capn_r

They hold your clutch release bearing to the fork.

http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/winter/anti.htm

Regarding the rack width differance, how close to the same width at the inner tie rod pivot point are the EA units to the EJ units? If the width at that point is very much different it would be possible to create some bump steer issues but if the extra width is in the inner tie rod end that wouldn't be a concern. If this swap can be done without too much surgery that would an affordable solution to EA81 power steering addition with readily available components. Nice work!

That number should work, I crossed it over to Napa (their number is BK 6411630) which was listed for the applications below. Subaru 1300 1972 - 1972 Subaru 1400 1973 - 1976 Subaru 1600 1976 - 1987 Subaru 1800 1980 - 1989 Subaru Brat 1978 - 1987 Subaru Justy 1987 - 1994 Subaru Loyale 1990 - 1994 Subaru XT 1985 - 1991

The searching I did must have been on the wrong two hundred plus million treads. Maybe I didn't use the correct search terms. It wasn't my intent to bring up a sensitive subject. Thanks

I have a situation where I want to tow my FT4WD for approximately 100 miles. I could pull the rear drive shaft and use my dolly but I'm thinking that if I had it in neutral (5 speed) and all four wheels on the ground (with a tow bar) with the transaxle differential unlocked I shouldn't create any problems for myself. It's mechanical with no viscous coupler to damage. Am I thinking funny? Thanks

Unfortunately I didn't take pictures when it went together. Feel free to ask any questions and I will attempt to get some pictures together. I will try to come up with Legacy radiator and condenser and show what I did on another car which will be easier to see without an engine in the vehicle. There are several people expressing an interest so I will attempt to get that done fairly soon. Abe

Hey Chris, On my GL10 that was parked next to you at the show (silver car, VW wheels) I have good working AC as well as the stock hood latch and bumper. The solution for mine was the Legacy radiator and condenser and that allowed room for two ten inch pusher fans in the front. The fans are where the EA condenser was, the condenser is where the radiator was and the radiator is just behind the core support. (pretty much the only remaining space) Now I need to put some XT seats in mine so I will be even more comfortable.

I have an 89 fsm that has what I think you need. There is some difference if you have Hitachi or Panasonic A/C on your car. If you pm me an e-mail address and let me know which manufacturer made your A/C I will scan that page and attach it to an e-mail. Abe

Hey Gary, You should have an e-mail with a couple of scans. My addiction continues, I'm picking up another XT6 Friday. Abe

If it is the same part you are looking for, according to my 1986 parts catalog the number is 21029 GA030 I hope that helps, Abe P.S. If it would help I could scan the page and e-mail it to you.

I tore the cluster out of the car and the little pto thing that Gloyale mentioned had a gear missing so the drive unit was replaced with one with all it's guts. I now have an odometer. I swapped the display component out (for another unknown condition one) and everything that did work still does but I still don't have a tachometer. I may hook an after market tach up to the signal from my ecu to make sure that is sending a signal then determine that I don't have a break in the wire to the cluster. Or are these tach's prone to not functioning? Unless it is a real common problem it doesn't seem like I should have two bad units but maybe I do. any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Abe

Board Member: Capn_r Engine: 91 EJ22 Chassis: 1988 GL-10 Wagon Tranny: 5 speed FT4WD with diff lock Other: Redrilled hubs, 4x100 with 14x6 VW "imola" alloy wheels and 185 /70/14's 95 Legacy exhaust y pipe with 2.25 tailpipe with a magnaflow muffler the car has working A/C (Legacy condenser and radiator) and I'm in the process of getting all the car's other whistles and bells functioning. A fun car and having this board to refer to is an incredible asset!

With Gloyale's hunch I dug back into my FSM and was able to locate the connector you mentioned. On this car it was white connectors with green wire on the passenger side under the dash. I connected them and the memory is great now (much better than mine) It would be interesting to know if that connector was ever connected, I kind of doubt it. I guess now I will pull the cluster and figure out a repair for the odometer drive. It is sure nice to not have to always re-invent the wheel. Thanks! Abe

I will check that, but with the speedometer functioning I assumed it was connected. I have two other GL 10's with digital dashes (86 and 87) maybe I will try swapping either of both of them in and see if anything changes. Thanks, Abe

I have an 88 GL 10 FT4WD five gear car with some dash issues. First the digital speedometer works but the (analog / mechanical ?) odometer and trip odometer don't. Something must be confused in the cluster correct? Also, the trip computer loses it's memory every time the key is shut off. The fuse is good in the position for the memory, any ideas? I did an EJ swap on this car and hooked the tach wire from the ecu to the tach wire from the former coil ground to the cluster but I have no tach operation. And last (for now) I'm getting a code for the VSS. I have the ecu connected to the "reed switch" wire from the cluster, could whatever isn't turning the odometer also not be letting the reed switch function? Thanks in advance for suggestions / solutions. Abe

I had that issue with my 82 DL. What I did was pull the hub and take the axle out (outer stub attached to the CV shaft) and I used a large ball joint separator tool (pickle fork) and hammered the tapers on the tool into the notch between the stub axle and the female part of the CV joint. As stubborn as the thing was it surprised me how easy it came apart. I pulled the axle to do that because I didn't want to brinenell the bearings and they are still rolling fine several years later.

I don't know on an EA 81 vehicle but I just did a EJ EA82 swap and have my ac online (the car first moved itself today and is leaving tomorrow for a 1000 mile trip) I got lucky, with the EA82 body the condenser and radiator from the legacy fit real easy, the EJ radiator hoses just needed shortened and the discharge line from the A/C compressor to the condenser works and is just bent a bit more than the way it was born. For the suction hose I spliced the rubber parts (EA from the evaporator which was smaller to the EJ section from the compressor that was an 1/8 in larger. I also spliced the liquid line from the condenser to the receiver / dryer which was the same size. I've got two 10 inch pusher fans in front of the condenser (which couldn't happen with the car's original condenser due to the discharge and liquid lines being in front of the coil) and I'm pretty sure I have sufficient airflow. Something similar should be able to be done on an EA81 (aftermarket condenser? Red Dot etc) When I get back near my EA81 cars I will measure things and see if I can be more specific. Which White Pass are you located at?

So the original axles worked as far as "length" with the ea-82 knuckles installed , is that correct? Yes, if I remember correctly the wheel bearings and spacer between them is the same on both and my fit with no issues. cool fix on the seals! I was / am happy with that very affordable and easy solution myself. Thanks! I looked at both knuckles and the 82's looked like the strut hole is offset further in from the face (backing plate surface) than the 81's, ) that seems like it would cause a camber problem , would you explain what camber problem you did have? I believe what I had is positive (?) camber, (splayed out at the top). Also, I am not sure if the strut mounting hole in the knuckles are the same angle for both, but i will try and check somehow. Your observation on the angle makes sense as to why my camber issue existed. I had thought the ea-81 strut mounting dia is slightly smaller than the ea-82's, i'm sure i measured some one time, did you notice the 81's in 82 knuckles having a loose fit, but would clamp down ok? Mine fit fine. The knuckles I used were I believe 85 or 86, possibly the later ones were a different diameter? I think your downtime will be limited, keep us posted! Abe

I swapped the knuckles on my 82 DL (EA81) to some off of an early EA82 car several years ago. What I recall is the EA81 tie rod ends are a larger taper. I reamed the EA82 knuckle to fit but since I have seen several threads on tie rod end differances and I'm sure a practical tie rod end swap exists. I used the original axle by pressing in a thin sleeve made from I believe 3 inch exhaust tubing into the EA82 knuckle to allow the original (EA81)size inner seal to fit. I used the EA81 struts in the EA82 knuckles and had to address some camber issues that generated but if you can change the top hats and run the EA82 struts you may not have that problem. That would probably also eliminate some slight weirdness that my car has at near lock when turning. The brakes work very well(I installed rear disc's as well) and was well worth the effort on mine. Abe

Isn't the SPFI fuel pump quite a bit lower pressure than the EJ's port injected system?

If you keep up the progress your car should be safe in a passing situation pretty soon. Nice job!

http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA82/88_XT/ Section 6.3, page 91 is the steering schematic. Let me know if that covers what you need and if so I will hold off on sending the supplement to Ed. If I don't hear back I will go ahead and send it.

PM me an address and I will mail it to you tomorrow!