crazyman03

I have installed Viper alarm/remote starters on various cars with immobilizers in them. To get around them you have to buy a bypass kit like XpressKit. To be honest with my wifes' car i don't want to go through all that hassle of installing an after market when the keyfob/alarm seems to be working pretty good. (I just want to add a remote start feature and this one at least promises integration as opposed to bypassing and splicing) Have you had any troubles with the OEM one? Do you recall how much it was for the Dealership to program it? I only have 1 key at this time and wouldnt be turned off to making 1 trip out of it - programming the kit and getting another key. -Justin

Has anyone ever installed the "OEM" Remote starters? Is there any benefit to installing the OE option as opposed to installing an after market deal. The car is a '09 Fozzy 2.5 Auto. The one I have been looking at is this: https://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-forester-remote-engine-start-2009-2010-p-2337.html Install guide seems simple enough - https://subaruonlineparts.com/pdf/H001SSC100.pdf -Jusitn

Daylight savings - who's bright Idea was that!? LOL My Jackstands have a deep notch on them so you /could/ put them at the pinch points and lift from the Dif., if yours did too -Justin

Theres a little notch impression stamped in the metal - thats the indicator of where to lift from. That said - that lip IS where you lift from. I had picked up one of these - that allows you to use a hydraulic jack -Justin

I just did my wife's Headlights with the Maguires Pictured below, the top two show them just polished (1k then 3k sand then polish) the bottom shows with the "sealant" Its not terribly difficult to do, really. Just wet sand <---> with each sand pad/disk evenly. then wash and dry. then apply the polish. The drill bit is for the polishing part - same method. slow and steady then wipe, clean and dry. The sealant (make sure you have gloves on!) just wipes on evenly by wiping across the lens. Took maybe 10 min each light? edit: they give you more than plenty that you can keep the kit for other vehicles. I plan on doing her tail lights as well as the taillights on my car, too. edit: Had to finish it off with a full wash "Abby" Cleans up so nicely! -Justin

stupid > tag at the end of the image LOL! Thanks! -Justin

No? Are you Mobile or on a computer? are you sure you are pressing the right button? -Justin

JESZEK! long time no see! Glad to see you are doing well. Its always good to think about you and your family and disconnect for a while. -Justin

For lens cleaning I've used Meguiar's Headlight restore. (amazon - https://amzn.to/2Eq46vz) i actually *just* ordered that one to do my wifes' forester. costs' about 30 bucks at Checkers/orilley's but TOTALLY worth it. I've even gone as far as using it on taillight lens' and they look brand stinking new. (pics below) As far as light upgrades, you'll get flak one way or the other about doing LED/HID swaps. I do run HID's myself but they are *technically* intended for Projection lenses. Keep in mind you'll find 30w or 50w swap ins. 30's are BRIGHT enough if you swap them for hallogen - you dont need to spring for the 50+watts pics of the lens' cleaned up. .. -Justin

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Hacking wasnt the issue. Keeping such a large knowledgebase takes funding and the Primary Source was in an accident a bit ago. We have since found another host (another member) that runs his own host so hopefully, as far as hosting is concerned, it isnt going to be a problem. -Justin

I dont usually do this but.... Seriously - Looking good! -Justin

A thought occurred to me. Have you replaced the starter, or the alternator recently? How are your connections? I had a similar problem on my truck a few years back and the power wire to the starter was grounding out which would do the same as you described -justin

An update: From what I've read this is a common thing with this Fozzy. I tried driving around in just "sport" mode instead of hand shifting and it seems to be better - as long as you are gunning it and really want to move through the gears. The downside is if you're just leaving a light it holds the gears a bit longer and it sounds like you're trying to race the fellow next to you. That, and fuel economy goes out the window. All I'm wanting is when it goes through the motions it doesnt drop 80% (bit of an exaggeration , but sure the heck feels like) torque on the entry of the next gear. Meh. It seems, it is what it is. :-/ -Justin

So, did you get it out? -Justin

one thought, that (i dont think) i didnt see mentioned - Do you lose the presets regardless of if you start the car or not? Say for example, if you turn the key to "on" fiddle with the radio then turn the key "off" sit for a second then back on? I'm skeptical on blaming the battery, or anything under the hood for that matter, for the problem. I'd blame the stereo for this problem. You could ultimately put a DMM on the ATT wire of the stereo and see if it dipps when you start the car. If this wire loses power you lose presets. I found a couple wire diagrams but there were a couple variations for that year. Always probe and test. http://videojourneysrentals.com/subaru-stereo-wiring-diagram/ They do make aftermarket stereo options for 2007 outback/legy type dash. You end up replacing the entire center with an aftermarket climate control system and there is some transplanting involved. edit: i came across this video which kind'a shows you wahts involved https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjbIRPShU6U -Justin

+1 on nothing else required. if you do any more than a 4" lift, then yeah, you should think about consequences of other items. I didnt have much of an issue at all. -Justin

-Justin

i grabbed some Outback struts for my '95 Impy. I believe they came out of a late 90's early 00's JunkYardOutback. I had replaced my stock Impreza struts with a 3" spacer with the struts out of the outback - they matched what i was getting with the spacers + like 2". I was quite pleased -Justin

I was afraid of that. Anyone know of an alternate Tranny, besides a 5MT ? -Justin

I have one for everyone. My wife has a '09 Forester 4sp automagic 130k on the clock. It shifts.... weird. I'm pretty sure it's always done it since we've owned it (bought it around 80k) 1st gear is strong. Torque'y, but when it hits 2nd it, for lack of a better way of saying it - lulllls. power cuts way down and it takes forever to get back up to 3k before it starts pulling again. Same for 3rd and 4th. It acts this same way when you switch over to manual shift. God forbid you have any load. We went up the mountains last weekend and it had troubles going up passes (in the mountains) and being in 4th. I have to hand shift back to 3rd and sometimes 2nd. I wouldnt say it was *loaded* per-se. maybe an extra 3-400 lbs? -Justin

Ah, I miss-read the object that fell in. Well, you can either go the snake camera idea with the little fingers suggestion or, yeah go ahead and pull the intake off. It is pretty strait forward. 2 bolts on each pipe to each cylinders. pull off ans set aside hoses/wires you find. Just try not to drop anything else in there. LOL! If you dont find it in there then its down in one of the head ports but you should be able to shine a flashlight down there to see if its pre-valve. if not, then you are in for a reeeeal treat -Justin

Unfortunately, removing the intake isnt going to be a "quick" way and considering the tube is relatively solid, its possible it didnt make it all the way down to the valves. Silly question though. You said Intake sensor, do you mean MAF? isnt that down by the air filter? My assumption is you pulled the airflow hose off the throttle body and sprayed in there openly? So, first things first you need to see how far it went down there. Like i said, the tube is relatively solid so its likely that it got stuck on the way down. How "mechanically inclined" are you? It is relatively strait-forward. Just make sure you remember how you pulled everything off to put it back on. If you dont want to pull it apart, you could get one of those snake cameras to see which cylinder it went towards or went down into the heads. -Justin

Theres been a few people who have done this on older 4wd's. Either way on the fronts, you'll need something to the wheels otherwise they'll fall off. . If there's no drive to the front axles, it really doesnt matter either way. They'll just spin with the wheels. That said, the wheels will have the drag of spinning the axles. A lot of people cut off the axle at the first knuckle (wheel side), so that they can mount the hub and not spin the whole axle. -Justin