Quidam

Tom, I'd do a compression test on it and go from there.

Which heads are in the best shape? I like the dual ports and Subaru seems to go back and forth on this, weather or not to use part of the head for an exhaust manifold. I like a port for each cylinder. Had some time today and worked on the head, which I'll need to duplicate. NOS EJ22 Dual Port, SOHC. I got to thinking, there is a reason head porting is so pricey! Being cautious as I don't want to ruin this head, I took hand in glove with some eighty/ hundred worn carbide paper. I had marked out areas prior and at the end of the day, what this head needs most is a pocket port. If you put your thumb in the exhaust port from the combustion chamber side, and the next finger in the intake port, those pockets. I took some pics today, dead battery. I ended up going over the combustion chamber and all the ports by hand. Took off sharp edges and such. The intake port on the other side from the pocket, the short side radiass Is pretty clean and a strait shot before the vavle. I did take the sharp edge of there tho. I have tootsie rolls and I get a chance I'll do some more. I'm thinking I'd like to ball hone some of these port at a certain point. I use a tub of hotter soapy water and submerge the head in the tub. With a cordless drill. I'm thinking enlarge the exhaust ports by an eight inch or so and see how it looks. Doug

I have an ACCELL 300 MSD box with a 375 box in addition. This is made for any car with a distributor and a carb or stand alone fi. I'll be using the large cap Hitachi disty with a mag pickup, altho I can use the optical disty with this for crank angle sensor... Anyway, map sensor, nitros, multiple rev control, spark retard, start retard, by gear retard,and more. Hand held display vac, boost, total control of ignition. Going on an EA 82

That sounds like a good low/normal mileage Subaru. And I wouldn't care whether it was a stick or not. Drive one, I don't think you will be disapointed, if the money is right.

What Tom said, use the bottom tap too with this method. Because it's important that it's done. Two taps.

You're not alone with the tuning thing, that is the problem. How do you tune it short of 2 K dollars in stand alone? A pro tune here in the states could cost $350.00 up. A small twin scroll turbo and tune is probably what you would look into but I have no idea of the cost of that, or availability. A twin scroll on a 2.0 hits boost around 2400 rpm, something like that. First question, what is your budget for this? All important question. Heard of Mega Squirt?

I've been thinking about the H6 past couple of days. I came from Wikipedia to here and this article I think has me confused on the years and what had what. My daily driver is a 3.0 24 valve, but not a Subaru. Now I'm thinking I may want the 3.6 for an engine swap. Anyway this Wiki states the second gen 3.0 came with manual trans? " EZ30D: 2999 cc DOHC, 220ps (161 kW) @6000 rpm, 289Nm@4400 rpm. Bore 89.2 mm, Stroke 80 mm. Compression 10.7:1. This version uses one exhaust port per head, a cable throttle, variable intake geometry, cast aluminium intake manifold, and has a 6500 rpm rev limit. It was only available with an automatic transmission. Found in the 2000–2002 Outback H6, Legacy GT30 and Legacy Lancaster 6. EZ30D: 2999CC DOHC, 245ps (180 kW) @6600 rpm, 297Nm@4200 rpm. Bore 89.2 mm, Stroke 80 mm. Compression 10.7:1. This version had one exhaust port per cylinder, a drive-by-wire throttle, a black plastic intake manifold, VVL and AVCS. It was available in manual and automatic unlike the old EZ30D. Found in the 2003–2009 Legacy 3.0R, Outback 3.0R and 2006–2007 Tribeca. EZ36D: 3629CC DOHC, 260ps (191 kW) @6000 rpm, 335Nm@4400 rpm. Bore 92 mm, Stroke 91 mm. Compression 10.5:1. Found in the 2010-current Legacy, Outback and 2008-current Tribeca. The EZ36D incorporated possibly the only implementation of an asymmetrical connecting rod in a modern application until the introduction of the FB25. The offset connecting rod was designed to allow additional displacement from the same exterior dimensions.["

Yea, the Pioneers are the ones with the arrows in their backs:)

Just something I saw and TPIWWP:) Ported 2ng gen orange heads, SPFI block, cat delete for off road and limited nature of this thing. Buggy with dual range five speed...Low fat:) Doug

This is a Stg1 kit, 4K plus dollars. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-Supercharger-STG1-Kit-Scion-FRS-Subaru-BRZ-Toyota-GT86-2013-/111108804058

Just ran across this for the BRZ. I think Visconti was making 400 hp with it...That may be totally bad info:)

Are you sure? I put 81 pistons in an 82 block with the 82 pin for a test fit. Ahh, the EJ 20. I have a car and I've been thinking of buying something like this with 4.44 5sp 190 hp. "JDM Subaru EJ204D Non Turbo Complete Engine and 5 Speed AWD Transmission 2.0L Complete and Clean Motor Set! Approx 36K Miles 1998 Model Compression tested at 130-135 PSI across all four cylinders Pictures posted are of actual item and not sample photos! *NOTE: THIS IS A 2.0L DOHC MOTOR WITH AVCS, I'm thinking that's what I want. That cold? compression test, those numbers look low to me. What do you think. '87 GL10 turbo wagon is what it would go in. By the time I source all the wiring ecu, and anything else looks like 2K might get it done? What do you think? Just stock swap.

I've got a new EJ22 head here marked out for port work. I'm just going to clean up where the factory left off, primarily above and below where the valve seats are installed. There are sharp ridges around the exhaust valve seats that need smoothed out. That's on the combustion chamber side, smoothed out without taking much material away, which would lower the CR. A good clean up in the bowls, cut away any aluminum left protruding into the port from the valve seat install. The protrusions from the spark plug access tubes in the intake ports can be shaved down a little. Well, that's a start.

The EA81 rod bearings aren't as wide as the EA82 bearings, one difference I know of. I bought a set of tri metal rod bearings for an 81 collection I have and compared them.

Well, I've been thinking about it. I don't have a Genuine Subaru headgasket on hand, and that's the only gasket I'd send him to pattern from. Right now I don't have a need at that price and not knowing the quality...someone would have to go first and spend the $150.00. And a new OEM gasket plus shipping to them. I'd be possibly one to do it next year. The gasket would be .030 compressed. SPFI shortblock stock, zero deck hight, tightens the quench to .030 from .060. Low lift stock subaru cams aren't a factor here with piston to valve clearance. There is quite a bit built in. Shave the heads the .012 possibly .020. Now the motor is around 10.0 to 1 CR with the quench optimized. New gen 2 Pink heads with a mild port job. What I had in mind for them.

Victor/Reinz makes a cork/rubber oil pan gasket I've wanted to try. Just tried to tack it on to a RockAuto order but shipping for it alone like thirteen bucks. That would make it $19.00.

I had a junk block and head with a headgasket and proceded to torque it down. I was so amazed at the time as I had put considerable torque on the EA82 headbolt. I started twisting the torque wrench as if it were a breaker bar. Around and around then the first headbolt snapped, right where the threads end up the bolt. New headbolts are inexpensive for these. Especially if you have nasty looking ones. I just go through them and toss all the ones that look bad and keep the rest.

Just some thoughts. Smoke on cold start, valve seals...you know, the valves angled up. EA81 valves come straight out the head, no angle. However, at least a good cleaning of the piston and rings would have been good. And yes, a fresh valve job that now seals tight can and will put more pressure on the used rings. The old rings and valves aged together and are both not what they once were. I'd check the seals on the valves pointing up at an angle. Doug

Been away from the computer over the weekend. Yes, that looks like EJ in that EA and he does mention the wrist pin diameter. I'm thinking, thanks for doing that and will get back to you soon. Doug

Looks to me like neglect of the cooling system played it's part in this.

You have the right idea in getting another one. It's hard to get all that powder out of one, and if you don't get it all out it has the potential to destroy all the new stuff you put in it.

Ok by me except, I messed the scan up and it's not exactly what he asked for. It's his graph paper !/4" scale squares and I had to tape two pieces together, adding...three blocks I think, on this one. I added five blocks on another. It's all so he can print out actual size, iirc. One example out of many with Genuine Subaru gasket. iirc I torqued the heads and let it sit for twenty four hours. Removed the heads, did a second retorque, let it sit 24 more and they measured. .061. I had planned on sending him a gasket if he doesn't have one, possibly buy twenty five sets or something if it worked out. I'm thinking there is a use for .030 thick for SPFI and carb. .060 for turbo and those who want to keep the stock SPFI CR.

No quote but I'd expect to pay a relatively high price for just a pair. Would be interested in the email reply when you get it.

I went through the first steps and got to here: But, it's not quite correct yet as to what he wants someone to send. Far as I got, for now. I want .030 thick headgaskets, like right now. Oh well. I've got my eye on an 'O2 Bugeye to put those pistons in. Doug