up. So the primary jet supplies fuel for cruising... with the addition of the other two when needed. Edit: Here's my newest Hitachi.

Yea, I should use spell check. You'll get a richer secondary mixture which is what you may need. You could probably go larger than that if you had the jets. No worries there. In general: That power valve opening is like increasing the primary jet 8 to 10 sizes. Say, from 14.5 to 12.5 air/fuel ratio, for economy, then power.

"If I have my foot on the floor and im doing highway speed in 5th gear what is happening then? Surely under these conditions there would be plenty of vacum? Or not?" Oh, you're welcome. What happens should be a low vacume reading. High vac at idle. If you have a lot of vacume at full throttle, your carb would be too small. Doug

This is a PV from a 28 32. I filed the bottom where the plug is then drilled the plug out. That spring goes on the other end, not where it is. What was left in this after cleaning could possibly break loose and plug the tiny discharge hole. I soldered a cap back on it and made a couple more holes for discharge. This was a test fit of the plug from an old marine carb, tilison? Anyway, it's also pre mod on the extra holes. Some carbs have multiple discharge "ports", some have large windows. Yea, new carb kit. Doug

The power valve is activated by the Vacume piston in the top of the carb. Air rushing through the primary side draws a vacume on the piston against spring pressure and suspends it above the pin sticking out of the power valve. When you put your foot in it and vacume drops to say about 6 in the primary throttle bore, the spring in the vacume piston is no longer overpowered by the vacume, and drops onto the power valve pin. That opens the power valve. Doug

Hey, The power valve opens when engine vacume drops to say 6 and dumps an additional load of fuel to richen thing up. That is, when you have your foot in it. Doug

I'll post when I recieve it as it's included in a pile of parts. Doug

Hey All, Thanks for the comments. I should have said this is for an EF-12e Justy three banger. This has a cast impeller, but every Justy pump I've seen is cast. I'm going to try it, as I can get it for $12.80. Doug

I'm ready to buy a water pump kit and the brand is Quinton Hazel. I'm wondering where they are made and if you have any experience with them. This is the company that produces WIX filters and I like those. Doug

"Hitachi Carb (cleaned and rebuilt to the best of my abilities)" Hey, Did you replace the power valve? I've cut them open after cleaning them the best I could and found gunk still inside. Doug

Hey, This was a secondary issue with a 28 32 Hitachi. Was only running on the 28 part and I could hear popping in the exhaust. Doug

Here's a picture of a EJ 2.5 rod that is stated as being cast. http://www.cgperformance.com/subaru_connecting_rods.htm I've read where the EJ-22T has forged. I think there are some fractured rods in the newer stuff but I don't know any details with the newer stuff. Doug

Left is EA-82, Right Justy. I took a ballpeen and tapped both of them, they ring like a bell. If I tap cast the same way it doesn't sound like that. Rod construction appears to me to be the same for both. The parting line is very much alike. I remember cast having a sharper line to it. But I'm not 100% sure the EA rod is forged. I'm positive the Justy rod is. I was counting on it being forged as I intend to turn one of them 9000 rpm. Doug

Hey, Here's a link I remembered where they state that the rods in a EA-81 are forged. They are a distributor for RAM engines. Ram states that they recondition the EA-81 rods. http://www.eaglesportplanes.com/subaru115engine.asp The Justy from the same era has forged steel rods with a cast crank. A Justy engine builder states that it has a forged crank from the factory, here. http://www.dustysjustys.com/performance.htm Doug

Hey GD, I just looked and I can't find a reference to the rods...I checked an 87 and a 90 FSM. So I don't know for sure one way or the other right now. I'm going to have to sleep on it. Doug

"Are the Turbo ea82 blocks forged rods and forged crank and cast pistons, or is it ALL cast?" Forged rods and rocker arms. Crank "special wrought iron", cast. Piston "cast aluminum alloy". From the FSM. Doug

Hey, Here is a 10 X 1.25 TIME-SERT kit, enough inserts to do two heads on an EA-82. It's $84.99 delivered. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TIME-SERT-M10-X-1-25-Metric-Thread-Repair-Kit_W0QQitemZ300334541262QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ed5569ce I noticed that these inserts are the exact depth needed...the longest you should go anyway. Link just to save time for someone, in case they're wondering about these. I get exhaust studs a dozen at a time from a local muffler shop and they have on-hand any size I'd need for about a buck ea...RockAuto has genuine subaru for about 4 or 5 $ ea. Doug