Quidam

Phinzina wrote: "I think it's going to have to be custom manifold to get what I want. That's ok, shouldn't be to hard to make. The Holley website suggests a 390cfm carb for the 2.5l..." Well, I don't know much about the LPG ring or conversion part and I would think some form of Webber would work out for you. On the Holleys, here's that 390 cfm. I agree, it's a good street carb. 6 cylinder Ford with an Offy intake comes to mind. But what I'm wondering about is hood clearance. These drop bases will help there, even on a 2 bbl Holley. This 2300 series comes in 300, 325, 350, and 390. Probably more as there are several specialty carbs. Really, there is tons of mods you can do to these. Parts galore, boggles the mind really. That industry is fully mature and they're still making them. As far as cost, carb I would want for E85 would cost about $500.00. Sealed throttle shaft.

I've got more parts to put on...need more work:) Thanks. I've been wanting to get my hands on a set of these. I think I could mabie use them. From a Ford.

Hey, Never mind that off the cuff float bowl comment, doesn't belong here. Ivan, I've got a 4 bore Hitachi from a RX4? Anyway, it weighs 50 lbs with the cast Iron base. Need a few parts to complete it. Anyway, I'll read this thread again and see if I can come up with anything constructive. Next carb I buy will be something like this, 2300 carb modified for E85. I'd add a choke and clear sight glass.

Single inlet, tube to seconday bowl...do you believe you'll need the capacity of fuel contained in those two bowls? Side pivot floats, I don't like them in a carb like this....In short, this carb isn't a HP carb. Doug

four barrel all you want, I can take a 2300 two barrel Holley and run rings around that setup. It's single inlet, center pivot floats, metering blocks...and ment for a bigger engine than 2.5. The 2300 has the pedigree of a champion. Parts galore to do what ever you want to one. Race proven.

Ha. I can make more power with a carb than most can make otherwise. Trust me.It's simple. For less money. Doug

Just found this thread yesterday. Here's the specs on a piston I have installed at the moment in an EA82.I installed top and second rings and the inner pin lock. I installed a .065 headgasket and snugged the head bolts down, installed the cam case. Rotated cam both ways, valve interference with that dome. I hand polished the pin bore after knocking out the bushing. I also upgraded the piston pins to a thinner "bearing steel". The piston sits .020 above the deck, I'm not positive how much I took off this block...mabie .006? I've repeated the camcase to heads off and on a few times. I stacked two headgaskets and bolted it together with no valve to piston interference. Of course, using two of those headgaskets wouldn't work for me. Too much piston to head clearance. Anyway, conclusion, I'd need to have the pistons fly cut for valve clearance. and the piston doesn't fit the combustion chamber. It's adds quench in that trench that circles around them. I can get .040 quench. piston to head, with this piston. That's right where it should be for the piston. Anyway, when I pull it apart again, I'm selling these. Brand new, unused set of ARIAS Custom Pistons for Subaru EJ20 WRX 2.0 liter, with turbo, supercharger and/or NOS. Fits stock OEM Subaru sleeve bore, no boring required. Brand: ARIAS PISTONS Material: Forged 2618 non-silicon Bore diameter in./mm: 3.622 / 92 (OEM) Stroke in./mm: 2.953 / 75 (OEM) Compression ratio: 8.5:1 Crown style: Thermal dish Compression height: 1.295 in. Pin diameter: .905 in. (OEM) Wrist Pin Style: Floating Pin brand: ARIAS 1018 Ring brand: ARIAS 1.2-1.5-4.0mm Pin Material: 1018 case hardened Weight Matched Set: Yes Quantity: Sold as a set of 4 (pistons, pins, rings, single locks) These ARIAS pistons were custom made in batches of 40 for a customer who declined the order. The pistons, pins, rings and locks are in new excellent condition. They are precision machined and fitted with a medium-duty pin guaranteed up to 20 pounds boost. Stronger pins are available - please email for an additional quote. This application is not available in the ARIAS catalog as a shelf part number. Comparable sets cost up to $585 on the ARIAS website. Five (5) kits are available.

This has been my experience with '86 to '89 GL, and GL10s. While recycling one or just tearing it all apart, I find roaches.. Doug

Here's something I saw a while back. Rear shocks for EA82, slide in a spacer. But I haven't had the need to do so. Doug

Haven't done much to it lately. But, here's some pics. EJ20 ARIAS piston. Just started on this section...ported the water inlets, bigger, all enlarged. Doug

Just throwing this out there...as I know a bit about pushrods. A checker adjustable push rod can be had from many sources. With it you measure how long your pushrod needs to be. I had one but got a car with a non adjustable valve train and it had a slight tick on one cam lobe only. Well, I put that checker in and never looked back. I take it you're dealing with aluminum push rods which I've never laid eyes on. Anyway for instance. Empi has a VW bug kit for $65.00. It's only the tip of the ice burg of what's out there from multiple sources for lots of vehicles. Chromoly push rods are lighter and stronger than regular steel push rods. The 3/8" tubing offers maximum strength to maintain no flex operation at higher RPM’s under the stress of high lift cams and high-rev. valve springs. Custom Cut-to-Length style. 4034 -Cut to Length, 11.600" Long, 3/8" Chromoly Push Rods, Set of 8

I looked at the PAECO web site yesterday and they do offer new pushrods, custom length, for $24.00 each. Ouch.

I've got a Loyale EA I'm tearing down and I'll see what's in that. '88 and '89 I have in hand has slots, not drilled. I'd like to see one, anybody got a pic of one?

Something to keep in mind. A hi po build like you're doing benifits from tight quench, piston to head clearance. You can probably go as close as .025 with this build, but not any tighter. That's IF you have enough valve to piston clearance. The tighter the quench makes it less likely to "ping". The FelPro gasket is probably just a regular head gasket coated with teflon, hence the greater thickness. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them except the drop in compression AND adds .010 to piston to head clearance. It's good to have a choice where adjustments need to be made. I'd actually like to see someone make a .030 thick gasket for the EA 82...instant compression jump, tightens the quench to .030, and with our low lift cams, plenty of room for it, piston to valve. Just some thoughts, hth. Doug Edit: Keep in mind with your pushrod engine, when you deck the block and/or heads, it alters the valvetrain geometry. I have used adjustable pushrods before in an Oldsmobile, and custom pushrods are readily available for other makes, probably not for your engine though. Look at the rocker arm pad where it pushes on the valve. You'll notice the wear pattern is centered on the pad. I've used prussian blue and even a sharpie to check this during assembly. With shaved deck and heads that pattern shifts to a different spot. In short it sideloads the pressure on the valve guides and increases wear on the guides and is not a smooth action compared to being centered. Oil...I would use a break in oil with your reground cam, more zinc and phos. Highest point of friction in your engine is at the cam lifter interface. Insurance against wiped out cam lobes. Just thinking...hth

Is this car an 1988 with the optical distributor? I swapped an '88 ECU into a Loyale SPFI 3AT 4WD. I put a vac gage on it and advanced the distributor to the highest vac reading. Ran it for a while with a mix of between 87 and 93 octane in it until it ran clean with the distributor set like that. I could turn it to 7500 rpm in first gear where it would just shut down, 6800 RPM in second was all it would do, no ping at all. The '87 EA 82 had 170,000 miles, IIRC. The ECU did nothing to alter the advanced timing. Go on, try it if you don't believe it. Got to go. Later

Jeremy wrote: "2) It has always pinged like mad under load (steep uphill, 2 adults/2 kids). I had the timing checked by a Subaru garage and they said it's fine." "fine" probably means set where it's supposed to be. If that's the case it needs a higher octane fuel. You could just loosen the distributor, then rotate it clockwise until the ping stopped. I don't recommend it though as that would be retarding the timing. Gasoline is a whole different formulation now compared to when these cars were built. Pinging under a load like that produces a lot of heat, more than normal. Radiator and stat sounds like a good start. HTH Doug

Another possibility is a difference in head gasket thickness. 9.0 to 8.7 is like the difference between a Genuine Subaru head gasket and a Fel Pro headgasket. The Fel Pro is about .010 thicker.

Wow, that's one whacked out picture. Right after posting I had to kill off some intruders inside my computer. I'll post a better one soon. Edit: EA 82 SPFI, EA 82T, EJ 2.5, EA 81. Twitch, what you would need to do to see which piston has the higher CR is take a large syringe graduated in cc, piston in the hole and fill up that space from top ring to the deck. Record the CC it took. Do the same with the EA 82 piston, fill in the valve reliefs and top ring to the deck. Record the CC it took. Or do some fancy calculations...however, the EA 82 piston still has less quench, piston to head. HTH Doug

Sorry for your loss Kostamojen. Doug

Now I understand what you did with the washers, thanks. I need to get both bolts. The struts I bought have the camber plates. I'm going to roll with the XT6 knuckles for now with all new stuff on them, which I have. I bought the rack not knowing that I would also need the "torque rod" from rack to steering shaft. The power steering drivers side rack mounting bracket bolts up fine, but I need the passenger side mounting bracket. My rack is 4 turns lock to lock. So, two bolts, a torque rod and a bracket is what I'm missing. Haven't got around to posting in the wanted section. Doug Edit: Web moving slow here, only way to post from home. I ground the mounting ears on the XT6 nuckels, both sides. Just surfaced them removing flash and such to bare metal. That reduced the thickness but not enough to fit the strut. So I took two wood splitting wedges and inserted them one top one bottom through the strut mounting area. Smacked them a few times with a 3 lb. sledge and now they fit. Still no bolts, too busy. I've reworked 5 connecting rods and three more to go. Stock Subaru is A beam. I'll post pics, flash removal and smoothing the beams. They look good so far, I've had the ARIAS piston in the block for a few days. I've assembled and dissasembled the passenger side...block to cam case, it's now head off with a clay impression...I've got valve interference, I'm working on it. ARIAS piston sits .020 above deck = .040 quench...piston to head. Perfect. I might try later on Android. Doug

Do you like AT or standard trans? This is the kind of discussion going on here IMO. I had an '86 GL wagon with the variable ratio rack and I'd like to have another. 4.8 turns lock to lock with the first turn of the wheel in the variable zone...easy turning. The manual rack in my car now is 4 turns lock to lock, non variable. A converted power rack has like 3.7 turns lock to lock and is harder to turn then either of the manual racks. The manual rack for say an '86 hatch is 3.7 turns lock to lock. Harder to turn than all the above except...it's in a lighter car. I have no problem with and prefer a manual rack in these cars. Nothing wrong with someone wanting power steering and AT. Nothing wrong with me wanting manual steering and stick shift either. Everyone has the option to be happy, either way. Doug

Been working on it... Three doors and the hood are now '86 GL 10 with the rear drivers door NOS. Did some more work fitting the drivers side rear wheel arch and ordered the other side from MILL SUPPLY. Hood pins installed and I sanded with 80 Grit the hood, drivers door, and both front fenders. The front fenders are '85 NOS but had surface rust, I'll have to do a little sand blasting to the tops of them. Front valance is now NOS and I've got the factory rubber lip/spoiler? for that too. Front struts are on the car but I'll do some mechanicals this week, got lots of parts to work with. The XT6 lower control arms are on the car but the mounting bolts from the car are too small, so I'll need those. I also don't have the four bolts that mount the strut to the knuckle. Bigger bushings on the XT 6 arms. I powerwashed the whole car, need to go another round with that though, some I missed. Have a 4000psi Honda that will remove paint, in this case that's a good thing The pistons above are good for 20 psi. Piston pins standard are case hardened so I upgraded to a thinner wall bearing steel. Less weight easier on the rods. I need to talk steering racks but it's a longer subject then I want to get into right now...later on. Doug

For reference here a new set of STI/WRX rods are $250.00.

http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Connecting_Rods_for_02_07_Subaru_WRX_STI-2039-1.html Gives you a general rundown. I like the Manleys but You CANNOT go wrong with the Cerrillios, IMO. Doug