crazyman03

I got a P0500-speed sensor. Which apparently looks like a "i don't know what the heck is wrong with me" code, with all the suggested fixes they listed (@checkers) One "fix" was to look at the speedo cable. I had managed to screw up the cable when i was putting the cluster back in the dash. the little nub that goes inside the back of the speedo is gone. I thought maybe it was crimped and got pulled back inside the cable shielding? My fuel gauge is broke. I think when i attempted to tighten the screws on the back of the cluster, the "-" didn't want to tighten, and the coil wire likely broke off the back of the nut inside the housing. I took it apart and looked at it and saw it broken... I tried soldering it back in.. still no dice. With the fuel gauge out, i was still going to be able to drive and just note my milage.. cant now with no speedo . I'll look at it when i get back from my dr appt today. -Justin

Well, there is a cable... I got all greasy from it. Makes sense about there being another sensor inside the cluster to the ecu. When it wasn't working, the code started appearing. Somehow, the cable inside the shielding; either I broke off the spinning nub on the end of it, or I pulled the slack and the cable fell inside the shield... I'll have to see tomorrow after my dr appt. I'm thinking what happened with the fuel gauge is I was screwing one of the terminals in and I spun the coil off the little nut inside it. I took it out and it appeared that way at least. I attempted to solder it back on - no dice. I at least have to get the speedo working so I can figure fuel out/mileage by the trip meter. -Justin

Ok, so i figured out what the code is: P0500 - Speed Sensor. I think i know what happened with the fuel gauge, the "-" screw that kept spinning, I'm sure that i just spun the coil wire right off it. I attempted to solder it back on there.. still no-dice. I managed to screw up the spedo cable too. I'm thinking the p0500 error is related to it, if there is a sensor on the spedo cable on the tranny? no load on the cable it thinks something is wrong? -Justin

Well, I gave him a call.. I guess its going to be an interesting piece to find. I tried looking at the JY by my work and havent found much as far as a hatchback goes. eeh, might just have the shower curtain for a while. On that note though, I'm having a delema. So, I had a CEL about fuel trim and replaced the MAP sensor (pocket part) from the JY. no codes and great ride for a week until today. I've been having a bit of an issue on my fuel gauge where it would dip low while i'm stopped. someone told me to take the cluster off and tighten the 3 screws for the gauge and it should work again. I tried - now it says I have a full tank, (I've already driven 150 miles, shouldnt be that much more in fuel) well, along side that, I went to get some food, now my CEL is back (dont know the code yet) and my "AT Temp" light flashed a bit. Ideas? wtheck did i do? -Justin

Well, CRAP! I wasnt too worried about the fuel gauge, i could've put another gauge in and been good. But now, I spoke too soon. I went a week with the new Baro sensor just fine and now suddenly i have a CEL. Also, my AT Temp light was flashing a minute ago. Ideas? what the heck did I do?!? -Justin

yea, they are talking about it at the moment... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133559 -Justin

I opened the back up and found the screws and tightened. But now I have a problem. It says my tank is full when it should be at least 1/2 full - I've already driven 150 miles on the tank. I didnt over tighten them, the "-" one didnt really want to be tight but its tight enough i guess. Ideas? -Justin

Hey there Tom, how's that boy of yours doing? -Justin

+1 on the float. I had that issue too. That, and no fluid *doh*! -Justin

Ah hah! I wasnt (too far) off.. yea, try the drive shaft idea.. might give some light.. -Justin

Hmm.. I'll try it too if the code comes back. I swiped both sensors from the JY in case. I couldnt find a part number on the one currently in my car to compare to the one found in the JY. I'd imagine if the bar sensor matches that the pressure switch would too? -- they at least look the similar. The one from the JY has a big cap that is on the bottom, where as mine has a hose going somewhere.. -Justin

Hmm, I thought it was Engine -> flywheel -> torque converter -> transmission.. oh well least i was close.. its been a while since i've been in the neighborhood. -Justin

The fuse is located on the passenger side "top" of engine bay closest to the weather stripping/windshield (under the hood) It has a cap that says "FWD" on it. What it will do is keep the transmission/transfer-case from engaging the rear tires. Now, you can try this.. but I don't believe it will help you any simply because if it is anything related to the drive shaft, It will still make the sound simply because the drive shaft will continue to spin because the rear tires are turning= drive shaft spinning. But try it, see if it doesn't eliminate the problem. iirc, a Flex plate is only on Manual transmissions? Automatics dont have this.. You might try taking the drive shaft off and see if it doesn't help the problem too. if it continues, it would likely be something maybe in the rear diff. area. if it does stop the problem, either have your drive shaft re-balanced, or something is going on with your tranny.. -Justin

Interesting. would it hurt if i replaced it too? given if my CEL comes back? -Justin

Ok, so I found a car in the JY that had a similar setup.. 2.2 engine, i think it was a '98ish Lego. I stole the 2 sensors that were on the strut tower on the car and matched the p/n with the one currently on my car. What are the two sensors? i know the left one is the MAP/Barometric sensor.. what is the one on the right? -Justin

I did try re-seating the connections and looked for corrosion, none really found. I work (quite literally) next door to Colorado Auto (PnP type place). Maybe I'll peek in and see what i can find. -Justin

true. I was always told not to do it anyway, so i always say to not do it. He did say it was a '99. I've seen the FWD fuse (I think) on a '00 Lego GT. not a '10 -Justin

I looked at the hoses to/from the map sensor.. They all look in good shape. Might just need to get a new map/barometric sensor. Checkers wants 200 bucks for it though, does that sound right? -Justin

do you have a factory auto lock/unlock switch? does it work as it should? depending on who installed the alarm and the model, there might be a fuse between the unlock relay (either IN or external of the python alarm) and the unlock (action) wire. check the wire harness of the alarm for breaks, also check fuses. IF there is a relay, you might check it too if you can. -Justin

I would recommend doing the drive-shaft check first - it is most likley a U-jont/bearing issue, I had the same issue. Doing the FWD fuse check won't eliminate any banging/vibration issue because it wont stop the shaft from free-spinning. (it'll spin with any 4wd/AWD car because the rear diff is causing it to spin) Also, for the record, because its appealing to have FWD on all the time to save gas, DONT leave the "FWD" fuse in. It will screw up a lot more than you want. -Justin

Good to know! I'll have to try and see. Thanks! -Justin

Edit: on my '95 impreza 2.2 So I was doing some research one this error and I know to check -- intake, exhaust, and fuel. I'm pretty sure the exhaust and the intake are in good shape, but I had a question about the fuel system. For this code, I'm worried about the fuel pressure right? Main reason I'm asking is because yesterday I was driving home from work at the horse track and my fuel gauge showed empty. I Looked at my trip gauge and figured I have at least 100 or so miles before I'm actually empty. Drove a bit down the road and the gauge slowly crept back up to the 1/4 ish mark where it should be. For that -- I figured I had a bad sending unit for the gauge, no big deal. When I stopped to get my daughter, I got the CEL when I started the car. (thought I let off the key too early?) Could these two things be related? Maybe I'm not getting enough power to the fuel pump and it's causing the sending unit to fail?? I went to checkers and looked the code up on odb2, I cleared the code, hopefully it doesn't come back... Thoughts? -Justin

the ice and water sheild is also handy for waterproofing for 4wheeling. some early pictures of the wagon i did - (not to steal the thread, some inspiration ) After adding some window tint, I could barely hear the shop radio, just outside the car blaring.. nice and quiet! edit: I had 2 15" JL's running 1500w each sub.. noooo rattle ;-), though was hard to keep the hatch closed.. kept popping the latch :-/ -Justin

You could run both white and black to the posi on the battery, then at the amp, run a new coard from the ground of the amp to a near by chassis bolt. This will double your wire thickness. You won't need to run another wire from the battery, because the entire chassis of the car is negative. Make sense? -Justin

Wow, missed a page there.. To add, if you want a cheap method to sound deadening, you can use spray can insulation. Is very light weight and stops all rattles. I did a monster install on a 89(ish) gl15. I used "grace ice and water shield" its similar to dynamat or hush mat, but much cheaper. I did 3 layers on the entire cab of the wagon on 300 bucks worth of mat, roof floors and doors. But yea, as for weight, you won't notice it. I didnt start noticing until I had 500 lbs of speaker box in the back thouh, i did have a 5-speed ea82 lol -Justin