crazyman03

I knew it was the engine/drive train that jumped it but i thought it was the alternator that would kick the first spark.. well it would if there was no battery.. -Justin

Starters do that sometimes. They can act like crap and then all of a sudden work great for a while. I had one that for the longest time i had to tap it with a hammer (or a pop bottle worked great too) to get it to work and then it all of a sudden worked for like a month strait! Push starting it works because it uses the alternator to start the car not the starter; so that's why that worked and nothing else. Everything else worked in the car because the battery (like it should) was fine. Just either replace the starter, or, if you are feeling froggy, try and diagnose what the exact problem with it is and replace that problem child. -Justin

I thought it was pretty nifty! -Justin

Well, a D/R 5sp is a very fun little tidbit to have. Either way you will need to lift before you can fit 14" 25's under the fenders I would think. You can get away for a little bit not having a D/R. -Justin

I got started building my roof rack: -Justin

Very nice restoration! -Justin

+1 nope. it will defiantly sound like crap but yea.. you can do it. -Justin

wow, that's pretty sad. Not you and the situation, but sad that it happened at that time. I hate it when you think the car is great, go to play with it and it breaks down at possibly the highest peak of fun! I wonder what caused the bolts to get lose if they were tight before. Personally I like the regular gasket for this application, I've never had a problem with them before, but like GD said the liquid gasket works good too. Defiantly want to use some of that loctite. -Justin

I could tell you what the stock pipe sounds AND Feels like when it doesnt go through the Cat! Like CRAP! occasionally it does sound pretty mean but being that soon on the pipe, it sounds like one of the rice burners with a tighter rubberband! yea, not to mention the lack of power, sound and gas milage! -Justin

I broke my exhaust today! I bottomed out a bit over a snow pile and the coupling before the cat came apart. now i sound all PpppPpPpPpPPPPPPPPPPp everywhere. On tuesday i will probably re-weld it. . -Justin

Wow. Just. wow. -Justin

Like i said least the good ones. . J/k. Kicker's are alright.. You can always lower the box a bit. looks decent though. -Justin

don't think 2 12's would fit there.. least depth wise. that and usually 12"'s crave a lot more volume.. least the good ones . you might be able to cut into the body a bit and fab a new box. I've seen people do it on other cars.. Personally i don't like subs firing up from that position. it takes away from the cargo area and renders it pretty much useless.. even with a grille. IMHO of coarse! -Justin

So my other car is a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It's a pretty nice ride - 4.7 liter V8, lots of bells and whistles that i probably will never use. Recently, its been doing some pretty weird things. Console screen in the center headliner (the mini screen) has been reporting some interesting errors. For example: "Memory seat diabled" "vehicle not in park" etc. These errors I'm not too concerned about, kind've annoying, but I can deal. My actual question is - occasionally i get an Injector Error. I plug in the ODBII code reader in and it reads Injectors 2,4,8 as bad/faulty. I clear the error, its fine. The engine runs great until i get a code error, then it runs like crap. I Plug the reader in, clear the code, engine runs great again. Now, naturally i would just replace the injectors and get on with my life but 3 Injectors on the same side going out at the same time? The car does not backfire at all, and it runs like crap but not like 3 injectors on the same side going out crap. does that make sense? I've tried fuel additive, Injector cleaner, lots of stuff to try and clean the system out. the error has gone out by itself. but comes back. Mostly when I'm cruising 60-63mph. Another question - The Jeep has 195k on the engine. It didn't start doing this funky errors untill around 192-194k mark. Could it be that i need to replace the timing chain? it could be spraying the fuel at the wrong time and the computer thinks its faulty? i hope this makes sense.. i was trying to type this as it was rattling out my mouth -Justin

nice score! i had blizzaks before.. they were expensive too. nice score! -Justin

Now I don't live in Cali so don't quote me on this but I wouldn't see why it would matter too much on the smog test. just increases air flow to the intake. iirc cold air is compressible which allows for more air to the cylinders. the car would compensate and add more fuel. it would give you more power. i don't think it would matter too much. but like i said, don't quote me on it. -Justin

indeed. how do the eclipse subs sound in the back? did you expand the cargo box for additional box volume? or was there enough? -Justin

Layer up! when i did mine it was around 20 out. T-shirt, Sweater, hoodie, and coat. 'coarse, when you get really working you will sweat off layers too! -Justin

edit, i wanted to add that i still have a lot of pad left on the brake. like 1/4 inch! -Justin

so i did my bearings yesterday on the passenger front because they sounded like they were rubbing/grinding. It was an easy replacement, cleaned the assembly, packed the bearings blah blah the way its supposed to be done. My question is - before I did the replacement, the wheel sounded like it was rubbing wrong on the brakes (some clicking sounds and pulling to the passenger side while applying the brake) I was thinking that replacing the bearings would fix this problem. did i replace the wrong thing? Everything is strait, tight and clean. Plenty of grease but not too much packed in there.. am I missing something? -Justin

+1 that. My brother was having the same issue. hardly any heat at all, replaced the thermostat and works! -Justin

when you tested it, did you leave it in the car or did you take it out? if you left it in the car, did they rev the engine during the test? if not then yes it would've given a bad test seeing as most of the real *umph* comes past the normal idle rpm. if you took it out and had them test it on the bench, what RPM did they test it at? same as above. the voltage at idle should be at 12v sitting around 1k RPM even with a bad alternator - least i had that issue. -Justin

Oh, I have My CB and Sirius Satellite antenna's on the driver door. that what you mean? -Justin

I went ahead and replaced the entire unit. quoted from napa i found one for 40 bucks. not too bad i don't think. I went ahead and replaced that hose you are probably talking about... figured shoot, it took that much of a hassle to get to the pump itself i should probably replace anything that could *possibly* go out! that and the hose looked like it was swelling a bit too. I inspected the timing belts while i was in the neighborhood.. the guy i bought the 'roo from mentioned they were replaced around the 195k mark. They defiantly don't look like they've been sitting in there for 262k that's for sure. The water pump for that matter defiantly did not look like its been touched.. ever! so I felt good about going ahead and replacing it. from what i saw it looked like it was leaking from weep-hole like gd mentioned. hopefully i put it all together the right way! I'm driving her to work tomorrow! -Justin

the fender is actually tore up on the driver side. when i got it the whole headlight and marker light were banged up pretty good. replace the lights.. cut the fender up a bit to straighten it out and good as new. I wanted to go with a dual battery setup but as of late i haven't had the funds to do so. so that i can do anything i need to with adequate power, i'll probably get the upgraded alternator first though. anyway, OH! what have i done with my subie lately? I changed the water pump (went with a new one after all) and tomorrow hopefully i'm doing the passenger side wheel bearings. -Justin