Quidam

Look into VHT paints. Sprayed some today. Doug

Bought a set of these today for the "A" motor. Here's the state of the intake runners, intake manifold. Web moving at 36 kbps on dial up right now. I'll post more later when the phone equipment dries out. Doug Here's how I left the "B" motor. I've since moved and consolidated parts for it. Plan is to plumb the oil supply from that front fitting where you see the blue. Priority turbo and main. I'm hooking a gague to each banjo bolt that used to be the oil supply to the turbo. Gives me a reference as to the health of the main bearings...RandD kinda stuff.... The cam gets full oil pressure. What's left is to cool the valve springs. I've got notes but how I'll restrict the oil isn't set in stone yet. The solid HLA's aren't either.

Hey, All good points however...With solids I can gain some lift on the camshafts and restrict the oil supply. I've measured the lift and verified it all. Doug

I recieved a full refund on that flexplate, they don't want it back. Red hood pins are in the mail. I want to install new bushings in the lower control arms but I'm not having much success finding them. Probably should go with poly if I can find them, same for the front strut rod bushes. 2 brands list the caster adjustment at 2 1/4 degree plus or minus on the XT6 strut rods. I bought these. The drivers rear arch is made in Denmark, seems to be high quality. Have a NOS rear passenger door to go on, front passenger window got broken today...I didn't do it, but I got to fix it:) Edit; Test fit wheel arch to the car, so far, so good. It fits well. Edit: That knob came and it didn't have the right thread insert so I'm sending it back. The brushed finish on this one was really rough, doesn't look as good as the picture. So I ordered this. I've had one of these for a while, fits on the shifter or dual range lever. I'm keeping the DR 5 speed in the car initially...change of plans. This goes on it. The part actually looks better then this picture. Doug

OK, I bought the Tanatube struts, we'll see how that goes. I also bought the BRADI rotors for the front. My other car has 215 60 16 tires on it that still have some life in them. I plan on installing them on the wheels I've got for the Subaru for now. May be too big....but they'll hold the car up and be OK for the time being. Sorted out and pieced together the parts I have tonight. Axles next and tie rod ends. Doug

I recieved these parts yesterday. UPS delivered the XT6 flywheel this morning...and it's a flexplate instead, so it goes back. Grabbed another GL flywheel to take to the machine shop to be ground to XT6 specs. Hood pins go back, I ordered red. Say, do you have an opinion on aircraft aluminum lug nuts? Rear XT6 conversion, I basically have all the parts on hand and it will probably be done first. Steeve, the front hand brake...linelock:) I was wondering whether to fool with the hillholder for that but I've never messed with or used them much. I've just unhooked a few. I'll be going with the XT6 hubs, rotors, brakes for now. I'll shave the mount for the Imp strut. I get that I'll need the XT6 outer tie rods. Wondering if it's a bolt on with the manual rack? I don't have XT6 strut rods and wondering if I should get some. I'm thinking they are larger than GL rods. I'm thinking I'll want some neg camber and a little more caster with this set up. Feed back? I have the XT6 lower control arms, front and rear sway bars. As this is going to be a street car, no use for a dedicated race car. New drivers side headlight installed with the early side marker lights the other day, set of headlights had the blue Sylvania bulbs so that's what's in it now. I can buy these Tanatube struts for two hundred, what do you think of them? I'm inclined to think it;s not such a bad deal. Feed back?

Car is up on stands. Change of plans...installing an 140,000 known good engine, Pepe, little mule. Have low mile XT6 flywheel and car will be put together this time with 5 speed with diff lock, 3.7 rear lsd, manual steering rack. Have all new brake stuff, hood pins...I removed all the door bumper molding. I need to get some pics... I need front struts, have XT6 hubs. Know if struts from an 2002 Imp will bolt on? Doug

I took a look at those racks. The front wheel drive unit may be a 4 turn lock to lock unit. The more expensive 4WD rack is most likely a variable ratio unit, and has less turns lock to lock. And requires a core. You may need the manual rack universal joint for this swap. Doug

Still above ground. I've got the money to finish it. Got a Tig welder, stick welder and ox/aceteline torch. All I need is time, fuel management, Total seal gapless piston rings, tires, two wheels, and some other bits. The time thing is a problem for the summer time frame but I'll be doing stuff when I get a chance. Car has been tarped over the winter, metal roofing under the whole car has kept the moisture and weeds at bay. Oh, the heads need about 8 hours yet on the ports and I'll need to do some welding on them, I went large, ah, head games that people play

That plug for #1 looks like it's cracked. It may be that the resistor is in the top of the plug and the spark is bypassing it, taking the path of least resistance. Doug

I would think so. I don't know what you're running for CR but I've got a SPFI EA82 stock that runs best on a mix of 89 and 92 octane with stock 9.5:1 and timing advanced a bunch. But the combustion chambers aren't as efficient as an EJ. I fed it what it wanted, that's not Zen btw. Choices here for fuel are 87, 89, 92, 93, and 94. How much total advance are you running...25 or so? Doug

I suggest you look at Rock Auto listings. The part numbers you posted are there and more. They do list different numbers for 4wd and 2wd. Doug

Here's a cross reference of the same part used in all these vehicles. FORDCOURIER(1977 - 1979)FORDCUSTOM1977FORDF-100(1978 - 1979)FORDF-150(1978 - 1979)FORDF-250(1978 - 1979)FORDF-350(1978 - 1979)FORDFAIRMONT(1978 - 1979)FORDFIESTA1978FORDGRANADA(1977 - 1979)FORDLTD1977FORDLTD II1977FORDMAVERICK1977FORDMUSTANG1979FORDMUSTANG II(1977 - 1978)FORDPINTO(1977 - 1979)FORDTHUNDERBIRD1977MAZDA6261979MAZDA808(1972 - 1977)MAZDA929(1990 - 1991)MAZDAB1600(1972 - 1973)MAZDAB1800(1977 - 1978)MAZDAB2000(1982 - 1984)MAZDACOSMO(1976 - 1978)MAZDAGLC(1977 - 1979)MAZDAMIATA(1994 - 1997)MAZDAMIZER(1976 - 1977)MAZDAROTARY PICKUP1977MAZDARX-2(1973 - 1974)MAZDARX-3(1973 - 1978)MAZDARX-4(1974 - 1978)MERCURYBOBCAT(1977 - 1978)MERCURYCAPRI1977MERCURYCOMET1977MERCURYCOUGAR(1977 - 1978)MERCURYGRAND MARQUIS(1977 - 1978)MERCURYMARQUIS(1977 - 1978)MERCURYMONARCH(1977 - 1978)MERCURYZEPHYR1978NISSAN12001971NISSAN1300(1972 - 1973)NISSAN1600(1966 - 1970)NISSAN2000(1967 - 1970)NISSAN200SX(1977 - 1988)NISSAN2101979NISSAN240Z(1970 - 1973)NISSAN260Z(1974 - 1975)NISSAN280Z(1975 - 1978)NISSAN280ZX1979NISSAN300ZX(1988 - 1989)NISSAN3101979NISSAN3201965NISSAN410(1963 - 1965)NISSAN411(1963 - 1967)NISSAN510(1968 - 1979)NISSAN521 PICKUP(1970 - 1972)NISSAN610(1973 - 1976)NISSAN620 PICKUP(1972 - 1979)NISSAN710(1974 - 1977)NISSAN810(1977 - 1979)NISSANB110(1970 - 1971)NISSANB210(1974 - 1978)NISSANBLUEBIRD1963NISSAND21 PICKUP(1987 - 1991)NISSANF10(1976 - 1978)NISSANPATHFINDER1987SUBARUBRAT1978SUBARUDL(1975 - 1989)SUBARUFE1979SUBARUGF(1975 - 1979)SUBARUGL(1975 - 1989)SUBARUGL-10(1985 - 1989)SUBARUGLF(1980 - 1982)SUBARULOYALE(1990 - 1994)SUBARURX(1985 - 1989)SUBARUSTANDARD(1976 - 1987)SUBARUXT(1985 - 1991) Ha, I got the Fram because it was only $10.00. Usually I avoid Fram like the plague, but so far, so good. Doug

Trans fluid out of the modulator means it's bad and that fluid gets sucked into the intake. Check the vac hose where it connects to the engine, it will be oily there. New aren't very expensive and I bought a Fram for mine. It's adjustable...that valve fits many other cars. I haven't adjusted it yet but I'm going to turn it two turns in and see if if firms up the shifts for a start. Doug

Have you drained the oil? I know that's not cheap these days but it could tell you a lot. You may have a magnetic drain plug on it to check, then take a close look at the oil in the drain pan. I'd go from there with any other decision. Doug

Let me add that a thermostat equal to the Subaru unit, IIRC, has a much better control built in. The opening and closing rates are gental and gradual, with the larger spring and better materials, combined with the larger opening, offer superior flow. The glut of junk (cheap) thermostats on the market is at an all time high. The Subaru stat has a rubber seal on the valve too. And if momma ain't happy, no one is happy:) Doug

I don't know for sure, haven't been in there yet. But I've read several times of people adding a shim to the pump...probably easier and you have more control like that with thickness. I don't want to go nuts with a lot of oil pressure...and 80 psi for the 8,000 rpm I want to turn in another project may be a little too much for a Subaru, as they seem to take it well. But how much load is on the motor plays a big part in what oil pressure you need. What's clear is not one weight is right for all. All aluminum expands more than cast iron when hot, plus, the clearance differences from one to the next can be a big difference. For example, main bearing clearance could range from .0008 to .003, and still be in spec. The most oil pressure I've ever known about in a piston engine is 200 psi with 70 weight oil. But that's in an NHRA Top Fuel Dragster making 1000 hp per cylinder... Doug

Those compression numbers, like Gary said, they seem awfull low. Have you checked the timing on the belts? Spark plug reading I pretty much gave up due to the "gasoline" used these days. It's just not the same or as simple as it used to be. Heads, you can post an add up here, but you should be able to find some local. You get there, post some pics. Meanwhile, you have a massive leak somewhere if your gauge readings are right. Doug

Hey, haven't had one apart but the gov gear is driven. The drive gear bushings or bearings goes out, I guess. On the 2-3 slip, factory checks are L,G,M,J on the car. L=Brake band adjustment. G=Oil pressure check. M=Servo pipe. J=Control valve, in that order. Off the car "k" Reverse clutch, "r" leak from hydraulic circuit. "As cor speed increases while traveling in the D (2nd gear) range, the governor pressure grows greater than the spring force of the 2-3 shift valve and the throttle pressure. When this takes place, the 2-3 shift valve moves to apply the line pressure to the reverse clutch and "release" side of the band servo through the line pressure passage." Doug

Just some thoughts. I personally took out a 3AT Loyale ECU when I hooked up the battery charger backwards. It had no led after that. Back a ways there was talk of the coil wires hooked up backwards. Would that do it to? I installed an '88 5 speed ECU, known good and it wouldn't run the car. I swapped in an '88 AT ECU and the car has been running ever since. I used an ebay seller that listed the actual Hollander interchange information for my car, and the MT ECU's weren't compatable. If you had that Hollander info from somewhere, it would clear it up for you. Doug

If you get there, you'll need thin feeler gauges you might not have. Not to worry you'd start out with an .002 and see if it fits. With your mileage it probably will. Go up to .003 if need be or higher. It's by feel with feeler gauges, how tight, loose where you can tell it's somewhere in between and so forth. .001 and .0015 blades and feeler stock are kind of fragile too. Doesn't take much to mangle them up. But you won't need those initially. But of course a machinist could check for you. I wouldn't assume I had good cores in the heads and block either until it's torn down and evaluated. I've got a 150,000 mile engine I've yet to tear down. I have no expectations that it's all good because it was ran with a clogged cat. I fixed that and then it blew a head gasket. And it was using oil. Odds are, the heads are unusable for me with all the heat they saw. Crack city. You have other wheels, that's a big difference. Don't know what your time frame is, but a good used engine might be a consideration...back up plan. I'd be most concerned with what your heads look like. You may need replacements. Hard to say unless you look. Be sure you want to tear into this. Anything new going on with it? Doug

Those studs fit...no ****? If you pull this motor down clean the pistons in solvent and measure the ring side gap. Factory is about .0015 when new. At freezing you still have about .0005 so things can still move. That produces great ring seal. .003 max is factory recommendation. IMO, this is one of the most important measurements in a motor. If that aftermarket piston kit is any good, that's an attractive price. Pistons, pins, rings. IMO, the Felpro gaskets are a good choice only if your deck and head surface is ugly. The Tefflon used makes the head-gasket thicker, so it drops the CR a bit. I torqued a factory head gasket down, removed and measured..first torque it compressed .002. Took it apart and torqued it down again. Took it apart and it shrunk another .001. In lieu of a hot re torque, IMO, just do a cold re torque before you install the cam cases. Oh, I let it sit 24 hrs in between during those tests. Just some thoughts. Doug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310496587794?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Atsugi OEM, both 104 and 110 mm listed. Cast impeller is superior flow vrs stamped metal. Delco is the only RockAuto pump listed as cast impeller these days. But sounds like you're not sure it's the pump? hth Doug

Some update thoughts. I've got it to 0 the gauge but only in the range of 2 to 4,000 rpm, under certain circumstances. Going up hill lite on the throttle. I can turn it 7500 rpm in first gear down hill then the tachometer swings left and I think that means the ignition signal is cut...? My exhaust is restrictive, for sure. The way the 3AT is set up at WOT, just let it shift, it shifts at 5200 because that's where peak HP is. Mine recovers to a nominal 3,400. Slightly above peak torque. I'll need to stop this experiment on this car. It has all new factory style bolt together exhaust. Daily driver I'll leave as is. My best factory front pipe, AP exhaust midpipe with resonator. Walker Quiet Flow muffler. Yea, that muffler bugs me the most, but I like quiet DD. Doug

Just something I did. EA 82 with optical distributor. I taped a vac gauge to the windshield. Tests inconclusive because after I parked the car I realized the gauge wasn't zeroing like it should. I'll have a new vac gauge this week. I'll verify but here's what I found. I'm on the third tank of 93-94 octane fuel. I found a sweet spot with the distributor position where the engine will show a steady 21.5" of vac. I rev it and it peaks at 25" when I close the throttle like it should. I'm at about 300-900' elevation above sea level mostly. I haven't used a timing light yet. My disty is set like this...If you advance your disty all the way, then pull it back a wee bit...that's my sweet spot. I first just advanced it all the way and tried it. Got a bit of ping under heavy load, and the motor ran a little warmer. Still didn't get over half way on the gauge though. But moving on with the question of whether or not the intake or exhaust is restrictive, on this car it may be. Best number I can estimate is that the vacuum never drops below 2". I took the stock air filter out but there was no change. No restriction that gauge will drop to 0. This Loyale has noticable torque and hp increases and I'm just going to run 94 Sunoco. I need to get the dial back timing light out and get some numbers. Oh, no EGR or AC, 3AT 4WD. I got third gear front tire chirp when it shifted while over rough black top. I had a small grin on my face:) Doug