crazyman03

From what I'm seeing the dash "facade" is the same just a different radio in its place. As far as tearing into it and "tapping" wires I'm not that uncomfortable doing that. I've done my fair share of Remote Starters/Alarms/Keyless Entry setups on a number of cars that wires dont really scare me so long as I know what they are supposed to go to. Usually the biggest difference between a normal stock (or even after market stereo) and a DVD/NAV unit are few. Parking Brake Input, GPS Antenna ETC. I installed a "stock" DVD/NAV unit from a Dodge something or another into a Jeep Liberty (that didnt originally come with the option) and all it needed was the antenna wire ran and that was it. Oddily enough, the Deck reconfigured itself from Dodge to Jeep. Obviously thats Dodge/Jeep, and they co-mingle but I basically wanted to see if there was kind've a "drop-in" option or, if applicable, I could "force" install the nav unit into the car. -Justin

So I got a new '09 forester. Nothing too special it came with the regular FM/CD deck in it. I was wondering if anyone here has or knows of how to swap the regular stock deck for a stock naviation/DVD/Bluetooth deck. I realize there isnt too much of a difference between the two decks. Obviously it has Front L/R, Rear L/R, Power, Illuminate, blah blah blah. My main question is about the differences though between a regular deck and a DVD/Nav deck. I looked up the wire harness kit for the car and there are 2 harnesses. but behind the stereo there was just the regular harness. what all is supposed to be in the second harness? parking? GPS antenna? does anyone know where i can pick up a conversion kit? At the moment, I have a Pyle DVD/Nav deck in there. It works *alright* but really wanted the functionality to be a bit nicer as well as a seamless stock look -Justin

I sold her! :-/ After 4 years or so of owning her, She had a good run. I turned around and sold her for 1300 bucks on CraigsList. Alternatively, I bought. This: "Abby" - 2009 Forester 2.5x (SOHC) 92k on the clock. Super clean. Has a LOT more pep in it step than the impy did. Initially we werent going to buy it since we had a perfectly good car already. I wanted to get my wife into something a little nicer. On monday last week they wanted 15,500 out the door, That Thursday we were out for under 14 after taxes. Probably the nicest car i've ever owned! -Justin

Thats kind've what I thought. I had a V8 Grand Cherokee that I've done Rod bearings on because #8 spun. The noise was more of a rattle and was louder the faster the motor was. This doesn't sound like that. On a side note, i have to do head gasket on it because i'm leaking coolant out of there.. -Justin

I wanted to get some input on some engine "knock" that I'm experiencing. Vehicle: '01 Chevy S10, 2.2, Auto, RWD, 140k. I have what I think is bottom end knock. Strait forward right? Rod bearings. The more I think about it I'm not too sure. The knocking I get is very faint at times. It doesn't speed up or slow down with RPM really at all. At one point a while ago, I had the hood open and the serpentine belt tensioner would rattle to the same pitch. I replaced the tensioner (the pulley was a bit wobbly) and the noise went away I thought. But you can still hear it faintly. The pulley does not rattle like it did anymore. When I do hear it though, It is when you are lazy on the throttle between gears then it goes away. From what I noticed though, It does not do it when you are just in park or Neutral. Also, when in motion (it seems) it does not occur if you throw it in neutral or even kill the engine while in motion. So what does that leave? One thought I had was Torque converter? I do have a code on the dash related to it. (I dont have the code though I just remember it was the torque converter). Is there anything else I should check? I'd hate to pull the motor out and see that the rod bearings are alright. -Justin

well, i feel like an idiot... yea, low coolant. i was arrogant to think it was because i just did the radiator a couple months ago. and the levels were perfect after. anywho, thanks! -Justin

Rather a simple and strait-forward question. I have a '01 Chevy S10 2.2l. For the most part, its stock but I've installed a cold air intake, 2.5" cat-back flowmaster and swapped out the clutch radiator fan with an electric fan. So lately, dear old mother nature decided to get bitterly cold; about 3degrees at the moment. Not a big deal except now the truck wont get warm - At all. Engine temp yesterday after letting it sit idle for 15 min didnt even flinch the needle and the heat blew cold. Not a big deal, I popped the hood and pulled the relay for the electric fan. it got slightly warmer, about 100-150 depending on if i was on the throttle or not. I cut out some cardboard and installed them in front of the radiator to the point that more than half of the radiator is covered. My simple question is this: Is it just the thermostat stuck open? The heat occasionally does come back for a bit and tease me with warmth but then quickly goes away. after driving for a few hours it will stay warmer longer. I realize its probably a no-brainier but funds are low for even a little 5$ thermostat and 3$ gasket. Mostly the problem is the 20$ proprietary coolant the truck wants, tough I'll probably get the universal stuff.... -Justin

well.. the wife put about 30$ in it the other day, when it was "empty".. got a little over 1/2 tank. she got about 185 miles or so... thats about right for that level. just filled it up yesterday and it took about 11.5 gallons. much closer to true empty than before. thanks everyone! -Justin

So I pulled the sending unit out of the D/S tank and cleaned it like I did the other side... seems to be holding the level about where it should be. Usually when you're sitting at 1/4 tank it doesnt stay there long and drops down to Empty. It held there for a while.. will have to see if the tripmeter goes along with the fuel gauge.. thanks! -Justin

OH Snap! thats right! The tank humps over the driveline. I'll check that tonight! -Justin

The usual with the gauge is it always reads far less than actual. The needle will go up to full when you fill the tank - sure. It doesnt hang out there long; as if I'm getting really crappy milage, it drops down pretty quickly. When I pulled it apart yesterday, the gauge read empty. When i pulled the pump out i had about 1/2 tank (liquid was at the metal ring around the middle of the tank). there's 2 floats? where is the 2nd? I only saw just the one on the pump. The contacts on, what i would call, 1/2 to empty were pretty burnt up looking. -Justin

So, a while back I posted up that my '95 Impreza (2.2, auto) was having some fuel level problems. At half tank It would say 1/4th. I tweeked the dash gauge to get better contact, kinda worked but broke. I replaced the gauge entirely - no change. I've been driving around with it for a while now and pretty much got used to checking the trip-meter. Now, my wife drives it. Now the gauge is worse. At "Empty", I fill up and only put 6 or 8 gallons in it. Obviously, its the sending unit. So I pulled the tank apart and thought maybe to clean the unit with some alcohol and an eraser. No change. Simple question being has anyone seen there be something completely unrelated that could cause this? Apparently checkers only sells the whole fuel pump assy, my pump is alright just the sending unit. Should i just break down and buy the whole assy? or hit up a junk yard for the sending unit? -Justin

with enough skill and forethought, any motor can be transplanted into another car. Heck, they pull the EJ22 out of the legacies and put them in to the 'olde BRATs and GL wagons Cant wait to see the BRZ STI In person one of these days -Justin

Checking the codes are relatively easy to do.. There's 2 connectors under the steering wheel that you'll need to locate. A green and a black one IIRC that are probably just connected to nothing at the moment. Howto: http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ -Justin

When you spring for a new battery, look into the biggest you can get that'll fit (usually around the same price). The CCA will be higher so when the cold does decide to suck the life out of your battery, you'll have a bit more to go through before completely dead. That, and it never hurts to have a little more juice under the hood for other accessories. yes and no. Starters take a LOT more juice to crank than the electronics in the car. Most (newerish) cars, actually have a relay that kicks off accessories during start so that the starter has the most amperes available to it. Some starters use anywhere from 100+ amps to actuate the solenoid and spin the motor, doesn't sound like a whole lot but for every second its cranking its drawing that life out of the battery. -Justin

it actually doesnt make any noise, just the vibration at higher speeds (occasionally, sometimes i can go a few miles without any). and in/out motion. Unfortunately the Axle is from checkers. I didn't have enough money to go the route I would've preferred which would've been through Shawn's shop where I got my Passenger side. I dont have the bearing tool to do this or a press either so I'm thinking I'm just going to go to the JY and find the whole assy and swap in.. I was rather hoping someone would've said something that I didnt think of but alas I thought so. -Justin

So I'm pretty sure I have the workings of a wheel bearing going out on my Impreza ('95, ej22 Automatic) I just did a CV Axle on the D/S front about a month or two ago - I'm pretty sure i got the Nut on there tight enough. After a little while though, I'm getting a vibration from the D/S front. I went back and tightened the nut.. It budged but not a whole lot. The tire has some in/out moving now though, I'm convinced thats my vibration. But is it my wheel bearing? I don't have a press to be pulling the bearing out so: one, I gotta try and find a way to get it out of there and back in without one, and Two, I dont want to be going through the trouble to pull it out if thats not even the problem. -Justin

did the D/S CV axle and made a "make-shift" exhaust gasket between the CAT and the CAT-back pipe. Its sealed but it still flutters :-/ -Justin

95 impreza.. ej22 auto

So I've been hearing a fluttering type sound going on that I origionally thought was just a leak. I plugged what leaks I did find, I even got some muffler mud and flat-out sealed the flange from the Cat back. (there are no other flanges beyond that). I still hear the fluttering and Its coming from the catalytic area. the only thing i havent done is pull the shroud around the cat off and visually *look* but was curious if this may sound like a bad cat or not... It kinda seems like there is a lack of power at times. My average mpg is 23 city and about 26-27ish highway. the fluttering kinda gets softer/quieter the hotter of a day it is and when i've been driving a bit. video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrmCJXGl-FE -Justin

Uberoo - That sucks brother! Sorry to see that happen :-/ -Justin

did a bit more tweaking.. maybe this'll work better? -Justin

trying out a make-shift Cold-air box. got my City average MPG from about low 23's to 24-25's MPG :-) eventually, i plan on getting some tubing to bring cold air from the bumper.. but for now.. this works ;-) -Justin

trying out a make-shift Cold-air box. got my City average MPG from about low 23's to 24-25's MPG :-) -Justin

I'm sure its just a "stock" photo of some sort. the one in the car is obviously the right one. now to come up with the cash. I was curious has anyone went that route before? it would be a *true* Cold air intake with the air coming from the bumper. I built a kind of make shift cold air box for my "hot air" intake. It is a bit more responsive on the throttle since the radiator fans aren't blowing heat directly to the air filter. I'm thinking the CAI i linked to last should be pretty productive, especially for the price compared to the Gorilla one - though I like what Gorilla comes up with -Justin