Quidam

Hey Dan, Don't know exactly what you're working on but...I pulled an E-82 long block out by myself recently, bare hands. After I pulled the intake and layed the whole deal up in the spare tire well, unbolted the alternater, ps pump, battery. The long block weighs 140 lbs, step over the radiator support, it's out of there. YMMV

I don't know if the Legacy one will fit but not much ATF will run out, certainly not all. Even if you pull the drain plug on the pan about 4 quarts will drain.

Hey boost, Look into your right rear fenderwell. The coverplate for the fuel filler neck and lines is in there. Pull the plate off, i think it's three bolts that holds it on. The bolts may break even if you spray them down with penetrating oil. I replaced one filler neck because it had a hole in it where the mounting bracket is located. Taking that plate off will allow you evaluate this area and clean it out. There is usually a lot of crud up in there. Hope this helps.

Hi boost, I've replaced one on a '88 GL, it was leaking internally. I pulled the vacume line off and fluid ran out of it. Don't know what they cost new, i just put a good used one in. It came off a parts car.

Correction: Hi Calebz, I'm pulling in the drive way today...i'd been out cutting firewood over at a friends house. Clearing brush as well. My driver right now is a '87 carb, Dual Range, wagon. I was in a rush while posting this morning, and i used to be blonde. lol I see the wagon in question when i pull in and it hits me...lol. That '86 wagon is Crest Brown, sunroof, 4 wheel disc, mint brown interior, digi dash, 159 K on the clock, 3 AT pushbutton, blown motor. And : It has a 19 mm swaybar front, 16 mm rear. I messed up on that. Sorry. Q

Hey Gang, I have a '86 GL-10 turbowagon. It has a 16 mm front sway bar and 19 mm rear sway bar. It appears to be factory as the car is bone stock everywhere. Just FYI. Q

Hi Tom, That's good advise however...this engine is going to get torn down and rings, seals, belts, heads all get worked over. I'm planning and EJ swap for the near future for this car. Doug

Hey Gang, Update. I pulled the motor out yesterday, dropped the oil pan and two freeze plugs were in the pan. One freeze plug out of each head...the ones under the valve covers. Back when this was originally posted, i drained the milkshake in the oil pan, removed the radiator, and put new oil and filter in it. I have started it up over the last year and changed the oil and filter two more times. The motor still looks good inside and runs great. Doug

If I don't want the AC, why bother with all that stuff? Oh, I used a factory alt. bracket from a non AC car, makes for a good mod. Just my two cents. Doug

Hello, I did this exact repair two years ago but...I took 2 '87 5 speed fwd shifters, used the best parts from each. The lower end of the main shift rod, the bushing shot in both. Gathered up a suitible bolt in the shop: about one half to five eights diameter by about four inches long. Removed the rubber bushing and slieve from the old shift tube (rod?), With anti-seize, inserted the new bolt in it's place. Good fit, but don't quote me on the size. Double nut for a lock, good to go. I have another I'll be doing the same way. Use the spring that is factory down there. Doug

it's my slug. Hey Gang, New to me '87 GL wagon with 5 speed D.R.. Car sold new in Pueblo Colorado, recently brought here so the body is very good, considering the age. Everything works on the car, even the A.C. 170 K on the odometer, no leaking oil, no seeping anywhere. White with the darker blue interior. Manual windows, March '87 build, no cat, no cpu, low power, the Justy I just sold walks all over it in a drag race. lol But...it has the "majic lever". It will do for now. Needs shifter bushings and the carb gone through. I've rebuilt about 50 carbs over the years. It does have the high altitude kit on it and it was suposedly deactivated. Need to check the timing, vacume advance. Got to be a little more power in there somewhere. Runs clean on 89 Citgo, book calls for 90 octane so a little more, quicker advance might be in order. Oh, btw, this ain't my first rodeo (Subaru) It's a "body in white" blank canvas. For power, 3.0 on the fender and under that bonnet would be sweet. Just a matter of time till one is available. Anyway, this car rocks off road in the hills, on the trails I regularly ride. I plan to take it to Snowshoe, W.Va. soon for skiing. It will do as is for now. Later on. Doug '89 GL sedan, 5 sp. DR (Ruby, from WVa) 208 K '88 GL wagon pushbutton 3 at (bad rust) 130 K '87 GL wagon 5 sp. fwd (Miami) 160 K '87 GL wagon 5 sp. fwd (parts, 329 K) '86 GL-10 wagon (blown engine) 158 K '87 Gl wagon 5 sp. DR 170 K

Get a Volvo? Doug

Just a thought here. A street/strip or a dedicated race car has the potential to expire on you at any given time. A whole different world than a dedicated daily driver. Since we're not talking a 20 K engine here, my preference is to have a nearly identical replacement ready to drop in. That goes for the turbo,trans,and rear diff as well. If you want to stay up and running with a minimum of down time. But I'd say you've considered that. Do it if you can swing it.

It's always a good day when you get new tires!

That appears to be 87 so...switch stations, run half 89 and 87, hell, even run some Seafoam through it, whatever it takes to get rid of the ping. It's not a good thing. Retard the timing a few if need be. Page 3 of your Subaru Owner's Manual will tell you what it's designed for. I have three in front of me for EA-82 engines. '86 and '87 is designed for 90 octane or *better*. '88 is 87 octane or *better*. I know to get the most power and RPM's out of any of my EA-82's some form of premimum fuel is required. YMMV. Q

Hey star, What are you running for regular? 85, 87, 89? Take it up one grade and stop the ping. My dailey driver will ping with 89 Sunoco. It doesn't with 92 and performs much better overall. Q

Hey Jude, There's more than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure. One Subaru parts car I took apart had a Subaru hub washer on there with a large lock-washer to fill in between the i.d. of the washer to the bolt with the regular washer on top of that. On my '89 EA-82 I removed all AC components under the hood, single pulley on the alternator with one belt. Used a non AC altenator bracket from the above mentioned parts car. People with functioning AC would have more of a demand on that pulley, especially at high RPM. I wouldn't want that pulley to move whatever way it's done. In the above case, it hasn't. This on a car I can shift at 7300 RPM, it starts stuttering if I try to go higher. Q

It's late and I'm fading out here but: I've had the front pulley off of 4 EA-82 engines. Only one had that dowel pin, it's around here somewhere in a Fuji film container. If I understand what you're asking, then no, it doesn't matter what position the crank pulley is bolted on. No timing marks or such there to index. To keep the pulley, washer, bolt, from backing off I dimple the washer on both sides with a punch and torque it down with some blue lock-tite. Old biker thing that. Have no problems with it. hth Q

Going through my notes today I came across this: 1 ea.-Oil Pump Housing Cover-$12.48 1 ea.- " " " Seal-$ 3.92 1 ea.- Oil Pump Shaft -$20.82 Plus shipping and tax. I don't remember exactly where on-line I got those prices but a few months ago, they were still available. HTH Q

Hey Mike, Try http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi and look at the heading, engine issues. From what I gather, the OE parts are still out there. Try another dealer. Q

Hey guys, Just thought someone has been there done that an I'm really curious to see what it is. I'll pull it out when I get the time and report what I find. I really messed up and this is the first engine I've ever done that to. I've got another I can put in it. Q

Pyromanic wrote:

Hey All, The car is a '89 GL Sedan with hi/lo 5 speed. Last winter,without enough anti-freeze, something let loose in the engine. I'm wondering if you can tell me what freezes and cracks and or pops out first. Block, head, freeze plug? You pour water in the radiator and it comes out the oil drain hole in the oil pan. Right now I've flushed out the oil and the engine still runs just fine. I don't have the radiator in it and drained all the water/anti-freeze. This engine would turn 7500 RPM and I've never heard it tick, even now. It came from West Virginia and shows 208 K on the odometer. It hasn't overheated. Question is, what busted loose? Q

Might as well consider: Tool chest pretty full. Mechanics tool bag containing heavy bulky tools. A small floor jack, tow strap, hand winch, tow chain, and other items. These all fit under the rear factory cover. 130 k on the spedometer.