Quidam

Hi, Good to hear it's comming along. Your question back a ways: fill the rad on an incline with the cap off to purge air. I let it off the ramps then put the cap on. Hope you get the heater sorted out. The belts...probably too loose. If they squeek with proper tension, they're too old. hth, Doug

http://www.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?add_item_id=1945369 Subaru OEM is about one seventy one at Rock Auto. FYI ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SUBARU-LOYALE-RX-XT-XT6-GL-10-FUEL-PUMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ200124415274QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ford pump. You mean like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400033263047&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

The first rad is plastic tank, copper/brass core, one row. The $32.00 plus ship Koyo probably is plastic tank, aluminum core. Still, I can combine shipping for other parts, and get it at Rock Auto about five bucks cheaper than that, delivered. The third, they want little more than a hundred, delivered. Or make offer. Probably make someone a good rad at a good price point. hth, Doug

FYI for peeps who don't know. The botttom rad is for EA-82 GL series. The top one is for Loyale. Different bottom hose. I've looked at a lot of radiators on-line lately. Talk about choices:) Silla makes a two row aluminum for less than two hundred. Some tanks plastic with aluminum core. Some plastic with copper/brass core. Pay your money and take your choice. hth, Doug P.S. I've bought OEM Subaru hoses, they're made out of EPDM. I've bought Gates hoses, they are not. I've bought Dayco hoses, and they are. I'll use up what I have and either buy OEM or Dayco for my cars. Having all in my hands at the same time, I don't want any more Gates. YMMV

Kaiser. ebay. I've considered buying this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=8070941460

I'm not sure that radiator you're looking at is NOS OEM Subaru. I doubt it. It's probably plastic tank aluminum core. You have no transmission heat load on the radiator. Still with a turbo, I'd want a double core. Both my Turbo cars have copper/brass dual core. That's the way I bought them. Weather or not you would "need" one, I don't know. Doug

ebay KOYO 45181 GA631 XT- 89-91 Loyale Turbo. It appears to me to be copper/brass...the description doesn't say. Same store as the other KOYO radiator you have listed. May be twin core? Don't know. Shipped to me, $192.50. Do you have an automatic trans and AC? BTW, I've found a quarter inch height difference listed twice between the Loyale style cars and XT. What gives? Doug

There are two, brass-copper two row radiators for your car on ebay. One new, about 250.00. One used, refurbished in vgc it says for about a hundred bucks delivered. hth Doug

I'd find another block. It wouldn't be worth my time and money. Just what I would do. YMMV Doug

The two plugs with aluminum reusable washers are in the heads. 14 mm, remove them. I flush the heater core with a garden hose, then blow it out with compressed air to purge the water. I garden hose the block through every open passage I can too. With the hoses all back on and head plugs in, radiator in, etc, I pour the new coolant and fill the block through the thermostat housing in the manifold, then put the new stat in. I also gasket cement the thermostat gasket to the stat cover. It stays on and if you have to remove it again at some point, it stays on that cover and is reused. Timing covers...when the bolts just turn and turn with nothing coming off, I stick a thick gasket scraper between the two pieces and pop them off. I then leave them off. I have a whole pile of them:). hth, Doug

Hi, Check eBay, Engine Parts house. ITM brand pistons. Can't vouch for them as I've never used them. hth, Doug

I think that's the worst I've ever seen. Doug

Hey, Total capacity: FWD>6.6 qts 4WD>6.9 qts If you remove the pan and strainer/filter, and let it sit and drip, you can add more. I'd guess close to 4 quarts doing it like that. Mabie a little more. Doug

Mike, sounds like you got a good deal. There must be fifty ways to get those bolts out:). Really. What you got on hand? I'm going to check on those drill bits Gary is talking about, sounds like a good thing. I have drilled one small hole before in one of those bolts, sprayed it with PB Blaster, let it sit awhile, and twisted it out with my fingers. Really. If I remember correctly, pay attention and you'll know when you get through the bolt "before" you ever touch the aluminum in the bottom of the hole. Well, I do remember right. You'll probably know it. If you leak it down, you'll find out if you have a viable motor, or not. Period. No need to pull the heads to find that out. 3000 RPM is a sweet spot with a Subaru:). hth, really, Doug

4WD vehicles: Replace fluid @ 30 months or 30,000 miles. "When the vehicle is frequently operated under severe conditions, replacement should be performed every 15,000 miles." I'd say they know what they are talking about. They built them. Probably with tight tolerences too. Doug Edit: "Oil capacity: 6.9 US qt" "When replacing ATF, the normal refilling capacity is about 2.6 to 3.2 US qt" This is just removing the drain plug, and you obviously can't change all the fluid in a drain and fill. The "filter" in the trans is called a "oil strainer" by Subaru, btw. This strainer is how it used to be done, before desposeible came along. Clean and reuse. hth, Doug

I just looked in the 87 FSM. What he describes comes back to the "Control Valve". The valve body. Doug

"Help!!! I need my winter car!" Well, did you check the fluid? What does it smell like? It's no big deal to pull the pan on these, btw. They also have a drain plug in the pan. Every pan I've pulled off of 3 of these has had a lot of crap in them. It's clear to me that they all weren't serviced proper. Deposits can and will build up and cause issues. Dextron has good detergents in it, but if it's not changed, it goes to crap for fluid. hth Doug

"there is a vacuum line going from the center top of the 3AT towards the driver's side, and it just ends. It isn't plugged into anything, and I can't see where it should go." That is a vent, so no worries there. Doug

"Good luck, I tried." And did good:). All there is to say. Doug

Here are three of those govenor thingies:) Top one I pulled today, 92 Loyale. It's good. Next, 88 GL, good. Then 86 GL, good. Three cars I've owned and none of them bad. YMMV As suggested by 911Loyale, it may need cleaned, unstuck. The middle one of mine needed freeed up. hth, Doug

"is fluid suppose to come out of the trans when replacing?" Yes. "*on hwy 3rd gear: doing 3300-3400rpm @ 55mpg, 3600-3800rpm @ 60mpg. is this normal?" Yes. Doug Edit: I serviced one of these transmissions recently. The factory gasket stuck to the pan, in good shape, and I didn't replace it. The filter is reuseable. Just clean it. Not sure what you had, and why you replaced them. Problem surfaced after the fluid change. I'd try another change of fluid and clean the pan and magnet well. Tranny might not have had the proper fluid changes and some crud built up. hth, Doug

"so can it be drilled out and without removing the heads?" Yes. I drilled, sprayed with penetrating oil and let it be for a while. Used a little heat, and they came right out. hth, be careful, Doug

"The salesman I spoke to at the direct store stated that prices on the "lead" in the batteries are going up due to shortages:rolleyes:" That was the case a few months ago. Price has dropped like a rock. Clean lead "was", about a dollar a pound. If you weigh different brand batteries of the same size, you can get a feel for how much lead is in them. Got to go. Later Edit: Had a friend with two gel NAPA batteries, wanted me to check them out. Slightly over a year old. I couldn't find a country of origin on them anywhere. I call NAPA, these are Deka brand, he didn't know. He looked in the book, the book said made in the U.S. . I wonder.

Big numbers too? jk:)

I take a lot of pictures, don't have a lot taken. Where I hope to be come Febuary.