capn_r

I have a supplement that I got with an incomplete 90 XT6 FSM set titled "XT-6 Electronic-Controlled Motor Drive Power Steering Service Manual Supplement" that has a schematic in it. If that sounds like it will work let me know and I can see that you get it. I can't scan it (scanner died) but I'm sure we can make something happen. Abe

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Thanks for the responses guys! My confusion regarding the module got a little clearer when I determined that the component is listed as a crankshaft position sensor. Silly me, when I saw that listed, I thought it would be located near the crankshaft rather than in the distributor body. The combination of components that I hope can play nice together are as follows, I have an '88 DL wagon (SPFI originaly)that came without an engine, an '84 EA81 engine that I would like to put in that car, a SPFI intake from a '92 Loyale, and a distributor from an '88 GL10 Turbo car. I will report back when I make some progress on the project.(I'm waiting for a bunch of snow to go away) Thanks again, Abe

I did some searching and didn't come up with the answer I'm looking for. Will an EA82T and SPFI distributors interchange? I also looked at some online parts sources,they didn't seem to distinguish between to two, but, they were sold less module and then couldn't find where they listed modules seperately. I could use an SPFI unit,(donor for an EA81 SPFI conversion) and I have MFPI turbo units and want to know if I already have what I need. Thanks, Abe

If memory serves me correctly, it takes a 35/64th inch bit.

The banded ones. I'll run a little history by you. The inners were split when I got the car (Summer '05) I replaced / repacked both inners right away and they were in good shape when I put a D/R 5 speed in that winter. The replacement ones lasted another year or so and I replaced them again when I put EA82 knuckles on the car. (early '07)The ones I put on then are junk now. The car sometimes sits for several months at a time, I'm wondering if the boots get stiff and take a set that infulences them tearing when they get flexed again. I think I"ll replace the ball joints this time, Maybe the boots splitting provide incentive to do maintenance / upgrades. Hopefully the EMPI parts will last better. Thanks again. Abe

No, nothing close. I just ordered another pair of inners, EMPI brand this time, I guess I will see what happens. Thanks for the responses Jeff. Abe

My local auto parts store. It's a Napa, but I think they sourced them outside of their system. I don't recall the brand, or if they (boot kits) were the same brand each time.

Is your catalytic converter possibly plugged / seriously restricted?

Does anyone have a recommendation for a source for durable CV boots? I have an EA-81 wagon that I have replaced the inner front boots several times and if there is something available that would last better I would definitely go with it. I have been following the tread on the two inch lift on the strut and I would like to do something like that to level the car a bit, but with just using the adjustment on my struts and the boot problem I seem to have I would think the boot tearing problem would be even worse. My catalytic converter has lost the stuff that makes it get super hot and I seem to have as bad of a problem on the driver’s side anyway. I guess I could do the front half of a lift and back off the adjustment on the struts to get the angle less severe on the joint, but the joints seem to handle the angle fine, I just don’t get too good of service out of the boots. Any suggestions? Thanks!

If your starter hasn't functioned since the swap I would guess the circuit that did go through the neutral switch is open. Can you jumper the solenoid terminal on the starter and have it crank over?

Where at in which Washington?

Try this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=50

Hey Rob, I can cover you on the digital temp stuff. I sent you a PM with how to contact me if you're interested. Abe

Here is a good place to start some research. http://fuelsforum.rasoenterprises.com/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=5e6d2209b85fddfbad9406311bf80c78

Napa's information shows -.815 on the XT6,-.900 on the EA82, and -.825 on the late EA81 with the 8 7/8 disc diameter.

I did an interchange search in the Napa website and the factory number (30502 AA001) came up as Their BRG N4059 and they list another number which is ATM 0703005 (of which the DC shows having one of also) but it is even more pricey than the other which they show two of. You called it on the one I have from the XT6 set being wrong, it appears that it is the bearing for a fwd car so I should pick up the correct one so I don't have to deal with the same torment you are when I go to put it in something. I had bought two of the clutch packs (they were becoming obsolete and were considerably less money than other options I found) and I put one in my 82 wagon when I put a D/R 5 speed in it and I'm going to have to guess that one had the bearing like you need because it fit the D/R transaxle. The only thing I remember doing when I did that swap was machining the flywheel (later EA81 225mm) to the XT6 spec's and put it in and it has worked fine which wouldn't have been the case with the remaining bearing. Good luck and I hope to meet you at the show Abe

It appears that the one you need is the BCA / Timkin / whoever 614059.(does that match your information?) The Napa distribution center in Kent shows having two of them available. Their part number is BRG N4059 and the store in the corner of the DC is open from 10 a.m. 'till 6 p.m. today. If that could work to get you one a little sooner their phone # is (425) 656-8980.

Rob, I have a clutch release bearing in my spare XT-6 clutch kit that can be in your hands not much over an hour if it would work for you. I'm not sure it is the one you need but I have another option where we could have one tomorrow morning. If either option could work PM me and we can work out details. I hate to see you that close and hung up. Abe

86 GL10 5 speed wagon. I have no history on the car (came from an auction) but here is what I do have. It shows 163000 and doesn't lose coolant or have any symptoms of overheating. Both injectors on the passenger side were slobbering gas and #4 made little if any difference if the plug wire was pulled from the cap. It had spark on #4. I aquired another set of injectors that I had cleaned and tested (witchhunter performance) which were installed. I installed new plugs also and it still ran bad, (somewhere close to 3 cylinders) so I did a compression check.#1 40 psi #2 150 psi #3 135 psi # 4 30 psi. It has the TOD, could the lash adjusters on the lazy cylinders be collapsed? I haven't done a leakdown test on it, but I can if get my yet unused tester figured out if that will help pinpoint it's issues. Any recomendations? Thanks!

I hope this helps, I spent some time in my local Napa's books. There does appear to be at least two options (on the EA81 style bearing) one being part # N4012 that has a bearing bore diameter of 1.57 inches and # N3005 that has the bore diameter of 1.3755.(I believe that would be where they press onto the collar) They also listed a complete assembly #N4047 that I think would have the N3005 bearing installed on it which appeared to be the later model's. (the last few years of EA81 production) If that don't help I can dig a little deeper. Good Luck!

Here is a link to some information from the ausubaru.com forum http://www.ausubaru.com/main/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1013 Hopefully it can shed a little light.

It appears that your suspension crossmember has rusted and lost it's strength and bent. It should be straight and parallel to the ground. Like Trogdor said a couple of hours should replace it. I think about any EA82 component should be able to be a replacement. Good Luck!

Hodaka Rider, I think with your having the machinery access I would take the effort to machine the .085 off of the mounting surface for the pressure plate which would give you the specifications the engineers intended for the XT6. Bolting on the XT6 components on the unmodified EA82 flywheel without the machining would be the equivalent having that much wear on your new disc and the associated less clamping force on the disc from the increased distance. I'm not aware of what the disc thickness should be, but if were .400 thick when compressed by the pressure plate you would be losing close to 20% of your available clamping force. Anyway, good luck with your project

putnamj, If possible I would like to get pictures of your installation. Thanks!