capn_r

If you're in Maple Valley I'd hit Johnson's Home and Garden for fasteners, they have a very impressive collection and knowledgeable help.

People put EG33's in them I don't think there should be a problem. P.M. Mountainbrat he has an early EJ22 swapped Vanagon and an Imp with a phase II, I'm sure he could tell you if you would have an issue or could throw a measuring tape on an engine and the hole for it.

The low range (which you car would have if it were a GL) is a two speed (under and direct) unit on the main drive gear (input shaft) of the transaxle that has them. Subaru's version of a transfer case is in the rear of the transaxle and is front wheel drive until you engage the rear. A transaxle swap to a dual range from a GL will get you the low range (1.59 to 1 reduction)

Thanks for the tips TeamCF, I'm only short one and maybe if this thread gets bumped enough I will find someone that has a spare or spares. I going to do the hub redrill to six lug and run some nissan 15's I have on the car anyway but the rubber isn't bad that I have and at least even being a bastard wheel they aren't 13's. I have run the ball seat adapters on some VW Jetta alloys I have run on my GL10 that I redrilled to 4x100, I will check the fit of those adapters on these wheels. I wonder if there is a chance to machine the 60 degree ( I think) angle to the holes and run regular sube nuts. Thanks again.

Thanks Mick, that's pretty much what I had figured. Reid, we will be in contact and see what happens.

Here are dimensions for Napa bearing number BRG 62012RSJ It appears they are 32mm od. Below is the sube's napa's information says they fit. Clutch Pilot Bearing I.D. : .4724" Clutch Pilot Bearing O.D. : 1.2598" Clutch Pilot Bearing Width : .3937" Subaru 1300 1972 - 1972 Subaru 1400 1973 - 1976 Subaru 1600 1976 - 1987 Subaru 1800 1980 - 1989 Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006 - 2007 Subaru Baja 2003 - 2006 Subaru Brat 1978 - 1987 Subaru Chaser 1990 - 1991 Subaru Forester 1998 - 2008 Subaru Impreza 1993 - 2008 Subaru Legacy 1990 - 2008 Subaru Loyale 1990 - 1994 Subaru Outback 2000 - 2008 Subaru Star 1971 - 1971 Subaru SVX 1992 - 1997 Subaru Tribeca 2008 - 2008 Subaru XT 1985 - 1991

This picture shows what I have. (Just not quite enough of) http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/pug-centering-washer-lugnuts.jpg

I just got a car with 14 inch steel pugs and I am missing one of the goofy rump roast washer and nut sets. Are there any out there or is there another solution? Thanks

I'll try to make it up so Ed and Rob won't have to be the only old guys. Maybe my lifted hatch will be online by then.

You are correct Mr. Turbone, those are the exact one's I'm running.

Try this RV http://subaru.kacsh.com/eficonversion.pdf

Don't lose track of my grill. We will connect sometime.

"The best current photo I can find" Your appearance has changed a bit since you joined the guard. I can't put my finger on it but you look a bit different.

I'm glad the connection was made. It doesn't even sound like there will be any restraining orders.

How cheap? Let's talk.

Would the lifted GL be an EA81 with steel pugs and a rear hatch that is a different color than the rest of the car?

The Honda number crosses over to a Napa number NOS 7012 that is listed as a power steering pump seal. It should be available, good luck.

There you go being logical again.

If you do use an EA82 flywheel be sure to transfer the ignition timing mark locations onto it from the EA81.

FSM is factory service manual. The links you want apply to the EA82 series engine

Leave the harness on the engine. There are also I think three (single wire?) connectors near the throttle body.

Good point Ed, and if the U.S. was as focused on replacement as the European country's the phase out would be much sooner. But even when the next generation's preferred product replaces R134a in mobile refrigeration I don't think the HFC refrigerants will be replaced as rapidly as the CFC's were and R134a is used in a lot of mid temp commercial refrigeration and other uses where the leak rate is generally a lot less than is typical for automotive. And when a phase out of HFC refrigerants happens HCFC's will be already history and from what I recall most of the R12 replacement refrigerants that the EPA approves contain HCFC refrigerant components. I guess that was the point I was attempting to make with my comment on long term availability.

Another advantage R134a has over any other alternatives besides price it that it is available anywhere and will continue to be. If I were traveling and my A/C system appeared to be lazy due to low refrigerant I know I could pick up a 14 or whatever ounce can and top the system off wherever I was. I also look at it that since every vehicle sold in this country in the last 16+ years seems to do fine with with R134a why pay more for something else that complicates things even more? I have done a lot of retrofits and have had real good luck with R134a, although it has been my observation that it doesn't like giving off heat as well as R12 so in some instances adding a fan or worst case go with a larger condenser. I'm in the Pacific NW, possibly there are more issues in other geographic regions but again my experiences have been good.

That is a five speed, The four speed box's are about 10 inches longer.

I pretty much agree with NorthWet with the exception that I would replace the drier. The fact that the system has been opened the desiccant will be saturated with moisture as well as most of the desiccants made prior to the early 90's have a compatibility issue with either the synthetic oils or something in the HFC refrigerant. I don't recall if the desiccant may plug up or disintegrate but any replacement part would be compatible with the new chemicals. Also most of the remaining mineral oil will be in the old drier when it is removed. Add whatever quantity of oil (ester or pag) that the system calls for, replace any o-rings you disturb in the process, do a good evacuation and recharge the refrigerant and you should be good.