Quidam

You could ask, but they are probably Jasper engines. I take it as just slow seller in the midwest with all the engines out there and rusted away bodies. I'm a gambler if I like the odds. I'd buy one if I needed it and I'd bet they would be just fine. Doug

Well, I got that wrong. Two of these are still up.http://www.ebay.com/itm/360722185752?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 One of these from the same seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Professional-Reman-1999-2000-01-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-2-2-Litre-4-Cyl-Engine-/200982111577?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ecb77a559

Last week there were two remanufactured EJ22s from Indiana put up on ebay. About $1000.00 ea. and were said to come from a local rebuilder. Clearance priced as slow sellers. They were sold the same day. It was Jasper Indiana. Doug

Well, I've had these pieces for a while and am no stranger to a disty. I found the single ear disty was a bushing type shaft so it is parts, the others are ball bearing. I have two complete distys out of four. One turbo with knock box, the other NA with knock box. Here's the basic turbo '86 disty. \ And here's the wiring. Large plug to knock box, small plug to knock senser. And of course, the knock senser. On a side note, I realized the XT6 is equipped with a knock sensor. I read where the SVX has one on each side of the engine. More Later

OK, took the vac can from a '86 carb hitachi disty. Housing is busted and it's for parts. it's adjustable on the vac adv. side and it bolts right up to the turbo disty. Lengthened the "arm" to fit by brazing, needs to be longer to work out here. The turbo disty is physically larger and that's the reason for the longer arm. The turbo vac can has a lot of parts to it for advance and retard. Retard not needed on N/A. I have a one ear turbo disty and two newer two ear distys. I had tenativly identified the one ear as an '85... So far the weights and springs in them look identical. I put the carb and turbo flyweights stacked together, and they are the same profile. The carb disty has lighter springs in the advance, I'll put these in and it will be better suited for a N/A engine, probably. TPIWWP, i know

One disty I have in pieces now. I took the mechanical advance assembly apart, as it was really gunked up. Much smoother now. Six ball bearings in there. Dual stage springs in the dizzy advance as I've seen in others. It would be hard for me to modify the weights with a different profile. This ain't no SBC, huh. But I can use different springs to effect the rate of advance. Presently there's 15.5 degrees mechanical advance built into the dizzy. These have the "big" disty caps, that's good. Sealed ball bearing on the upper shaft. I'll get an adjustable vac can out and see what I can do. SBC Doug

Ivan said:" have seen a ea82 na with 4 barrel rx7 carb worked well reved to 8500 was neat trick" Hitachi 4 Bore, 28/32. Hell, I didn't even know anyone who knew about these befor now. Only things stopping me from using this is that it's so heavy, and I need a new top for it. Carb is good, got busted up in shipping or something. I have about $60.00 and time in it.

Well, I gave it some thought. What was bugging me about it, a wire I remember seeing in a Chiltons manual running from the knock box to the ECU. I don't have the FSM for '86. It's the R/G wire for the altitude signal. So, it is stand alone. I have three disty, two engine wiring harnesses, one knock box. What I lack is removing the harness from the car. That, and I don't have a good vac can amoung the three. And for that I think I'd just buy an adjustable vac can and adapt it to the Hitachi. Shouldn't be all that difficult, we'll see. For all I know, I could have a NA MPFI disty and I'll check the weights and springs to see if there is any difference in what I have. I got that stuff all in one parts car I bought. The motor I have for this may end up around 10:1 CR. Doug

Yea, Their claim is among other thinks addressing feeding two rods from one main. A thread at NASIOC has them under review IIRC, so far so good. That said, the EA82 Subaru feeds #2 and #3 rods from the center main bearing. Doug

I'm not running it at present and haven't pulled the wiring harness. Mine is the Hitachi metal box from an '86 GL10. I'm electronics challanged but I don't see why it couldn't run as a stand alone on a NA EA82. Any feedback on that is welcome. It's not unusual for a NA engine to have knock control. I had a '82 Chevy Van with a higher than regular CR that came with it from the factory. Electronic Spark Control and completely stand alone with a carb. Depending on load and fuel it was very effective for keeping the motor out of spark knock. Doug

King would be another option. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-EJ16-EJ18-EJ20-EJ22-EJ25-King-RACE-Rod-Main-Bearing-Set-w-5-thrust-52mm-/370914557848?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565c3aff98&vxp=mtr

This is what I have from an '86 GL10.

ATSUGI Genuine Subaru EA82T piston. EA81 flat top on a surfaced EA82 block.

You could just use feeler gages with the piston at TDC. Or put a straight edge across the bore an measure the gap. I use a dial caliper and the depth gague feature of it. Would be interesting what that gap is. Yes, the SPFI pistons sit pretty much flush with the deck. In fact before I tore this one down: I put heat to the two dowels and pulled them. I put 80 grit on a sanding block and cleaned the whole deck off, rotated the pistons and hit them with it too. Zero deck.

Ebay pic of EA81T ITM. Jono, FYI, the turbo piston for the 82 sits about .017 above the deck. Valves are canted and the cut in the piston is cut on a diagonal, where the EA81 are straight on and I would think a flat bottom on the valve reliefs in the pistons. But I'm still confused about your pistons and that one of Tom's too. Only one seller on ebay for TIK and only for Honda. I have a carb block sitting in a buggy with the heads off, least I was told it was a carb block. The pistons look like SPFI. If it's a carb block I'd expect the piston to sit like .050 down in the bore. I don't think that's the case and now I wonder if someone swapped in a SPFI block. That buggy hauled rump roast with a DR 5 speed and only weighed about 1000 lbs. Any way, you all have any thoughts? Later. Doug

Cracked piston skirt on #3 probably goes with the head with the melted heat tab. That should melt around 260 degrees F and the adhesive holding the tab is supposed to melt around 350 degrees F.

Yes, I've seen that with old EA piston rings. Once you go that big on the bore standard V rings fit. Another thing here is your ring width. The drilled hole Ivan was talking about in particular, diagonal from the oil ring recess directly into the top of the piston pin bore. But sure, the slot is weaker than the holes I believe. The two engines don't share the same compression height, 81 and 82. An EA81 piston I measured sat like .040 below an EA82 deck. Tom, never seen that dished piston. Have two carb blocks though but haven't checked them out. On a practical side rule of thumb for instance. This motor for every ..010 difference in head gasket thickness comes out to about .1 CR increase or decrease. I'm thinking those might be 9:1 carb pistons. Just some thoughts. Doug

Jono, I've looked long and hard at your TIK piston. It looks to me like it may be for an EA81. The shape of the valve reliefs and location, the size and location of the dish. But, I could be wrong. Doug

Would you be willing to ship? Ohio. 45701. Greyhound? Any ideas? I need these!

Which DL series are we talking about here? Sedan? It's been done by a member of this board.into a Loyale type wagon. He had a lift...dropped the engine cradle enough to fit the two turbos. hth Doug

Man, I've done a lot of work on this, crunched the research. WISECO has an off the shelf piston that if I called them and ordered them without valve reliefs, would work great. Yea, I've got lots of numbers. Turbone I read that thread, got some thoughts will post later. I can do some pics now. Oh, I'm fairly certain I can fit an EJ20 factory piston successfully. And it wouldn't be such a bad fit. I can fly cut any valve reliefs. Depends on id there is enough dome thickness. Aftermarket turbo usually a quarter inch plus thick dome. Here's the specs on that Wiseco. Oh, scroll down and read the last sentence first. Part Number: K588M925 Notes: Pro Tru Pistons; Sport Compact Series; Set of 4 Pistons; Recommended RingSet: 9250TX; Rings & Pins Included Manufacturer: Wiseco Dome Volume: -9 Comp Ratio: 8.35:1 Bore: 92.5mm Stroke: 75 Comp Height: 32.66 Rod: 130.5 Gram Weight: 380 Product Category: Pistons VEHICLE FITMENT STARTYEAR ENDYEAR MAKE MODEL SUBMODEL CYL LIT FUEL FUELDEL ASP ENGDESG NOTES 1998 2011 SUBARU IMPREZA ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL Fits JDM WRXSTI EJ20 2.0L; 16Valve; DOHC; From 10/98 Production Date 2002 2005 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX ALL 2.0 ALL ALL T ALL 16Valve PRODUCT OVERVIEW Wiseco Pistons - Pro Tru Sport Compact Series: World renowned for our work building race winning pistons, Wiseco utilizes experience from a diverse background of the most sophisticated sport compact engines. Wiseco’s Sport Compact Pro Tru line creates the best value in forged pistons today. These American made pistons are forged and machined by skilled Ohio craftsmen with state-of-the-art forging presses and CNC machines. By using dedicated forgings specific to the final piston shape, Pro Tru pistons are stronger and lighter than industry standards. Pro Tru sets include plasma moly 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 pre-gapped ring packages which provide excellent seal, friction reduction, and long life. Pro Tru pistons also come in a variety of volumes that allow the engine builder to choose the exact compression ratio required for their engine.

How about seeing if there is any interest for a group buy?

Been working on a set of rods. Bushings out, lots of grinding so far. Then to the machine shop for shot peening and big end rebuild. The fatter pin is oem sti.

Ran across this, but those are 1 9/16" bores, dual line, double acc pump, mechanical secondary, base. Dude modifys them to fit, sells as remanufactured.

If you look around, no pin bushing has been done and is being done. Pin material is crucial and or the coating. Coating for the bores or the pins could be dry film lube too or diamond like. I have a set of rods I've reworked extensivly. I need to post a pic...There are ways to increase oil to the pins, clearances play a factor. Bearing steel pin with coated pin bores is what I have in mind. Pin bores are very smooth typically even after pressing the bushing out. I've got a set polished with 1000 grit wet after I knocked the bushings out. I chamafered the oil supply passeges in the rod end and chamfered the pin bore it's self.