capn_r

Would there be a problem using the KSB04 with a 2.2 flywheel? I was under the impression that any of the EJ push type clutches were interchangeable. Am I mistaken?

Are you suggesting he adds the "drop in replacement" to the existing R-12 charge? That sounds like an excellent way to contaminate some R-12. Drop in means that an oil change isn't necessary not that you can mix the refrigerants.

P.M. sent

Thermostatic expansion valve. It's the metering device for the refrigerant at the inlet of the evaporator. If the refrigerant charge is close to what it should be and cooling isn't happening it may be not metering properly. System pressures would help isolate what issues exist causing the lack of cooling.

What are gauge pressures when it is running? I'm guessing a txv issue.

I guess I should rephrase my question. What is the difference in the Impreza and Legacy starters for manual transmission vehicles? The early generation's of both use the same flywheel so something must be different in the mounting.

I have a 5 speed transaxle that the numbers on it (TY752VX3AA) tell me is out of a '93 Impreza. I need a starter that fits it and I would rather not buy one if there is a chance that I already have one from something else and here is my question. Napa shows that '93 to '96 1.8 and 2.2 manual transmission Imps take the same starter but lists different one's for later models. I did a search on car-part.com and they come up with starters fitting through model year 2002 Impreza's and Forester's. What is different with those and Legacy's (or other models? Thanks for any clarification you may have.

Interesting, does this mean that I should remove the EJ22 radiator that I have run for over 60,000 miles and put an EA82 one in because the one I'm running obviously doesn't fit?

Regarding the spfi swap, http://subaru.kacsh.com/eficonversion.pdf

Search "virgin switch".

My five speed EA82 car has cruise control that works real well. The EJ22 may help it work as good as it does, I never drove the car with the EA82T that was born in it.

I think that is the longest "it worked okay until I fixed it" thread I've seen.

My 85 has that style and my 86 doesn't. My observation has been 85 only on that style.

I did that (Hobart Kennedy's diode trick)on mine (88 GL10 with a 91 EJ22) and still no operational tach. My cruise control started working though. I'm going to attempt to get what the signal is from the EJ and convert it to play nice with the EA digital tach. I picked up an oscilloscope for that purpose and a fellow board member with a better grip on electronics than I have and I are on a mission to get this sorted out. We will update when we find something.

Your transaxle final drive ratio is most likly 3.90. Fortunately that ratio is more common than what you have and it should be easy to find a rear differential.

I looks like an '86 to me. (it doesn't have the 85 only mirrors)

If you replaced the timing belt my guess would be that you didn't use the mark on the crank sensor trigger wheel but rather the one on the sprocket. Don't ask me why I think that could happen.

Aren't some residential sink traps 1.25"? You could have a shiny chrome chunk in your radiator hose.

http://www.enginewiring.com/catalog.htm

I have been a member for several years but couldn't vote because I didn't have 25 posts. I was going to vote a homebuilt tranfercased vehicle from Idaho. Oh well.

Mine functions (88 GL10 with a 91 EJ22) I connected diodes off of the two signal leads on the ignitor together and used that connection to replace the tach signal from the ecu in an attempt to get my digital tach to function. The tach still doesn't function but my cruise does since doing that. I'm not sure that made it happen but it has worked since doing that and I not going to argue with success. Hobart Kennnedy came up with doing the diode thing to get the tach to work on some Vanagon swaps so I thought I would try it.

I don't think I would rush to change the txv, I'm guessing you may have an ambient sensor keeping it from coming on initially. (I haven't looked at a schematic for your vehicle so I don't know for sure what it has) If you jumpered 12volts to your compressor clutch to engage it and the system acted normal it would point to a control / safety in the circuit. Also a question I would have is if you have non-condensables in your system causing the high side pressure to be excessive. It could be easy to get some air and moisture into the system during charging or checking pressures and that would influence your high pressure safety tripping off.

Disconnect the connector from the a/c clutch and see if you still have the short. If the short goes away the clutch coil is probably shorted. If that doesn't eliminate the short check for pinched or bare wires leading to that point. (like Cougar recommended in your other thread)

The P town RV lives at is Puyallup, a tad closer to Maple Valley

Possibly you have a plugged catalytic converter?