crazyman03

if you get them out in one piece, make sure you put some sort of loctite or something to keep them from rusting again. I wasnt able to put mine back on. Though, I ended up using 1" conduit and Ubolts to recreate them. work pretty solid! -Justin

I dont have an outback, so take this with a grain of salt. On my wife's Forester (2009, 2.5, automagic), we loaded it with a 6x12' trailer and..... it was not happy about it. Did it tow it? Sure - but it squatted. and we got about 12-15mpg driving from florida to denver. I also towed my '98 Golf on the Forester from Atlanta to Jacksonville, fl with just a 2-wheel dolly and got about the same results. That said, if i recall, Outback's have stiffer springs? things to keep in mind is Gross Weight, Vs Net. is it 2500lbs wet/loaded? -Justin

The one i moved it to ;-) -Justin

You should post in the right forum to get answers. Moving.

If i recall correctly, no. Or at least, I made one mount to the top with a hatch that didnt originally have one. I used some universal flex tape (i dont remember what its called) on both sides of the spoiler, bent them around the hatch, and tap screwed them in. Alternatively, you can find some industrial 3m tape and make that stick link to image of what i used -Justin

I think the point of the rambles on this thread are that the ODB port isnt intended for that function. I'll agree on both ends of the topic. Sure - you are only pushing what? 3 amps through it? the 12 or 14ga wire should be more than capable of handling that. And being as there is a device that was designed to do it through those means says that it can be done. Can vs Should are 2 very different topics though. Obviously you can. Heck, why not? The the argument though is should. There is a lot that can go wrong. Hopefully you arent going to gloss over my post but let me explain. First off, fuses work best at the source of power. if there is a problem with the wire (ie, a short) the wire has to arc long enough to pop the fuse. Without going into how fuses actually work, Basically the heat has to be generated long enough to break the line at the weakest link - the fuse. That short could have caused the wire from your ODB port to melt and/or catch fire. (That type of problem, Id want to be the farthest away from my ECU as possible) I know the first thing you are going to say after reading that - "Well, my charger has a fuse in it, that would have popped before anything like that would have happened". Sure it would have. But did it? is it rated to the wire you are pushing power into? Fuses/breakers are designed to be the weakest link. Manufacturers/you choose them to save both the device and the wire. Usually they are rated to be just below the wires max load. I say all this because I have repaired way too many cigarette lighters because people used those nifty "jump boxes". Sure they were designed to be plugged into it - why would they sell it? But again, the argument isnt can you, its *should* you. There is way too much going on under that dashboard. Personally (and especially) if this is something that is a permanent go-to for tending your batteries, I would find a more permanent solution that can go to the battery and yet be solar. Radeon has a neat little charge controller and panel combo that I use. You can make your own permanent solution that you can just plug the panel in wherever you want it to be and do it the way you really should. Thats all, Thats all anyone is really saying here. From one car guy to another car guy that makes things work the way they need it to. We're just trying to help. -Justin

I do tend to want to agree with this. TJ, are you sure its not turbo lag? -Justin

I don't think oil would cause power loss like that. Any lights? What kind of gas are you putting in? Those things need like 91+ octane. -Justin

First - a set of questions. What year and Mileage? Also, How long have you had it? That said, what service do you know that it has had? If unknown, I'd start off with a tuneup. Spark plugs, wires, air filter, etc. The reason I'd start with that is what you described can be a number of things. From spark all the way to timing. If the car has over 150k (or over 100k, really) and you don't know much of the last service, Timing really should be done. -Justin

I'm told, that if your ABS light is on, there is a tool stealerships can use to diagnose the ABS system. they would be able to pinpoint what sensor is causing it. Luckily your lights are always on. I'm also told they cant pull a solid code from it if the light isnt on. Give that a shot? -Justin

On other vehicles I've run into a few things being the cause. Brake fluid and faulty ABS/Wheel sensors can cause a similar issue. The ABS light is can likley turn on when there is a problem with the Braking system and vice-versa. The hill assist like can also pop on for the same issue. I'd check brake fluid, brake fluid level sensor, wheel sensors - etc. does the light turn on after she goes through a puddle/pothole/both? Does it occur on one side of the car vs the other? -Justin

Actually to be a little bit more specific. Now that I've driven it a bit this morning It sounds like a flat tire driving over a heavy glass floor. It's not necessarily at low speeds and, or while braking. It's almost like it is a type of internal neutral? If I'm driving down the road and put it in neutral the notice does not appear to be there -Justin

That was my first thought. I've tried that on another car. i'll try on this. a correction. the noise seems to be lesser when in neutral. And only occurs around 1-2k on accelleration and braking.. -Justin

so. I picked up another work car. a '03 saturn Vue FWD 2.2, CVT "auto". for the most part it works ok. I got it for 300 bucks. the previous owner said that his shop quoted him 1,000 to replace a ignition control module. since then, he bought a new car. I found the part on rockauto for 100 bucks for the coil packs and ICM. I offered to install these things to the car for a 6-pack. he declined and then offered the car to me. LOL So, like i said, for the most part it runs great. little of a hesitation on some shifting, but no CEL. One problem I am running into though. I get a real weird Whurring noise from, what i've figured, the transmission? It sounds like a wheel bearing. The only thing thats got me is that it doesnt change loudness or speed when braking, shifting, etc. throw it in Neutral and it is still there. When you brake, like i said, the sound doesnt change - no matter your speed or how hard you're braking, turning, etc. kinda like maybe an OD gear and its spooling down? The noise doesnt change with RPMs either Ideas? the Previous owner said that it has done it since hes owned it. I cant believe it though :-( -Justin

I dont think it was hacked. simply time for the hosting to be paid for -Justin

Yeah, Both will do just fine. I've towed a fullsize bronco with my '09 forester (flat tow) just fine. 6 - 1200 lbs? ppft. not a problem. Being a turbo would actually, in a way, help with the towing. A lot of "big rigs" are turbos. Now that we got that out of the way. I would hate to agree with everyone else about the WRX and dad buying the kid one. This, I would not do. Why? Because I know how *I* was when i had one of those and it will not likley stand the time. Then again, not everyone's kid is the cliche "kid driver". Just my two cents. But yeah, Both will do just fine. -Justin

Winner winner! yes i know this is several days late but wanted to post up my findings. So, yes it was the rear left caliper that was locked up but it wasnt locked up because it was seized. It was locked up because the e-brake lever was locked "closed". I noticed it when i was looking at the cable. It was lose, and the brake was not engaged inside. tapped it with a hammer and voila! released. thanks for everyone's input. I know i over analyze the situation and think the worse. I'm glad i found it before ordering too many parts! -Justin

no, you're right. I just went a different direction in my head with what was bad -Justin

I did grease them before putting them back together, i'll double check.. -Justin

to add, if it was locked up wouldnt there be additional pressure to the other wheels? also, the ABS doesnt pulse when braking -Justin

but 3 calipers all at once? only the driver side rear is grabbing, or do you mean that *it* is the one locked up? -Justin

I figured that about the ABS.Hoped, but figured. :-/ My next step was to take all the tires off and check the calipers and pads. I was thinking Master cylinder and brake booster? then flushing fluid.. -Justin

I know, I know, we arent a saturn forum but i feel the question could be applied here. I have a '94 Saturn SL1, 5sp, FWD with about 265k. (Little back story) until recently, i was having a whurring sound coming from the driver side front. Seeing as parts were cheap, I went ahead and did wheel bearings. Before pressing them out, I thought to take the wheel sensor off the assy, but was unable to without breaking it - Ultimately, i did :-/ With The ABS light being on, I figured OH well, wtheck? So I dont have ABS for a bit. and drove the car for about a week or so before starting to smell something. (i drive anywhere from 60-100 miles a day for work as a field technician). The smell is similar to brakes faint, but still there. Didnt get stronger or less strong the more i drove it. Naturally, I stick my nose to all the wheels (after just driving it about 40 miles) and come up with nothing. I also pop the hood and stick my nose near the bell housing also nill. A friend mentions the possibility of a CAT starting to go out. Fast forward a week. I'm driving to work and lose brakes. I pull the E-brake and the handle nearly comes off.. i've got nill. I end up down shifting to nearly 1st gear and killing the motor to stop. Yay me! After getting out, the Driver side Rear tire is smoking - Theres my brakes :-/. I figure its probably the ABS system being wonky since i have the sensor out and i go ahead and order it, I've since installed it and the light is out. I figure i'm in the clear and drive again for work - I was wrong. Long story short, The brakes dont fully go out until a few miles of driving (i have a bit of petal). When it goes it goes. Let it cool and its good again for a few miles. I pulled the rear tires (havent gotten to the fronts since its snowing again) and there is plenty of pad there, though, the rotor on the D/S is toast. Ideas? I have all 4 new brakes and rotors within the last 5k miles (when i inherited the car). It was driving perfectly fine until i did the bearing.. I dont believe i did anything to the brake system while doing that. It drove very well after the fact for a few days -Justin

I think it is a solid pulley (shown above), I removed the belt and ran it without and didnt hear the noise. When I pulled it, I looked at the belt.. It looked *okay*.. But i imagine it could be a hard spot in it not flexing.. -Justin

Thought I'd rehash this post. I did the rebuild, everything except the front/rear mains and timing chain. (though, why i didnt think to check it is beyond me at this point:-() I was rather forced into the rebuild when my headgasket was starting to spew out the side :-/ I still get a rattle. its pretty consistant with the serpentine belt tensioner rattling. Rev the motor up, the tensioner stops rattling. The tensioner and pulley are practicaly new. I replaced it last summer for the same problem. Now the problem is back. I'm thinking whatever is causing the rattling is chewing through the tensioner. ideas? could it be a warped pulley?? how would you go about checking them? -Justin edit: thought I'd share a picture or two