Quidam

Hi, " want to know if there is anything to keep a particular eye on." The doors, hatch. I try to spray/fog the lower fourth or so with WD-40. Water Displacement is good. Doug

"the ones near you are twice as expensive as the ones in PA, NY, VA, NH, etc. it may be cheaper to have it shipped in." Or pick one up on your trip? What I see here in the rust belt is that they go to the crusher. I mean, If a yard has a couple of open diffs in stock, and they're not selling that many, snag the low mileage ones and let the rest go. Mabie a board member can supply and install one for you? Doug Edit: One listed in my neck of the woods is $200.00. You will pay less buying from an individual. A 1K dollar Toyota engine at the wrecker here, from an individual was $200.00, a recent purchase. For about the same quality and mileage too.

Hi, Gary offered:"i have a known good 4.11 rear diff I can mail you for $75 plus shipping." I can't imagined that whole diff costing much from a junk yard either. Combine that with install at an independant shop, like the guy you initially took it to. Well it may run you more than $150.00. Whatever the cost, $250.00?, it's not that expensive. There's very few bolts holding that whole rear in the car and I doubt it would take more than an hour to install on his lift. I wouldn't rebuild yours at all. It's not worth it, they're in lots of yards and relatively inexpensive. They rarely fail, that's why. Was not my intention to insult you, just making a point. You will be rolling the dice with it on a 2K trip. Doug

Hey, I didn't see that thread. Funny comment with the cat:) My dog went a little nuts every time I played it. lol Doug

From the Justy ProBoard. It lives:) hope this works. http://www.ordi-service.net/justy300/essai.wmv Doug Build shown here: http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=1807

Hi domesticated, What you can do is just look at the oil as the car is driven. If it starts changing colour soon after, gets darker, your filter is probably on by-pass. It is a small filter. You could put a new filter on it at that point, then another, but that could get pricy. But if you're going to replace that engine soon anyway, you might not want to bother with it. I just found the clean solvent and air cheaper than replacing the filter so soon. It just takes a little time and I don't know of any downside. Doug

Hey, " after changing the oil (there was only a quart of sludge in it!!!) and filter", An engine with this description it probably pretty nasty inside. Lots of junk. With very little running your oil filter is probably clogged and doing by-pass. What I've done is buy good filter, I use PureOne these days, and clean the filter. I take it off, flush with solvent and compressed air and put it back on. You'll be amazed at the crap that comes out. Last engine I did like this, it was three times of R&R of the filter before it started to clean up. Doug

Hey, "What is the proper settings for the AC and Alternator belts? Do you have to re-tighten again after a few miles?" I don't know the proper setting for your belt, I assumed it had an automatic tensioner. A belt tension gague of simple construction is $10.00 or so and they work well. After you use one, you will have a good sense of what you need to put on future belts. Simple instructions and a tension guide is molded into the one I have. Generally tho, a new belt needs more tension than a re-used belt. New will relax more. hth, Doug

This from Subaru today: Increased Durability "Subaru vehicles are known for being rough and tumble, and being able to withstand years of tough conditions." I'm thinking the old GL DL type stuff is what got them that reputation, certainly not the 2.5. "We earned that reputation beginning with the way we build our engines." They are earning their reputation by the way they build the 2.5. "The flat design of the SUBARU BOXER® engine is inherently rigid, and we build each with great attention to strength and toughness. Also, power is produced with less vibration than other designs. An engine that is subjected to less vibration lasts longer." I'd like someone to explain to me how a 2.5 with open deck could be stronger than a 2.5 with closed deck. Any "vibrations" would be better handled with a closed deck. "It's no wonder 94% of Subaru vehicles we've built in the last 10 years are still on the road today1." Yea, try counting the ones that have had "work". I doubt if Subaru would be so proud of "That" figure. I know. Ouch. But Sincerely, Doug Edit: This needs moved to:"what up with these engines?" thread. Thanks

Hey, A 2002 Outback with 135K miles. "Engine overhaul at 115K miles, with new timing belt." http://parkersburg.craigslist.org/cto/1396466744.html Doug

Hey Nipper, "My 2 cents. Subaru itself admitted that the 2.5 (when it first came out) was pushed to the design limits. Since then they have beefed them up." They made choices. They made the cars heavy and consequently needed more power. They could have used more flat six. Built on the reputation of the early 2.2... Bulletproof 2.5 non interference, and more turbo. They chose to make it interference for more power and open deck. Big mistake. Used Subaru's with run to failure drivers. They'll be dropping like flys, or something:) Doug

Hey, I did one shifter with off the shelf bronze bushings from a hardware store. I drilled and hand filed some but works like a charm. I wanted a little tighter clearance on one set, but what I bought was drop in, no modification whatsoever. I left it, thought about using a tubular sleeve, but it was good enough. I like WOT power shifts and this mod "will" help you out in that situation. Doug

Hey Peter, Here's some numbers from an AU Liberty. TransmissionManual Automatic Gear ratio - 1st 3.454 3.525 Gear ratio - 2nd 1.947 CV Gear ratio - 3rd 1.296 CV Gear ratio - 4th 0.972 CV Gear ratio - 5th 0.825 CV Gear ratio - 6th 0.695 0.558 Gear ratio - reverse 3.636 2.358 Final reduction gear ratio 4.111 3.7 LineartronicTM CVT - I've driven a Subaru ECVT many miles and found I really like them. Linear, no shifting gears, it's instant. So I can see how it could rev that rpm on the highway. Linear. Doug

Well, If you're in LasVegas, you might be a gambler:) It would cost what...$150.00 or so to fix it now. Gear oil is expensive, so depending on how much it leaks in 2K miles, it could add up. If it disintergrates on that trip, it could get very expensive. I only gamble if I like the odds. Doug

Hey GD, Here's the only thing I've found on it. Seems this is the kind of information someone turning flywheels would have on hand. RHINO PAC is the only mfg. I've found posting the flywheel spec. It came up recently with the EA clutch and the specs for them. For your Legacy, it says "FLAT". "RHINO PAC Part # 15010R Brighton; Disc Spec: 8-7/8" OD X 1" ID X 24T, Flywheel Spec: FLAT; Kit Includes an Oversize Release Bearing and Repair Sleeve That Fits Over the Worn Aluminum Quill; Kit with Repair Sleeve". Doug

Hi, The CVT transmission may have a lower numeracially drive gear. I.E. 3.70 compared to 4.44, something like that. I don't know about the new CVT Subie trans tho. Doug

Hey, Here’s my take on it, just some thoughts. It’s a defect by design on Subaru’s part. Just like the situation with the Justy oil pump. This definition describes what I mean. "Definition 1. General: Frailty or shortcoming that prevents an item from being complete, desirable, effective, safe, or of merit, or makes it to malfunction or fail in its purpose." Years ago I found out the EJ has open decks. At the time I was sure, this can’t be good. It’s aluminum and there’s a saying about used aluminum engine parts. “If it’s aluminum, it ain’t straight”. I even thought maybe It was the influence of General Motors, cheapening the product to save production costs and all. A move toward the disposable car. Long story short. I bought a Justy many years ago. Had low miles, around 60K. I drove it another 70K before I even knew they were problematic. I had 130K+ plus when the oil light started flashing, especially after a hard run, at idle. I’ve read where Justy’s only lasted 70K miles or so. I attribute the miles I got out of mine to keeping the oil clean, something I’m compelled to do anyway. What I’m saying has been said here. Any of these cars with the proper maintence probably fare much better than the others. Oil, antifreeze, no overheating. The word that comes to mind, they’re delicate... handle with care. And when one blows, it’s more than “just gaskets”. Now I know these cars are very useful transportation to folks in many parts of the world. The AWD alone is a good reason to own one. But I really don’t want one. Interference engine, no 4WD, no HiLo range, no thanks. I just don’t “need” one that bad with all the baggage they bring with them. Just not worth it to me. Well, unless they were real inexpensive. Doug

Hey, That would be 4.44. You answered your own question, I believe. Throw in a good used tranny. Doug

Hey, "I notice that the regular EA82 4wd clutch and the XT6 clutch are the same diameter and spline count, however the EA82 clutch kit says Flywheel Spec: -0.827 and the XT6 clutch kit says Flywheel Spec: -0.815. Slightly different. I'm not actually sure what this even refers to, or if that's close enough to make a difference or not.... What do you think? It's only about $20 price difference." I'm thinking that measurement relates to how far the flywheel can be machined. From the pressure plate mounting surface to the clutch disc surface on the flywheel. I've got one here that measures 0.805. I looked and the only MFG. I saw giving that number was Rhino Pac. I would think the XT6 would require stiffer springs in the PP, but the clutch kits I've had and looked at give the same PN. Edit: I've used BeckArnley and they use one clutch kit for both applications. The price of those kits is consistant with them using the higher pressure springs in both and doing away with another part number. Could this measurement translate into more clamping force on the clutch disc? Doug

Hi, I checked on getting some Jeep tires shaved a couple of years ago. It spends most of its life being towed behind a motorhome, and had some funky wear patterns going on. Ended up at a tire shop in Xenia, Ohio that does race car tires. To shave them down, the price was $50.00 per tire. Doug

Hi, Most likely a bypass hose. If you have AC it's hard too see. It may be an O-ring on the coolant tube, about center on the water pump, drivers side. I know the DAYCO brand bypass hose is EPDM material like the factory hose. Gates is not, last time I checked. You can get that bypass hose at about any parts store. Doug

Hey Dude, Your rear wheel bearings are like this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220477738619&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT You'll need inner and outer grease seals too. Depending on where you buy, the seals may come in a kit. hth Doug

Hey, I've seen this before. EJ 2.5 DOHC overheats. New Gaskets and when it's all said and done, the motor "knocks". But...YMMV. Doug

Mabie rockauto? 1986 SUBARU BRAT GL 1.8L 1781cc H4 2BBL (5) : Engine : Oil PumpPriceCoreTotalBECK/ARNLEY Part # 0280248 [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 2 Remaining) $62.99$0.00$62.99

Hi, Single groove for the keepers? Like this: