capn_r

Congratulations! I'll check in next time I am in the neighborhood to see if your ready for some seat time.

My guess is that you have a bit of toe out. Throw a tape across it and see.

6207-2rs-c3

Whoo-hoo! Thank you planning staff!

Are you maybe dealing with different generation cam sprockets that is creating some kind of incompatability with the cam sensor?

Go to the FSM section 6-2 to the section on "Engine Electrical (MFPI)" (mine says page 12 at the bottom) It shows pin # b12 (#12 of 12 on the B58 plug) connecting ignition switched power to the fuel pump relay(one side of the relay coil) and the ignition coil. It also shows the other side of the fuel pump relay coil connecting to d23 that grounds the relay coil. I believe yours is wired funny due to the continuous pump operation. (I guess the fuel pump relay contacts could be stuck connected but I doubt that is the case) The FSM selective labeling of the ECU connectors can get a little confusing. (plug "a" one time "B48" the next) Hobart Kennedy's method of labeling the ECU makes it a tad easier by combining the two methods of identifying the various plugs. I hope this helps you get it sorted out.

Maybe with the free plug you gave the shop they could hook you up on a deal fixing the wheel bearings and engine issues

You are very welcome my friend. I would have rather it lit then but I'm convinced you are close. Be sure and give me a happy report when those loud noises come out of the bottom of your engine.

I believe on an EA82 the inner and outer seals are different. I may be mistaken but the outer on an EA82 and both on an EA81 are the same but the EA82 inner is larger.

]Here is a link to a Factory Service Manual engine section. It should have what you need. http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/SubaruEA81-ServiceManual.pdf

Josh I've got an 84 FSM that I can either scan some pages or get to you to check out, I think it should have what you need. It sounds like progress is happening. Abe

It appears that both of your vehicles use the ISO protocol. (Whatever that is) Here is the link I found. http://www.myscantool.com/vehicles.html I hope that helps.

Something I ran into a few times forever ago with QJ's was the nitrophyl (sp?) float getting a little heavy (starting to saturate) thus letting the inlet needle valve not seat correctly and causing the carb to run fat. If I remember correctly you sat the float on a flat surface tipped back against the end where the needle attaches and if it would stay in that position it was probably okay. If it tipped forward it was probably getting heavy.

5K-Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometers Model: 271-1714 | Catalog #: 271-1714 $2.99

Try this site. http://subaru.sonik.us/cgi-bin/vin.cgi

I had also read the post by jbbvw where he said the following, "I put EA82 front suspension on my 4" lifted 81 wagon. I used the axles, knuckles/brakes, control arms and outer tie rods. I extended the EA81 inner tie rods 1" and extended radius rods 2". I'm still using the adjustable EA81 struts. This set up moves the tires forward 2" and out about 1 1/2" on each side, but the struts still limit travel. I've been wanting to try some different struts with more travel and move the top mounts forward so they're not leaning back so much. I've been very happy with this setup otherwise. Camber is not to bad. I'm pretty sure FWD suspension would work." Jesse I contacted him and was invited to look at his car / modifications. His combination is just as stated in the above excerpt and is something I'm going to try on my 82 DL wagon. He used the EA81 power rack that he extended the inner tie rods and he stretched the radius rods to match the length needed to hook the EA82 lower control arms to the EA81 crossmember mount. I should have taken some pictures but didn't. I like the idea of the EA82 axles and then getting the bonus of moving the tires forward. More Sube lego stuff with a small amount of fab work. I'm sure Jesse would fill in any blanks if you ask him.

Another thing I did was use an old sube wagon wheel (spoked wheel with a fairly thick flange) and after drilling the hubs with a pilot hole ( I used 1/4 inch, you can use whatever you prefer) I bolted the wagon wheel back on with the two original studs and drilled through the pilot holes on the hub and the wheel became a jig for the rest of the hubs. That way you bolt the sube wheel on and use whatever size transfer punch in the pattern hole and don't have near the set up issues on every one. I've done several sets and never had any vibration issues. Spot facing on the back of the hubs helps, but as noted before grinding works. good luck.

Transfer punch's work well.

A lot of info here http://subaruxt.com/ and check these out. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AirSuspSumm01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/AirSuspenFall01.pdf grossgary knows this stuff and is very helpful, he will probably respond to you post soon.

I swapped out the dimmer switch for the dash lights and everything got normal. It would appear the L.E.D's and the incandescents have a separate rheostats.

Don't you mean "steering column unlocked"

How about the possibility of using the bellhousing portion of an EJ automatic?

I was hoping to see you there Dave so you could check out where your EJ swap stuff went that I got from you.

Nice job! It looks good.

88 GL10 wagon, EJ22 swap. The problem I have is the backlights in the dash quit functioning. When the headlights are on the trip computer goes dark (the numbers still display, you just can't see them)and the cluster lights don't come on. (odometer and trip odometer etc)The digital instruments all work fine. I checked and my tail lights work normally. I'm not where my manual is for a schematic to look at and I have searched some without coming up with anything. I suppose it is possible that I disturbed something doing the EJ swap but the dashlights worked normal for probably 10k miles after the swap. Any ideas where I should look? Thanks!