crazyman03

I'm super interested in see some pictures of this setup! There are plenty of people around here that are familiar with that engine setup. +1 on the 80's subforum! Welcome! -Justin

I know this is way late (like, a year haha!) but I hate reading unresolved topics for solutions so i'm posting what it was that took care of my issue - After a while, it came time to do brakes and I bought a pad/rotor kit for all 4 corners. That is what ultimately took care of the noise. The piston on the driver front caliper didnt look fully out, however i speculate that it was the caliper making the noise. So thats it!, replacing pads took care of it. I dont think that rotors made that much of a difference. I only replaced mine because i never did in the 5+ years of owning the car and i wanted them done. -Justin

eh, yes and no. they bypass will take just the "nub" of the key so we cut it down and put it in the ribbon - can't just take the key out and use it. As far as hotwiring, the alarm has a crank bypass that you interrupt and reroute to the alarm. I try to make it inconspicuous as not make it obvious. the bypass module that they key goes into has to be activated before it sends the key signal to the keyhole. i have it wired to the "on accessory" wire so that when it cycles to accessory it turns the key bypass module on, then it sends the signal. and turns off when the remote start is disabled. -Justin

Well, fun fact. even though i was unable to find anyting about it having a chip in the key. it did in fact have one. Interestingly enough though, the cheap-o 10$ amazon special where you put a spare key in the enclosure and stuff it under the dash did the trick. -Justin

I'm working with a 2009 Impreza and I'm trying to get the Remote Starter to play nice. To my knowledge, it doesnt seem there is a chip in the key and I'm not able to locate a P/N for a bypass module. Long-story-short, I have all the Ignition wires hooked into the Remote starter and I *am* able to perform the remote start with the key physically in the ignition (but not turned, just slid in). Alternatively, I *am* able to perform the remote start with the key simply touching the barrel. For giggles, i grabbed my wifes key (2009 forester) and tried the same with no joy. So, obviously it would appear that there is a chip in the key, right? So what gives? does anyone know of a P/N for a bypass module? I've tried - -unplugging other harnesses' around the key to see if one of them "forgets" theres a key and prevents the car from starting. therefore concluding a chip theory? -performing the "alarm off" work around with the key+lock+horn. Ideas? -Justin

I pulled it's dipstick (definitely gear oil in this one) it's looking pretty full. Considering I checked it on my inclined driveway.. Back to the drawing board. -Justin

I'm working on a my wife's 2009 Forester. 180k automagic. I've noticed a bit of what i would call gear noise while driving. The easiest i can describe it is the sound of knobby tires on pavement. its not *terribly* loud however it is noticeable. the sound doesnt appear to speed up or slow down depending on speed. Neutral doesn't change its pitch. I also dont have anything special in terms of tires - just all-weathers. I checked the transmission dipstick and it was about half a quart low so i topped it off with the spiffy ATF-HP that is recommended for it. The noise seems to have gotten a little quieter but idk if its just a placebo or not. i feel like this is a silly question but - the ATF covers the front dif, no? -Justin

I had thought about that. It doesn't make a sound when jacked up. As far as location, it sounds like passenger front.

I really dont have a better way at describing this so.. here goes. My wife's '09 forester started a loud burrrrrrr/buzzzzzz sound when backing up. It kind've sounds like the sound you would get when low on power steering fluid except it only happens when in reverse and regardless of actually moving. Yes, I have checked my fluids and am not low on power steering or brake fluid. I ran into this sound once before on a buddy's car that ended up going away when we did a caliper swap on all 4. Any ideas? Braking is fine, pads are fine, fluids are fine. it just does it when in reverse only. Ideas? I'll try and get some audio of it later edit: i just tried to get the sound to record and it didnt do it unless i was moving in reverse so, scratch the whole not moving part. -Justin

When you "get on it" and the engine revs down - it'll rattle. I've had rod knock before on another vehicle, it sounds the same. GD, I didnt think of going that route - I'll defiantly keep that in mind. Rock auto has a whole longblock for 2600 after core, maybe worth going that route and getting the whole thing reman'd? -Justin

When you say this, do you mean you did a passthru under the seat? or that you ran your speaker wires for your new amp to behind the head unit? If you have a factory amp for your car - the speakers will all go to the amp, not the deck. If you ran your after market amp wires to behind your deck (to the would-be speaker wires) you werent actually driving your speakers by your amp. What you'll want to do is check the wire diagram. If you have a factory amp, Likely you will have 4 sets of wires (Front L/R and Rear L/R) from the deck to the amp, then (from the amp) you will have another 4 sets of wires (Front L/R and Rear L/R) that are outputting from the amp to the actual speakers themselves. Those wires (on the harness side, NOT the amp side) that are going to the speakers are going to be where you actually want to attach your amp wires to. The 4 sets fo wires that are going from the Deck TO the amp - you will want to use those leads (harness side) FROM the deck to drive your amp - Hi-input - NOT RCA. If you do want to do RCA you will want to get a line converter to go from High Input to Low input. otherwise you will clip. -Justin

Yeah, I figure its HG - I'm just not looking forward to doing it. I think i have a bit of rod-knock chatter so i'm debating just pulling it and doing an overhaul. She needs timing done so with all of the above i might as well make a party out of it. @ShawnW, you wanna take a "crack" at my motor? lol I've heard bad things about splitting the block and not mating it right again. -Justin

Common guys, Lets not get on someone because they didnt make make a purchase you would have. This is USMB - There are tons of things we do on here that some other "sane" person wouldnt dare do, yet here we are with our jacked up Subaru's. He made his purchase based on what he thought was right for his budget at the time. I rock 200$ lowering coilovers on my VW that everyone told me (after the fact) were a horrible purchase and I absolutely LOVE them -Justin

lol not 10 quarts - no. Since it has leaked a bit i topped it with maybe an extra half quart or so. Rookie, sure but since it leaks a bit i wanted a bit more time before i had to top it off. It doesnt leak a whole lot but never had a problem topping it off a bit like that -Justin

Understood. I'll try the Pressure switch first then the solenoid if needed. So you think that the fact that i have a bit too much oil in there is likely unrelated? -Justin

I do have an oil leak but its the HG/Valve covers. the AVLS do you mean the pressure switch that the code refers? Looks like theres one by the oil spout and a matching one on the Passenger Side? Edit: The sensor that the P0026 refers to is "Intake Valve Control Solenoid". GD, i see that part is all of 2 bucks - i'll def. look into replacing it alongside. Any thoughts on the Valve control solenoid? -Justin

So I just did the oil on my wife's Forester over the last weekend and after doing it it started sputtering/shuttering when you let off the gas. Never got a code just acted weird. Welp, it finally threw a code - P0026. It was running fine up until the oil change. What are the odds that it the Pressure switch that the code refers to? I also noticed that i topped it off a bit too much on the oil - I was thinking maybe draining a bit out? Thoughts? 2009 Forester 200k. -Justin

*waves* Welcome to the forum, btw. -Justin

I typically run new wire so that If i decide to pull everything and go back to stock I'm not ripping the dash apart to make the radio work again with the stock unit Theres also the argument of the wire in the car being 12-14GA. But usually it boils down to ^ -Justin

Ah. Typically I dont have issues running wire down the side. You can pull the side down a bit if you feel its tight - should have enough room. Easiest route would be to run both your fronts forward and cut the right channel across the dashboard. I'd do the rears a similar way except I'd run across either under the bottom of the back seat or behind the hinge of the back of the seat. -Justin

Amp installs are fairly simple. For the Positive (I also run RCAs this side) run I typically run down the Driver side just inside the lip under the pop panel/carpet.There typically is a rubber grommet pass through on the firewall behind/under the steering column. for the NEG, pull one of the bolts for either the seat or seatbelts and lock it down there. (clean up any paint if applicable) -Justin

I ran 1" (at least i think it was) conduit with UBolts. Sounds rigged, but they are stronger than the regular clamps. -Justin

From what I'm reading the dash speakers are simple to get out - pry up on the grille and use a small handled philips screwdriver to remove. https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx has a good picture breakdown on what it all looks like one thing to keep in mind is the speaker rating vs deck output. That kenwood deck says its rated at 22w RMS (optimal area) and 50w peak (the ballpark where it will clip), you might find yourself adding that amp in a bit sooner than you think. (Granted, I just did a quick "Alpine Type R 6 1/2" " search) Alpine speakers tend to want power to really sound good. They RMS at around 100w per speaker - I'm sure they'll sound ok with the deck power but if you intend to really open them up (and not clip your deck), you'll want an amp. othwerwise you'll find yourself 1/2 way up the volume and it'll sound bad. I'm going through this in my DD; I put a set of Skar 6.5" components on a alpine deck and it clips bad. (and they're 80wRMS) All that said - On my wife's '09, simply replacing the deck really made the stock speakers sound loads better. -Justin

I'm still at a loss for this one. I pulled the center of the dash apart and verified that there is tension for both the blend knob and the mix knob. Both go to their appropriate doors - blend on passenger side, and mix on the driver. They move the door unobstructed, freely and all the way to the end of its actuation. I also verified that the center ducting is not shared. they divert off to their corresponding sides (L/R). Since the car is not dual zone, it would seem silly to have 2 heat/blend doors for each side when it doesnt call for it? -Justin

This is puzzling me. My wife's 2009 Forester had warm air blowing out when the AC is "on". No big deal, i grab a can of recharge and go to it. When recharged though the air on the passenger side of the car is noticeably colder - the clutch is on and it would seem it is working. The odd part is that from the left vent (under the radio) to the driver side it is the complete opposite. Now, I would have figured that the mixer/diverter door might be stuck but to half of the vents? Are there 2 condensers on this thing? What strikes me as really odd is that the vents under the radio usually are supplied by 1 duct that splits to the two? -Justin