Quidam

Cool. Back in the saddle again.

Hi '84, An older car such as this will start "without" a carb on it, if you pour some fuel down the open manifold. I don't advise it, but I thought you should know before you throw a new one on it thinking it may solve your problem. Doug

Hi, What you're seeing sounds like an "air-gap" front Y pipe. I'm not sure if that's the correct name but I had one on an '87 GL. This pipe has no heat shields and is a pipe, within a pipe. I ended up brazing the two together to stop the rattle after using a pipe expander on the inner one. You may want to just replace it. Doug

'How do you fix a crank thrust issue ?" Hi, You may not have that problem. The fix if you do would be a crank regrind and new bearings. Or a different crank and new bearings. Anyway, general info from my experience. I worked on one Ford that had this problem. I could push and pull on the front crank pulley and actually see and feel the crank move in and out. It would run fine or very badly, depending where the crank was at that particular time. Just something you could check. Doug

Hi Loyale 2.7, Below is an EA-82 28/32 on a JDM Justy intake. It's bolt on. Pretty close in horsepower too. Doug

Hi XOOMER, It's not lost on me that a new disc and TO bearing can be installed and the clutch will be fine. I've done that. What occured to me this afternoon was, the mileage of the vehicle in question, how much slippage, if any has occured, and exactly why the clutch is being replaced. I know none of that. I've went through clutch discs on a street small block Chevy before in 3K miles. Factory 11" discs. Of course, I was slightly younger than you at the time:) So I know what you're saying in that regard. Doug

"Sounds like a crank thrust issue." Without knowing anything more, it sure does. Hard to tell, long distance. Doug

Hi XOOMER, From the notes on my B/A clutch kit: Disc-Japan Mfg. NKK Presure plate-England. Not sure of the mfg. Release bearing-USA. Mfg. SKF Piolet bearing-Japan. Mfg. NACHI I assure you it isn't junk. No matter what clutch is put in the car, it's bad advice to not have the flywheel machined. If it comes down to it, possibly void the warranty. I'm talking about for a dependable daily driver, and if you don't want to mabie end up doing the job twice, or end up living with clutch chatter or things like that. I got that clutch at RA, close-out for a 4WD EA-82 for a little over $100.00 delivered. Doug

Hi, I don't think you'll be disapointed in the BECK/ARNEY clutch. I've used a lot of their parts and have one of their clutches. It would be hard to beat that deal anywhere. Doug

Hi, Another option. Rock Auto. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619205 Clutch Set, 200mm Diameter;7-7/8" Diameter;21 Splines;1 Per Car 200mm Diameter;1 Per Car [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty (Only 19 Remaining)] $54.79$0.00$54.79

Hi, Welcome to the board. Yes, non interference. Consequently, no bent valves if it happens. Doug

Hi, What's the mileage on this car? Wagon, Sedan? Transmission? Your car has a water and oil cooled turbo. One mod that's very effective is to intercool it. A car this age typically needs "all" the rubber hoses replaced under hood. Cooling, vacume, fuel, and so forth. If it hasn't been done. Post those pics, and don't boost it to the moon. Those rings have how many miles on them? Doug Edit: One thought. Do a compression and or leak down test on it. If it's not totally up to specs, any attempts to produce more power are worthless.

One easy thing to do: Put a vacume gage on it and see what happens. Doug

Hi, Yes, but I don't have my hands one it:). Look, logical place to look for the solution is the last place that was worked on. The head gasket job. I asked some questions about that... The timing. As it stands you were running 23 degrees and now 18...something like that. The Map in the computer controlls the timing advance. Not a vacume canister, weights, springs and such. Theoretically, you have 5 degrees too much on throttle tip in. You can see just how much dynamic timing the computer is giving it with a "Advance Timing Light". Look it up, or take it to someone who has one. Then compare it to what the factory specs are. Or just put higher octane fuel in it. In the end, if that's what it wants, give it to it. hth Doug

Hi, Was just wondering if the injecter flows as it should. IDK. Too many variables. If everything checks out, just run higher octane fuel. Doug

So who wants to machine some adaptor plates up? Kaz get a royalty:)

Yes, but...Have you double checked just the normal timing belt install? OTOH, one cam advanced? I'd be looking at the injector pretty close. Doug

I'd say yes. I can't see there being "that" much difference, if any in the spring rates. A big plus would be if the springs you use are lower mileage/newer. That will affect the spring rates. If they have 300 K on them, they're prolly toast anyway. Doug

Hi, How many miles are on this thing? Doug

I had 88 GL FWD front springs in my hand yesterday. I had 88 GL 4WD front springs in my hand yesterday. Only visual difference was the FWD springs had a taper on the top coil. Doug

What I did: Bought a tow rig and trailer.

[quote name=b16a90teg;802906 Well I guess i will be looking for a new EA82 for now. With all the research i did I figured Freeze plugs would be easier then having to take off the heads' date=' etc..[/quote] If you pop the rocker covers off, use a mirror and light, you can visually inspect the freeze plugs in the heads. If they're out, prolly in the oil pan. Last person I know this happened to, had a cracked block as well. Doug

Hi, Did they mill the head? It would raise compression a bit. They replaced the passenger side head gasket only? Wondering, Doug Edit: " When I first get on it, it will ping like it's burning off the built up carbon, then it's smooth." Hi Frank. "Any" ping is very bad. Beats on even the rod bearings and such. Doug

I quote you from your other post: "It had a major oil leak on the right head gasket, so I had it changed along with timing..." Did you see, or did you get a report on the extent of carbon deposits on the piston, head, and valves? Low mileage engine with this symptom, I might put Sunoco 94 in it, and give it an "Itallian tune-up". Doug Edit: I'd also make sure the plug wires were fresh and quality. Cap and rotor too.