Quidam

Hey, The 0W-20 would have been a mistake. Here's what happened. I've put some miles on it. Keep in mind I had 10W-30, Mobile 1 in it on one 90 degree F. day. I put the 0W-30 Mobile 1 in it and the same 90 degree day: Get this, at 3000 r.p.m. on the highway: It carried 45 p.s.i. with the 10W-30. It carries 3/32" below 45 p.s.i. with the 0W30. Consistant with what I've observed in the Chevy. There's a clue there:). That's with the factory gague and it's nominally accurate, it seems. However. With the 0W-30. When the engine it going for 5500 r.p.m., the oil pressure stops climbing a tick above 45 p.s.i. . Good enough for a driver, which it is. I would not run it hard, for long that way. I want no less than 10 p.s.i. per 1000 r.p.m. in something I'm going to work hard or beat on. Or a racing engine. I might even want a little more than that. Doug

That's a good thing. Put him under observation. Drive on, don't worry, he's tough. Doug

I might have missed something. However, an egr valve sticking open will cause the symptoms you described. hth Doug

We do get that cold here, just never know when. I'm not sure GD but decided to give it a go, see what happens. It could be a cold wet winter here. I actually wanted to try 0w20. I like what I saw from this oil in a tight 364 c.i. Chevy. Doug

Hey, I changed the oil and brakes about a year ago in my '86 GL DR 5 speed wagon. I changed the filter twice and topped off the oil as needed during the year. It doesn't burn any noticable ammount but the drivers side cam seal weeps a little. No leaks at all. The car has about 120K miles on it. It's time to do both again. I ran 10-30 oil last time, I put this in today: The motor would carry 45 psi oil pressure at 3000 rpm hot on the road. It's a carb motor but with good gas and the timing bumped it will rev and pull to 7000 rpm. 6000 factory redline. The car has small tires, I don't carry around a lot of stuff, and gets 30 mpg on the highway. It has no air conditioning equipment firewall foreward. I removed it all. Has manual steering rack. No roof rack at all unless I put my Thule on. That costs me a couple miles per gallon, last time I checked. I run one fan belt, tires pumped to 32 psi. Modified Hitachi, exhaust no cat. It has those light bumpers on it as well. Haven't had it on the scales, but it's light for a wagon. The brakes. I live in the hills. I'm not easy on brakes. Run through a set in a year, about 12000 miles. I had to fill the master cylinder twice during the year when the dash "Brake" light came on. I filled it two days ago. Today I got the ole front disk pad squeel:) Time for a change. Later on, Doug I've got the new pads and rotors in stock. I ordered a brake caliper kit for the right front from RockAuto. Crap. Forgot to order the rear shoes. Ordered a bunch of other stuff tho. I love RockAuto:).

Yea. And, that's a big window Chevy pickup in front of the Subaru in the top picture. The back window. There were three different configurations for the rear window...windows. One small window. One small, and two side... corner windows, then the big window. Just rambling. Doug

Plastic doesn't stick to rocks. Sincerely, Doug

Experience...the most through teacher.

Welcome to the Machine...real loud:)

Paul, I messed up back there. I wanted to delete the pics...didn't need them, and won't do it again. Thanks for the reminder. I vote for #10. Doug

Restore is an over used, out of context word, mostly. You can't get what you listed for 3K, and on a car with 240K on it... I'd be bidding on the seventy odd thousand mile GL on eBay from Arizona...or something. You asked:). But It's at twenty five hundred right now.

Looks like one I repaired. That one suffered a front end collision. Someone had straightened the hood but didn't replace the hood hinges. I had to massage the mounting area with a hammer too.

Looking good man. It's fun when you start screwing it back together:). Chemical strip, sandblast. Ready for primer, seam sealer, and paint. Not a Subaru of course...just don't give up:).

Hi, One thing you should know: The oil pressure sender is a BSPT and is the same fitting as some Mazda, Ford, and others. British Standard Pipe Thread. More than likely you'll be going from 1/8 NPT with any aftermarket gauge to the 1/8 BSPT male fitting that screws into the block, replacing the factory sending unit. That fitting can be bought on ebay and major speed shops. I got one in a cheap gauge set from WallMart one time. I bought it just for the fitting and tossed the gauge. It was much cheaper than the $15 to $20 I've paid on line for just the fitting. Doug

Uh huh. Wrench every day, and it becomes second nature. Or something. Zen and the Art of Subaru. Measuring bolt streach is consistantly dead nuts accurate, tho. Doug

"If it's aluminum, It ain't straight". Word. I'm back, kinda:) Doug

Assuming all is disconnected except the trans mount, linkage, and CV...do those and pull. You did take the radiator AND the radiator core support out, didn't you? If you pull the suspension, you're doing it wrong. hth Doug

Yes. Cause: bore rust. No. Yes.

I think you need anger management classes.

Edit:Borescoped the heads, SPFI and MPFI. /me still not clear on this point. Well, not absolutly certain on, oh NM:)

It might take me a year:) It's all about pressure. My estimate is that there's never been but a couple handfulls or less of serious EA-82's built. Built the right way. Tuned the right way. The ignition system. The fuel system. The cooling system. You mess one of these up making big numbers, that engine is toast. Run it lean, never. Too much spark advance for the fuel, never. Cooling system, you better have it together and figured out. And, a dyno is just a measuring device. Like lots of others. It ain't all it's cracked up to be. /me who has been sweating over an EA all day. Doug Edit: What I'm wondering is, has anyone here, first hand knowledge of an EA-82 block being decked?

check-headgasket: you drill and tap for head studs. you have the block align bored and decked, case halves pinned. replace the block bolts with studs. epoxy all studs in If you've done all that, it's got a chance of being reliable. Oh, 75 to 100 hp per cylinder. Doug

I'm making one out of wood. Really:)

Hi, I've ran an EA-82 with dual port heads, Turbo intake...and no carb, no injectors, just an open hole. Pour fuel down the hole and fire it up. Does that count? Doug

Hi, Boot kits are pricey. About $40.00+ per kit at parts houses. Autozone and RockAuto. You can't go wrong with dealer parts if the price is right. I have power rack boots on a v/r manual rack. They are too large a diameter for the boot to rack interface. I haven't seen a problem with the length tho. One board member suggested I make a spacer to use a power boot on a manual rack. That will work. I'd be interested in what you choose to do. Doug