crazyman03

ZING! I do the same! Although shifting gears with a Taco bell cup between the legs can be messy at times. If it doesnt fit between the shifter and ebrake, I put it between my bag and the back of the passenger seat. I believe McBrat has bike cup holders screwed on his doors.. -Justin

Check your hoses. That would be the first thing I'd do. Hoses that are 18 years old don't exactly hold up too well.. then check the couplings. make sure they aren't leaking from where they meet the engine or radiator. -Justin

The Jerry riggin' that i did involved simply bolting the actuator in the place where the "sending unit" was. it was the same size and the holes mounted right up. as for the locking bars, i used the one that was already there, and crimped it togather with the one i removed from the tail gate. I imagine you've already figured this all out. I dont really surf much on my days off.. -Justin

oh, btw you can find installation manuals for free on the12volt.com you just need to register.

The Alarm was actually pretty strait forward. I used the wiring schematic at the12volt.com (here) I couldn't find GL or Loyale exactly but Justy worked. (for my GL) Keep in mind using it as a guideline not a fact. As far as the Relays went. i didn't separate the driver door from the others BUT you can if you really wanted to.. you will need to use the Blue wire located on the H1 Harness Pin 7 (main harness) if you have a different model see the "second unlock output" wire Relays are pretty easy to work with when you figure out how they work and what you need to supply. howto: here The way the locks work is when one position is Positive (+) the other is thrown Negitive (-) so, when Unlocked: the Unlock Wire will be Positive, and the Lock wire will be Negitive. And Locked: Locked wire will be Positive, the Unlocked wire will be Negitive. You cant just put power to one side or the other (i tried that the locks either dont flip completely, or freak out) You have to Switch the Opposite side. The way I did it is this: Locked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Blue (+) Lock Wire from alarm, Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while Locked Wire (all doors). UnLocked Mode - Relay 1: Pin 85-Green(+) UNLock Wire from alarm Pin: 86-GROUND, Pin: 87A-GROUND, Pin: 87-Positive 12 Volt, Pin: 30 Positive while UNLocked Wire (since you want the driver door isolated, this will be on the actuator). since you want to have the other 3 doors (or 4 if you include the hatch) only unlock with the 2nd pulse of the unlock you will need to make the same UNLock relay for the blue 2nd unlock wire from the alarm. (same pinouts, just put the 2nd unlock wire in the stead of the Green wire) your best bet will to be NOT installing the relays in the driver door. the window takes up a lot of room inside the door, and water likes to hide out in there. there is a little 4-pin wire connector at the driver kick panel. that goes to the door. you can remove and put the relays between it. (white, black, red, red i beleive probe to be sure) The door Actuator Sending unit (dont know what its really called, thats what i'm calling it) uses the same size wire connector but NOT THE SAME Pinout! you will need to reverse a couple wires, i cant remember what it is though, compare to a different door. Hope this is helpfull, I kinda went a little overboard. This could probably make its way to the repair forum -Justin

I like it too. now all you need is a fresh paint job it'll look cherry!

I get about 32-40MPG. Depending on how I drive. I baby it a lot though Shifting 3000-3500 RPM. 5-SP FWD/Dual Range 4WD SPFI '88 GL Wagon

OH! Snap. thats a nice looking bug! -Justin

Ya know i did try a wire from that (probed, and flicked the switch on/off). Granted, i didnt take apart the whole steering column. Might try that. I'd prefer the blinkers though simply because it looks cleaner. (the license plate lights and dash lights lighting up seem, well, notsogood) Thanks for the input though. Aside from the horn and possibly the parking lights. Next project: Wheel bearings!! I got a nasty rubbing sound (not tire rubbing) coming from the pass. side. OH YAY!. Then Converting the front marker lights to flash. Probably not in that order but still.. -Justin

That /IS/ a CLEAN engine bay. and engine too. did you drop it in a ultrasonic cleaning?

The Parking lights do flash. I'm going to re-work the parking light wire to the hazards or something because every wire i probe seems to want to turn the headlights on. (edit: If I turn off the lights when done driving (which i dont), they dont flash with the parking lights, otherwise they do) I've actually never had a problem with remote start *knock on wood*. although whenever i use it i usually am relatively near the car to check on it. (I park my car like 5 feet from my office- i can hear it from my desk), That and you can "kill" the engine from the remote as well. I LOVE the keyless entry. I mainly installed it for the reason of - I have NO key that fits the doors. Leaving it unlocked all the time seems dumb. 'corse at the same time locking it does too seeing as i'm stuck if the keyless doesnt work. so i came to a happy medium, removed the actuator from the liftgate, installed it in the driver door. and leave the gate unlocked. Cant "visually" see if its unlocked. and if you open it, the door intrusion goes off. ..... Now if i could only get the horn to work.. :-\ .. must be a relay or the horn itself.. or both.. meh. next week's project.

Well, I'm going for spending zero dollars on the project. Working with what i have around the garage. On a side note.. The lift gate actuator did bolt up to the drivers door. I had to do some jerry-riggin' to the lock bars. to get them to work with the shortened handle from the rear. But it worked. I wired up the "new" actuator to the current locking system (which was nifty because the sending unit had the wires /right/ there... put together some relays to lock/unlock upon command from the alarm.

Finally finished up installing a "clicker" on the '88 Roo Wagon. Vallet 562t - Remote Start, Keyless entry, Door Intrusion Alarm. Short, Sweet, Simple.

Love the Ammo Boxes for storage.

I actually figured as much and would've probably tried it anyway. Just thought I'd ask since I'm at work and it would've been a while before actually trying it. Didn't know if someone already attempted it or not. thanks! -Justin

Here's an interesting question: Will the actuator in the rear lift gate work to unlock/lock the driver's door for this application? -Justin

its been a couple weeks or so. so i dont know at the moment.

have you tried going to checker auto or autozone? when i needed to do mine i just told them the car and that i needed a ujoint. didnt have an issue or lookup a part number.

you actually can replace the U-joints on the shafts. Kind of a p.i.t.a. to get the old one out and the new one in. works easier if you have a hydraulic press. but it you can do it.. Didn't put the car down though. Since its FWD until you kick the 4WD in, you can still drive it. -Justin

Colorado auto Recycling has a few of them in the 80's range. didnt see anything older than '85 though. off of Sata Fe and Oxford...ish -Justin

oh, ea82 gl wagon '88

Ok, so I finally got my car in the garage to look at the extremely low idle when cold. When i went to test the IAC i noticed that the wire that the solid grey (or maybe black, not the stripped one) was cut and re routed. the wire that is re routed goes to...............................nothing. i know it goes to something, but i cant find the origional wire that it is supposed to be connected to. where does this connect to? anyone know? -justin

to render a guess - the connector that it comes with should be the one to use. It goes with the bulb, should be the right gauge. If i remember correctly, you hook up the HID system to the end where the current bulbs go. and the HID Bulbs replace the stock bulbs. -Justin

there's a couple BrAT's on Craigslist around here. found one the other day. (http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1425672815.html) but 500, I'd nab it too, haggle him, but buy it!

fyi: cracks between valves not necessarily = bad head -Justin